Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Found the Source of My Problems
[GMCnet] Found the Source of My Problems [message #227277] |
Sun, 27 October 2013 20:32 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726 Registered: March 2004 Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Those who followed my 5 month summer odyssey know that I had repeated
"vapor lock" problems, once in Death Valley. You also know that other
instances were just as peculiar as that below sea level occurrence.
Because of those anomalies, I finally decided that it wasn't vapor
lockbut an ignition problem. So, I checked the ignition coil,
cleaning and
tightening all of the connections to it. When that didn't work, I replaced
the ignition module. When I STILL experienced "Hot Hill = Stop", I finally
replaced the distributor with my spare, keeping that checked out ignition
cap and coil. STILL the problem persisted. As one last, final, desperate
fix, I replaced the ignition cap and coil with the spare.
That was in Gunnison, CO, where you don't want to be tinkering with your
ignition timing unless you already have a timing light -- ''cause the
garages there don't have any. I wound up guessing about 5* too much
initial advance -- hopefully the EFI still pulled the extra out -- I never
heard pinging (nor much of anything else).
The route out of Gunnison in over Monarch Pass, 11,312'. I ran up that hot
hill at 45-55 mph, slowing for curves, NOT the grade. And made it all the
way across with no "vapor lock".
Today, I finally got around to bench checking the coil which I SHOULD have
replaced FIRST thing. With an ohmmeter connected to the secondary winding,
I aimed a heat gun and an IR thermometer at the coil. During 8 test runs,
at about 250*-275*F, the resistance of the coil would suddenly climb from
about 15K Ohms to infinity. AH-HA!
During all my beside the road episodes, I was usually able to rest for only
5-15 minutes, then crank up and proceed. That's hardly what I'd expect
from a heat related problem. Things don't cool off that fast. In fact,
normally, the temperature of everything under the hood continues to rise
for 20-30 minutes before beginning to slowly cool off.
So, I was not very surprised when during each of my 8 bench tests, if I
continued to heat the coil after it opened, The resistance would drop back
to 17K Ohms or so!!! Even when I heated it to 400*F, the coil stayed
"healed".
Very peculiar, but those test results correlate exactly with the symptoms I
had on the road. Sure wish it was practical to open the coil and see what
sort of break is in there. A broken wire in a dense bundle, with 25K+ volts
applied to it, can do funny things.
For those who may be concerned about that 250*-275*F failure temperature,
remember that the under-hood temperature has been reported by several with
extensive instrumentation as reaching 250*F. Add to that the constant
current flow through the coil and 275*+ for the coil does not seem
unreasonable. And arcing across the break would probably add even more
heat.
Am I 110% convinced I've found and fixed the problem? No, but I sure ain't
gonna re-install that coil!
Ken "Hair Pulled Out" H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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Re: [GMCnet] Found the Source of My Problems [message #227302 is a reply to message #227277] |
Sun, 27 October 2013 23:20 |
jim kanomata
Messages: 257 Registered: March 2007 Location: fremont,ca
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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Ken,
I will need to try that method of checking the coil with heat.
We have instruments for checking coils and modules, but no provision to heat them.
Your method with heat gun and temp monitor sounds like a real solid test.
Thanks.
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Re: [GMCnet] Found the Source of My Problems [message #227305 is a reply to message #227277] |
Sun, 27 October 2013 23:29 |
Kirk
Messages: 80 Registered: April 2008
Karma: 0
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Member |
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This is what I did.
REMOTE IGNITION COIL
MSD Ignition HEI Dust Cover Conversion for a Blaster 2 Coil PN 8401
www.msdignition.com http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8401
The PN 8401 Dust Cover allows the use of an external coil with an internal coil GM HEI distributor. This cover replaces the coil in the cap, reducing distributor heat build up
Kirk & Eloise Yeager -
Motorcyclists/RVers/Dog Lovers -
77 Royale 455/TBI/3:55 -
49ers - N. Nevada -
NdnKirk at Gmail dot com
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Re: [GMCnet] Found the Source of My Problems [message #227315 is a reply to message #227302] |
Mon, 28 October 2013 03:39 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030 Registered: January 2004 Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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jim kanomata wrote on Sun, 27 October 2013 23:20 | Ken,
I will need to try that method of checking the coil with heat.
We have instruments for checking coils and modules, but no provision to heat them.
Your method with heat gun and temp monitor sounds like a real solid test.
Thanks.
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I understand Colonel Ken doing this and why he did it. He wanted to know for sure that was his problem.
For most of us wouldn't it be easier and quicker to just replace the coil with a known good one and see if that fixes it?
BTW, If you go to AZ for a replacement coil for a 1975 Toronado, AZ's cheapest one is the wrong coil. Check the color of the wires on the coil to make sure you get the correct one. I believe you want the one with yellow and red wires. Wrong ones have white and red wires.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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Re: [GMCnet] Found the Source of My Problems [message #227326 is a reply to message #227277] |
Mon, 28 October 2013 07:53 |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565 Registered: July 2012 Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
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Ken, somehow I figured you would get to the bottom of the mystery. Great info and lots of us will remember the problem and solution when it happens to us.
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
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Re: [GMCnet] Found the Source of My Problems [message #227332 is a reply to message #227277] |
Mon, 28 October 2013 08:58 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912 Registered: July 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Ken,
I am convinced 110% that you DID find the problem.
In fact this is the kind of stuff I LOVE! HARD DATA produced by careful testing and analysis of a failure to find the root cause!
Good on yah, Mate! ;-)
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
USAussie - Downunder
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Henderson
Those who followed my 5 month summer odyssey know that I had repeated
"vapor lock" problems, once in Death Valley. You also know that other
instances were just as peculiar as that below sea level occurrence.
Because of those anomalies, I finally decided that it wasn't vapor
lockbut an ignition problem. So, I checked the ignition coil,
cleaning and
tightening all of the connections to it. When that didn't work, I replaced
the ignition module. When I STILL experienced "Hot Hill = Stop", I finally
replaced the distributor with my spare, keeping that checked out ignition
cap and coil. STILL the problem persisted. As one last, final, desperate
fix, I replaced the ignition cap and coil with the spare.
That was in Gunnison, CO, where you don't want to be tinkering with your
ignition timing unless you already have a timing light -- ''cause the
garages there don't have any. I wound up guessing about 5* too much
initial advance -- hopefully the EFI still pulled the extra out -- I never
heard pinging (nor much of anything else).
The route out of Gunnison in over Monarch Pass, 11,312'. I ran up that hot
hill at 45-55 mph, slowing for curves, NOT the grade. And made it all the
way across with no "vapor lock".
Today, I finally got around to bench checking the coil which I SHOULD have
replaced FIRST thing. With an ohmmeter connected to the secondary winding,
I aimed a heat gun and an IR thermometer at the coil. During 8 test runs,
at about 250*-275*F, the resistance of the coil would suddenly climb from
about 15K Ohms to infinity. AH-HA!
During all my beside the road episodes, I was usually able to rest for only
5-15 minutes, then crank up and proceed. That's hardly what I'd expect
from a heat related problem. Things don't cool off that fast. In fact,
normally, the temperature of everything under the hood continues to rise
for 20-30 minutes before beginning to slowly cool off.
So, I was not very surprised when during each of my 8 bench tests, if I
continued to heat the coil after it opened, The resistance would drop back
to 17K Ohms or so!!! Even when I heated it to 400*F, the coil stayed
"healed".
Very peculiar, but those test results correlate exactly with the symptoms I
had on the road. Sure wish it was practical to open the coil and see what
sort of break is in there. A broken wire in a dense bundle, with 25K+ volts
applied to it, can do funny things.
For those who may be concerned about that 250*-275*F failure temperature,
remember that the under-hood temperature has been reported by several with
extensive instrumentation as reaching 250*F. Add to that the constant
current flow through the coil and 275*+ for the coil does not seem
unreasonable. And arcing across the break would probably add even more
heat.
Am I 110% convinced I've found and fixed the problem? No, but I sure ain't
gonna re-install that coil!
Ken "Hair Pulled Out" H.
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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Re: [GMCnet] Found the Source of My Problems [message #227343 is a reply to message #227305] |
Mon, 28 October 2013 10:15 |
Otterwan
Messages: 946 Registered: July 2013 Location: Lynnwood (north of Seattl...
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Kirk wrote on Sun, 27 October 2013 21:29 | This is what I did.
REMOTE IGNITION COIL
MSD Ignition HEI Dust Cover Conversion for a Blaster 2 Coil PN 8401
www.msdignition.com http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8401
The PN 8401 Dust Cover allows the use of an external coil with an internal coil GM HEI distributor. This cover replaces the coil in the cap, reducing distributor heat build up
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I've always thought those internal coils were a weak spot in the HEI system. Thanks for all the work. I've added an external coil conversion to the "to do" list!
1977 Birchaven, Lynnwood WA - "We may not be able to stop all evil in the world, but I know that how we treat one another is entirely up to us."
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Re: [GMCnet] Found the Source of My Problems [message #227360 is a reply to message #227332] |
Mon, 28 October 2013 11:36 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726 Registered: March 2004 Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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What a gracious bunch! No one has yet mentioned how dumb it was of me to
delay until last the replacement of the easiest part of all! :-)
Ken H.
On Mon, Oct 28, 2013 at 9:58 AM, Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au>wrote:
> Ken,
>
> I am convinced 110% that you DID find the problem.
>
> In fact this is the kind of stuff I LOVE! HARD DATA produced by careful
> testing and analysis of a failure to find the root cause!
>
> Good on yah, Mate! ;-)
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
> USAussie - Downunder
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Henderson
>
> Those who followed my 5 month summer odyssey know that I had repeated
> "vapor lock" problems, once in Death Valley. You also know that other
> instances were just as peculiar as that below sea level occurrence.
> Because of those anomalies, I finally decided that it wasn't vapor
> lockbut an ignition problem. So, I checked the ignition coil,
> cleaning and
> tightening all of the connections to it. When that didn't work, I
> replaced
> the ignition module. When I STILL experienced "Hot Hill = Stop", I finally
> replaced the distributor with my spare, keeping that checked out ignition
> cap and coil. STILL the problem persisted. As one last, final, desperate
> fix, I replaced the ignition cap and coil with the spare.
>
> That was in Gunnison, CO, where you don't want to be tinkering with your
> ignition timing unless you already have a timing light -- ''cause the
> garages there don't have any. I wound up guessing about 5* too much
> initial advance -- hopefully the EFI still pulled the extra out -- I never
> heard pinging (nor much of anything else).
>
> The route out of Gunnison in over Monarch Pass, 11,312'. I ran up that hot
> hill at 45-55 mph, slowing for curves, NOT the grade. And made it all the
> way across with no "vapor lock".
>
> Today, I finally got around to bench checking the coil which I SHOULD have
> replaced FIRST thing. With an ohmmeter connected to the secondary
> winding,
> I aimed a heat gun and an IR thermometer at the coil. During 8 test runs,
> at about 250*-275*F, the resistance of the coil would suddenly climb from
> about 15K Ohms to infinity. AH-HA!
>
> During all my beside the road episodes, I was usually able to rest for only
> 5-15 minutes, then crank up and proceed. That's hardly what I'd expect
> from a heat related problem. Things don't cool off that fast. In fact,
> normally, the temperature of everything under the hood continues to rise
> for 20-30 minutes before beginning to slowly cool off.
>
> So, I was not very surprised when during each of my 8 bench tests, if I
> continued to heat the coil after it opened, The resistance would drop
> back
> to 17K Ohms or so!!! Even when I heated it to 400*F, the coil stayed
> "healed".
>
> Very peculiar, but those test results correlate exactly with the symptoms I
> had on the road. Sure wish it was practical to open the coil and see what
> sort of break is in there. A broken wire in a dense bundle, with 25K+
> volts
> applied to it, can do funny things.
>
> For those who may be concerned about that 250*-275*F failure temperature,
> remember that the under-hood temperature has been reported by several with
> extensive instrumentation as reaching 250*F. Add to that the constant
> current flow through the coil and 275*+ for the coil does not seem
> unreasonable. And arcing across the break would probably add even more
> heat.
>
> Am I 110% convinced I've found and fixed the problem? No, but I sure
> ain't
> gonna re-install that coil!
>
> Ken "Hair Pulled Out" H.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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Re: [GMCnet] Found the Source of My Problems [message #227431 is a reply to message #227277] |
Mon, 28 October 2013 17:47 |
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SeanKidd
Messages: 747 Registered: June 2012 Location: Northern Neck Virginia
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Re: [GMCnet] Still at It [message #221865 is a reply to message #221574 ] Tue, 10 September 2013 07:18
SeanKidd
Messages: 256
Registered: June 2012
Location: NW, NJ
Senior Member
Ken, I'm sorry to hear you you are still having problems, When you mentioned you replaced your dizzy, I was assuming you had coil in cap HEI...if your coil is still being fed from your nichrome wire, check the voltage at the coil,you could still get a spark, but not a hot one, resistance increases with temperature. Furthermore, a hot coil will internally ground when the insulation breaks down: shoot it with your non contact thermometer....shouldn't be much hotter than the rest of the engine compartment. I think you're on the right track by replacing the coil, if anything to rule it out...
Graciously.....Sean
Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.
Colonial Travelers
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Re: [GMCnet] Found the Source of My Problems [message #227451 is a reply to message #227277] |
Mon, 28 October 2013 19:13 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447 Registered: October 2006 Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Dooh. When you swapped the HEI distributor I figured that got you a different coil so didn't go there. Anyway good find and stick a fork in it as this problem is done.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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Re: [GMCnet] Found the Source of My Problems [message #227455 is a reply to message #227431] |
Mon, 28 October 2013 19:24 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726 Registered: March 2004 Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Sean,
I'm afraid you missed some of the background: 1. This is a '76 -- never
had a points distributor and Nichrome ballast resistor. 2. Further, I
replaced the 455 a couple of years ago with a Cad500, along with EFI and
computer controlled distributor. 3. I had with me a complete spare
distributor. The DUMB thing I did was check the installed coil and
consider it good until I'd tried everything else before I replaced it with
the spare. 4. The coil did, indeed, prove to be heat sensitive when
tested yesterday -- AFTER I got home using the good spare I delayed
installing for so long. 5. Somewhere along the route to an MSEE, I heard
that thing about resistance vs heat. :-)
Thanks for your graciousness. :-)
Ken H.
On Mon, Oct 28, 2013 at 6:47 PM, Sean Kidd <fiatkidd@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Re: [GMCnet] Still at It [message #221865 is a reply to message #221574 ]
> Tue, 10 September 2013 07:18
> SeanKidd
> Messages: 256
> Registered: June 2012
> Location: NW, NJ
> Senior Member
> Ken, I'm sorry to hear you you are still having problems, When you
> mentioned you replaced your dizzy, I was assuming you had coil in cap
> HEI...if your coil is still being fed from your nichrome wire, check the
> voltage at the coil,you could still get a spark, but not a hot one,
> resistance increases with temperature. Furthermore, a hot coil will
> internally ground when the insulation breaks down: shoot it with your non
> contact thermometer....shouldn't be much hotter than the rest of the
> engine compartment. I think you're on the right track by replacing the
> coil, if anything to rule it out...
>
> Graciously.....Sean
> --
> 73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
> Hubler 1-Ton, Quadra Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms,
> Fluorescent Mineral Capital of the World, New Jersey
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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Re: [GMCnet] Found the Source of My Problems [message #227486 is a reply to message #227277] |
Mon, 28 October 2013 21:33 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260 Registered: January 2004 Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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""Those who followed my 5 month summer odyssey know that I had repeated
"vapor lock" problems, once in Death Valley. You also know that other
instances were just as peculiar as that below sea level occurrence.
Because of those anomalies, I finally decided that it wasn't vapor
lockbut an ignition problem. So, I checked the ignition coil,
""
It's amazing how an ignition problem can mimick vapor lock. Last weekend on my way home I encountered what felt like vapor lock. I usually don't have an issue with that and the aux fuel pump didn't help. When I got home, I realized my 3rd lifetime Autozone alternator had crapped out and I was running on low voltage.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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Re: [GMCnet] Found the Source of My Problems [message #227599 is a reply to message #227524] |
Tue, 29 October 2013 12:49 |
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SeanKidd
Messages: 747 Registered: June 2012 Location: Northern Neck Virginia
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Guy, are you a VP Navy vet? With a coach named Orion.....I was in VP-17 Barbers Point, Hawaii....AMS2(AW) 88-92
Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.
Colonial Travelers
[Updated on: Tue, 29 October 2013 13:07] Report message to a moderator
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