| Body/Frame Pads - Insulators [message #246353] |
Fri, 04 April 2014 06:32  |
mickey szilagyi
Messages: 273
Registered: January 2013
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
We're planning on replacing and more importantly putting in missing frame/body pads this weekend and we had a closer look at the following diagram:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=14837
It looks like pads go where the cross frames meet the side frames. In the diagram the 4th set of pads from the rear of the coach look to be double. Why are two shown in the diagram? Are they doubled up one on top of each other or side by side?
Any help on this is greatly appreciated. And if there is a better diagram, illustration or images of the pads proper location we'd appreciate having them. We already have the pads and are planning to glue them in place. We've also read what we could find on how to jack up the body from the frame. Any special tricks or hints are welcome as well.
Thanks for your help,
Mickey
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
|
|
|
|
| Re: Body/Frame Pads - Insulators [message #246445 is a reply to message #246353] |
Sat, 05 April 2014 09:12  |
pzerkel
Messages: 212
Registered: September 2007
Location: Salisbury, IL
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
The double pads are stacked, they go under the rear bogies. When I did this virtually every bolt was spinning when I tried to remove the nut. If you could get access to the bolts from the floor side you could deal with it that way, but that was going to entail removing a LOT of furniture. What I did was use a nut splitter to get the nuts off, then ran a thread chaser up the bolt, and finally installed new nuts. I also used a Dremel to cut a slot in the bottom of the bolts, so that I could hold them from the bottom with a flat blade screwdriver while I tightened the nuts. On many of the bolts there was not enough room to get a nut splitter on the nut, what I did ( which others May not recommend) was to cut away about a 1" x 2" area from the sheet metal and insulation to get just enough room for the splitter. I used a Dremel tool cutter for the sheet metal and a utility knife for the insulation. I always meant to go back with some spray foam and some aluminum tape to patch the areas, but never got around to it.
The bolts on the rear bumper were problematic, because of their large size I did Not want to use a nut splitter. I could not get them to budge with a 1/2" breaker bar. I was finally successful with an impact wrench. I did have the interior out of the rear of my coach, so for those I was able to have a helper put a wrench in the top of the bolt while I tightened from below.
I have a set of ramps I made from plans on the photo site, I used those to get the rear of the coach up, and then a set of car ramps for the front tires. I used a length of 4x4 (I think about 4' long) and two floor jacks, to raise the body in small sections after the bolts were loose, then stuck the pads in, and glued them.
All in all, it wasn't a really difficult project, but as is usual for me it took about 3x the time that I read others have done it in.
Hope this helps.
Paul Zerkel
'78 Eleganza II
Salisbury IL (near Springfield)
[Updated on: Sat, 05 April 2014 09:17] Report message to a moderator |
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Body/Frame Pads - Insulators [message #246448 is a reply to message #246445] |
Sat, 05 April 2014 09:34 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
G'day,
Here's a link to Bert & Faye Curtis products on Bdub's website:
http://www.bdub.net/curtis-unlimited/index.html
If you scroll down a bit you will find four links for information on how to install them!
Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Zerkel
The double pads are stacked, they go under the rear bogies. When I did this virtually every bolt was spinning when I tried to
remove the nut. If you could get access to the bolts from the floor side you could deal with it that way, but that was going to
entail removing a LOT of furniture. What I did was use a nut splitter to get the nuts off, then ran a thread chaser up the bolt, and
finally installed new nuts. I also used a Dremel to cut a slot in the bottom of the bolts, so that I could hold them from the bottom
with a flat blade screwdriver while I tightened the nuts. On many of the bolts there was not enough room to get a nut splitter on
the nut, what I did ( which others May not recommend) was to cut away about a 1" x 2" area from the sheet metal and insulation to
get just enough room for the splitter. I used a Dremel tool cutter for the sheet metal and a utility knife for the insulation. I
always meant to go back with some spray foam and some aluminum tape to patch th
e areas, but never got around to it.
The bolts on the rear bumper were problematic, because of their large size I did Not want to use a nut splitter. I could not get
them to budge with a 1/2" breaker bar. I was finally successful with an impact wrench. I did have the interior out of the rear of my
coach, so for those I was able to have a helper put a wrench in the top of the bolt while I tightened from below.
I have a set of ramps I made from plans on the photo site, I used those to get the rear of. The coach up, and then a set of car
ramps for the front tired. I used a length of 4x4 (I think about 4' long) and two floor jacks, to raise the body in small sections
after the bolts were loose.
All in all, it wasn't a really difficult project, but as is usual for me it took about 3x the time that I read others have done it
in.
Hope this helps.
--
Paul
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
| Re: Body/Frame Pads - Insulators [message #246734 is a reply to message #246353] |
Mon, 07 April 2014 21:47 |
mickey szilagyi
Messages: 273
Registered: January 2013
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Thanks to all for the valuable input. We ended up installing new pads by going through and using a bottle jack to apply enough pressure to the aluminum crossmembers to get the body just high enough to clean the area and get the pads in. And now that we installed them we understand that the ones by the bogies are stacked on top of each other because they sit on the steel crossmember which sits about 1 pad thickness lower than the steel frame that the other pads rest on. So it makes the height consistent.
As for the nuts that hold down the frame, we did not have to loosen those as we were able to get the aluminum body high enough as-is to get the pads in. We used Automotive Goop (E6000) which has excellent strength and bond on the top and bottom of each pad.
Mickey
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
|
|
|
|
| Re: Body/Frame Pads - Insulators [message #246741 is a reply to message #246353] |
Mon, 07 April 2014 22:48 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| mickey szilagyi wrote on Fri, 04 April 2014 06:32 |
We're planning on replacing and more importantly putting in missing frame/body pads this weekend and we had a closer look at the following diagram:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=14837
It looks like pads go where the cross frames meet the side frames. In the diagram the 4th set of pads from the rear of the coach look to be double. Why are two shown in the diagram? Are they doubled up one on top of each other or side by side?
Any help on this is greatly appreciated. And if there is a better diagram, illustration or images of the pads proper location we'd appreciate having them. We already have the pads and are planning to glue them in place. We've also read what we could find on how to jack up the body from the frame. Any special tricks or hints are welcome as well.
Thanks for your help,
|
That is exactly the way I did mine a few years ago. The hardest part was knocking a few of the old one loose which can be done with a short pry bar that has a slight curve on the end.
Colonel Ken gave me that suggestion and it worked very well.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=891-2077&cm_mmc=Didit-_-SEM-_-GglProd-_-GglProd&003=18299132&010=891-2077&{copy:002}&{cop y:004}&{copy:005}&10=891-2077&gclid=CJOOiI_9z70CFSISMwodyB0Aww
That process made it a few hour job. I since have helped 2 other people do it the same way.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
|
|
|
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
