Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Engine R&R
| Engine R&R [message #226243] |
Sat, 19 October 2013 17:06  |
rickmike
Messages: 252
Registered: September 2011
Location: United States
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I am about to remove an engine in a 26 ft GMC.
What is the best method to remove the engine?
I will have it on a level concrete driveway.
I am thinking that raising the coach and going out the bottom onto a dolly would be good.
Do I drop the trans and engine together? Any special considerations or tricks?
Are there some write-ups somewhere from those who have done this before?
Thanks for your help and suggestions!
Rick M.
BTW, my coach, 'The General', is fine. I am fixing the engine in the GMC that my Dad got a few months ago. It is an original late 1973 Canyonlands and it is in pretty good shape.
1974 26' Canyonlands
aka "The General"
Clinton, TN
[Updated on: Sat, 19 October 2013 17:17] Report message to a moderator |
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Engine R&R [message #226244 is a reply to message #226243] |
Sat, 19 October 2013 17:30  |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Out the bottom requires 30" minimum lift on the coach and secure blocking.
Engine, transmission, and final drive can be removed as a unit. Out the top
requires a gantry type lifting device with a traveling block to move the
engine only to the door, where it is transfered to an engine hoist.
Personal likes and dislikes are prevalent here. If no transmission issues
are present, my personal choice is out the top. If there are transmission
issues, like chaincase leaks, or final drive issues, out the bottom makes
sense. As the Carny's say, "Ya pays yer money, and ya takes yer chances".
About the same work both ways.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 Gmc Royale 403
On Oct 19, 2013 3:06 PM, "Richard Michelhaugh" <
rick.michelhaugh@frontiernet.net> wrote:
>
>
> I am about to remove an engine in a 26 ft GMC.
>
> What is the best method to remove the engine?
>
> I will have it on a level concrete driveway.
>
> I am thinking that raising the coach and going out the bottom onto a dolly
> would be good.
>
> Do I drop the trans and engine together?
>
> Are there some write-ups somewhere from those who have done this before?
>
> Thanks for your help and suggestions!
>
> Rick M.
> --
> 1974 26' Canyonlands
> aka "The General"
> Clinton, TN
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Engine R&R [message #226246 is a reply to message #226244] |
Sat, 19 October 2013 18:15 |
jim kanomata
Messages: 257
Registered: March 2007
Location: fremont,ca
Karma: 12
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Jim H is right.
Long time ago we would pull the trans and final and drop it through the bottom.
It required one to tilt the engine and trans at a rather steep angle using 2 com along or chain lifts.
We ended up using lumber under the jack stand to create the final clearance.
Once the assembly was pulled, remove the lumber.
In CA we do have Earth Quakes.
The good side is that you spend less time mating the Final drive and trans. It takes more force to align the rear trans mounts.
Hint:
leave the trans mount plate in place, wth the mount bolts loose.
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Engine R&R [message #226248 is a reply to message #226243] |
Sat, 19 October 2013 18:52 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Richard,
I've done it 'most every way possible. My preference is to R&R the
engine+trans+FD. This album shows bottom-up installation; that should help
you understand the removal:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3950-bottom-up-engine-installation.html
As others have mentioned, you've got to get the coach at least 30" off of
the ground -- preferably with the chassis level at that elevation. My
possession of a drive-on service rack probably influences my preference for
this method. Because of the necessity to tilt the assembly to a steep
fore-aft angle, two hoists are mandatory -- I've never seen a tilt
mechanism that will operated to that extreme (about 45*).
Regardless of the method, you've got to have a lifting gantry similar to
that shown in the service manual. If you want to take the engine out the
top, then the gantry must be one with a long rail to run all the way back
to the entrance door. There are several variants of that design on the
photo site. There are GMCNet members, and some GMC clubs, who possess
conventional gantries they'll lend to you.
Don't be reluctant to ask for more information/advise.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sat, Oct 19, 2013 at 6:06 PM, Richard Michelhaugh <
rick.michelhaugh@frontiernet.net> wrote:
>
>
> I am about to remove an engine in a 26 ft GMC.
>
> What is the best method to remove the engine?
>
> I will have it on a level concrete driveway.
>
> I am thinking that raising the coach and going out the bottom onto a dolly
> would be good.
>
> Do I drop the trans and engine together?
>
> Are there some write-ups somewhere from those who have done this before?
>
> Thanks for your help and suggestions!
>
> Rick M.
> --
> 1974 26' Canyonlands
> aka "The General"
> Clinton, TN
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Engine R&R [message #226257 is a reply to message #226248] |
Sat, 19 October 2013 21:26 |
rickmike
Messages: 252
Registered: September 2011
Location: United States
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I gather that the cross member under the transmission is not removable...
Rick M.
1974 26' Canyonlands
aka "The General"
Clinton, TN
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Engine R&R [message #226259 is a reply to message #226257] |
Sat, 19 October 2013 21:46 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Richard,
You can remove the front crossmember with an oxy acetylene wrench. ;-)
Here's a link to the Maintenance Manual for your coach,
http://www.bdub.net/manuals/X7425/X7425.pdf
Take a few minutes and go to section 6 Engine and read pages 6A-53 through 6A - 55. It explains how to remove the engine out the top
and even though you're going to drop it out the bottom it provides a lot of detail that will make your life easier and keep you from
forgetting to disconnect something.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Richard Michelhaugh
Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2013 9:26 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Engine R&R
I gather that the cross member under the transmission is not removable...
Rick M.
--
1974 26' Canyonlands
aka "The General"
Clinton, TN
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
| Re: Engine R&R [message #226261 is a reply to message #226243] |
Sun, 20 October 2013 01:19 |
Craig Lechowicz
Messages: 541
Registered: October 2006
Location: Waterford, MI
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Since we are on this topic, anyone have a feel for how much more (if any) work it is to pull the whole front clip vs. either the top or bottom approach discussed? Seems like one advantage would be not having to jack the coach up as far. But, I've not yet done either the top or bottom approach. I did pull a front clip, but it was from a salvage coach with about the 1st foot or so of bodywork all cut off already, so it made it pretty easy. I'm probably about 2 years away from a serious powertrain overhaul, and depending on budget, ideally swapping the existing engine for a rebuild of a core one I have, a trans rebuild of the existing trans (maybe a Manny trans if I'm flush) and hopefully a Jim K 3.70 final drive swap. So with all that, I'm kind of thinking of doing the whole front clip and taking the time to pretty things up while it is out. Likely to be a summer without any GMC trips, though.
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Engine R&R [message #226264 is a reply to message #226261] |
Sun, 20 October 2013 05:47 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Craig,
I've R&R'd the front clip under my GMC. A few years back, I bought another
GMC for which the owner had completely overhauled the drivetrain, including
sandblasted and powdercoated frame and everthing on top of that rebuilt or
replaced.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3950-bottom-up-engine-installation.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/toronado-powered-ztr/p9575.html
While I wouldn't rate clip R&R as a very difficult job, I certainly have
not used that method for any of the 4 subsequent times I've R&R'd the
engine+trans+FD. There are simply too many additional items involved, such
as the brake lines and the power steering box. And it's still necessary to
raise the coach to about the same height. I'd only pull the clip again if
I wanted to do major work to everything on it, or to do repairs to its
structure.
By the way, an important point I failed to mention in my previous post
about dropping the engine+trans+FD: Before disconnecting the rear motor
mount, remove the flywheel dust cover and the flex plate to torque
converter bolts, and secure the torque converter in the bell housing. It's
a LOT easier to do at that stage than when the assembly's out of the coach.
HTH someone.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sun, Oct 20, 2013 at 2:19 AM, Craig Lechowicz <
craig.lechowicz@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
> Since we are on this topic, anyone have a feel for how much more (if any)
> work it is to pull the whole front clip vs. either the top or bottom
> approach discussed? Seems like one advantage would be not having to jack
> the coach up as far. But, I've not yet done either the top or bottom
> approach. I did pull a front clip, but it was from a salvage coach with
> about the 1st foot or so of bodywork all cut off already, so it made it
> pretty easy. I'm probably about 2 years away from a serious powertrain
> overhaul, and depending on budget, ideally swapping the existing engine for
> a rebuild of a core one I have, a trans rebuild of the existing trans
> (maybe a Manny trans if I'm flush) and hopefully a Jim K 3.70 final drive
> swap. So with all that, I'm kind of thinking of doing the whole front clip
> and taking the time to pretty things up while it is out. Likely to be a
> summer without any GMC trips, though.
> --
> Craig Lechowicz
> '77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
|
|
|
|
| Re: Engine R&R [message #226265 is a reply to message #226243] |
Sun, 20 October 2013 07:52 |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I just went through an engine R&R. Did the Engine/Tranny/FD as a unit.
One thing I did a bit different was how the coach was lifted. Rather than just lift the front, I lifted the rear about 20" at the frame. Using an air/hydraulic jack (best tool ever for lifting a coach) moving the coach up and down was very quick and easy. I had the front up and on 6x6 staging while I was disconnecting things on the bottom but when I was ready for the lift, I lowered the front and so it was more or less level. The reason I did this was to keep the trolly on my hoist flat and so I could move the unit fore or aft as needed to finagle it out. I lifted the engine combo and lifted/rotated until I was clear and lowered it to a piece of plywood on a pallet jack (anything that will roll and is not too tall will work). Once it was on the 'ground', I lifted the coach so it would come out under the radiator support.
The only reason I didn't pull the clip is I didn't want to pull the steering linkages.
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
|
|
|
|
| Re: Engine R&R [message #226266 is a reply to message #226243] |
Sun, 20 October 2013 08:13 |
Craig Lechowicz
Messages: 541
Registered: October 2006
Location: Waterford, MI
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Thanks Ken & Kerry, both very helpful posts. And thanks for the very helpful, great set of pictures Ken. Seeing the photo's makes the out the bottom part look easier than just reading the description done. I wish the exterior paint on my coach looked half as good as the paint on that powertrain. Someday, I'll get all this stuff done . . .
And thanks Kerry for talking about the sequence of jacking the coach up and down, that makes a lot ofsense to me. There isn't really any reason I can't get the coach as high as I would need to with my service jack, even though it's not air-powered. Now that you've seen me at Branson, it's hard to argue that I need less exercise!
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
|
|
|
|
| Re: Engine R&R [message #226284 is a reply to message #226243] |
Sun, 20 October 2013 13:26 |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Craig, here is a link to my 403 overhaul album. You'll see some photos of the R&R process. Btw, pulling the water pump gives a good bit more room. I also had the exhaust system completely off so the pipes up to the manifolds were not in the way. Manifolds were still on the engine.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6382-overhauling-the-403.html
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Engine R&R [message #226285 is a reply to message #226261] |
Sun, 20 October 2013 13:25 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Craig
Here is somehing that Bill Gagnier posted back in 2003 about removing the front clip:
-------------------------------------
I removed my front frame with complete drive train today, here is what I did.
1. Fill air bags.
2. Put jacks stands behind six frame bolts where frame will separate
3. Raise to about 23 1/2 inches to bottom of front bumper.
4. Remove grill.
5. Remove valence under grill.
6. Remove bumpers from frame.
7. Disconnect front and rear batteries.
8. Remove inner fenders.
9. Open pet cock on radiator and drain.
10. Disconnect radiator overflow hose from overflow tank.
11. Remove battery.
12. Remove rear battery cable from top of cross member & solenoid
13. Remove air conditioner compressor, it will hit body support
14. Drain freon and disconnect hoses from evaporator housing.
15. Disconnect hoses from windshield wiper motor.
16. Remove battery tray.
17. Disconnect oil filler from top of grill opening.
18. Disconnect air hoses from compressor & remove compressor
19. Remove hoses from steering box.
20. Remove steering box from frame and tie-rod end.
21. Remove lines from master cylinder and plug hose in master cylinder.
22. Disconnect rear brake line from brake block behind driver-side tire,
and remove electric wire.
23. Unbolt rear brake line from frame.
24. Disconnect bracket holding gas line on cross member.
25. Remove rubber hose on gas fill line.
26. Remove bolt on emergency cable at Y fitting and pull cable
through frame to front.
27. Unbolt gas vent hose.
28. Remove rubber gas hose behind cross member; plug hose.
29. Remove gas tank to canister hose on top of cross member.
30. Unbolt gas tank vent line from cross member.
31. Open engine cover; remove bolt, holding two cables to cruise-
control transducer.
32. Remove lower cable from transducer and vacuum hoses.
33. Remove air cleaner and disconnect two water hoses to rear.
34. Disconnect wires for alternator, oil switch, water switch, distributor,
starter (2), cruise control, air conditioning.
35. Remove throttle cable and vacuum hoses.
36. Remove transmission shift cable
37. Remove oil filler tube to engine
38. Remove dipstick to coupling
39. Loosen gas fill tube from body
40. unload torsion bars
41. Support front of frame & remove 1 2 frame bolts
I used an engine lift on front cross member to hold frame
42. block rear wheels
43. remove 2 front body mounts
44. when pulling frame forward lower frame so steering box mount will
not hit fiberglass
45. remove wheels
46. To pull frame forward I backed my truck about 6 foot in front of the
GMC & used 2 come-a-longs from the rear bumper to each side of
the GMC frame.
-------------------------------------
Emery Stora
On Oct 20, 2013, at 12:19 AM, Craig Lechowicz wrote:
>
>
> Since we are on this topic, anyone have a feel for how much more (if any) work it is to pull the whole front clip vs. either the top or bottom approach discussed? Seems like one advantage would be not having to jack the coach up as far. But, I've not yet done either the top or bottom approach. I did pull a front clip, but it was from a salvage coach with about the 1st foot or so of bodywork all cut off already, so it made it pretty easy. I'm probably about 2 years away from a serious powertrain overhaul, and depending on budget, ideally swapping the existing engine for a rebuild of a core one I have, a trans rebuild of the existing trans (maybe a Manny trans if I'm flush) and hopefully a Jim K 3.70 final drive swap. So with all that, I'm kind of thinking of doing the whole front clip and taking the time to pretty things up while it is out. Likely to be a summer without any GMC trips, though.
> --
> Craig Lechowicz
> '77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: Engine R&R [message #226288 is a reply to message #226243] |
Sun, 20 October 2013 13:48 |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Couple other comments I'll make about moving the coach up and down during the process:
1- The coach FEELS safer when it's not as high in the air. It's just as stable and blocked very well but visually it 'looks' less safe.
2- Much of the stuff you will need to do UNDER the coach before the lift is better done without being 30" in the air. I could lay on a creeper or cardboard and reach up to the fuel pump and front of engine accessories but once up in the air it was get on my knees time. My knees don't like that and since I wear trifocals, I can't see things well from those positions either.
ymmv
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
|
|
|
|
| Re: Engine R&R [message #226322 is a reply to message #226288] |
Sun, 20 October 2013 19:53 |
rickmike
Messages: 252
Registered: September 2011
Location: United States
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Thanks for the replies.
I think that dropping it down would be the best for me.
I think that we will jack up the back also to make it level.
Wish us luck!! We should be starting in November.
Rick M.
1974 26' Canyonlands
aka "The General"
Clinton, TN
|
|
|
|
| Re: Engine R&R [message #226332 is a reply to message #226243] |
Sun, 20 October 2013 20:57 |
Craig Lechowicz
Messages: 541
Registered: October 2006
Location: Waterford, MI
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Emery, thanks again for the post and the e-mail you sent me.
Kerry, your pictures were great too. I need to get better at searching around the photo site, I guess, as I forget how much great stuff is out there. I now remember seeing yours when you posted them. And, I totally agree about it "feeling" safer when closer to the ground. I dropped my fuel tanks earlier this year, and it seems like once you get it much higher than what it takes for me to slide under there either with a low-profile creeper or just on my back, it feels scarier and scarier. I usually use 2 of those Ford dual stage bottle jacks for the rear, and a wheeled service jack under the center of the front crossmember. I think if I end up with the out the bottom approach the 6x6 cribbing is probably sturdier than tall jacks and jack stands. Part of the problem with my jack stands is that even though they are quite sturdy, the coach has to be up fairly high to even get them under there at the 1st stop.
As I mentioned in an e-mail I sent to Emery I have a couple of years to noodle on it, (I hope!) and it will probably come down to how high my ambition is, and how bad I want my chassis and under hatch area pretty when I get there.
Thanks again for the comments and links.
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Engine R&R [message #226344 is a reply to message #226248] |
Sun, 20 October 2013 22:45 |
Steve
Messages: 506
Registered: September 2013
Location: East Greenville, Pa
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Ken,
Those are great pictures. Also an interesting set uo for a pit. Very nice. It gives me some ideas for my pole barn expansion project.
1978 GMC Royal
Eastern Pennslyvania
1968 Chevrolet C20 396 Camper Special
1969 Chevrolet C20 Camper Special
1985 Buick Electra Park Avenue
1992 Camaro 25th Anniversary Heretage Edition Black
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Engine R&R [message #226350 is a reply to message #226344] |
Sun, 20 October 2013 23:23 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Steve,
Thanks for the feedback.
The pit was sort of a fortuitous accident for which I'm eternally grateful.
Now that I've used it for 7 years, I can think of a few things I might
change slightly, but I'm REALLY glad I have it instead of a conventional
pit. A few of the reasons:
Sitting down, it turns out, is vastly preferable to standing up.
Being able to stand and work at waist level on things like brakes beats the
heck out of still having to do those things "on the ground" beside a
standard pit.
Having access to 3 sides of the suspended coach has it all over being in a
claustrophobic hole in the ground which collects fumes, debris, fluids, etc.
It's much easier to move engines, transmissions, etc, from the lower level
onto a trailer or into my pickup than it would be to lift them out of a pit
-- especially if the pit were covered with the immobile vehicle.
Similarly, I don't have to lift full used oil containers out of a pit but
merely load them onto my garden tractor's trailer for transport to my
pickup (my yard arrangement isn't amenable to frequent access to the lower
level with my pickup -- might mess up HER lawn)
The adjustable ramps allow much more work space than fixed pit walls which
must be close enough together to fit the narrowest vehicle's tread -- in my
case the S-10. And the open feeling with no walls is invaluable.
An engine hoist on the lower level can reach beneath the coach for a lot of
nifty tricks, like this battery hoist:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5425-battery-lift.html
A 15,000# vehicle lift MIGHT be preferable to my rack, but at much greater
cost and complexity.
For anyone with a suitably sloped location, I highly recommend a similar
service rack/ramp. And just wait 'til you see what Manny's going to blame
me for!
JMHO,
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sun, Oct 20, 2013 at 11:45 PM, Steve Adams <sjadams@ptd.net> wrote:
>
>
> Ken,
> Those are great pictures. Also an interesting set uo for a pit. Very
> nice. It gives me some ideas for my pole barn expansion project.
> --
> 1978 GMC Royal
> 1968 Chevrolet C20 396 Camper Special
> 1969 Chevrolet C20 Camper Special
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Engine R&R [message #226367 is a reply to message #226350] |
Mon, 21 October 2013 08:33 |
|
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
And it is sure nice to be able to stand up in front of a coach and install a frame to hold a transmission oil cooler.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
USAussie - Downunder
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Ken Henderson
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 11:24 PM
To: gmclist
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Engine R&R
Steve,
Thanks for the feedback.
The pit was sort of a fortuitous accident for which I'm eternally grateful.
Now that I've used it for 7 years, I can think of a few things I might
change slightly, but I'm REALLY glad I have it instead of a conventional
pit. A few of the reasons:
Sitting down, it turns out, is vastly preferable to standing up.
Being able to stand and work at waist level on things like brakes beats the
heck out of still having to do those things "on the ground" beside a
standard pit.
Having access to 3 sides of the suspended coach has it all over being in a
claustrophobic hole in the ground which collects fumes, debris, fluids, etc.
It's much easier to move engines, transmissions, etc, from the lower level
onto a trailer or into my pickup than it would be to lift them out of a pit
-- especially if the pit were covered with the immobile vehicle.
Similarly, I don't have to lift full used oil containers out of a pit but
merely load them onto my garden tractor's trailer for transport to my
pickup (my yard arrangement isn't amenable to frequent access to the lower
level with my pickup -- might mess up HER lawn)
The adjustable ramps allow much more work space than fixed pit walls which
must be close enough together to fit the narrowest vehicle's tread -- in my
case the S-10. And the open feeling with no walls is invaluable.
An engine hoist on the lower level can reach beneath the coach for a lot of
nifty tricks, like this battery hoist:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5425-battery-lift.html
A 15,000# vehicle lift MIGHT be preferable to my rack, but at much greater
cost and complexity.
For anyone with a suitably sloped location, I highly recommend a similar
service rack/ramp. And just wait 'til you see what Manny's going to blame
me for!
JMHO,
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sun, Oct 20, 2013 at 11:45 PM, Steve Adams <sjadams@ptd.net> wrote:
>
>
> Ken,
> Those are great pictures. Also an interesting set uo for a pit. Very
> nice. It gives me some ideas for my pole barn expansion project.
> --
> 1978 GMC Royal
> 1968 Chevrolet C20 396 Camper Special
> 1969 Chevrolet C20 Camper Special
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
| Re: Engine R&R [message #226403 is a reply to message #226322] |
Mon, 21 October 2013 12:05 |
 |
SeanKidd
Messages: 747
Registered: June 2012
Location: Northern Neck Virginia
Karma: 4
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Through the top...26 foot...keep reading
I built a gantry with an I-beam and 2" square steel, harbor fright 1-ton trolley and chain fall. Front engine mount, right drive shaft support, intake plate mounted hoist point, raised it through the hole, rolled it back with the trolley, lowered it to a dolly and rolled it to the door where i mounted the engine stand plate, raised the rear suspension a bit and slid it on the stand, then lowered the air bag and rolled the engine into the garage. I was also in the early stages of a complete interior rehabilitation, now that the inside is "done" I would probably drop it out the bottom.
Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.
Colonial Travelers
[Updated on: Mon, 21 October 2013 12:07] Report message to a moderator |
|
|
|
Goto Forum:
Current Time: Sun Nov 10 15:00:27 CST 2024
Total time taken to generate the page: 0.01468 seconds
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
