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Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247453] Mon, 14 April 2014 21:44 Go to next message
quadracerx1 is currently offline  quadracerx1   United States
Messages: 207
Registered: April 2013
Location: Puyallup, Washington
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Senior Member
Hey Guys I need some help here....

A friend of mine pulled both fuel tanks from my coach. 4 months ago and it is up on jack stands waiting to be finished.

I didn't take them out, so I'm not sure exactly how they go back in?

I'm not even sure I have all the fasteners?

I am fairly handy mechanically but would love some help re-installing them since my friend wont be back for at least another 3-4 weeks.

So I would pay someone familiar with this job specifically, to help me do it or just do the job?

I live in Graham, WA.

Thanks again,

Steve


75 26' GMC Glenbrook Puyallup, Washington
Re: Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247463 is a reply to message #247453] Tue, 15 April 2014 05:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Joe Weir is currently offline  Joe Weir   United States
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Location: Columbia, SC
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Steve,

3 bolts, and 2 nuts, hold each tank in.

On the front there are 3 that bolt into the L shaped bracket on the tank, through the frame cross member.

The back of the tank is suspended from the frame cross member by 2 threaded hooks that go through the holes in the tank straps. The nuts hold the tank straps to the threaded rods.

I am currently contemplating that same task as soon as I replace the brake hard lines, that started weeping brake fluid when I wiped the dirt off of them. So, I too would like to know any tips for re-mounting with rubber lines, IE: put 1/2" fill connector and elbow on the hard fill line first, or on the tank first, etc.

It shouldn't be that hard, but I suspect there is a trick or two that makes it less painful. I want to say there are some nuggets of wisdom in the archives on the subject.

Good luck


76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center... Columbia, SC.
Re: Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247464 is a reply to message #247453] Tue, 15 April 2014 05:49 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Joe Weir is currently offline  Joe Weir   United States
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Registered: February 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
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To be more clear on the fasteners:

You need to have six ~1" bolts that will thread into the front bracket on the tanks.

You will also need four threaded hooks, about 6" in length. The hook part is actually more like a single 110 degree bend about 2" from the non-threaded end of the rod, and the bolts and washers to go on the threaded end to capture the tank straps.


76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center... Columbia, SC.
Re: Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247466 is a reply to message #247453] Tue, 15 April 2014 06:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
SeanKidd is currently offline  SeanKidd   United States
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Having just completed this...I was on my back with minimal clearance

Rear tank first, on a large piece of cardboard to protect your new paint, connect your sender wires and hoses, vent is the outer line, the line closest to the center is the supply.
Don't forget to add about 8' of 1/4" to the generator port. Have your fill couplings attached to tank and tight, these are tough to tighten with tank in place.
Install front tank vapor line, a piece of 5/16" line above crossmember and feed it to separator along with rear tank vapor, these get tee'd together and go to the bottom port of the separator in the wheel well.

Slide tank under the coach. Feed onan line through frame
Lift rear of tank and install "J" hook into tank strap, the little hook on the strap can rest on the frame temporarily.
Lift front of tank and slide 4x4 or floor jack under tank. While raising tank, align fill tube...be sure your clamps are already there. continue raising tank.
Install bolts.
Front tank is same, but vapor line needs to be connected to tank after you slide it under coach, fill Tee coupler is much more difficult.
Tighten fill lines...I had my fill lines out, painted. (Type 1 filler with smaller sections of pipe) I used pieces of a bicycle tube around the filler where the hose clamp attaches to the holder. Make sure everything is tight, tie wrap all your air hoses and fuel lines ensuring nothing will rub from vibration.JWID



Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.
Colonial Travelers

[Updated on: Tue, 15 April 2014 07:16]

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Re: [GMCnet] Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247477 is a reply to message #247453] Tue, 15 April 2014 09:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
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Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
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G'day Steve,

If you don't have copies of the Maintenance Manual (MM) X-7525 and Parts Book (PB) 78Z click on the link below and download them:

http://www.bdub.net/factory-manuals.html

PB 78Z has an Illustrated Parts Breakdown of the fuel tanks on page 12-2 & 3 which shows the tanks all the attaching hardware and
lines.

MM X-7525 Section 8 - Fuel Tank and Exhaust has line drawings and photographs that will help you perform this task.

Also there are LOTS of photographs on the PhotoSite just do a search for Fuel and or Tanks and or Gas and I'm sure you'll find all
you need to know.

Regards,
Rob M.
.
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve

Hey Guys I need some help here....

A friend of mine pulled both fuel tanks from my coach. 4 months ago and it is up on jack stands waiting to be finished.

I didn't take them out, so I'm not sure exactly how they go back in?

I'm not even sure I have all the fasteners?

I am fairly handy mechanically but would love some help re-installing them since my friend wont be back for at least another 3-4
weeks.

So I would pay someone familiar with this job specifically, to help me do it or just do the job?

I live in Graham, WA.

Thanks again,

Steve

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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247486 is a reply to message #247453] Tue, 15 April 2014 10:48 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Carl S. is currently offline  Carl S.   United States
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Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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I did this several years ago. Some here would say I did it "wrong" because I used mostly new rubber barrier hose, with 'polyarmor' on top of the tanks only. Hopefully this photo album will be helpful:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5520-gas-tank-fuel-line-project-6-10.html

Not a real difficult job at all.


Carl Stouffer '75 ex Palm Beach Tucson, AZ. Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
Re: Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247487 is a reply to message #247453] Tue, 15 April 2014 10:50 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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Location: S.E. Michigan
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Steve,

If you get the referenced publications, you will get a good idea how easy this really is. (PITA Yes, but not actually difficult.)
This from a guy that has had is fuel tanks down more times than should have happened.

I do have two pieces of advice that you may find worthwhile.

First, it is far easier to put the fill piping back in place when the tanks are installed than it is to hit the connections while jugging the tanks back into place. So, take down that plumbing now if it is there and put it back later.

Second, (and last from me) is get a set of the Hazard Fright cargo straps are perpetually in sale at about 10$ for a set of 4. With a little thinking, you will see that these can do a great job of lifting and supporting the tanks and allowing you free access to the area under the tanks.

Too bad I am not in striking range, I could make this go real easily. You are in the right place to get some help, but you still might grab a copy of the GMC Assist list (aka Black List) and call a few local people to find if one has experience with this operation.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247543 is a reply to message #247453] Tue, 15 April 2014 23:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
quadracerx1 is currently offline  quadracerx1   United States
Messages: 207
Registered: April 2013
Location: Puyallup, Washington
Karma: 1
Senior Member
I think I may have found someone to help me with this project!!

How long should it take someone familiar with the GMC?

I have a couple of drawings for fuel line routing and fuel vent routing by Rick Williams I cant find them online? But I have them printed out...

It calls for:

1/2" line for the filler tube vent to the steel tube along the frame rail

1/4" Line for the Onan

And 3/8" line everywhere else

Hope that's right?

Which port is vent and which is fuel on the senders?

Thanks for all the help!

Steve


75 26' GMC Glenbrook Puyallup, Washington
Re: [GMCnet] Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247545 is a reply to message #247543] Tue, 15 April 2014 23:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
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Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
Senior Member
Steve,

I'm not going to comment on how long it should take to do this job as there are too many variables.

As far as finding drawings goes, I just logged into the PhotoSite:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/

Scrolled down to the Search block and entered "Fuel" and 447 photos popped up. I'm, sure you can find what you want looking through
those photos.

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Steve

I think I may have found someone to help me with this project!!

How long should it take someone familiar with the GMC?

I have a couple of drawings for fuel line routing and fuel vent routing by Rick Williams I cant find them online? But I have them
printed out...

It calls for:

1/2" line for the filler tube vent to the steel tube along the frame rail

1/4" Line for the Onan

And 3/8" line everywhere else

Hope that's right?

Which port is vent and which is fuel on the senders?

Thanks for all the help!

Steve
--
75 26' GMC Glenbrook
75 26' GMC Elaganza "The Parts Coach"

Puyallup, Washington
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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247547 is a reply to message #247543] Tue, 15 April 2014 23:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jimk is currently offline  jimk   United States
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22' of 3/8
33' of 5/16
11' of 1/4
If you have a coachman, you'll need more of the 1/4.
While your at it, change the fuel selector valve, as the ethanol has sarted
on the rubber.
Replace fuel pump if older than 4 years, again ethanol.



On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 9:02 PM, Steve <quadracerx@aol.com> wrote:

>
>
> I think I may have found someone to help me with this project!!
>
> How long should it take someone familiar with the GMC?
>
> I have a couple of drawings for fuel line routing and fuel vent routing by
> Rick Williams I cant find them online? But I have them printed out...
>
> It calls for:
>
> 1/2" line for the filler tube vent to the steel tube along the frame rail
>
> 1/4" Line for the Onan
>
> And 3/8" line everywhere else
>
> Hope that's right?
>
> Which port is vent and which is fuel on the senders?
>
> Thanks for all the help!
>
> Steve
> --
> 75 26' GMC Glenbrook
> 75 26' GMC Elaganza "The Parts Coach"
>
> Puyallup, Washington
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>



--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
Re: Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247575 is a reply to message #247543] Wed, 16 April 2014 08:36 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
Senior Member
quadracerx1 wrote on Wed, 16 April 2014 00:02

I think I may have found someone to help me with this project!!
How long should it take someone familiar with the GMC?
I have a couple of drawings for fuel line routing and fuel vent routing by Rick Williams I cant find them online? But I have them printed out...
It calls for:
1/2" line for the filler tube vent to the steel tube along the frame rail
1/4" Line for the Onan
And 3/8" line everywhere else
Hope that's right?
Which port is vent and which is fuel on the senders?
Thanks for all the help!
Steve

Steve,
Glad you have found a friend.
It should only take the two of you a morning to put the tanks back up. The first one will teach you enough so the second goes real fast.
I can't find my pictures, but if you take a screwdriver and a light hammer and tap the ears on the retainer, you can get the sending unit out easily. Then you can mark which is the fuel and which is the vent. Also, if the O-ring in there has not been replaced, this is a good time. They are a common part and not expensive.

As I recall, the vent is on the right and the draw on the left as
you look into the barbs.

The vapor vents that go to the left wheel well are 5/16.

A Suggestion: Run the two fill vent lines as far forward and as high as you can. Then T them together to go up to the fill neck. This seems to be less important on a 26, but it does help filling go faster without random shut-offs. You can use the same T if it survives. Mine didn't.

Believe JimK about the selector valve. The bitch about it is that there is no exact replacement, so what you put in will be upside down and backwards from the old one. So, solder a ground wire onto one of the mounting ears and screw it to the underside of the coach floor.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247585 is a reply to message #247453] Wed, 16 April 2014 09:17 Go to previous messageGo to next message
quadracerx1 is currently offline  quadracerx1   United States
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Registered: April 2013
Location: Puyallup, Washington
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So is all of the vent line 5/16"?

Im thinking of adding a "pusher" electric pump to augment the factory mechanical pump and maybe a filter too? I see a lot of people using the Carter 4070? Will it overpower the mechanical?

Thanks again, we will try to get the tanks put in by next Wed. wish me luck....

Again, thanks for all the help... On the selector valve, is that something I can do after the tanks are in? Or is it best to do now?

Steve


75 26' GMC Glenbrook Puyallup, Washington
Re: Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247586 is a reply to message #247585] Wed, 16 April 2014 09:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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quadracerx1 wrote on Wed, 16 April 2014 10:17

So is all of the vent line 5/16"?

Im thinking of adding a "pusher" electric pump to augment the factory mechanical pump and maybe a filter too? I see a lot of people using the Carter 4070? Will it overpower the mechanical?

Thanks again, we will try to get the tanks put in by next Wed. wish me luck....

Again, thanks for all the help... On the selector valve, is that something I can do after the tanks are in? Or is it best to do now?

Steve

Steve,

Only the vapor vent (not the fill vent) are 5/16. Those are the lines that come out of the tank top and not the sender/pickup.

I cannot help about the 4070.

The selector valve can be done later, but it will want to mount over (under from your POV) the fill pipe and can be a real PITA to deal with when the system is intact.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247591 is a reply to message #247453] Wed, 16 April 2014 09:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
quadracerx1 is currently offline  quadracerx1   United States
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Cool... I found the .pdf file that has the drawings I am trying to use:

http://gmcws.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/In-tank-Fuel-Pump-seminar.pdf

The only difference I see is that the drawings show using 3/8" line for the tank venting?

Could I use 3/8" that way 2 rolls will do it?

Where should I locate the electric aux. pump?

Thanks,

Steve


75 26' GMC Glenbrook Puyallup, Washington
Re: Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247628 is a reply to message #247591] Wed, 16 April 2014 13:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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Location: S.E. Michigan
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quadracerx1 wrote on Wed, 16 April 2014 10:37

Cool... I found the .pdf file that has the drawings I am trying to use:

http://gmcws.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/In-tank-Fuel-Pump-seminar.pdf

The only difference I see is that the drawings show using 3/8" line for the tank venting?

Could I use 3/8" that way 2 rolls will do it?

Where should I locate the electric aux. pump?

Thanks,

Steve

Steve,

The fuel tanks have 2 different vents....

The vent that is Teed and then goes to the valve in the left rear wheel well is the vapor vent. It is only to allow expanding fuel vapor to exit the fuel tank through the carbon canisters and allow air to enter the system as fuel is withdrawn. That line is 5/16.

The vent in the sender/pick-up is the fill vent. That is the vent that leads to the tee by the forward (auxiliary) tank fill connection and then goes to 1/2" and forward and up to the fill neck.

It has been suggested that the pump be immediately forward of the selector valve that way the pump can pull from either tank.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: [GMCnet] Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247643 is a reply to message #247628] Wed, 16 April 2014 18:23 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
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Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Steve,

It has also been suggested that the both 3/8 vent lines to the fuel filler neck be extended up as close to the 1/2" hard line at the
filler neck. This helps vent the system quicker and stops the gurgling and burping.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/aa-miscellaneous-photos/p51372-fuel-tank-vent-mod.html

BTW Emery's presentation uses two in tank fuel pumps.

At the risk of confusing you regarding where to install an electric fuel pump you can install a small Facet pumps below in the line
that comes from the Aux tank to the selector valve. Wire it to the selector valve. When you switch to AUX the pump comes on and
pressurizes the inlet of the mechanical fuel pump. I've used it for the past three years and it works very well.

DOWNSIDE: if you have a fuel pump with a weak diaphragm it is possible that the pressure from this pump could tear it and fill the
crankcase with fuel.

12 VOLT FACET CUBE FUEL PUMPS

PART #: 40104
MIN - MAX PSI: 1.5 - 4.0
GPH: 25
INLET/OUTLET THREAD SIZE: 1/8-27 NPT
MIN. DRY LIFT: 12"
CHECK VALVE: NO

It is also a good idea to install a fuel filter in the rubber line that attaches the steel line attached to the front cross member
to the mechanical fuel pump inlet.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/aa-miscellaneous-photos/p44268-metal-fuel-filter.html

This keeps crap out of the Q-jet filter which is a PITA to R&R.

Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426


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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247644 is a reply to message #247643] Wed, 16 April 2014 18:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Joe Weir is currently offline  Joe Weir   United States
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Location: Columbia, SC
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USAussie wrote on Wed, 16 April 2014 18:23


... you can install a small Facet pumps below in the line that comes from the Aux tank to the selector valve. Wire it to the selector valve. When you switch to AUX the pump comes on and pressurizes the inlet of the mechanical fuel pump...



This was done by the PO in my Birch. Was quite confusing at first with the t-ed line for the Onan on the same circuit, and all of it wire-tied in place with a rats nest of loose wires.

Sadly, I did not get nearly enough seat time to render judgement, I'll defer to Rob on that. Though in the 60 miles I managed to go before the rod knock, I never once had vapor lock...so there is that... Very Happy

On another note, I have seen many refer to the tank vent as 1/2" but on mine it is 3/8", the same size as the fuel feed. Was this a change on post 75 tanks, or do I have modded pickups?


76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center... Columbia, SC.
Re: [GMCnet] Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247652 is a reply to message #247644] Wed, 16 April 2014 19:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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Joe Weir wrote on Wed, 16 April 2014 19:43

<snip>
On another note, I have seen many refer to the tank vent as 1/2" but on mine it is 3/8", the same size as the fuel feed. Was this a change on post 75 tanks, or do I have modded pickups?

On most that I have seen, the tank - fill vent is 3/8 to the T and 1/2 from the T to the fill neck (under the driver's left elbow). That T is the one that I moved up to under the cad floor and it made an amazing difference in the capability to put fuel in the tanks.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: [GMCnet] Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247662 is a reply to message #247652] Wed, 16 April 2014 20:48 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Joe Weir is currently offline  Joe Weir   United States
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Matt Colie wrote on Wed, 16 April 2014 19:18


On most that I have seen, the tank - fill vent is 3/8 to the T and 1/2 from the T to the fill neck (under the driver's left elbow). That T is the one that I moved up to under the cad floor and it made an amazing difference in the capability to put fuel in the tanks.

Matt



Ah, ok, thanks. That makes sense. I have not messed with the vent line at the fill neck yet.


76 Birchaven - "Wicked Mistress" - New engine, trans, alum radiator, brakes, Sully airbags, fuel lines, seats, adult beverage center... those Coachmen guys were really thinking about us second hand owners by including that beverage center... Columbia, SC.
Re: Fuel Tank Re-install... [message #247758 is a reply to message #247453] Thu, 17 April 2014 18:15 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
quadracerx1 is currently offline  quadracerx1   United States
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Location: Puyallup, Washington
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Senior Member
I'm trying to find a complete color coded diagram for the fuel lines and vent system. I looked in the manual and got even more confused...LOL

1) Anyone know of a good accurate diagram?

2) Also, has anyone used this style of tubing:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/159236/10002/-1?parentProductId=2344009

Reason I ask is, my coach is carbureted now but I might elect to go to Fuel Injection in the future. So I would like to do the lines once. With this nylon high pressure stuff if it will work?

I am also going to use a Carter 7040 pump and a marine style fuel filter with replaceable elements.

3) Should it go before the selector valve?

Thanks, again for everything you guys do...

Steve


75 26' GMC Glenbrook Puyallup, Washington

[Updated on: Thu, 17 April 2014 18:16]

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