| Body Isolator Pads, Installation and Glue Recommendations Wanted [message #219660] |
Fri, 23 August 2013 20:25  |
djeffers
Messages: 219
Registered: June 2004
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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We are beginning the process of replacing our body isolator pads.
What advice can you give on glues to use or glues not use, or other securing methods to keep the pads fixed in their locations?
Cleaning methods for the body crossmembers and coach frame?
What has worked for you and what has not worked?
We have examined the past GMC forum comments on pad isolator replacement.
Thanks to all that commented in the past and to anyone that might comment on this subject at this time,
Don & Susan Jeffers
78 Eleganza II
[Updated on: Fri, 23 August 2013 21:15] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Body Isolator Pads, Installation and Glue Recommendations Wanted [message #219669 is a reply to message #219666] |
Fri, 23 August 2013 22:19  |
Emery Stora
Messages: 959
Registered: January 2011
Karma: 4
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Hockey pucks are very hard. They will lift the body but with very little "give" I would think they would transmit lot of vibration to the body. The Curtises and Jim Kanomata both sell pads that are ready made for the application and I personally think would be much better for this application.
Emery Stora
On Aug 23, 2013, at 9:04 PM, "David H. Jarvis" <jarvis210@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
>
> Hockey pucks cut in half (thickness) work good. Pry up the body, slide in the puck and let the body down. It will stay there.
> To cut the puck in half, you should freeze it. It will cut easier.
> In the winter, I just go outside and take them off the kids playing out front. So far, so good.
> --
> "I've always been crazy, but it kept me from going insane"
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| Re: [GMCnet] Body Isolator Pads, Installation and Glue Recommendations Wanted [message #219675 is a reply to message #219674] |
Sat, 24 August 2013 00:15 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Don,
When I replaced them 6-8 years ago, I used Liquid Nails, without screws. I
don't think any of them have moved.
The most useful tool was a flat (almost) pry bar 16-18" long. Made
removing the old pads easy after the bolts were loosened.
Ken H
On Aug 23, 2013 9:38 PM, "Don Jeffers" <don.jeffers@frontier.com> wrote:
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>
> I should have mentioned that we bought a pad set from Bert Curtis,
> including dry wall screws.
>
> We would appreciate some comments on good or bad glues or other ways to
> secure the pads.
>
>
> Don & Susan Jeffers
> 78 Eleganza II
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: Body Isolator Pads, Installation and Glue Recommendations Wanted [message #219688 is a reply to message #219660] |
Sat, 24 August 2013 07:57 |
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RF_Burns
Messages: 2277
Registered: June 2008
Location: S. Ontario, Canada
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Don,
This is my experience, and Murphy's law always follows me.
I installed Curtis's thicker pads and I love them, sure made the ride quieter BUT I did not have a good experience.
I removed the hold down brackets on each side. Then as others have said, proceeded to jack each body cross piece. Well I jacked and the body did not lift off the frame. I reread all I could find at the time and everyone just jacked up each cross member. so I tried again... I jacked and jacked as the coach groaned. The frame went up with the body each time. After raising the body about an inch with no separation from the frame there was a loud CRACK and BANG!! Now I have some waves in the body panels and cracks in the paint in the body seams. So I think I stressed the body to the point that it broke some of the panel adhesion.
So I applied my Farmboy mechanic sense. The suspension is going to push the frame against the body so I jacked up the frame, set it on jack stands and let out the rear air. I then unbolted the 4 corner pads. I could not get the main bolts to loosen so I removed the nuts from the 4 small bolts at each corner pad.
Then I used 3 jacks along one side to spread the load and simultaneously lift one side. The body now lifted easily away from the frame and I was able to slide in the pads with no issues. I used a construction adhesive with self-drilling screws.
Since I went from thin to thick pads, I needed to make up the difference for the corner pads. Since I loosened the small bolts I decided to install spacers there. Those bolts are a press-in fit, so I could not simply use washers as spacers. I found slotted washers at the local fastener supplier. I could just slide in the required number on each bolt and tighten it. I believe I determined I needed to space it 3/8".
I used jam nuts on the hold-down brackets to prevent loosening as I could not tighten them with the thick pads.
I put it up on the photo site:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5800-isolation-pad-installation.html
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
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| Re: Body Isolator Pads, Installation and Glue Recommendations Wanted [message #219698 is a reply to message #219660] |
Sat, 24 August 2013 08:44 |
Larry
Messages: 2875
Registered: January 2004
Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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I did the same as most here, accept that I did not use an adhesive to keep them in place. I expected this to be an all day job, so I started early...about 8:00am I started by putting the whole coach up on a set of wooden ramps. That put the coach about 10" off of the ground. Then I loosened the body bolts. Using a hydrallic jack, a block of wood and the diagram showing where the pads should be (many pads missing by the time I got to this job) I placed the wood block (2 X 4 X12") against the under side of th body and near where I intended to put the pad. Carefully jacking a little at a time, I only lifted the body enough to slide the old pad out and the new pad into place, leaving about 1/4" to 1/2" of the pad sticking out. Then using hex head self taping, self sealing 1 1/4" bolts (of the type that are used to screw down steel roofing), I screwed them to the aluminum cross pieces. Then let the jack down and moved on to the next location. Things moved along so easily that I was done by 10:00am or so. I did this 4 yrs ago (or so) and none of them have moved. It is an easier job than most on the GMC and takes a lot of creaks and rattles out of the body. JWID
Larry 
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Body Isolator Pads, Installation and Glue Recommendations [message #219705 is a reply to message #219660] |
Sat, 24 August 2013 09:04 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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3m super weatherstrip adhesive (black) and apply it to the top of the pad so it sticks the the body not the frame. Scotch brite pads work well for cleaning up the grime.
Todd Sullivan
Sully
77 royale
Seattle
On Aug 23, 2013, at 6:25 PM, Don Jeffers <don.jeffers@frontier.com> wrote:
>
>
> We are beginning the process of replacing our body isolator pads.
>
> What advice can you give on glues to use or glues not use, or other securing methods to keep the pads fixed in their locations?
>
> Cleaning methods for the body crossmembers and coach frame?
>
> What has worked for you and what has not worked?
>
> We have examined the past GMC forum comments on pad isolator replacement.
>
> Thanks to all that commented in the past and to anyone that might comment on this subject at this time,
>
>
> Don & Susan Jeffers
> 78 Eleganza II
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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