Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] The new Huber torsion Bar
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| Re: [GMCnet] The new Huber torsion Bar [message #249814 is a reply to message #249812] |
Thu, 15 May 2014 16:00   |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Peter,
Just a thought: Would it complicate the situation too much to offer
standard deflection torsion bars as well as the 19% stronger ones? Seems
to me there are probably more folks with weak bars than wanting stronger
ones.
Another idea: Without measuring, I got the impression from George's TB's
that the hex on each end is the same length as OEM. Is there any reason
not to extend that area, especially on your stronger bars? When I received
a "blown out" lower A-arm, it appeared to me that the hex rests in the
weakest area of the socket. If the hex was another 1"-1.5" longer, it
would receive additional support from the strongest area of the socket --
where it passes through the A-arm.
AFAIK, I don't need to replace the TB's in my little 23', but thank you for
your efforts anyway.
Ken H.
On Thu, May 15, 2014 at 3:31 PM, Peter wrote:
> Hi you all,
>
> Wow I see so many GMCers who installed the new Torsion Bar set and
> everybody
> is elated and happy with the product. I liked all the comments especially
> George Zhookoff who installed his Torsion Bars in Bean Station.
>
> I am trying to put together another batch of say 50 Torsion Bar sets. The
> cost of one set of Torsion Bars will be around $ 800.00 plus shipping. I
> am
> looking forward to your feedback of interest.
>
> So please let me know via my direct email if you would like to be a
> committed buyer.
>
> I will start and finance the 50 Torsion Bar sets only if I have at least 30
> prospective orders on hand. So let's give it some time and see what comes
> of
> it. I also might share this with a GMC partner, who will do the work of
> collecting the money and do the shipping etc.
>
>
>
> Best Regards
>
> Peter D. Huber
>
> GMC Royale 1978 403
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] The new Huber torsion Bar [message #249988 is a reply to message #249814] |
Sat, 17 May 2014 22:49 |
cbryan
Messages: 451
Registered: May 2012
Location: Ennis, Texas
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Ken,
I am going to copy a complete message you posted in December, 2011, about the sockets. Those who did move their bars' seating area should have some experience to report. I am noting you made the same point with reference to the first one-ton conversions for the front end. Hope my quoting you makes sense in this context. I have not installed my new stronger torsion bars yet, and wonder if I should move the mounting two inches rearward on the #4 crossmember.
"At another member's suggestion, I called dale fromm this morning. Seems he
blew out BOTH TB sockets a few years back. Wound up using 3" longer shock
absorbers to raise the ride height enough to stop hitting the pavement with
his transmission pan (the front end DOES go low when the TB's let go).
Made it from Alabama to Frankenmuth, MI without breaking the shock mounts
off, which surprised me.
He repaired the sockets by cutting the A-arm stampings out of the way,
heating and hammering the eruptions back into place, and welding 3/8"
straps down all of the flats. Most ingeniously, and simply, he move the #4
cross member aft 2" and put 2" spacers inside the torsion bar sockets.
That put the 1-1/8" hex in the unworn area of the socket, which is also in
in the area where the A-arm bracket reinforces the socket. He did say that
his sockets were worn where the hexes were seated -- I can't tell that in
the arm I have.
I think moving the cross member and pork chops aft is a great idea -- the
fresh area of the socket, with the surrounding bracket, should be the
strongest part of the socket anyway. The spacer is to ensure that the
torsion bar doesn't shift forward and work its way out of the pork chop.
It's a mod that anyone can do easily with minimum effort. If dale had
thought of it while he was stranded, he could have driven home with the
problem corrected. I think that fix alone would provide a longer life than
the original arrangement had, with no other modification.
JMHO,"
Signed by Ken H in Dec 2011.
Carey from Ennis, Texas
78 Royale, 500 Cadillac, Rance Baxter EFI.
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| Re: [GMCnet] The new Huber torsion Bar [message #249989 is a reply to message #249988] |
Sat, 17 May 2014 23:27 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Carey,
You could reinforce the lower control arms as per Steve Fergusons procedures; I would suggest you review the photo albums below:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3077-eldo-control-arm-remanufacture.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5058-lower-control-arm-reinforcements.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4972-lower-control-arm-reinforcement.html
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Carey Bryan
Ken,
I am going to copy a complete message you posted in December, 2011, about the sockets. Those who did move their bars' seating area
should have some
experience to report. I am noting you made the same point with reference to the first one-ton conversions for the front end. Hope
my quoting you
makes sense in this context. I have not installed my new stronger torsion bars yet, and wonder if I should move the mounting two
inches rearward on
the #4 crossmember.
"At another member's suggestion, I called dale fromm this morning. Seems he
blew out BOTH TB sockets a few years back. Wound up using 3" longer shock
absorbers to raise the ride height enough to stop hitting the pavement with
his transmission pan (the front end DOES go low when the TB's let go).
Made it from Alabama to Frankenmuth, MI without breaking the shock mounts
off, which surprised me.
He repaired the sockets by cutting the A-arm stampings out of the way,
heating and hammering the eruptions back into place, and welding 3/8"
straps down all of the flats. Most ingeniously, and simply, he move the #4
cross member aft 2" and put 2" spacers inside the torsion bar sockets.
That put the 1-1/8" hex in the unworn area of the socket, which is also in
in the area where the A-arm bracket reinforces the socket. He did say that
his sockets were worn where the hexes were seated -- I can't tell that in
the arm I have.
I think moving the cross member and pork chops aft is a great idea -- the
fresh area of the socket, with the surrounding bracket, should be the
strongest part of the socket anyway. The spacer is to ensure that the
torsion bar doesn't shift forward and work its way out of the pork chop.
It's a mod that anyone can do easily with minimum effort. If dale had
thought of it while he was stranded, he could have driven home with the
problem corrected. I think that fix alone would provide a longer life than
the original arrangement had, with no other modification.
JMHO,"
Signed by Ken H in Dec 2011.
--
Carey
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] The new Huber torsion Bar [message #249998 is a reply to message #249988] |
Sun, 18 May 2014 06:01 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Carey,
Thanks for reposting that. I'm interested to hear others experiences and
comments about that topic. I've been discussing with Peter the possibility
of extending the front hex aft on any future TB production so that the
reinforced area of the socket is utilized. It's a mystery to me as to why
GMC didn't do that from the start -- perhaps someone has an answer.
Ken H.
On Sat, May 17, 2014 at 11:49 PM, Carey Bryan wrote:
> Ken,
>
> I am going to copy a complete message you posted in December, 2011, about
> the sockets. Those who did move their bars' seating area should have some
> experience to report. I am noting you made the same point with reference
> to the first one-ton conversions for the front end. Hope my quoting you
> makes sense in this context. I have not installed my new strongertorsion bars yet, and wonder if I should move the mounting two inches
> rearward on
> the #4 crossmember.
>
> "At another member's suggestion, I called dale fromm this morning. Seems
> he
> blew out BOTH TB sockets a few years back. Wound up using 3" longer shock
> absorbers to raise the ride height enough to stop hitting the pavement
> with
> his transmission pan (the front end DOES go low when the TB's let go).
> Made it from Alabama to Frankenmuth, MI without breaking the shock mounts
> off, which surprised me.
>
> He repaired the sockets by cutting the A-arm stampings out of the way,
> heating and hammering the eruptions back into place, and welding 3/8"
> straps down all of the flats. Most ingeniously, and simply, he move the #4
> cross member aft 2" and put 2" spacers inside the torsion bar sockets.
> That put the 1-1/8" hex in the unworn area of the socket, which is also in
> in the area where the A-arm bracket reinforces the socket. He did say that
> his sockets were worn where the hexes were seated -- I can't tell that in
> the arm I have.
>
> I think moving the cross member and pork chops aft is a great idea -- the
> fresh area of the socket, with the surrounding bracket, should be the
> strongest part of the socket anyway. The spacer is to ensure that the
> torsion bar doesn't shift forward and work its way out of the pork chop.
> It's a mod that anyone can do easily with minimum effort. If dale had
> thought of it while he was stranded, he could have driven home with the
> problem corrected. I think that fix alone would provide a longer life than
> the original arrangement had, with no other modification.
>
> JMHO,"
>
> Signed by Ken H in Dec 2011.
>
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GMCnet mailing list
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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