Use a pressure bleeder.
Jim Hupy


On Thu, May 29, 2014 at 4:04 PM, Les Burt wrote:

> I just apply some grease to the bleeder threads to prevent the slight air
> leakage when using the vaccum pump method.
>
> As far as the checkvalve type bleeder screws, they won't solve the air
> leak past the threads as the check valve is inside the screw. The theory
> behind them is that when using the pedal pump method, you reduce the risk
> of air being sucked back into the system. I believe I even read that they
> recommend sealing the threads on those check valve bleeders with grease or
> a semi-soft paste sealant.
>
> Les Burt
> Montreal
> 1975 Eleganza 26ft
> A work in Progress
>
>
>
> On May 29, 2014, at 6:20 PM, "Tom Whitton"
> wrote:
>
> I am flushing the 10-year old brake fluid from the system and bleeding the
> air out using a pistol-grip vacuum bleeder. As anyone who has attempted
> this knows, it is not easy to get all the air out. I believe the bleeder
> valves now on my coach are a straight-through design. It appears to me
> that there is a possibility of introducing air into the system when the
> valve is open, essentially through the threads. There is another bleeder
> valve design that has a spring loaded ball inside that could help prevent
> air being introduced while the valve is open. What do you guys think? If
> one design is better than another now would be the time to make the change.
> I'm building a pressure bleeder at the moment in the hope of finally doing
> a good job of getting the air out. Frankly, I'm not sure if I've ever had
> all the air out of the system in the 13-years I've owned the coach.
>
> Appreciate thoughts on which bleeder valve design is best?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Whitton
> 26 foot updated GMC
> Paducah, KY
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist

I had the same problem last year with my bleeder valves sucking small amounts of air.
I believe it was Matt C. that suggested to wrap plumbers tape on the bleeder screw threads. That worked for me.
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach

Johnny,

I'm sorry but I'm going to disagree with this statement "total PIA to get hooked up." I have used Jim's bleeder many times and I
agree the FIRST time was a PITA, however, after I did it a few times and developed a technique it's a piece of cake. I'll be
flushing the brake fluid in Double Trouble and I'll time the process from start to stop and report how long it took.

There is another benefit for this bleeder, you and fill it with enough fluid to flush the complete brake system. The vacuum bleeder
that HF sells comes with a bottle that you stand up in the M/C to keep filling it but it won't work in a GMC. You have to rig up
something to keep filling the M/C as you suck fluid out of each wheel cylinder / caliper.

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: Johnny Bridges

Having done all three ways on my coach, pressure and suction are both quicker/easier than pump and hold. As infrequently as I blee
brakes, the pistol grip suction pump got the nod. George Z lent me his Hupy bleeder for the reaction arm install because I replaced
wheel cylinders as well. It works great, is a total PIA to get hooked up... not due to the bleeder, it's just crowded around the
MC.

--johnny


_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist