Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Problem with my Electrolevel I
Problem with my Electrolevel I [message #264807] |
Sat, 25 October 2014 16:59 |
Larry
Messages: 2875 Registered: January 2004 Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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All functions work on my Electrolevel I ACCEPT, when the coach is high, and I put the middle switch in AUTO, it does not level out automatically. It will automatically level if the coach is low. If it is low, I just set the switch to AUTO and it comes up to level and stops at it's preset point. Bot UP and DOWN switches work to manually raise or lower. I have checked out the "AUTO/HOLD" switch and it is functioning properly. Any Ideas?
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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Re: Problem with my Electrolevel I [message #264808 is a reply to message #264807] |
Sat, 25 October 2014 17:26 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030 Registered: January 2004 Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Before you tear into things trying to diagnose the problem, I suggest that you take apart all three switches. Then clean and lube the contacts.
After that I would be looking at the leveling air switch / valve on the failing side. You can disconnect the operating rod on it and force it to move up and down to see if works. There is a time delay on those leveling valves. If you need one, Jim K. has new ones. Also Dave Lenzi rebuilds them.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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Re: [GMCnet] Problem with my Electrolevel I [message #264835 is a reply to message #264832] |
Sun, 26 October 2014 08:09 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442 Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
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Larry
This happened to me several years back. I was in Bob Drewes driveway and the two of us worked on it for about three hours and finally g ave up.
Later at home I found the problem. One of the tubes going over the passenger side frame rail was flattened. After I spliced in a new section everything worked fine again. That is when I replaced my frame spacers.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
> On Oct 26, 2014, at 6:50 AM, Larry wrote:
>
> Ken Burton wrote on Sat, 25 October 2014 17:26
>> Before you tear into things trying to diagnose the problem, I suggest that you take apart all three switches. Then clean and lube the contacts.
>>
>>
>> After that I would be looking at the leveling air switch / valve on the failing side. You can disconnect the operating rod on it and force it to
>> move up and down to see if works. There is a time delay on those leveling valves. If you need one, Jim K. has new ones. Also Dave Lenzi rebuilds
>> them.
>
>
> Thanks for the response Ken. All three switches have been cleaned and lubed with "Corrosion X". I did take the operating rods off and moved them
> manually. After the built in delay, both would work for raising the coach, but would not lower the coach. Both leveling valves are rebuilts from Dave
> L. Guess I should have mentioned this in my original post. Any other ideas??
> Thanks.
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
> _______________________________________________
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Re: [GMCnet] Problem with my Electrolevel I [message #264837 is a reply to message #264835] |
Sun, 26 October 2014 09:10 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806 Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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The diodes in your question are in the wire harness between the power
source and the switches. If still in original configuration, they should
appear as lumps in the conductors. They should be preceeded by a multi-pin
connector that can be disconnected. Then contacts can be back probed on the
switch contacts and the pins. If diodes are good, they should only allow
continuity in one direction. I know you personally know how to do this, but
for others that don't, set your dmm on continuity, probe with the leads +
to -, then reverse them. You should only see scaling on a digital meter, or
needle swing on an analog, one polarity or the other, but not both. Hope
this is clear enough instructions.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
On Oct 26, 2014 6:10 AM, "Emery Stora" wrote:
> Larry
> This happened to me several years back. I was in Bob Drewes driveway and
> the two of us worked on it for about three hours and finally g ave up.
>
> Later at home I found the problem. One of the tubes going over the
> passenger side frame rail was flattened. After I spliced in a new section
> everything worked fine again. That is when I replaced my frame spacers.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
>
>> On Oct 26, 2014, at 6:50 AM, Larry wrote:
>>
>> Ken Burton wrote on Sat, 25 October 2014 17:26
>>> Before you tear into things trying to diagnose the problem, I suggest
> that you take apart all three switches. Then clean and lube the contacts.
>>>
>>>
>>> After that I would be looking at the leveling air switch / valve on the
> failing side. You can disconnect the operating rod on it and force it to
>>> move up and down to see if works. There is a time delay on those
> leveling valves. If you need one, Jim K. has new ones. Also Dave Lenzi
> rebuilds
>>> them.
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the response Ken. All three switches have been cleaned and
> lubed with "Corrosion X". I did take the operating rods off and moved them
>> manually. After the built in delay, both would work for raising the
> coach, but would not lower the coach. Both leveling valves are rebuilts
> from Dave
>> L. Guess I should have mentioned this in my original post. Any other
> ideas??
>> Thanks.
>> --
>> Larry
>> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
>> Menomonie, WI.
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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Re: [GMCnet] Problem with my Electrolevel I [message #264839 is a reply to message #264837] |
Sun, 26 October 2014 09:21 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117 Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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On Sun, Oct 26, 2014 at 7:10 AM, James Hupy wrote:
or do this
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/flor-gmc-s-in-florence-or/p40827-wireless-air-block-diagram-by-gmces-bryon.html
erf
The diodes in your question are in the wire harness between the power
> source and the switches. If still in original configuration, they should
> appear as lumps in the conductors. They should be preceeded by a multi-pin
> connector that can be disconnected. Then contacts can be back probed on the
> switch contacts and the pins. If diodes are good, they should only allow
> continuity in one direction. I know you personally know how to do this, but
> for others that don't, set your dmm on continuity, probe with the leads +
> to -, then reverse them. You should only see scaling on a digital meter, or
> needle swing on an analog, one polarity or the other, but not both. Hope
> this is clear enough instructions.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 GMC ROYALE 403
> On Oct 26, 2014 6:10 AM, "Emery Stora" wrote:
>
>> Larry
>> This happened to me several years back. I was in Bob Drewes driveway and
>> the two of us worked on it for about three hours and finally g ave up.
>>
>> Later at home I found the problem. One of the tubes going over the
>> passenger side frame rail was flattened. After I spliced in a new section
>> everything worked fine again. That is when I replaced my frame spacers.
>>
>> Emery Stora
>> 77 Kingsley
>> Frederick, CO
>>
>>> On Oct 26, 2014, at 6:50 AM, Larry wrote:
>>>
>>> Ken Burton wrote on Sat, 25 October 2014 17:26
>>>> Before you tear into things trying to diagnose the problem, I suggest
>> that you take apart all three switches. Then clean and lube the
> contacts.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> After that I would be looking at the leveling air switch / valve on
> the
>> failing side. You can disconnect the operating rod on it and force it to
>>>> move up and down to see if works. There is a time delay on those
>> leveling valves. If you need one, Jim K. has new ones. Also Dave Lenzi
>> rebuilds
>>>> them.
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the response Ken. All three switches have been cleaned and
>> lubed with "Corrosion X". I did take the operating rods off and moved
> them
>>> manually. After the built in delay, both would work for raising the
>> coach, but would not lower the coach. Both leveling valves are rebuilts
>> from Dave
>>> L. Guess I should have mentioned this in my original post. Any other
>> ideas??
>>> Thanks.
>>> --
>>> Larry
>>> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
>>> Menomonie, WI.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
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Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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Re: Problem with my Electrolevel I [message #264878 is a reply to message #264832] |
Sun, 26 October 2014 21:25 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030 Registered: January 2004 Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Larry wrote on Sun, 26 October 2014 07:50Ken Burton wrote on Sat, 25 October 2014 17:26Before you tear into things trying to diagnose the problem, I suggest that you take apart all three switches. Then clean and lube the contacts.
After that I would be looking at the leveling air switch / valve on the failing side. You can disconnect the operating rod on it and force it to move up and down to see if works. There is a time delay on those leveling valves. If you need one, Jim K. has new ones. Also Dave Lenzi rebuilds them.
Thanks for the response Ken. All three switches have been cleaned and lubed with "Corrosion X". I did take the operating rods off and moved them manually. After the built in delay, both would work for raising the coach, but would not lower the coach. Both leveling valves are rebuilts from Dave L. Guess I should have mentioned this in my original post. Any other ideas??
Thanks.
OK, I'll go dig out the diagram and figure out how it works.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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Re: Problem with my Electrolevel I [message #264891 is a reply to message #264878] |
Mon, 27 October 2014 08:39 |
Larry
Messages: 2875 Registered: January 2004 Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Ken Burton wrote on Sun, 26 October 2014 21:25Larry wrote on Sun, 26 October 2014 07:50Ken Burton wrote on Sat, 25 October 2014 17:26Before you tear into things trying to diagnose the problem, I suggest that you take apart all three switches. Then clean and lube the contacts.
After that I would be looking at the leveling air switch / valve on the failing side. You can disconnect the operating rod on it and force it to move up and down to see if works. There is a time delay on those leveling valves. If you need one, Jim K. has new ones. Also Dave Lenzi rebuilds them.
Thanks for the response Ken. All three switches have been cleaned and lubed with "Corrosion X". I did take the operating rods off and moved them manually. After the built in delay, both would work for raising the coach, but would not lower the coach. Both leveling valves are rebuilts from Dave L. Guess I should have mentioned this in my original post. Any other ideas??
Thanks.
OK, I'll go dig out the diagram and figure out how it works.
OH Ken...You don't need to do that, I was just hoping that someone had the same problem with a simple fix. I did pull the coach in the driveway and check all of the air lines that pass between the frame and the body. (suggested by Emery) All seem OK. I did replace all of the body pads a few years ago so didn't really expect a problem there...but you never know, so I checked them anyway. I'm still looking for the diodes that Jim H is referring to, to no avail...even though I can't see how that would effect operation of the "auto down function". When I hit the manual down switch, it works fine, but auto down does not. there is something common to both R and L auto down. Just cannot figure out what it is.
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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Re: Problem with my Electrolevel I [message #264896 is a reply to message #264891] |
Mon, 27 October 2014 09:46 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030 Registered: January 2004 Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Larry,
Here is what I remember and think. Let me qualify that I'm not an expert in this area and could be wrong. The lowering function in controlled by the leveling switch and it exhausts the air right at the sensor. In the sensor there is one small port that goes no where except to the outside air. Buried inside that port is a special schrader valve with a very weak spring that allows the air to exhaust but not enter. So when the sensor is in exhaust, air will be depleted from the bag if the hold solenoid is powered. The hold solenoid / valve is powered with the key on and switch is in travel.
The air path between the sensor and bag is: sensor to n/o raise solenoid, to n/o lower solenoid, to n/c hold solenoid, to the air bag.
So my first guess is those schraders in the leveling sensor. I would disconnect the rod on the leveling sensor. They turn the key on and move the rod to cause the bag to loose air. If nothing happens after the time delay, then remove the schrader and move the sensor lever again. If there is still no air loss then I would slide a block or jack stand under the coach and disconnect the hose from the leveler that goes to raise solenoid. I'm sorry but I do not have the hose colors on this diagram. There are two hoses. One goes to the air tank manifold and the other to the raise solenoid. If you pull the wrong one, the air tank will go empty but the bags should stay up if the sensor is in the neutral position.
If after disconnecting the correct hose and moving the sensor rod if the air stays in the bag then the senor is not your problem. You are going to have to trace the problem back through the raise, lower, and hold solenoids.
I sent you a diagram that I have on my laptop illustrating this.
I'm thinking strongly at this point that your problem is in the exhaust schraders.
Ken
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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Re: Problem with my Electrolevel I [message #264915 is a reply to message #264896] |
Mon, 27 October 2014 13:02 |
Larry
Messages: 2875 Registered: January 2004 Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Ken Burton wrote on Mon, 27 October 2014 09:46Larry,
Here is what I remember and think. Let me qualify that I'm not an expert in this area and could be wrong. The lowering function in controlled by the leveling switch and it exhausts the air right at the sensor. In the sensor there is one small port that goes no where except to the outside air. Buried inside that port is a special schrader valve with a very weak spring that allows the air to exhaust but not enter. So when the sensor is in exhaust, air will be depleted from the bag if the hold solenoid is powered. The hold solenoid / valve is powered with the key on and switch is in travel.
The air path between the sensor and bag is: sensor to n/o raise solenoid, to n/o lower solenoid, to n/c hold solenoid, to the air bag.
So my first guess is those schraders in the leveling sensor. I would disconnect the rod on the leveling sensor. They turn the key on and move the rod to cause the bag to loose air. If nothing happens after the time delay, then remove the schrader and move the sensor lever again. If there is still no air loss then I would slide a block or jack stand under the coach and disconnect the hose from the leveler that goes to raise solenoid. I'm sorry but I do not have the hose colors on this diagram. There are two hoses. One goes to the air tank manifold and the other to the raise solenoid. If you pull the wrong one, the air tank will go empty but the bags should stay up if the sensor is in the neutral position.
If after disconnecting the correct hose and moving the sensor rod if the air stays in the bag then the senor is not your problem. You are going to have to trace the problem back through the raise, lower, and hold solenoids.
I sent you a diagram that I have on my laptop illustrating this.
I'm thinking strongly at this point that your problem is in the exhaust schraders.
Ken
Thanks so much Ken!! I'm gonna look at it this afternoon, while the weather is still good. Tomorrow...cold and rain.
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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Re: Problem with my Electrolevel I [message #264943 is a reply to message #264915] |
Mon, 27 October 2014 19:38 |
Larry
Messages: 2875 Registered: January 2004 Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Larry wrote on Mon, 27 October 2014 13:02Ken Burton wrote on Mon, 27 October 2014 09:46Larry,
Here is what I remember and think. Let me qualify that I'm not an expert in this area and could be wrong. The lowering function in controlled by the leveling switch and it exhausts the air right at the sensor. In the sensor there is one small port that goes no where except to the outside air. Buried inside that port is a special schrader valve with a very weak spring that allows the air to exhaust but not enter. So when the sensor is in exhaust, air will be depleted from the bag if the hold solenoid is powered. The hold solenoid / valve is powered with the key on and switch is in travel.
The air path between the sensor and bag is: sensor to n/o raise solenoid, to n/o lower solenoid, to n/c hold solenoid, to the air bag.
So my first guess is those schraders in the leveling sensor. I would disconnect the rod on the leveling sensor. They turn the key on and move the rod to cause the bag to loose air. If nothing happens after the time delay, then remove the schrader and move the sensor lever again. If there is still no air loss then I would slide a block or jack stand under the coach and disconnect the hose from the leveler that goes to raise solenoid. I'm sorry but I do not have the hose colors on this diagram. There are two hoses. One goes to the air tank manifold and the other to the raise solenoid. If you pull the wrong one, the air tank will go empty but the bags should stay up if the sensor is in the neutral position.
If after disconnecting the correct hose and moving the sensor rod if the air stays in the bag then the senor is not your problem. You are going to have to trace the problem back through the raise, lower, and hold solenoids.
I sent you a diagram that I have on my laptop illustrating this.
I'm thinking strongly at this point that your problem is in the exhaust schraders.
Ken
Thanks so much Ken!! I'm gonna look at it this afternoon, while the weather is still good. Tomorrow...cold and rain.
Ken,
Thanks for the drawing and the note on the forum. Using what you sent and note on forum, I went out to the coach and looked for the open air exhaust on the level sensor. Found it and noted that the wire sticking out of it was frozen in place. I then called Dave L (since he rebuilds these sensors) and asked him about the exhaust wire. After a lengthy discussion, and to get to the point, he told me that there was a schrader valve, "O" ring and a fine mesh screen behind that wire. The wire was there only to move around and keep the exhaust clear. He said I should unscrew the schrader valve assembly, pull out the screen, and then turn on the switch and move the arm to the lower position. The valve worked!! So, I pulled the schrader out of the exhaust assembly, and put some "Kroil" (liquid wrench) down in the schrader assembly and grabbed the wire with a needle nose pliers and gently pulled and twisted the wire until it broke loose. Cleaned it out good with kroil and compressed air and reassembled. Vwa-la, it works perfect!! Took the other side apart and sure enough...same problem. Both sides, the wire in the schrader assembly were rusted shut. So, your guess that it had something to do with the schrader valve was darn close, and helped me solve the problem. I think now I will squirt a little Kroil on that wire every time I do an oil change/grease job....just to keep it free. I then filled the bags to full up, and set the controls to automatic. After a couple of minutes, it lowered itself to the preset ride height and stopped. Then let air out of the bags down to the ground. Again set to automatic and waited while it came up to preset height and stopped. PERFECT!!!
Thanks for your help. Don't know that I'd have found that by myself.
A good lesson for all with the Electro level I. Squirt a little Kroil on that wire every so often.
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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Re: Problem with my Electrolevel I [message #264968 is a reply to message #264943] |
Tue, 28 October 2014 01:44 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030 Registered: January 2004 Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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I also received the above note from Larry off net.
I responded by telling him to install a couple curved short pieces of hose on those ports and point them down. These hoses will keep the moisture and road dirt from accumulating on the ports and provide a long term fix for the problem.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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Re: [GMCnet] Problem with my Electrolevel I [message #264969 is a reply to message #264967] |
Tue, 28 October 2014 01:56 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030 Registered: January 2004 Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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For less than $15.00 you can get a water separator from TSC and other places. I have a long tube tube on the output of the compressor to allow for some cooling of the compressed air. Then I run the air through the separator before going to the rest of the system. I originally made the tube out of a coil of soft copper. One day when I was doing some changes I just made the tube out of 2 feet of hard plastic air line instead. It was much easier and quicker than bending new copper. I drain the separator about once a year.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Campbell-hausfeld-MP513803AV-Mini-Filter/21295335
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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