Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Brake Bleeding Problem (Not Getting Any Fluid At The Wheels)
| Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257289] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 09:55  |
glenn2726
Messages: 234
Registered: June 2014
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Hi All, well my latest endeavor to get the brakes working is not going as planned...lol.. To begin this thread let me say that when I drove this coach home I had little to no braking as the master cylinder was dry at the bottom hole and even though I added some fluid, it didn't help. Yesterday I decided to try bleeding the lines and as the manual suggests I started with the driver side front first, that's where the problem started, no brake fluid at the bleeder valve. I removed the bleeder valve and put teflon tape on it and reinserted it and then hooked up my power brake bleeder to the valve, would not suck any fluid from the master cylinder to the bleeder valve. I checked that the proportioning valve by the driver side wheel well had the little valve on the end pressed in and it was, tried pulling it out but still no brake fluid to be found. So I went to the passenger side...sucked out old fluid but new was not being sucked from reservoir. So went back and looked at driver side wheel and brakes and could see that the brakes hadn't even been working as the disc still had rust on it from sitting so long. However the passenger side was shiny from the drive home...So, that was why there were hardly any brakes. So now my guess is that the proportioning valve is bad?? I even had my wife slowly pump the brakes in the coach to see if I could get any fluid through the system with no luck. Tried using the power brake bleeder while pumping the brakes...still no brake fluid coming through...so if my assumption is right then what part do I need and does anyone have a part number for a local parts store to use? Also that valve on the proportioning valve works how? It states in the manual to use a special tool to make sure the valve is pushed in..mine seems to be in as I can pull it out a bit which still didn't let any fluid through. Also when pumping the brake pedal noticed that the fluid in the lower reservoir would spurt up about an inch or less when pumping but not getting anything to the bleeder valves.
So as a recap, when I removed the bleeder valve at the driver side wheel there was no fluid there..and brakes hadn't been working as the disc was still rusty. When I removed the bleeder valve at the passenger side wheel there was brake fluid..but couldn't get the new fluid to the wheel by either the vacuum or by pumping the brake pedal. So before I go any further what should my next step be?? I think if I cracked the line from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve that I would get fluid there but not from the proportioning valve to the wheels? I am going to bleed the master cylinder and then try getting fluid from the proportioning valve to the wheels again but I feel it is the proportioning valve..also the lines to the disc brakes at the front look good. Thanks in advance for all your help and hopefully will get the brakes working properly soon....Glenn
Glenn W
Topeka, KS
1974 GMC 26 ft. Color:Camel Interior:Canyon Land
Side Bath, Rear Sitting Area
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257293 is a reply to message #257289] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 10:24  |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Well Glenn, don't know quite where to start here, but that has never
stopped me before, so here goes. 1. Fill the master cylinder with fresh
brake fluid. If you still have the original mc, the front reservoir
supplies fluid to the rear brakes. If it is empty, your rear brakes are
leaking fluid and the wheels and drums need to come off for inspection and
repair. From your description of events, sounds like you have a frozen
caliber piston on the rusty side, and perhaps the caliber mounting pins
need some attention as well as the flexible lines to the front brakes. DO
NOT MICKEY MOUSE BRAKE REPAIRS. It sounds to me like it is time for a major
brake job on your coach. Your life as well as the lives of those in your
path are at stake. If you lack the skill for this, get professional help.
One more thing, the plunger on the distribution valve should be held in
when bleeding brakes, not pulled out.
Hope this helps.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
On Jul 31, 2014 7:55 AM, "Glenn Whitt" wrote:
> Hi All, well my latest endeavor to get the brakes working is not going as
> planned...lol.. To begin this thread let me say that when I drove this coach
> home I had little to no braking as the master cylinder was dry at the
> bottom hole and even though I added some fluid, it didn't help. Yesterday I
> decided to try bleeding the lines and as the manual suggests I started
> with the driver side front first, that's where the problem started, no brake
> fluid at the bleeder valve. I removed the bleeder valve and put teflon
> tape on it and reinserted it and then hooked up my power brake bleeder to
> the
> valve, would not suck any fluid from the master cylinder to the bleeder
> valve. I checked that the proportioning valve by the driver side wheel well
> had the little valve on the end pressed in and it was, tried pulling it
> out but still no brake fluid to be found. So I went to the passenger
> side...sucked out old fluid but new was not being sucked from reservoir.
> So went back and looked at driver side wheel and brakes and could see that
> the brakes hadn't even been working as the disc still had rust on it from
> sitting so long. However the passenger side was shiny from the drive
> home...So, that was why there were hardly any brakes. So now my guess is
> that the proportioning valve is bad?? I even had my wife slowly pump the
> brakes in the coach to see if I could get any fluid through the system
> with no luck. Tried using the power brake bleeder while pumping the
> brakes...still no brake fluid coming through...so if my assumption is
> right then what part do I need and does anyone have a part number for a
> local
> parts store to use? Also that valve on the proportioning valve works how?
> It states in the manual to use a special tool to make sure the valve is
> pushed in..mine seems to be in as I can pull it out a bit which still
> didn't let any fluid through. Also when pumping the brake pedal noticed
> that
> the fluid in the lower reservoir would spurt up about an inch or less when
> pumping but not getting anything to the bleeder valves.
> So as a recap, when I removed the bleeder valve at the driver side wheel
> there was no fluid there..and brakes hadn't been working as the disc was
> still rusty. When I removed the bleeder valve at the passenger side wheel
> there was brake fluid..but couldn't get the new fluid to the wheel by
> either the vacuum or by pumping the brake pedal. So before I go any
> further what should my next step be?? I think if I cracked the line from
> the
> master cylinder to the proportioning valve that I would get fluid there
> but not from the proportioning valve to the wheels? I am going to bleed the
> master cylinder and then try getting fluid from the proportioning valve to
> the wheels again but I feel it is the proportioning valve..also the lines
> to the disc brakes at the front look good. Thanks in advance for all your
> help and hopefully will get the brakes working properly soon....Glenn
> --
> Glenn W
> Topeka, KS
> 1974 GMC 26 ft. Color:Camel Interior:Canyon Land
> Side Bath, Rear Sitting Area
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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| Re: Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257296 is a reply to message #257289] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 10:41 |
glenn2726
Messages: 234
Registered: June 2014
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Hi Jim thanks for the reply. As no fluid is being drawn into the lines from the rear reservoir of the master cylinder for the front brakes I am assuming a blockage somewhere? I am trying to bleed the brakes first (unsuccessfully) then as you stated will probably need to replace the brake caliper on the drive side if I can ever get brake fluid to it. The pin on the proportioning valve is in the in position as I can pull it out (seems to be spring loaded) and it stays in the closed position. Tried it both ways with no fluid to either wheel on the front. Yes I first removed all the old brake fluid in the master cylinder and refilled with new prior to starting my brake bleeding. As the front reservoir on the master cylinder was dry when I got the coach then yes I will be looking for a leak at the rear wheels. This coach had sat for about 5 years so the brake system as well as everything else has deteriorated..lol Glenn
Glenn W
Topeka, KS
1974 GMC 26 ft. Color:Camel Interior:Canyon Land
Side Bath, Rear Sitting Area
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| Re: Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257297 is a reply to message #257296] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 10:47 |
midlf
Messages: 2212
Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Disconnect the brake line hoses at the frame end and see if you get fluid flow out of the hard line. These hoses can swell internally and block the system.
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257298 is a reply to message #257293] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 10:48 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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If the front passenger side brake was working the proportioning valve was
working, do as Jim says and an overhaul of the front brakes.
Glen wrote,
Yesterday I decided to try bleeding the lines and as the manual suggests I
started with the driver side front first.
When bleeding brakes, start with the brake that is the farthest from the
master cylinder, rear passenger brake and work toward the closest.
On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 9:24 AM, James Hupy wrote:
> Well Glenn, don't know quite where to start here, but that has never
> stopped me before, so here goes. 1. Fill the master cylinder with fresh
> brake fluid. If you still have the original mc, the front reservoir
> supplies fluid to the rear brakes. If it is empty, your rear brakes are
> leaking fluid and the wheels and drums need to come off for inspection and
> repair. From your description of events, sounds like you have a frozen
> caliber piston on the rusty side, and perhaps the caliber mounting pins
> need some attention as well as the flexible lines to the front brakes. DO
> NOT MICKEY MOUSE BRAKE REPAIRS. It sounds to me like it is time for a major
> brake job on your coach. Your life as well as the lives of those in your
> path are at stake. If you lack the skill for this, get professional help.
> One more thing, the plunger on the distribution valve should be held in
> when bleeding brakes, not pulled out.
> Hope this helps.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 GMC ROYALE 403
> On Jul 31, 2014 7:55 AM, "Glenn Whitt" wrote:
>
>> Hi All, well my latest endeavor to get the brakes working is not going as
>> planned...lol.. To begin this thread let me say that when I drove this
> coach
>> home I had little to no braking as the master cylinder was dry at the
>> bottom hole and even though I added some fluid, it didn't help.
> Yesterday I
>> decided to try bleeding the lines and as the manual suggests I started
>> with the driver side front first, that's where the problem started, no
> brake
>> fluid at the bleeder valve. I removed the bleeder valve and put teflon
>> tape on it and reinserted it and then hooked up my power brake bleeder to
>> the
>> valve, would not suck any fluid from the master cylinder to the bleeder
>> valve. I checked that the proportioning valve by the driver side wheel
> well
>> had the little valve on the end pressed in and it was, tried pulling it
>> out but still no brake fluid to be found. So I went to the passenger
>> side...sucked out old fluid but new was not being sucked from reservoir.
>> So went back and looked at driver side wheel and brakes and could see
> that
>> the brakes hadn't even been working as the disc still had rust on it from
>> sitting so long. However the passenger side was shiny from the drive
>> home...So, that was why there were hardly any brakes. So now my guess is
>> that the proportioning valve is bad?? I even had my wife slowly pump the
>> brakes in the coach to see if I could get any fluid through the system
>> with no luck. Tried using the power brake bleeder while pumping the
>> brakes...still no brake fluid coming through...so if my assumption is
>> right then what part do I need and does anyone have a part number for a
>> local
>> parts store to use? Also that valve on the proportioning valve works
> how?
>> It states in the manual to use a special tool to make sure the valve is
>> pushed in..mine seems to be in as I can pull it out a bit which still
>> didn't let any fluid through. Also when pumping the brake pedal noticed
>> that
>> the fluid in the lower reservoir would spurt up about an inch or less
> when
>> pumping but not getting anything to the bleeder valves.
>> So as a recap, when I removed the bleeder valve at the driver side wheel
>> there was no fluid there..and brakes hadn't been working as the disc was
>> still rusty. When I removed the bleeder valve at the passenger side
> wheel
>> there was brake fluid..but couldn't get the new fluid to the wheel by
>> either the vacuum or by pumping the brake pedal. So before I go any
>> further what should my next step be?? I think if I cracked the line from
>> the
>> master cylinder to the proportioning valve that I would get fluid there
>> but not from the proportioning valve to the wheels? I am going to bleed
> the
>> master cylinder and then try getting fluid from the proportioning valve
> to
>> the wheels again but I feel it is the proportioning valve..also the lines
>> to the disc brakes at the front look good. Thanks in advance for all
> your
>> help and hopefully will get the brakes working properly soon....Glenn
>> --
>> Glenn W
>> Topeka, KS
>> 1974 GMC 26 ft. Color:Camel Interior:Canyon Land
>> Side Bath, Rear Sitting Area
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
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Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
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| Re: Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257300 is a reply to message #257289] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 11:00 |
glenn2726
Messages: 234
Registered: June 2014
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Thanks for the replies..I have always bled brakes starting at the furthermost point first but the manual for the GMC states left front, right front, left middle, left rear, right middle then right rear. So figured would follow the manuals instructions. As it turns out I guess it didn't matter..lol..I'm getting ready to get new hoses and new calipers for the front and then try and get fluid after removing the hoses. That is the plan at the present. Since the right front brake was working then I would have thought I would have been able to get fluid through that line but so far unsuccessful at either side. If the proportioning valve is in the closed position should it bypass fluid or should I hold it in the open position? One previous brake repair thread said they had to hold it in the open position? Thanks, Glenn
Glenn W
Topeka, KS
1974 GMC 26 ft. Color:Camel Interior:Canyon Land
Side Bath, Rear Sitting Area
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| Re: Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257304 is a reply to message #257296] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 11:19 |
A Hamilto
Messages: 4508
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 39
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Senior Member |
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glenn2726 wrote on Thu, 31 July 2014 10:41Hi Jim thanks for the reply. As no fluid is being drawn into the lines from the rear reservoir of the master cylinder for the front brakes I am assuming a blockage somewhere? I am trying to bleed the brakes first (unsuccessfully) then as you stated will probably need to replace the brake caliper on the drive side if I can ever get brake fluid to it. The pin on the proportioning valve is in the in position as I can pull it out (seems to be spring loaded) and it stays in the closed position. Tried it both ways with no fluid to either wheel on the front. Yes I first removed all the old brake fluid in the master cylinder and refilled with new prior to starting my brake bleeding. As the front reservoir on the master cylinder was dry when I got the coach then yes I will be looking for a leak at the rear wheels. This coach had sat for about 5 years so the brake system as well as everything else has deteriorated..lol Glenn It is my understanding that the valve has to be held in. You can't just press it and walk away. If you are doing that, and it is staying where you put it, it is probably not going in as far as it needs to, and it is sticking.
Also, if the pedal ever went all the way to the floor, the rubber on the master cylinder piston is probably mucked up by the rust and crud at the bottom of the cylinder and you either need to rebuild or replace the master cylinder. If the combination valve was working, you would still be able to get fluid where you want using a pressure or vacuum bleeder, but when you get the bleeding to work, do what has to be done to the master cylinder before actually bleeding the brakes or you will have to bleed again after the master cylinder work is done.
Since the front piston is mucked up, it is no longer getting pressure to the rear brakes. When you press the pedal, the combination valve is therefore not opening to allow fluid to the front calipers anymore. So your brakes are not working even as poorly as they did when you drove it home. Repair the master cylinder and when it starts getting pressure to the rear brakes, the combination valve will then allow pressure to the fronts, and you could bleed the brakes the old fashioned way of pumping the pedal. That is assuming the rears are working well enough to hold enough pressure for the combination valve to work.
Combination valve rebuild tutorial starts here http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/deciphering-the-combination-valve/p5314.html
Do NOT disable the metering valve as shown in this part of the tutorial here http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/deciphering-the-combination-valve/p5335.html
Or buy one
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/770
To recap:
There has to be a certain amount of pressure to the rear brakes before the combination valve allows fluid to the fronts. So
1. Replace or rebuild the master cylinder
2. Get the rear wheel cylinders done and shoes and springs or whatever to get them up to snuff.
3. Bleed the rear brakes and get them working.
4. Adjust the rear brakes
Now you are at a point where you can evaluate the condition of the combination valve (and the front calipers). If the combination valve is working, and the master cylinder does not have air in the front brake reservoir, you should now be able to get fluid at the front bleeders when the pedal is applied.
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| Re: Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257305 is a reply to message #257289] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 11:25 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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my 2 cents...
I have piece by piece fixed my brakes. I don't recommend that, but sometimes it is how things are done.
1st step buy a brake bleeder from Jim Hupy.
http://www.bdub.net/jhupy/
for his advertised price of $75. there is no messing around in what works and doesn't work bleeding brakes. then if you fix one thing and find another, you only spend 10 minutes bleeding the brakes after you replace the next part.
then buy a master cylinder. they are cheap, and readily available. and about a 10 minute job to change out.
Now you have eliminated any issue with bleeding. You know the master is good, and will know your bleeding method is working.
then go after the problem. Jim Bounds or Jim K will have that proportioning valve.
for what it is worth, my coach that was sitting for 10 years went like this:
first fall - bled the hell out of the brakes. stopped, but went to hell after a week. replaced the master, got it to stop poorly for a couple weekend trips.
year 2- checked all brakes, replaced front rubber lines, and one rear wheel cylinder. I installed sensitized booster. stopped what I thought was pretty good, then at some point later in the year something changed. Bled them a few more times, bought hupy's bleeder, thinking i was not getting all the air out, after all there is 20+ feet of brake lines. and then I wished I had that bleeder at year 1.
late in year 2, I ended up fighting some issues. Brakes seemed fine, but once in a while they worked poor. lots of bleeding, and adjusting and still not quite right. Would be good one minute, but not the next. so I replaced the proportioning valve per Jim Bounds instructions. that fixed that random poor braking.
early year 3, it seemed to be a little lacking on stopping power. I then I noticed the pads up front were looking thinner on inside, so replaced front calipers, and pads. Now it stops well, and have not had problems for a while.
We are in year 4, and now the front brake resivoir drops. So I am checking fluid every trip, It does drop fast at all. so now sometime before next year(year5) I will need go back an replace all the rear brakes cylinders and pads and everything on the back.
so that is my brake story for the past 4 years.
I have been getting good use out of my coach since then, and I probably did not have the cash to replace everything at once. but I sure spent a lot of time messing around.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257307 is a reply to message #257300] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 11:32 |
Otterwan
Messages: 946
Registered: July 2013
Location: Lynnwood (north of Seattl...
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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glenn2726 wrote on Thu, 31 July 2014 09:00Thanks for the replies..I have always bled brakes starting at the furthermost point first but the manual for the GMC states left front, right front, left middle, left rear, right middle then right rear. So figured would follow the manuals instructions. As it turns out I guess it didn't matter..lol..I'm getting ready to get new hoses and new calipers for the front and then try and get fluid after removing the hoses. That is the plan at the present. Since the right front brake was working then I would have thought I would have been able to get fluid through that line but so far unsuccessful at either side. If the proportioning valve is in the closed position should it bypass fluid or should I hold it in the open position? One previous brake repair thread said they had to hold it in the open position? Thanks, Glenn
Just because the right disk is shiny doesn't mean that the caliper is working. It could just as easily be stuck and applying constant pressure to the disk. That would explain why you could drain the old fluid but still not get any from the master cylinder.
1977 Birchaven, Lynnwood WA - "We may not be able to stop all evil in the world, but I know that how we treat one another is entirely up to us."
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| Re: Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257308 is a reply to message #257305] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 11:41 |
midlf
Messages: 2212
Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
Karma: 1
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lqqkatjon wrote on Thu, 31 July 2014 11:25
We are in year 4, and now the front brake resivoir drops. So I am checking fluid every trip, It does drop fast at all. so now sometime before next year(year5) I will need go back an replace all the rear brakes cylinders and pads and everything on the back.
so that is my brake story for the past 4 years.
I have been getting good use out of my coach since then, and I probably did not have the cash to replace everything at once. but I sure spent a lot of time messing around.
If you do not have any brake fluid leaking out of the rear backing plates then I suspect you have leaks in the brake lines themselves. Check for brake fluid at the line mounting clips on the frame. Don't ask why I know this.
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
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| Re: Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257310 is a reply to message #257289] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 12:02 |
glenn2726
Messages: 234
Registered: June 2014
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Thanks all, I'm still thinking about the brakes and all the other fixes this coach needs...and yes safety is at the top of the list, but also dependability. Since I've been unable to bleed the system I really don't know what problems the brake system has as yet. I'm going to check for leaks at the rear today and replace the front brake hoses and calipers. Then try bleeding the brakes again after repairs have been made. Really don't want to drive this tank without a safely working brake system again.
Glenn W
Topeka, KS
1974 GMC 26 ft. Color:Camel Interior:Canyon Land
Side Bath, Rear Sitting Area
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| Re: Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257311 is a reply to message #257289] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 12:02 |
77Royale
Messages: 461
Registered: June 2014
Location: Mid Michigan
Karma: 6
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I just finished a full brake job on mine, By full I mean everything from the master to the passenger wheel cylinder and all parts in between.
I took Dave Lenzi's advice and sourced some Nicopp Copper type lines. I sourced them locally from Advanced Auto parts. The lines are bit more expensive, but you can bend them where you need to as some of the bends are pretty tight 90s, and they wont rust:)
I did have to double flare some ends and fittings to the new prop valve and to the master, so that took some time. The ease of not kinking the steel lines was well worth the few extra dollars.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/brands/NiCopp
Also, if the master was dry, It most likely needs to be bench bled. If its been dry for long, some of the seals may have dried out? Not sure but for a few bucks, Id just replace it and hopefully take that piece out of the equation. At least there is some core value on the old one.
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan
[Updated on: Thu, 31 July 2014 12:11] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257312 is a reply to message #257289] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 12:08 |
glenn2726
Messages: 234
Registered: June 2014
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Hi Steve, thanks for the input..yes I'm going to inspect the lines today..I think I'm prepared for the worst...lol...I hate to say it but so far this is definitely a challenge with all the repairs I've made and still have to make..might be a while before the coach sees the road again...lol..Glenn
Glenn W
Topeka, KS
1974 GMC 26 ft. Color:Camel Interior:Canyon Land
Side Bath, Rear Sitting Area
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| Re: Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257334 is a reply to message #257314] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 16:30 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Here's another vote for replacing the combination valve. You can get a brass one from Jim B or Jim K. The old one is probably pretty gummed up by now. It's cheap insurance. Ideally, you should go through the whole system and replace everything, but you might be able to get by with just replacing things piecemeal if that is all your budget will allow. Just don't take any shortcuts. You want to be able to stop that 12,000 pound missile when you need to. That's why I went with the full Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm system on my coach. It will stop better and faster than most cars.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257346 is a reply to message #257293] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 17:45 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Damm links
http://www.machinesoflovinggrace.net/gmc/brakes/ComboValves.html
Erf
On Thursday, July 31, 2014, gene Fisher wrote:
> There is always a mod
> GOOD NEWS FOR GMC-ERS
>
> On Thursday, July 31, 2014, Carl Stouffer > wrote:
>
>> Here's another vote for replacing the combination valve. You can get a
>> brass one from Jim B or Jim K. The old one is probably pretty gummed up by
>> now. It's cheap insurance. Ideally, you should go through the whole
>> system and replace everything, but you might be able to get by with just
>> replacing things piecemeal if that is all your budget will allow. Just
>> don't take any shortcuts. You want to be able to stop that 12,000 pound
>> missile when you need to. That's why I went with the full Chuck Aulgur
>> Reaction Arm system on my coach. It will stop better and faster than most
>> cars.
>> --
>> Carl Stouffer
>> '75 ex Palm Beach
>> Tucson, AZ.
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>>
>
>
> --
> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
> -------
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/
> Alternator Protection Cable
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
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| Re: Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257381 is a reply to message #257289] |
Thu, 31 July 2014 22:28 |
glenn2726
Messages: 234
Registered: June 2014
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Thanks all for the great info. Here's my update...went out today and looked for leaks..didn't find any front or rear..tried to bleed rear brakes, went to furthest wheel on right rear, opened the bleeder screw..no fluid..tried bleeding, couldn't get any fluid to come out. Tried the wheel next to it..couldn't get the screw loose..so looks like a complete brake overhaul is in order to get this thing right. Hey Carl, I think I'll try and crack my proportioning valve open and see if there is any fluid in there..see why nothing is getting to any of the brakes.. Thanks, Glenn
Glenn W
Topeka, KS
1974 GMC 26 ft. Color:Camel Interior:Canyon Land
Side Bath, Rear Sitting Area
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257409 is a reply to message #257381] |
Fri, 01 August 2014 00:47 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Replace all of the moving and wear parts as well as the rubber lines. If that doesn't fix it all that's left is the hard lines and applied sells a complete pre bent stainless kit that fits perfect and makes it super simple. Only Orig parts left on mine are rear hard lines.
Save time and do calipers/prop alve/ master/rubber lines/ wheel cyl / pads. It's a perfect time since nothin works 😜Search the gmc net for the funky vice grip thread by Matt for loosening the crusty nuts without rounding them. Soak all connections with penetrant long before you start twisting.
My 2c
Todd Sullivan
Sully
77 royale
Seattle
> On Jul 31, 2014, at 8:28 PM, Glenn Whitt wrote:
>
> Thanks all for the great info. Here's my update...went out today and looked for leaks..didn't find any front or rear..tried to bleed rear brakes,
> went to furthest wheel on right rear, opened the bleeder screw..no fluid..tried bleeding, couldn't get any fluid to come out. Tried the wheel next to
> it..couldn't get the screw loose..so looks like a complete brake overhaul is in order to get this thing right. Hey Carl, I think I'll try and crack my
> proportioning valve open and see if there is any fluid in there..see why nothing is getting to any of the brakes.. Thanks, Glenn
> --
> Glenn W
> Topeka, KS
> 1974 GMC 26 ft. Color:Camel Interior:Canyon Land
> Side Bath, Rear Sitting Area
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Brake Bleeding Problem [message #257444 is a reply to message #257409] |
Fri, 01 August 2014 13:35 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Glenn,
Here is the link to the vise-grip that is designed for brake line repair. They make a number of sizes that you can purchase. I have rounded up the three popular sizes from Amazon and they are available from other sources too. I have the 4LW, 7LW & 10LW sizes and they work slick, even better than the tubing wrenches that I have used in the past. They do come in bigger sizes, but these sizes work best for brakes.
or
http://goo.gl/UkGY5P
or
http://amzn.to/1tDtBje
or
http://amzn.to/1u7q2PN
JR Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMC Eastern States
GMCMHI
78 GMC Buskirk 30’ Stretch
1975 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan
On Aug 1, 2014, at 1:47 AM, Todd Sullivan wrote:
> Replace all of the moving and wear parts as well as the rubber lines. If that doesn't fix it all that's left is the hard lines and applied sells a complete pre bent stainless kit that fits perfect and makes it super simple. Only Orig parts left on mine are rear hard lines.
>
> Save time and do calipers/prop alve/ master/rubber lines/ wheel cyl / pads. It's a perfect time since nothin works 😜Search the gmc net for the funky vice grip thread by Matt for loosening the crusty nuts without rounding them. Soak all connections with penetrant long before you start twisting.
>
> My 2c
>
> Todd Sullivan
>
> Sully
> 77 royale
> Seattle
>
>> On Jul 31, 2014, at 8:28 PM, Glenn Whitt wrote:
>>
>> Thanks all for the great info. Here's my update...went out today and looked for leaks..didn't find any front or rear..tried to bleed rear brakes,
>> went to furthest wheel on right rear, opened the bleeder screw..no fluid..tried bleeding, couldn't get any fluid to come out. Tried the wheel next to
>> it..couldn't get the screw loose..so looks like a complete brake overhaul is in order to get this thing right. Hey Carl, I think I'll try and crack my
>> proportioning valve open and see if there is any fluid in there..see why nothing is getting to any of the brakes.. Thanks, Glenn
>> --
>> Glenn W
>> Topeka, KS
>> 1974 GMC 26 ft. Color:Camel Interior:Canyon Land
>> Side Bath, Rear Sitting Area
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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