| STUCK KEY [message #224132] |
Mon, 30 September 2013 19:00  |
hal kading
Messages: 642
Registered: February 2004
Location: Las Cruces NM
Karma: 4
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Interesting trip continues. After finding we were without headlights on the way to Branson (power wire came off headlight switch) and very poor brakes (worked on for three days - problem with bleeding due to unfamiliar Mico power brake lock, thanks Walt H. and Bill M. who stayed untill we had brakes) and water pump going bad (changed in Oreilly's parking lot), we now can't turn off the ignition switch! Key will turn to start but won't turn off from run position and won't come out.
Any suggestions? I pulled the fuse to the fuel pumps to stop the engine and disconnected the chassis battery to shut off all accessories.
Hal Kading very frusrated with the Buskirk Stretch. Bedded down for the night at Elk City Lake OK
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| Re: STUCK KEY [message #224179 is a reply to message #224132] |
Tue, 01 October 2013 10:00  |
habbyguy
Messages: 896
Registered: May 2012
Location: Mesa, AZ
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Batman has it right. The same thing happened to me a year ago. In my case, the key got stuck in the start position, but happily I was able to twist it hard enough to get it at least back to the run position. I determined pretty quickly that it was a bad key lock cylinder, and decided there was nothing to lose, and used a big ol' pair of pliers to "turn it off". Worked fine (and told me that it's really not hard to bypass a 1970's ignition system).
My replacement cylinder with two keys cost $17 the next day. Changing it out isn't particularly difficult other than compressing all the bits so you can get the lockring out. I used an open-end wrench (or a couple of them... don't recall) to compress everything, but the right (borrowed) tool would have made things a lot simpler.
I should mention that it SEEMED like the old cylinder would have worked OK after I forced it off (shearing off the pot metal tab that provides "security"), other than the fact no one would need a key to start it. I just didn't want to chance a failure on the road - I wasn't really worried about someone breaking into my coach just to see if it would start without an ignition key...
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
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| Re: [GMCnet] STUCK KEY [message #224181 is a reply to message #224132] |
Tue, 01 October 2013 10:16 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Hal,
I remember Clarence telling and showing me that MicroLock system on your coach. You're a "Lucky Guy" as the only stretch coach that it was installed in. He was always doing all sorts of trick stuff and some not so trick.
http://www.mico.com/products/brake-actuation/brake-locks
Do you know the type and model number. and I think that yours is more of the big truck type and you could download the manual if you do not already have one on file. A number of GMC'ers have used a brake solenoid for use as a parking brake.
Your problem with the key appears to be a mechanical issue with the linkage that goes to the accessory/ignition/start switch from the mechanical key part in the steering column. You can start and run but not turn off the coach. If you go down and unplug the wiring from the switch you can shut off the coach without having to disconnect the battery. As other have already suggested it could have slipped out of adjustment. The X7525B manual on page 9-43 suggest that it could be a failed key cylinder and Gene has given you a part number for that or that the Ignition Switch Rack is worn and has jumped a tooth, which would cause a failure more like yours and Gene has also provided a part number for that too!
These are things that you should dig into when you get home. If you can start and stop go home as Dan has said! Never done an ignition lock cylinder, anyone got instructions?
Doesn't that coach have battery disconnects for the chassis and coach electrical systems? I vaguely remember seeing the passenger side under hood wiring and thought that you had disconnect switches for the batteries? If not this would be a good situation to have battery shutoff switches on the battery systems in the future. Gene has posted a great modification for starting your coach if you had issues with the ignition switch system or neutral start safety switch and could not start the coach. Hal's coach is NOT having this problem!
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/gmc-cranking-improve-for-free/p34378-neutral-start-safety-switch-issues.html
I need some more info on your coach for your photo album and for the Stretch History. I will contact you off-net for that in a week or so.
Hope to see you in early January as he head to Tucson.
JR
On Sep 30, 2013, at 8:00 PM, Hal Kading <halkading@fastwave.biz> wrote:
>
>
> Interesting trip continues. After finding we were without headlights on the way to Branson (power wire came off headlight switch) and very poor brakes (worked on for three days - problem with bleeding due to unfamiliar Mico power brake lock, thanks Walt H. and Bill M. who stayed untill we had brakes) and water pump going bad (changed in Oreilly's parking lot), we now can't turn off the ignition switch! Key will turn to start but won't turn off from run position and won't come out.
>
> Any suggestions? I pulled the fuse to the fuel pumps to stop the engine and disconnected the chassis battery to shut off all accessories.
>
> Hal Kading very frusrated with the Buskirk Stretch. Bedded down for the night at Elk City Lake OK
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: STUCK KEY [message #224182 is a reply to message #224132] |
Tue, 01 October 2013 10:49 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Hi Hal, the key cyl could be bad or the return spring in the column for the steering wheel lock pin broke, or even the ignition switch itself be bad, or the key cyl gear or rack gears bad. They are available at Auto Zone in the help section. Use the gear you get with the pinion gear as they are matched. I would start looking at the ignition switch on top of the column under the dash to see if the screws are loose allowing it to slip out of adjustment. If nothing seems out of kilter remove the switch and see if it will switch thru all positions using a small screwdriver for the slider. Yes it should start and drive as long as the steering wheel is not locked. If it works ok go to the key and see if the key will turn without the switch in place. If not you will have to go in the column. I`m on the black list if you wanna call if you get stuck.
| hal kading wrote on Mon, 30 September 2013 20:00 |
Interesting trip continues. After finding we were without headlights on the way to Branson (power wire came off headlight switch) and very poor brakes (worked on for three days - problem with bleeding due to unfamiliar Mico power brake lock, thanks Walt H. and Bill M. who stayed untill we had brakes) and water pump going bad (changed in Oreilly's parking lot), we now can't turn off the ignition switch! Key will turn to start but won't turn off from run position and won't come out.
Any suggestions? I pulled the fuse to the fuel pumps to stop the engine and disconnected the chassis battery to shut off all accessories.
Hal Kading very frusrated with the Buskirk Stretch. Bedded down for the night at Elk City Lake OK
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: STUCK KEY [message #224184 is a reply to message #224182] |
Tue, 01 October 2013 10:53 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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should read: remove the switch and see if it will switch thru all positions using a small screwdriver for the slider. Yes it should start and drive "and turn off" as long as the steering wheel is not locked.
| C Boyd wrote on Tue, 01 October 2013 11:49 |
Hi Hal, the key cyl could be bad or the return spring in the column for the steering wheel lock pin broke, or even the ignition switch itself be bad, or the key cyl gear or rack gears bad. They are available at Auto Zone in the help section. Use the gear you get with the pinion gear as they are matched. I would start looking at the ignition switch on top of the column under the dash to see if the screws are loose allowing it to slip out of adjustment. If nothing seems out of kilter remove the switch and see if it will switch thru all positions using a small screwdriver for the slider. Yes it should start and drive as long as the steering wheel is not locked. If it works ok go to the key and see if the key will turn without the switch in place. If not you will have to go in the column. I`m on the black list if you wanna call if you get stuck.
| hal kading wrote on Mon, 30 September 2013 20:00 |
Interesting trip continues. After finding we were without headlights on the way to Branson (power wire came off headlight switch) and very poor brakes (worked on for three days - problem with bleeding due to unfamiliar Mico power brake lock, thanks Walt H. and Bill M. who stayed untill we had brakes) and water pump going bad (changed in Oreilly's parking lot), we now can't turn off the ignition switch! Key will turn to start but won't turn off from run position and won't come out.
Any suggestions? I pulled the fuse to the fuel pumps to stop the engine and disconnected the chassis battery to shut off all accessories.
Hal Kading very frusrated with the Buskirk Stretch. Bedded down for the night at Elk City Lake OK
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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