| [GMCnet] Aligning the steering wheel [message #220428] |
Thu, 29 August 2013 21:56  |
glwgmc
Messages: 1014
Registered: June 2004
Karma: 10
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Hi Chuck and Emory,
The way I find works for most coaches is to first and foremost, set ride height dead on the factory spec. Drive the coach two to five miles to be sure ride height remains correct after the suspension fully settles. Factory settings are to the TOP of the slot. The go/no go gauge I supply with my alignment kits works to the CENTER of the slot as the head makes up for the +- built into the factory spec.
When you are sure ride height is correct, then push or drive your coach up onto the turn plates. Do not jack up the coach at this point! Turn the steering wheel to lock one way, mark the steering wheel and a spot on the dash just as JimH said, then count steering wheel rotations back to lock the other way. Now move the wheel half that number of turns and your steering box will be centered. I have heard, but don't know that some early steering boxes had no stops so am not sure if this works for all coaches, but it does for most.
Now attach the stand off arms arms from the alignment kit to both front wheels and the laser targets to the frame one side at a time. Treat the two front wheels independently. Loosen the locks and turn the tie rod adjusters to bring both wheels to be frame parallel independently. Pay no attention to where the steering wheel points! You first want both front wheels parallel with the frame WITH THE STEERING BOX CENTERED. This is your starting point. if you have an adjustable drag link, use that to bring the steering wheel to straight. If not, move the steering wheel on the shaft without moving the steering box joist like JimH said. The key is both wheels frame parallel with the steering box centered. The position of the wheel is cosmetic, while the position of the box and wheels is critical.
Ride height first. Steering box centered second. Front wheels frame parallel third. Caster forth. Camber fifth. Measuring rear wheels for frame parallel sixth. Measuring rear wheels for camber seventh. Do all your checking and adjusting in this order and you will be right on every time. Mix up the order and you are only guessing.......and the Gods of chance will determine how your coach drives.
My experience, anyway. Hope this helps.
Jerry
Jerry Work
The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed & hand crafted
in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building
in historic Kerby, OR
Http://jerrywork.com
541-592-5360
Cell 541-499-1027
.........
C Boyd wrote on Thu, 29 August 2013 14:45
> Sir, The way I do it. Park the coach with wheels straight forward. Do not jack it up. Unhook the drag link and one end of both tie rods. Put the idler arm and relay lever as close to 90* as possible with a square then turn the tie rods till they will drop fit, same on the drag link after box is centered. If you are starting from scratch or wheels have been disturbed set the toe as close as possible with wheels on the ground before hooking up tie rods.
>
>
> JohnL455 wrote on Thu, 29 August 2013 13:47
>> Emery I think the Pitman is that way as you have stated before, but the wheel to column on GM is movable even though the scribe should be at 12 and match the wheel scribe, otherwise the canceling cam/ box is not on center. But that is not what I am asking. Just wondering how to know the idler and relay are straight by the tie adjustment to get those straight. My rear is 3/4 high by auto so I let it adjust then blow off 2 seconds and it's right after recheck. Front height is correct middle of slot. I need to get rear adjustment links as I don't think I'll get it closer without.
--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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Jerry & Sharon Work
78 Royale
Kerby, OR
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| Re: [GMCnet] Aligning the steering wheel [message #220440 is a reply to message #220428] |
Thu, 29 August 2013 22:38  |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Jerry,
There is one thing that NEVER gets mentioned. GMC engineers specified a side to side weight imbalance of no more than 250 lb on the
front wheels and 600 lb on the rear wheels; Chuck Boyd pointed that out to me awhile back. I suggest that owners consider taking
their coach to a Cat Scale truck weigh station and verify that the way they have the weight distributed meets that requirement.
Somewhere in my emails I've describe what / how to weigh a GMC on Cat Scales.
Here's why; I woke up one morning at an RV park in San Antonio to find a beautiful fully restored GMC parked next to Double Trouble.
Turned out the couple was from Canada were breaking in their restored GMC. The husband and I got to talking about handling and he
noted that despite having everything in the coach renewed and the ride height set properly, alignment, etc. his coach was a
"handful, eh."
I gave him Dave Lenzi's contact info and suggested he get in contact with him. About six months later I happened to be talking to
Dave and I asked if "?????" had contacted him about his coach. He had in fact contacted Dave and he drove the coach down to Dave's
where he went over it. Turned out that the guy that built the coach put everything on the drivers side, washer, dryer, battery bank,
yadda, yadda, yadda. It was well over 600 lbs heavy on that side. IIRC Dave said that short of ripping the coach apart and
redistributing the weight all he could do was play with the ride height to shift the some weight to the passenger side which made it
handle better but it still would not meet his standard. I am not sure if that's what Dave did as it's from memory!
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gerald Work
Hi Chuck and Emory,
The way I find works for most coaches is to first and foremost, set ride height dead on the factory spec. Drive the coach two to
five miles to be sure ride height remains correct after the suspension fully settles. Factory settings are to the TOP of the slot.
The go/no go gauge I supply with my alignment kits works to the CENTER of the slot as the head makes up for the +- built into the
factory spec.
When you are sure ride height is correct, then push or drive your coach up onto the turn plates. Do not jack up the coach at this
point! Turn the steering wheel to lock one way, mark the steering wheel and a spot on the dash just as JimH said, then count
steering wheel rotations back to lock the other way. Now move the wheel half that number of turns and your steering box will be
centered. I have heard, but don't know that some early steering boxes had no stops so am not sure if this works for all coaches,
but it does for most.
Now attach the stand off arms arms from the alignment kit to both front wheels and the laser targets to the frame one side at a
time. Treat the two front wheels independently. Loosen the locks and turn the tie rod adjusters to bring both wheels to be frame
parallel independently. Pay no attention to where the steering wheel points! You first want both front wheels parallel with the
frame WITH THE STEERING BOX CENTERED. This is your starting point. if you have an adjustable drag link, use that to bring the
steering wheel to straight. If not, move the steering wheel on the shaft without moving the steering box joist like JimH said. The
key is both wheels frame parallel with the steering box centered. The position of the wheel is cosmetic, while the position of the
box and wheels is critical.
Ride height first. Steering box centered second. Front wheels frame parallel third. Caster forth. Camber fifth. Measuring rear
wheels for frame parallel sixth. Measuring rear wheels for camber seventh. Do all your checking and adjusting in this order and
you will be right on every time. Mix up the order and you are only guessing.......and the Gods of chance will determine how your
coach drives.
My experience, anyway. Hope this helps.
Jerry
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GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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