Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] SUCCESS!
| [GMCnet] SUCCESS! [message #268599] |
Wed, 31 December 2014 23:02  |
Len Novak
Messages: 676
Registered: February 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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Our son has successfully moved his coach (76 Eleganza II) from Pahrump NV to
North Las Vegas. It has been sitting for the last 5 years without starting
or moving.
Some issues..
No cabin heat, temp gauge reads halfway
Fuel tanks seem to feed differently
Oil pressure gauge bounces all over the place.
Good size fuel leak when topping off the tanks.
Tires......flat spots....
Some brake issues, he suspects wheel cylinders.
And some others.
I suspect he will post this info on Facebook on the Classic GMC Motorhomes
section.
Cheers,
Len and Pat Novak
1978 GMC Kingsley
The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!
Fallbrook, CA new email: B52Rule@Roadrunner.Com
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375
www.bdub.net/novak/
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Len and Pat Novak
1978 GMC Kingsley
The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!
Las Vegas, NV new email: B52sRule@Gmail.com
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375
www.bdub.net/novak/
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! [message #268643 is a reply to message #268599] |
Thu, 01 January 2015 13:54  |
Terrasmak
Messages: 40
Registered: December 2014
Location: Las Vegas
Karma: 0
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Member |
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90 miles trip and it's at it's new home, now that it's close to home I can really start working on it .
Radiator leak, pass side tank is leaking. Just going to pull it and bring it to a local radiator shop I trust.
Smog, yup I need to smog it so I can get plates. I think it will easily pass.
More brake work, I know I have wheel cylinder sticking and I want to rebuild the master.
Right at the 45 gallon mark it started spilling over at the aux tank.
No heat as my dad mentioned , it did work for a few minutes when idling at a gas station ( probably a huge air bubble and very positive the leak is not helping)
Flat spots, it sat for a long time. I will see if it gets better with some heat and use on the tires. I will probably start swapping them out as I work on it and get it more road worthy
Fuel tank readings , seems to be feeding off aux tank, main tank stays at full, if it is even working.
Wander and wind. It was windy yesterday but I really feels like it has a lot of wander. It really feels like front shocks are blown too, rears look new, fronts will soon become a bilstien.
I have a lot of work ahead of me.
Len Novak, 76 Eleganza II, Las Vegas
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! [message #268644 is a reply to message #268643] |
Thu, 01 January 2015 14:30 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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You might want to rethink the Blistein shocks. Jim K will warranty the
KYB's He has had difficulty dealing with Blistein.
On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 12:54 PM, Len Novak wrote:
> 90 miles trip and it's at it's new home, now that it's close to home I can
> really start working on it .
>
> Radiator leak, pass side tank is leaking. Just going to pull it and bring
> it to a local radiator shop I trust.
>
> Smog, yup I need to smog it so I can get plates. I think it will easily
> pass.
>
> More brake work, I know I have wheel cylinder sticking and I want to
> rebuild the master.
>
> Right at the 45 gallon mark it started spilling over at the aux tank.
>
> No heat as my dad mentioned , it did work for a few minutes when idling at
> a gas station ( probably a huge air bubble and very positive the leak is
> not helping)
>
> Flat spots, it sat for a long time. I will see if it gets better with some
> heat and use on the tires. I will probably start swapping them out as I
> work on it and get it more road worthy
>
> Fuel tank readings , seems to be feeding off aux tank, main tank stays at
> full, if it is even working.
>
> Wander and wind. It was windy yesterday but I really feels like it has a
> lot of wander. It really feels like front shocks are blown too, rears look
> new, fronts will soon become a bilstien.
>
> I have a lot of work ahead of me.
> --
> 76 EleganzaII
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
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Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! [message #268645 is a reply to message #268599] |
Thu, 01 January 2015 14:30 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Welcome to the group.
On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 1:30 PM, Bruce Hart wrote:
> You might want to rethink the Blistein shocks. Jim K will warranty the
> KYB's He has had difficulty dealing with Blistein.
>
> On Thu, Jan 1, 2015 at 12:54 PM, Len Novak wrote:
>
>> 90 miles trip and it's at it's new home, now that it's close to home I
>> can really start working on it .
>>
>> Radiator leak, pass side tank is leaking. Just going to pull it and bring
>> it to a local radiator shop I trust.
>>
>> Smog, yup I need to smog it so I can get plates. I think it will easily
>> pass.
>>
>> More brake work, I know I have wheel cylinder sticking and I want to
>> rebuild the master.
>>
>> Right at the 45 gallon mark it started spilling over at the aux tank.
>>
>> No heat as my dad mentioned , it did work for a few minutes when idling
>> at a gas station ( probably a huge air bubble and very positive the leak is
>> not helping)
>>
>> Flat spots, it sat for a long time. I will see if it gets better with
>> some heat and use on the tires. I will probably start swapping them out as I
>> work on it and get it more road worthy
>>
>> Fuel tank readings , seems to be feeding off aux tank, main tank stays at
>> full, if it is even working.
>>
>> Wander and wind. It was windy yesterday but I really feels like it has a
>> lot of wander. It really feels like front shocks are blown too, rears look
>> new, fronts will soon become a bilstien.
>>
>> I have a lot of work ahead of me.
>> --
>> 76 EleganzaII
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hart
> 1976 Palm Beach
> Milliken, Co
> GMC=Got More Class
>
>
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
_______________________________________________
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Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! [message #268721 is a reply to message #268643] |
Fri, 02 January 2015 16:52 |
George B.
Messages: 213
Registered: February 2012
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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If I remember correctly (bad bet) fuel gauge reading full all the time might indicae a bad ground connection at the sender or a stuck sender. Somewhere online there is a simple procedure to check for the ground issues. Some one can chip in here .
George Butts
Las Vegas Nevada
73 "Custom 26' Q" & 76 23' Birchaven
71 Honda 600 Coupe & 01 Tracker Toads
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! - No Cabin Heat - Look for closed valve [message #268747 is a reply to message #268733] |
Fri, 02 January 2015 22:36 |
Terrasmak
Messages: 40
Registered: December 2014
Location: Las Vegas
Karma: 0
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Member |
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Heater works intermittent , so it's not a valve. Was working for a bit today and the blower motor died. So now it's either heater controls or blower motor, then of course why there is heat from time to time.
I did get the generator to fire off today, and it passed Nevada Smog
Len Novak, 76 Eleganza II, Las Vegas
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! [message #268791 is a reply to message #268643] |
Sat, 03 January 2015 13:03 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Terrasmak wrote on Thu, 01 January 2015 14:5490 miles trip and it's at it's new home, now that it's close to home I can really start working on it .
Radiator leak, pass side tank is leaking. Just going to pull it and bring it to a local radiator shop I trust.
Smog, yup I need to smog it so I can get plates. I think it will easily pass.
More brake work, I know I have wheel cylinder sticking and I want to rebuild the master.
Right at the 45 gallon mark it started spilling over at the aux tank.
No heat as my dad mentioned , it did work for a few minutes when idling at a gas station ( probably a huge air bubble and very positive the leak is not helping)
Flat spots, it sat for a long time. I will see if it gets better with some heat and use on the tires. I will probably start swapping them out as I work on it and get it more road worthy
Fuel tank readings , seems to be feeding off aux tank, main tank stays at full, if it is even working.
Wander and wind. It was windy yesterday but I really feels like it has a lot of wander. It really feels like front shocks are blown too, rears look new, fronts will soon become a bilstien.
I have a lot of work ahead of me.
Len 2.0,
Welcome to the group, family, cult, asylum.....
I have been through my fuel system (more than I care to remember) and have leaned a lot. In a pilot's training manual, it says that the only time you should believe a fuel gage is when it says EMPTY. Unfortunately, GM violated a basic instrument rule. "Failures shall indicate worst case." When the fuel level sender on a GMC goes open (and this happens a lot when they get old), it makes the gage read Full..... There is a company somewhere in California that will repair then for less than the cost of replacement. You will have to do a GMCnet search for that one.
The fuel leak you have is probably from the fill vent hose being rotted out. This is a very common issue, and it is most easily repaired when you have the tanks down to get at the sending units. While you are at it update all the rubber you can find with ethanol tolerant material.
Also, there is a better than even chance that the selector valve is less that fully functional. They can leave you stuck pretty easily. Test it while you have the tanks down.
There are lot of things that can be wrong with the front end and most of them are easily found and corrected. This seems to come it two main groups. Loose parts from a lack of attention or wear, and a steering box that is off its center and so is loose. A search of GMCnet (again) will find long discussion of locating and correcting both problems. Then think about new shocks.
While you are thinking about the front end, go get some grease. Not just any grease, Valvoline Synpower. It is not cheap, but it is less expensive than replacing parts. Also get a good grease gun. I finally (learning experience here) settled on a Lincoln 1133 (also not cheap) because you can hold the coupler on with one hand and work the gun with the other. I had three failures in a row with the Hazard Fright versions. Also remember to grease the bogies a lot. If you grease things too much, you may spend more money on grease. If you grease them too little......
And lastly, you are now a member of a community like few others. I liken it to that of the watermen as that is my world. It is community of friends and help that you should value and be as much a part of as you are able. To this end, I like to welcome new owners much as a new owner or vessel would be welcomed there. So,
May the Good Lord bless this coach and all those that set forth within her.
Welcome Len
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! [message #268823 is a reply to message #268791] |
Sat, 03 January 2015 21:48 |
Terrasmak
Messages: 40
Registered: December 2014
Location: Las Vegas
Karma: 0
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Member |
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Well Matt , sound like I really need to drop the tanks. Then the selector valve, how does that work? My dad and I were having a discussion the other day about it. If I'm correct, it works with the rocker switch on the dash and controls what tank you are feeding from. It makes since that way, it has a hose from each fuel tank and wires running to it.
Front suspension, I will probably just tear it fully apart before long, swap bushings , ball joints etc etc . No hard to do , then from what I know about shocks these fronts are either undervalued or trash. There are speed humps going on the base, rolling slow the front end still crashes down on the bump stops, the rear was perfectly fine. This tells me they are junk, and the sway in the wind during my drive home with it, it felt like it wanted to oscillate, properly dampened shocks would stop that. I could probably get them thrown on a shock dyno if needed to verify.
I'm going to need a grease gun again, I only have a mini right now. More into Amsoil synthetics, but they are all very close.
Thank you for the warm welcome Matt , I'm going to have a blast with this coach and community.
Btw, found a split CV boot too. What fun.
Len Novak, 76 Eleganza II, Las Vegas
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! [message #268825 is a reply to message #268599] |
Sun, 04 January 2015 00:09 |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
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Senior Member |
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If your shocks are KYB or Bilstein, they have a lifetime warranty. Jim K at Applied might be able to help you. Don't throw them out until you check what make they are.
Regarding your intermittent heat, I'd be VERY careful to make sure your system is indeed full. When it starts to get low, you will develop air locks in the system that will allow bad things to happen in the engine. The temp gauge is in air so it reads low and you get no heat. Then the bubble passes and the gauge will read OK and you'll have heat for a while. The bubble works around and your back to the problem, etc.
In our coaches, it takes a while to get the coolant system full because the heater core is higher than the radiator cap. You have to fill the radiator and block and overflow tank and let the engine go through a few heat and cool cycles. Each cycle will pull coolant from the overflow tank. Eventually it will quit taking more coolant which will mean you are full.
I basically lost an engine because of this. I did not understand what was happening and drove with low coolant, blowing a head gasket and letting coolant get in the oil which killed the lubricity of the oil and ate my bearings. An oil test said there was copper in the oil and that means it was done. I rebuilt it before it failed at minimum overhaul cost but if not for the blown head gasket, I'd probably still be running the original engine.
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! - No Cabin Heat - Look for closed valve [message #268830 is a reply to message #268747] |
Sun, 04 January 2015 04:39 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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If you are saying that the blower motor is intermittent then that is one thing. If you are saying that the motor runs and you have no heat on occasion then strongly suspect the coolant control valve that is in the heater hose near heater core. That thing is a common failure item. Since it is vacuum driven, also suspect a vacuum loss especially on engine acceleration. Many of us have eliminated that valve completely and installed a simple manual ball valve in it's place.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! [message #268836 is a reply to message #268823] |
Sun, 04 January 2015 08:05 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Len,
When you drop the tanks, you may want to consider these new, SS, fuel
senders:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330836201902?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
They're similar (mine had 3 lines) to the one I installed last year. They
require a little modification to the pickup, sender arm, and ground tabs,
but those are simple. They come with new locking rings and gaskets. A
good deal, IMHO.
The tank selector valve is a simple two-way solenoid valve which is
activated to Open when the front (Aux) tank is selected. They're prone, in
these days of caustic fuel, to sticking. They can stick in a position
where they allow air into the fuel line, preventing the pump from sucking
liquid. There are similar modern replacements, but I personally prefer to
just install two electric fuel pumps and select one of them with the dash
switch. Redundancy is nice and an electric boost pump will probably become
mandatory for vapor lock attenuation. The additional cost for the second
pump to replace the selector shouldn't be much.
If you've got to do all that work on the front end, you'll probably find it
most economical to just install the 1-Ton. Especially if it turns out, as
is likely, that the knuckles are badly worn.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sat, Jan 3, 2015 at 10:48 PM, Len Novak wrote:
> Well Matt , sound like I really need to drop the tanks. Then the selector
> valve, how does that work? My dad and I were having a discussion the other
> day about it. If I'm correct, it works with the rocker switch on the dash
> and controls what tank you are feeding from. It makes since that way, it has
> a hose from each fuel tank and wires running to it.
>
> Front suspension, I will probably just tear it fully apart before long,
> swap bushings , ball joints etc etc . No hard to do , then from what I know
> about shocks these fronts are either undervalued or trash. There are speed
> humps going on the base, rolling slow the front end still crashes down on
> the bump stops, the rear was perfectly fine. This tells me they are junk,
> and the sway in the wind during my drive home with it, it felt like it
> wanted to oscillate, properly dampened shocks would stop that. I could
> probably get them thrown on a shock dyno if needed to verify.
>
> I'm going to need a grease gun again, I only have a mini right now. More
> into Amsoil synthetics, but they are all very close.
>
> Thank you for the warm welcome Matt , I'm going to have a blast with this
> coach and community.
>
>
> Btw, found a split CV boot too. What fun.
> --
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! - No Cabin Heat - Look for closed valve [message #268840 is a reply to message #268830] |
Sun, 04 January 2015 08:57 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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And if the blower isn't reliable, this should help: The heater blower is
mounted on a plastic housing with a single ground wire from it to the
firewall. When the single screw into the plastic loosens and/or becomes
corroded, the ground becomes intermittent and the motor/blower likewise.
Clean up the ground connection and put a tooth washer and Noalox,
Oxy-Guard, anti-seize or other anti-corrosive conductive compound on it.
If the screw won't hold tightly in the plastic, move to one of the other
positions.
Ken H.
On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 5:39 AM, Ken Burton wrote:
> If you are saying that the blower motor is intermittent then that is one
> thing. If you are saying that the motor runs and you have no heat on
> occasion then strongly suspect the coolant control valve that is in the
> heater hose near heater core. That thing is a common failure item. Since
> it
> is vacuum driven, also suspect a vacuum loss especially on engine
> acceleration. Many of us have eliminated that valve completely and
> installed a
> simple manual ball valve in it's place.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! [message #268863 is a reply to message #268836] |
Sun, 04 January 2015 13:32 |
Len Novak
Messages: 676
Registered: February 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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You probably figured out by now there are two Len Novaks.
Yours truly with the 78 Kingsley in Fallbrook CA and Len Novak (son) with a
76 Eleganza II in North Las Vegas. Lenny had used our coach at times with
his family when they visit us so he somewhat knows the coach. Pat and I
bought the coach sight unseen in Pahrump NV while he was stationed in South
Korea. We took a look at the coach a few weeks later while visiting his
family. It had been sitting for at least five years without moving or
starting. He is a darn good mechanic and has no problems getting his hands
dirty.
As soon as my knee heals sufficiently Pat and I will take a run out there
and give him a hand.
Cheers,
Len and Pat
1978 GMC Kingsley
The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!
Fallbrook, CA new email: B52Rule@Roadrunner.Com
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375
www.bdub.net/novak/
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Ken
Henderson
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2015 6:05 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS!
Len,
When you drop the tanks, you may want to consider these new, SS, fuel
senders:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330836201902?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName
=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
They're similar (mine had 3 lines) to the one I installed last year. They
require a little modification to the pickup, sender arm, and ground tabs,
but those are simple. They come with new locking rings and gaskets. A good
deal, IMHO.
The tank selector valve is a simple two-way solenoid valve which is
activated to Open when the front (Aux) tank is selected. They're prone, in
these days of caustic fuel, to sticking. They can stick in a position where
they allow air into the fuel line, preventing the pump from sucking liquid.
There are similar modern replacements, but I personally prefer to just
install two electric fuel pumps and select one of them with the dash switch.
Redundancy is nice and an electric boost pump will probably become mandatory
for vapor lock attenuation. The additional cost for the second pump to
replace the selector shouldn't be much.
If you've got to do all that work on the front end, you'll probably find it
most economical to just install the 1-Ton. Especially if it turns out, as
is likely, that the knuckles are badly worn.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL, Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sat, Jan 3, 2015 at 10:48 PM, Len Novak wrote:
> Well Matt , sound like I really need to drop the tanks. Then the
> selector valve, how does that work? My dad and I were having a
> discussion the other day about it. If I'm correct, it works with the
> rocker switch on the dash and controls what tank you are feeding from.
> It makes since that way, it has a hose from each fuel tank and wires
running to it.
>
> Front suspension, I will probably just tear it fully apart before
> long, swap bushings , ball joints etc etc . No hard to do , then from
> what I know about shocks these fronts are either undervalued or trash.
> There are speed humps going on the base, rolling slow the front end
> still crashes down on the bump stops, the rear was perfectly fine.
> This tells me they are junk, and the sway in the wind during my drive
> home with it, it felt like it wanted to oscillate, properly dampened
> shocks would stop that. I could probably get them thrown on a shock dyno
if needed to verify.
>
> I'm going to need a grease gun again, I only have a mini right now.
> More into Amsoil synthetics, but they are all very close.
>
> Thank you for the warm welcome Matt , I'm going to have a blast with
> this coach and community.
>
>
> Btw, found a split CV boot too. What fun.
> --
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Len and Pat Novak
1978 GMC Kingsley
The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!
Las Vegas, NV new email: B52sRule@Gmail.com
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375
www.bdub.net/novak/
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! - No Cabin Heat - Look for closed valve [message #268880 is a reply to message #268840] |
Sun, 04 January 2015 16:48 |
Terrasmak
Messages: 40
Registered: December 2014
Location: Las Vegas
Karma: 0
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Member |
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|
Ken Henderson wrote on Sun, 04 January 2015 08:57And if the blower isn't reliable, this should help: The heater blower is
mounted on a plastic housing with a single ground wire from it to the
firewall. When the single screw into the plastic loosens and/or becomes
corroded, the ground becomes intermittent and the motor/blower likewise.
Clean up the ground connection and put a tooth washer and Noalox,
Oxy-Guard, anti-seize or other anti-corrosive conductive compound on it.
If the screw won't hold tightly in the plastic, move to one of the other
positions.
Ken H.
On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 5:39 AM, Ken Burton wrote:
> If you are saying that the blower motor is intermittent then that is one
> thing. If you are saying that the motor runs and you have no heat on
> occasion then strongly suspect the coolant control valve that is in the
> heater hose near heater core. That thing is a common failure item. Since
> it
> is vacuum driven, also suspect a vacuum loss especially on engine
> acceleration. Many of us have eliminated that valve completely and
> installed a
> simple manual ball valve in it's place.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
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Thank you, hopefully that is one of the problems. The fan and heat are intermittent right now.
I wish I could get my spillfree funnel on this thing to make sure I properly bleed the cooling system . I have an idea, I may be able to hook it up to a heater hose, then I can fill and bleed from the highest point. My racecar is also a huge pain for bleeding the cooing system.
Len Novak, 76 Eleganza II, Las Vegas
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! - No Cabin Heat - Look for closed valve [message #268888 is a reply to message #268880] |
Sun, 04 January 2015 18:30 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Len,
Several years ago I eliminated the H20 filling problem on my GMC: Into one
of the heater lines, I installed a brass screw-together hose coupling. To
fill the system, I use a cheap electric drill-driven pump pulling from the
antifreeze jugs. The output of the pump goes to one side of the coupling.
The other side of the coupling fits into the radiator overflow tank (if you
plan the installation right, you don't even need an added hose on that
side). When a solid flow of coolant runs into the overflow tank, reconnect
the coupling. For some reason, I didn't set it up with my ball valve just
above the coupling, so I lose a little antifreeze -- but not much.
Since the pump flushes the entire system, including the heater, there's no
subsequent burping.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 5:48 PM, Len Novak wrote:
> ...
>
> I wish I could get my spillfree funnel on this thing to make sure I
> properly bleed the cooling system . I have an idea, I may be able to hook
> it up to
> a heater hose, then I can fill and bleed from the highest point. My
> racecar is also a huge pain for bleeding the cooing system.
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! - No Cabin Heat - Look for closed valve [message #268893 is a reply to message #268888] |
Sun, 04 January 2015 20:00 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Ken Henderson wrote on Sun, 04 January 2015 18:30Len,
Several years ago I eliminated the H20 filling problem on my GMC: Into one
of the heater lines, I installed a brass screw-together hose coupling. To
fill the system, I use a cheap electric drill-driven pump pulling from the
antifreeze jugs. The output of the pump goes to one side of the coupling.
The other side of the coupling fits into the radiator overflow tank (if you
plan the installation right, you don't even need an added hose on that
side). When a solid flow of coolant runs into the overflow tank, reconnect
the coupling. For some reason, I didn't set it up with my ball valve just
above the coupling, so I lose a little antifreeze -- but not much.
Since the pump flushes the entire system, including the heater, there's no
subsequent burping.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Here is a link to photos by Ken of his radiator fill set up.
I followed this but left a capped flush out in the heater line through which I fill.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4278-simple-2fno-spill-2fno-air-cooling-system-filler.html
Dennis
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS! [message #268930 is a reply to message #268863] |
Mon, 05 January 2015 18:22 |
gene1
Messages: 50
Registered: February 2004
Location: Southern California
Karma: 0
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Member |
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Len,
We are driving our GMC to Las Vegas this Saturday, ending up in west LV on
Sunday. If you have any parts that you want to send, let me know and we can
stop in Fallbrook, pick them and arrange for your Len to get them. Let us
know.
Gene
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Len
Novak
Sent: Sunday, January 4, 2015 11:33 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS!
You probably figured out by now there are two Len Novaks.
Yours truly with the 78 Kingsley in Fallbrook CA and Len Novak (son) with a
76 Eleganza II in North Las Vegas. Lenny had used our coach at times with
his family when they visit us so he somewhat knows the coach. Pat and I
bought the coach sight unseen in Pahrump NV while he was stationed in South
Korea. We took a look at the coach a few weeks later while visiting his
family. It had been sitting for at least five years without moving or
starting. He is a darn good mechanic and has no problems getting his hands
dirty.
As soon as my knee heals sufficiently Pat and I will take a run out there
and give him a hand.
Cheers,
Len and Pat
1978 GMC Kingsley
The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!
Fallbrook, CA new email: B52Rule@Roadrunner.Com
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375
www.bdub.net/novak/
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Ken
Henderson
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2015 6:05 AM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] SUCCESS!
Len,
When you drop the tanks, you may want to consider these new, SS, fuel
senders:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330836201902?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName
=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
They're similar (mine had 3 lines) to the one I installed last year. They
require a little modification to the pickup, sender arm, and ground tabs,
but those are simple. They come with new locking rings and gaskets. A good
deal, IMHO.
The tank selector valve is a simple two-way solenoid valve which is
activated to Open when the front (Aux) tank is selected. They're prone, in
these days of caustic fuel, to sticking. They can stick in a position where
they allow air into the fuel line, preventing the pump from sucking liquid.
There are similar modern replacements, but I personally prefer to just
install two electric fuel pumps and select one of them with the dash switch.
Redundancy is nice and an electric boost pump will probably become mandatory
for vapor lock attenuation. The additional cost for the second pump to
replace the selector shouldn't be much.
If you've got to do all that work on the front end, you'll probably find it
most economical to just install the 1-Ton. Especially if it turns out, as
is likely, that the knuckles are badly worn.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL, Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sat, Jan 3, 2015 at 10:48 PM, Len Novak wrote:
> Well Matt , sound like I really need to drop the tanks. Then the
> selector valve, how does that work? My dad and I were having a
> discussion the other day about it. If I'm correct, it works with the
> rocker switch on the dash and controls what tank you are feeding from.
> It makes since that way, it has a hose from each fuel tank and wires
running to it.
>
> Front suspension, I will probably just tear it fully apart before
> long, swap bushings , ball joints etc etc . No hard to do , then from
> what I know about shocks these fronts are either undervalued or trash.
> There are speed humps going on the base, rolling slow the front end
> still crashes down on the bump stops, the rear was perfectly fine.
> This tells me they are junk, and the sway in the wind during my drive
> home with it, it felt like it wanted to oscillate, properly dampened
> shocks would stop that. I could probably get them thrown on a shock
> dyno
if needed to verify.
>
> I'm going to need a grease gun again, I only have a mini right now.
> More into Amsoil synthetics, but they are all very close.
>
> Thank you for the warm welcome Matt , I'm going to have a blast with
> this coach and community.
>
>
> Btw, found a split CV boot too. What fun.
> --
>
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