Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Power-washing... the interior!
| [GMCnet] Power-washing... the interior! [message #267444] |
Fri, 12 December 2014 05:21  |
Ek_Lektro
Messages: 167
Registered: March 2011
Karma: 2
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For those who've ever stripped out the interior, taken down the walls, scraped away old foam insulation to inspect for leaks, and wanted to start clean; I'm sure you know how hard it is to clean down into the gaps where floor meets wall. Even the air compressor and screwdriver / scraper doesn't get all the years of dirt accumulation and crap; and i didn't want to just spray new foam down on top of dirt... I want to properly seal those gaps with sealant first! Well, today i found a solution: Power-washer! Borrowed a friend's... put on googles and a raincoat, put it on the highest setting and yee haaa! Worked fantastic... had to be careful about remaining wiring, but wow, what a result: Ceiling, walls, floor... old bits of foam and dirt stuck between the ribs just washed away, down the drain; and now i can say we've got a clean slate to work with.
Followed up with the air compressor and shop wet/dry vac... Gotta make sure everything is properly dry before we seal it all up, of course. I'm thinking self leveling sealant for the nooks and crannies between floor and walls and roof. Also considering a quick coat of duct sealant, spreading it on the walls like paint; to seal away the multicolored remnants that remain,.. the old foam orange, the zinc chromate green and the bare aluminum. At least i'll test it on one wall and see how it works to later to affix the foil-back foam insulation (once dried), using 3M 777 spray adhesive on top of the dried duct sealant. Or, maybe just spread the duct sealant on the walls and then let it BE the adhesive?
Point is, it might be a little while before we seal everything up with the luan headliner, etc.. still debating what we're gonna use, and the color scheme; and so some bare walls might be exposed for several weeks while we make sure we've got all the wiring taken care of, etc. Might as well add this extra layer to have that "clean slate" to work from:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-Products-1-Gal-Water-Base-Duct-Mastic-Sealant-AC-DMS-01/202907022
We're going to start on this job tomorrow, so if anybody thinks i'm overlooking something, or has some better products to suggest, please let me know, soon, thanks!
Also, we're probably not going to get around to doing the flooring until the spring or summer, so i'm thinking of just putting a coat of paint on it for now. Even the power-washing couldn't remove 38 years of ground-in grime, dirt, bits of old paint.. Any suggestions on minor floor prep products or type of paint? i'm 90% sure we'll be putting a hardwood or vinyl floor on top eventually, but we're gonna live in this coach fairly full time from mid January to April, so a quick coat of paint and then throw rugs on top would work for now.
As usual, i'd surely appreciate the feedback from those who've done this job before, thanks much!
Greg / Los Angeles / SolarSonic
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| Re: [GMCnet] Power-washing... the interior! [message #267450 is a reply to message #267444] |
Fri, 12 December 2014 07:14  |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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G'day,
If you use a rotating single jet nozzles you wind up with a clean surface like this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KKJ6Ksqlzw
Anywhere there is bare aluminum it would be best if it was re-sprayed with zinc chromate.
If you use closed cell spray foam insulation you have a waterproof coating on the inside.
Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Ek_Lektro
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 10:21 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Power-washing... the interior!
For those who've ever stripped out the interior, taken down the walls, scraped away old foam insulation to inspect for leaks, and
wanted to start clean; I'm sure you know how hard it is to clean down into the gaps where floor meets wall. Even the air compressor
and screwdriver / scraper doesn't get all the years of dirt accumulation and crap; and i didn't want to just spray new foam down on
top of dirt... I want to properly seal those gaps with sealant first! Well, today i found a solution: Power-washer! Borrowed a
friend's... put on googles and a raincoat, put it on the highest setting and yee haaa! Worked fantastic... had to be careful about
remaining wiring, but wow, what a result: Ceiling, walls, floor... old bits of foam and dirt stuck between the ribs just washed
away, down the drain; and now i can say we've got a clean slate to work with.
Followed up with the air compressor and shop wet/dry vac... Gotta make sure everything is properly dry before we seal it all up, of
course. I'm thinking self leveling sealant for the nooks and crannies between floor and walls and roof. Also considering a quick
coat of duct sealant, spreading it on the walls like paint; to seal away the multicolored remnants that remain,.. the old foam
orange, the zinc chromate green and the bare aluminum. At least i'll test it on one wall and see how it works to later to affix the
foil-back foam insulation (once dried), using 3M 777 spray adhesive on top of the dried duct sealant. Or, maybe just spread the
duct sealant on the walls and then let it BE the adhesive?
Point is, it might be a little while before we seal everything up with the luan headliner, etc.. still debating what we're gonna
use, and the color scheme; and so some bare walls might be exposed for several weeks while we make sure we've got all the wiring
taken care of, etc. Might as well add this extra layer to have that "clean slate" to work from:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-Products-1-Gal-Water-Base-Duct-Mastic-Sealant-AC-DMS-01/202907022
We're going to start on this job tomorrow, so if anybody thinks i'm overlooking something, or has some better products to suggest,
please let me know, soon, thanks!
Also, we're probably not going to get around to doing the flooring until the spring or summer, so i'm thinking of just putting a
coat of paint on it for now. Even the power-washing couldn't remove 38 years of ground-in grime, dirt, bits of old paint.. Any
suggestions on minor floor prep products or type of paint? i'm 90% sure we'll be putting a hardwood or vinyl floor on top
eventually, but we're gonna live in this coach fairly full time from mid January to April, so a quick coat of paint and then throw
rugs on top would work for now.
As usual, i'd surely appreciate the feedback from those who've done this job before, thanks much!
Greg / Los Angeles / SolarSonic
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Power-washing... the interior! [message #267451 is a reply to message #267444] |
Fri, 12 December 2014 07:23 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Greg,
Sure wish I'd had that idea when I had my X-Birchaven gutted 16 years ago.
:-) If I'd planned to keep it this long, I'd probably have done something
like you're doing.
I have a personal bias against luan plywood. Every piece of it I've ever
seen LOVED water! Let a drop get within sight of the luan and it grabbed
it -- and then proceeded to separate. For my interior panels, I used "tile
board" -- Masonite coated on one side with Melamine for use in building
cheap showers. It's almost totally impervious to moisture, especially on
the coated side, which I turn up for ceiling panels. The uncoated side has
an excellent surface for adherence of adhesives.
Even more waterproof and lighter weight is Fibre Reinforced Plastic (FRP).
But it's a little too flimsey for my taste -- ceiling panels tend to sag.
There are other plastic panels, such as expanded foam and polyurethane
which perform a little better; some have nicer (not commercial bathroom)
finished.
Lots of options -- but NOT luan.
JMHO,
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 6:21 AM, Ek_Lektro wrote:
>
>
> ...
>
>
>
Point is, it might be a little while before we seal everything up with the
> luan headliner, etc.. still debating what we're gonna use, and the color
> scheme; and so
>
...
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Power-washing... the interior! [message #267454 is a reply to message #267444] |
Fri, 12 December 2014 08:20 |
GeorgeRud
Messages: 1380
Registered: February 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Once I had the floor down to bare wood, I used the West Marine epoxy system on the entire floor (after replacing some less than perfect wood at the outer edges of the driver's seat floor). It leaves a nice, waterproof surface to start with, but be sure to have plenty of ventilation!
I wish that I had done your pressure washing when I had my interior out, but I didn't go as far are removing the bath or closet modules. Good luck with your project and post pictures if possible.
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Power-washing... the interior! [message #267457 is a reply to message #267454] |
Fri, 12 December 2014 09:04 |
George B.
Messages: 213
Registered: February 2012
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Pressure washer is a great tool for a GMC'er. Never thought about using inside though. Wish my PO did that when he gutted the inside. Really liked the YouTube posted, thanks. Mine did a good job removing the decals.
George Butts
Las Vegas Nevada
73 "Custom 26' Q" & 76 23' Birchaven
71 Honda 600 Coupe & 01 Tracker Toads
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| Re: [GMCnet] Power-washing... the interior! [message #267461 is a reply to message #267444] |
Fri, 12 December 2014 09:49 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Talk to Bounds and Jeff at Alex sirum before you go any further with your interior plans. It's the short road.
Todd Sullivan
Sully
77 royale
Seattle
> On Dec 12, 2014, at 3:21 AM, Ek_Lektro wrote:
>
> For those who've ever stripped out the interior, taken down the walls, scraped away old foam insulation to inspect for leaks, and wanted to start clean; I'm sure you know how hard it is to clean down into the gaps where floor meets wall. Even the air compressor and screwdriver / scraper doesn't get all the years of dirt accumulation and crap; and i didn't want to just spray new foam down on top of dirt... I want to properly seal those gaps with sealant first! Well, today i found a solution: Power-washer! Borrowed a friend's... put on googles and a raincoat, put it on the highest setting and yee haaa! Worked fantastic... had to be careful about remaining wiring, but wow, what a result: Ceiling, walls, floor... old bits of foam and dirt stuck between the ribs just washed away, down the drain; and now i can say we've got a clean slate to work with.
> Followed up with the air compressor and shop wet/dry vac... Gotta make sure everything is properly dry before we seal it all up, of course. I'm thinking self leveling sealant for the nooks and crannies between floor and walls and roof. Also considering a quick coat of duct sealant, spreading it on the walls like paint; to seal away the multicolored remnants that remain,.. the old foam orange, the zinc chromate green and the bare aluminum. At least i'll test it on one wall and see how it works to later to affix the foil-back foam insulation (once dried), using 3M 777 spray adhesive on top of the dried duct sealant. Or, maybe just spread the duct sealant on the walls and then let it BE the adhesive?
> Point is, it might be a little while before we seal everything up with the luan headliner, etc.. still debating what we're gonna use, and the color scheme; and so some bare walls might be exposed for several weeks while we make sure we've got all the wiring taken care of, etc. Might as well add this extra layer to have that "clean slate" to work from:
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-Products-1-Gal-Water-Base-Duct-Mastic-Sealant-AC-DMS-01/202907022
> We're going to start on this job tomorrow, so if anybody thinks i'm overlooking something, or has some better products to suggest, please let me know, soon, thanks!
>
> Also, we're probably not going to get around to doing the flooring until the spring or summer, so i'm thinking of just putting a coat of paint on it for now. Even the power-washing couldn't remove 38 years of ground-in grime, dirt, bits of old paint.. Any suggestions on minor floor prep products or type of paint? i'm 90% sure we'll be putting a hardwood or vinyl floor on top eventually, but we're gonna live in this coach fairly full time from mid January to April, so a quick coat of paint and then throw rugs on top would work for now.
>
> As usual, i'd surely appreciate the feedback from those who've done this job before, thanks much!
> Greg / Los Angeles / SolarSonic
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Power-washing... the interior! [message #267502 is a reply to message #267444] |
Sat, 13 December 2014 07:31 |
Ek_Lektro
Messages: 167
Registered: March 2011
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Thanks everybody for all the info, again!
We're gonna start working on it in a few hours... after we hit Home Depot.
But here's the condensed follow-up:
> If you use closed cell spray foam insulation you have a waterproof coating on the inside.
Thanks for that, Rob. Important distinction. Not all spray foams are created equal!
This one looks good:
http://building.dow.com/na/en/products/sealants/windowdoor.htm
> Also considering a quick
> coat of duct sealant, spreading it on the walls like paint; to seal away the multicolored remnants that remain,..
> Might as well add this extra layer to have that "clean slate" to work from:
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-Products-1-Gal-Water-Base-Duct-Mastic-Sealant-AC-DMS-01/202907022
Nobody seemed to protest the use of this stuff (between the aluminum walls and the foil backed foam, so i guess we're gonna go for it.
> I have a personal bias against luan plywood.
> I used "tile board" -- Masonite coated on one side with Melamine for use in building
> cheap showers. It's almost totally impervious to moisture, especially on
> the coated side, which I turn up for ceiling panels. The uncoated side has
> an excellent surface for adherence of adhesives.
hey Ken, that was my error,... I used the word "luan" generically... I don't like the stuff either.
Tile board.... good recommendation, thanks!
Also, someone had recommended "West Marine epoxy system"
for painting over the floor. (i lost the email, sorry)
Is this what you were recommending?
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-system---105-epoxy-resin--P004_120_001_503
Wondering how much is needed to cover the floor
of a cut down 21-footer.. a gallon? Is it still effective if it is spread very thin, like a coat of paint?
OK, back to work, Thanks all!
Greg / SolarSonic / Los Angeles
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| Re: [GMCnet] Power-washing... the interior! [message #267504 is a reply to message #267444] |
Sat, 13 December 2014 08:37 |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
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A lesson I learned well last summer was about adhesives. All contact cement is NOT created equal. DAP/Weldwood makes a "Landau and vinyl top" contact cement. It comes in a can that looks just like the stuff you get a Lowes/HD etc. Even looks and smells the same. But it's not. Once the interior gets hot, the other stuff lets go. The heat resistant stuff is rock solid. I ran into a time crunch and took my Masonite/Melmine panels to a local upholstery shop for them to adhere the vinyl. I explained why and they showed me what they used, the Landau version, and sold me a gallon of it. (you can also order it over the internet). I watched them do my ceiling and they rough up the surface with very aggressive sandpaper, like 36 grit, to give the cement something to bite into.
I used some of what I had purchased on some wall panels and it worked great. It WILL NOT pull off. Something I was able to do with the other stuff.
One more thing, they and I used just a cheap spray gun to spray the contact cement. It goes on stringy with little overspray and is much FASTER, easier, and less waste, than using a brush or roller.
I also tried all the super dooper high dollar spray can adhesives available at Lowes. I have quite a collection of expensive stuff that isn't worth squat in hot vehicles.
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
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| Re: [GMCnet] Power-washing... the interior! [message #267570 is a reply to message #267444] |
Mon, 15 December 2014 08:18 |
Ek_Lektro
Messages: 167
Registered: March 2011
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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> All contact cement is NOT created equal. DAP/Weldwood makes a "Landau and vinyl top"
> contact cement. It comes in a can that looks just like the stuff you get a Lowes/HD etc. Even looks and smells the same. But it's not. Once the
> interior gets hot, the other stuff lets go. The heat resistant stuff is rock solid.
Yes, I know this stuff very well, and with a related horror story:
I took my Eleganza to a "professional" RV interior shop in 2008 for a new aluminum headliner (decent)
and vinyl wall covering (disaster). I told the owner about the DAP/Weldwood (having been advised by Jim Bounds), but instead, the guy sprayed 3M 777 on the existing luan panels, lecturing me at the same time that he's been doing it for years.. and he guarantees it.... blah blah blah. 3 weeks later, half of the vinyl on the walls had let go.
So then we arranged for him to come to MY garage with his tools, and a gallon of the specific DAP that i had ordered, and WE tried to repair the sh*tty job that he did... sometimes replacing full pieces of vinyl, and sometimes trying to patch up around the seams. Still didn't work too well, probably because the stupid luan was saturated with the 3M crap. After several months had gone by (and more drooping occurred), the shop owner stopped returning my calls. I tried to set up a small claims lawsuit, but was busy recovering from chemo at the time, so i just had to let it go and concentrate on my health! A friend helped me patch up the job with aluminum trim, and i put the first resoundingly negative Yelp review on this guy's page. http://www.yelp.com/biz/polishing-guru-the-riverside
I'm just happy that this time around we're doing the Birchhaven ourselves, from scratch, and avoiding the bullshit artists!
Greg / SolarSonic / Los Angeles / 21 foot custom Birchhaven... that is now leak-proof!
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| Re: [GMCnet] Power-washing... the interior! [message #267574 is a reply to message #267444] |
Mon, 15 December 2014 08:46 |
rcjordan
Messages: 1913
Registered: October 2012
Location: Elizabeth City, North Car...
Karma: 1
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>how much epoxy?
I'm thinking a quart will just about do 1 coat. I'd do at least 2 coats. Do 3 coats and the floor will be darn near impervious. Hold back on the hardener even if you're using the winter version. I've never had it fail to set, even when I was stretching for extended pot life. I love the stuff, btw.
I keep a cheap 120v pressure washer around just for chores ...everything from leaf-blowing to drain cleaning. They also do a pretty good job at moving topsoil for precision landscaping or edging.
To add to your arsenal, I highly recommend one of these steamers for screens, window tracks, glue removal, etc.
http://www.amazon.com/McCulloch-MC-1275-Heavy-Duty-Steam-Cleaner/dp/B0000DF0RB/
SOLD 77 Royale Coachmen Side Dry Bath
76 Birchaven Coachmen Side Wet Bath
76 Eleganza
Elizabeth City, NC
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| Re: [GMCnet] Power-washing... the interior! [message #267942 is a reply to message #267504] |
Sat, 20 December 2014 18:45 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Kerry,
I did a Google search for this product and came up with this link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAP-Weldwood-Contact-Cement-Gallon-HHR-Industrial-Grade-Landau-Top-Trim-/281094382720
You can buy it in 1 gallon quantities for $29.50 plus $17.85 from Little Rock, AK to Humble, TX.
Since this product is solvent based it is considered a dangerous good and the company won't ship it out of the USA as that gets
complicated!
Gene,
I would suggest you capture this product and put it in the folder you have on the Photo Site entitled Chemicals.
Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Kerry Pinkerton
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2014 1:37 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Power-washing... the interior!
A lesson I learned well last summer was about adhesives. All contact cement is NOT created equal. DAP/Weldwood makes a "Landau and
vinyl top"
contact cement. It comes in a can that looks just like the stuff you get a Lowes/HD etc. Even looks and smells the same. But it's
not. Once the
interior gets hot, the other stuff lets go. The heat resistant stuff is rock solid. I ran into a time crunch and took my
Masonite/Melmine panels to
a local upholstery shop for them to adhere the vinyl. I explained why and they showed me what they used, the Landau version, and
sold me a gallon of
it. (you can also order it over the internet). I watched them do my ceiling and they rough up the surface with very aggressive
sandpaper, like 36
grit, to give the cement something to bite into.
I used some of what I had purchased on some wall panels and it worked great. It WILL NOT pull off. Something I was able to do with
the other stuff.
One more thing, they and I used just a cheap spray gun to spray the contact cement. It goes on stringy with little overspray and is
much FASTER,
easier, and less waste, than using a brush or roller.
I also tried all the super dooper high dollar spray can adhesives available at Lowes. I have quite a collection of expensive stuff
that isn't worth
squat in hot vehicles.
--
Kerry Pinkerton
North Alabama, near Huntsville,
77 Eleganza II, "The Lady", 403CI, Manny Brakes, 1 ton, tranny also a 76 Eleganza to be re-bodied as an Art Deco car hauler
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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