I am second guessing you steering wheel play diagnosis.

Have you thoroughly looked at the steering shaft slip joint?

It is located directly above the steering box. It is common for GMCs to wear the blue plastic stuff on the inside shaft and causing the symptom you are describing. With the steering wheel unlocked grab the collar in one hand and the shaft in the other. Try to rotate the shaft by hand looking for any play in that joint. I few thousandths play here translates to an inch or two play at the steering wheel.

Just try it. I had .005" wink in it and that gave me about 1.5" play at the wheel. I fashioned some thin strips of .005" brass shim stock and slipped them into the joint. That took care of my wheel play. Most people just replace it.

So, brakes are done, wheels are polished, awning, water pump fixed, etc, etc.

My 2 bigger issues now are the oil cooler lines, and the 2-3 inches of play in the steering wheel.


I posted a picture of the oil lines in an earlier post, just so everyone knows what the photo was of I will post it again.

That play in the wheel is definitely the steering box, as I had Tina rock the wheel side to side and the pitman arm did not move.

Question #1. Where do I source new oil cooler lines.....?

Question #2. Is there a way to adjust the steering box without having to send it out for rebuild.....?



Thanks Guys!!

Jared

Everyone here will pee and yell and encourage you to spend tons of money and buy a new gear from a trusted vendor, but there is a work around if you are carefull. These gears simply do not wear out. I have worked with GM steering gears since about 1974 so try this. Almost all of the time the axial adjustment is not at fault. If you locate the aluminum side cover on the gear you will see a locknut and an allen adjustment screw. This adjustment is the one that is usually the cause of looseness on center. I would loosen the locknut while holding the center allen screw stationary. Then gently turn the screw clockwise while grabbing the input shaft and an rotating it by hand back and forth. Adjust to the point till you gently feel resistance and thighten the lock nut while holding the allen adjusting screw. If you have any doubt, go in small incremnents. If you go too far you will have friction in the gear and you can back off slightly. The advantage of this approach is that you won't need to remove the gear and go through complicated on center location and adjustment. don't spend hundreds of dollars untill all else fails.

Ken Burton wrote on Wed, 25 June 2014 17:09

Just try it. I had .005" wink in it and that gave me about 1.5" play at the wheel. I fashioned some thin strips of .005" brass shim stock and slipped them into the joint. That took care of my wheel play. Most people just replace it.

I will take a closer look...... a little intrigued.........

Jared

lotsofspareparts wrote on Tue, 24 June 2014 20:11

So, brakes are done, wheels are polished, awning, water pump fixed, etc, etc.

My 2 bigger issues now are the oil cooler lines, and the 2-3 inches of play in the steering wheel.


I posted a picture of the oil lines in an earlier post, just so everyone knows what the photo was of I will post it again.

That play in the wheel is definitely the steering box, as I had Tina rock the wheel side to side and the pitman arm did not move.

Question #1. Where do I source new oil cooler lines.....?

Question #2. Is there a way to adjust the steering box without having to send it out for rebuild.....?



Thanks Guys!!

Jared

Everyone here will pee and yell and encourage you to spend tons of money and buy a new gear from a trusted vendor, but there is a work around if you are carefull. These gears simply do not wear out. I have worked with GM steering gears since about 1974 so try this. Almost all of the time the axial adjustment is not at fault. If you locate the aluminum side cover on the gear you will see a locknut and an allen adjustment screw. This adjustment is the one that is usually the cause of looseness on center. I would loosen the locknut while holding the center allen screw stationary. Then gently turn the screw clockwise while grabbing the input shaft and an rotating it by hand back and forth. Adjust to the point till you gently feel resistance and thighten the lock nut while holding the allen adjusting screw. If you have any doubt, go in small incremnents. If you go too far you will have friction in the gear and you can back off slightly. The advantage of this approach is that you won't need to remove the gear and go through complicated on center location and adjustment. don't spend hundreds of dollars untill all else fails.