Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » LP Tank Valve
| LP Tank Valve [message #219318] |
Tue, 20 August 2013 18:29  |
Galen
Messages: 146
Registered: November 2011
Location: New Virginia, IA
Karma: 0
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My OEM tank valve leaks - not just while opening or closing, but it is now leaking in the fully open position. Enough to smell. I have planned on either replacing the valve or repacking/sealing once the tank was empty. In two years or so I have only used about a half a tank. I'd also like to tee in, before the regulator, so I can run my smoker or grill off this bottle.
Do I just need to vent off the remaining half tank - or can a propane dealer recover it?
Do they replace the valve with the new style valve?
Any issues I should consider on the TEE setup?
Thank you for any input.
Galen
Galen Briggs
New Virginia, Iowa
1978 Palm Beach
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| Re: LP Tank Valve [message #219355 is a reply to message #219318] |
Tue, 20 August 2013 22:41  |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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| Galen wrote on Tue, 20 August 2013 19:29 |
My OEM tank valve leaks - not just while opening or closing, but it is now leaking in the fully open position. Enough to smell. I have planned on either replacing the valve or repacking/sealing once the tank was empty. In two years or so I have only used about a half a tank. I'd also like to tee in, before the regulator, so I can run my smoker or grill off this bottle.
Do I just need to vent off the remaining half tank - or can a propane dealer recover it?
Do they replace the valve with the new style valve?
Any issues I should consider on the TEE setup?
Thank you for any input.
Galen
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Galen,
After trying many thing things, I was unable to locate a seal kit for my propane valve. I was informed by a local LP service guy that they never repair them, only replace them.
I was able to order a new valve. You will have to find a local LP dealer to work with as they don't like to service what they do not own.
About where to T the system, you probably want to put the T after the regulator. Most LP stuff runs on 11"WC for pressure. Why not use the regulator you have.
If the things you want to hang on need more than 20KBTU of gas, then get a two stage regulator. It will be more stable.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] LP Tank Valve [message #219391 is a reply to message #219355] |
Wed, 21 August 2013 06:54 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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If you're cheeep as me, disassemble the valve and proceed to the Ace Hardware. I found several stock O rings on their rack which fit the valve and allow it to seal fully open and fully closed. The option is buy a new one, they don't seem to be too expensive. I had no option, I was at a show in Mississippi in January and the coach was chilly. Local (Starkville) dealer didn't have a valve.
--johnny
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On Wed, 8/21/13, Matt Colie <matt7323tze@gmail.com> wrote:
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] LP Tank Valve
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Date: Wednesday, August 21, 2013, 3:41 AM
Galen wrote on Tue, 20 August 2013 19:29
> My OEM tank valve leaks - not just while opening or
closing, but it is now leaking in the fully open position.
Enough to smell. I have planned on either replacing the
valve or repacking/sealing once the tank was empty. In two
years or so I have only used about a half a tank. I'd also
like to tee in, before the regulator, so I can run my smoker
or grill off this bottle.
>
> Do I just need to vent off the remaining half tank - or
can a propane dealer recover it?
>
> Do they replace the valve with the new style valve?
>
> Any issues I should consider on the TEE setup?
>
> Thank you for any input.
>
> Galen
Galen,
After trying many thing things, I was unable to locate a
seal kit for my propane valve. I was informed by a
local LP service guy that they never repair them, only
replace them.
I was able to order a new valve. You will have to find
a local LP dealer to work with as they don't like to service
what they do not own.
About where to T the system, you probably want to put the T
after the regulator. Most LP stuff runs on 11"WC for
pressure. Why not use the regulator you have.
If the things you want to hang on need more than 20KBTU of
gas, then get a two stage regulator. It will be more
stable.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie
'73 Glacier 23 Chaumière (say show-me-air)
Now with 4 working Rear Brakes
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: LP Tank Valve [message #219399 is a reply to message #219318] |
Wed, 21 August 2013 07:30 |
Galen
Messages: 146
Registered: November 2011
Location: New Virginia, IA
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Thanks for the advice. My thoughts on cutting in before the regulator are because then I could just use the hoses and regulators on each appliance and not worry about what they require. That and I have at least one grill that has a nonstandard fitting on its regulated side. The thinking is cutting in before the regulator would not require modifying any of my LP grills/smokers/heaters/fryers/etc. I could just use an ACME male fitting off the TEE and hook up whatever I wanted, or may get later. If I cut in after my regulator, wouldn't I need to not use the hoses that came with say my turkey fryer, since it has a regulator inline too?
Galen Briggs
New Virginia, Iowa
1978 Palm Beach
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| Re: LP Tank Valve [message #219424 is a reply to message #219399] |
Wed, 21 August 2013 10:08 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| Galen wrote on Wed, 21 August 2013 08:30 |
Thanks for the advice. My thoughts on cutting in before the regulator are because then I could just use the hoses and regulators on each appliance and not worry about what they require. That and I have at least one grill that has a nonstandard fitting on its regulated side. The thinking is cutting in before the regulator would not require modifying any of my LP grills/smokers/heaters/fryers/etc. I could just use an ACME male fitting off the TEE and hook up whatever I wanted, or may get later. If I cut in after my regulator, wouldn't I need to not use the hoses that came with say my turkey fryer, since it has a regulator inline too?
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Galen,
You are going to have to modify something.
The only code accepted way to do what you want will to be get a valve and/or a self closing CAG 350 female to put on the branch of the T. That way you could screw the tank fitting into the fitting at the T. CGA 350 female (looks just like the tank valve) are available. But, now you have to deal with 70psi (room temperature) gas. Or, if hook in after the regulator, you only have to handle 11"WC (less than 0.5psi) gas. Double shut off quick connects are avaialble for this service. RV places have them for connecting RVQs. You can also get them other places for less.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: LP Tank Valve [message #219453 is a reply to message #219318] |
Wed, 21 August 2013 13:47 |
Galen
Messages: 146
Registered: November 2011
Location: New Virginia, IA
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I don't mind modifying one thing (my tank), I just don't want to have modify everything. What is the code you are referring to Matt? I wouldn't mind doing some reading. Thanks again.
Galen Briggs
New Virginia, Iowa
1978 Palm Beach
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| Re: LP Tank Valve [message #219696 is a reply to message #219453] |
Sat, 24 August 2013 08:32 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| Galen wrote on Wed, 21 August 2013 14:47 |
I don't mind modifying one thing (my tank), I just don't want to have modify everything. What is the code you are referring to Matt? I wouldn't mind doing some reading. Thanks again.
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Galen,
As with everything GMC, there are multiple codes involved.
ASTM - American Society of Testing Materials - They control the specifications for the tank and make it so our tanks don't have to be replaced. Inspected maybe, but not hydroed and they have no end of service date.
CGA - Compressed Gas Association - These people have all the say about gas fittings and valves, and not just fuel gasses. They are the guys for all the LP tank connections.
NFPA - National Fire Prevention Association - These are the nit-pickers that try to keep things from burning when they should not.
None of these have any enforcement arm, but if you do something very different than recommended practice, your insurance carrier may use that as a reason to deny a claim. They do all have approval systems, just like Underwriter's and NSF.
NFPA has written the codes that will cover what you can do with your LP system and still be considered safe. They have a lot on file, you don't want to buy the code book, but it is probably available at a local library. Many places in all these codes are recommendations. While these many carry no weight for approval, they are often based on real situational experience.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] LP Tank Valve [message #219700 is a reply to message #219696] |
Sat, 24 August 2013 08:53 |
Emery Stora
Messages: 959
Registered: January 2011
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Matt
I believe you made a mistake with the alphabet soup code letters covering the frame mounted tank in the GMC
It is not the ASTM. It is the ASME - American Society of Mechanical Engineers. They have standards for pressure vessels which is what our propane tanks are.
The propane bottles for BarBQue grills are covered by DOT (Dept of Transportation) regulations.
ASME tanks do not have to be recertified periodically as the DOT bottles do.
Emery Stora
On Aug 24, 2013, at 7:33 AM, Matt Colie <matt7323tze@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Galen wrote on Wed, 21 August 2013 14:47
>> I don't mind modifying one thing (my tank), I just don't want to have modify everything. What is the code you are referring to Matt? I wouldn't mind doing some reading. Thanks again.
>
> Galen,
> As with everything GMC, there are multiple codes involved.
> ASTM - American Society of Testing Materials - They control the specifications for the tank and make it so our tanks don't have to be replaced. Inspected maybe, but not hydroed and they have no end of service date.
> CGA - Compressed Gas Association - These people have all the say about gas fittings and valves, and not just fuel gasses. They are the guys for all the LP tank connections.
> NFPA - National Fire Prevention Association - These are the nit-pickers that try to keep things from burning when they should not.
>
> None of these have any enforcement arm, but if you do something very different than recommended practice, your insurance carrier may use that as a reason to deny a claim. They do all have approval systems, just like Underwriter's and NSF.
>
> NFPA has written the codes that will cover what you can do with your LP system and still be considered safe. They have a lot on file, you don't want to buy the code book, but it is probably available at a local library. Many places in all these codes are recommendations. While these many carry no weight for approval, they are often based on real situational experience.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie
> '73 Glacier 23 Chaumière (say show-me-air)
> Now with 4 working Rear Brakes
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: LP Tank Valve [message #227643 is a reply to message #219318] |
Tue, 29 October 2013 18:55 |
Galen
Messages: 146
Registered: November 2011
Location: New Virginia, IA
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I started this thread a couple months ago about my leaking propane tank valve and thought I'd post my findings. I made the mistake of stopping by an RV dealer where the stem was initially priced at $75, then they told me it was discontinued. I went to a LP distributor, and the office people told me they wouldn't sell me a valve, so I asked to talk to one of the guys. After talking to one of the service fellas, he laughed off the office and gave me a standard 100# cylinder valve with no dip tube for $23.
I happened to be driving the GMC and passed a different large propane distributor in another state a couple weeks later and decided to fill up. I wanted to get a little propane and leak test the valve - the guy filling shrugged me off and said he'd just fill it and if I wanted to leak test the valve after, he'd pump it and refill if it leaked, but it wasn't going to leak - said it was well doped and there weren't enough threads showing for it to leak. I checked it afterward and he was right - no leaks.
He also asked where I got the valve and I told him. He said his business has over the past few months been getting two or three letters a month from trade associations and the national office advising them not to sell parts or service unowned tanks due to potential liability; probably explains the office at the other dealer, and maybe why the RV place couldn't get a valve.
Glad I took care of it when I did.
Galen Briggs
New Virginia, Iowa
1978 Palm Beach
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| Re: LP Tank Valve [message #227644 is a reply to message #227643] |
Tue, 29 October 2013 19:04 |
Otterwan
Messages: 946
Registered: July 2013
Location: Lynnwood (north of Seattl...
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I've purchase fill valves for my leaky forklift tanks from Amazon. No hassles and good prices. Due to liability issues the standard answer from any place that sells propane is NO!!!!!
1977 Birchaven, Lynnwood WA - "We may not be able to stop all evil in the world, but I know that how we treat one another is entirely up to us."
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| Re: LP Tank Valve [message #227647 is a reply to message #219399] |
Tue, 29 October 2013 19:35 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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| Galen wrote on Wed, 21 August 2013 06:30 |
Thanks for the advice. My thoughts on cutting in before the regulator are because then I could just use the hoses and regulators on each appliance and not worry about what they require. That and I have at least one grill that has a nonstandard fitting on its regulated side. The thinking is cutting in before the regulator would not require modifying any of my LP grills/smokers/heaters/fryers/etc. I could just use an ACME male fitting off the TEE and hook up whatever I wanted, or may get later. If I cut in after my regulator, wouldn't I need to not use the hoses that came with say my turkey fryer, since it has a regulator inline too?
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It is very common to tap in before the regulator and most RV supply outlets including Camping World have the necessary fittings and hoses.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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| Re: LP Tank Valve [message #227649 is a reply to message #219318] |
Tue, 29 October 2013 19:45 |
Galen
Messages: 146
Registered: November 2011
Location: New Virginia, IA
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Bob...that's what I ended up with. I got the Tee at the RV dealer, and an extension hose that has the same fitting as the little green bottles. That will let me use my Roadtrip grill and anything else that needs the green bottles. Then I got an adapter that threads to the end of this hose that has the BBQ bottle fitting so I can hook up my smoker/turkey fryer/other grills/etc. This Tee is between the tank and a new two stage regulator I installed.
I didn't want to cut in after the regulator because all these appliances have their own regulators either built onto them or one their hoses.
I'll also note that I was going to go the cheap route like Johnny and replace the O ring, but it didn't look like an O ring I could find a replacement match.
Galen Briggs
New Virginia, Iowa
1978 Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] LP Tank Valve [message #227660 is a reply to message #227649] |
Tue, 29 October 2013 21:02 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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This is what I did a couple of years ago.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/general-pictures/p46784-lp-tank-modification.html
There are 9 pictures in this series. The green fiberglass tank has been returned on a recall for that manufacturer. I now have a standard steel 30# tank.
JR Wright
78 Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion
Michigan
On Oct 29, 2013, at 8:45 PM, Galen Briggs <gpbriggs@iowatelecom.net> wrote:
>
>
> Bob...that's what I ended up with. I got the Tee at the RV dealer, and an extension hose that has the same fitting as the little green bottles. That will let me use my Roadtrip grill and anything else that needs the green bottles. Then I got an adapter that threads to the end of this hose that has the BBQ bottle fitting so I can hook up my smoker/turkey fryer/other grills/etc. This Tee is between the tank and a new two stage regulator I installed.
>
> I didn't want to cut in after the regulator because all these appliances have their own regulators either built onto them or one their hoses.
>
> I'll also note that I was going to go the cheap route like Johnny and replace the O ring, but it didn't look like an O ring I could find a replacement match.
> --
> Galen Briggs
> New Virginia, Iowa
> 1978 Palm Beach
> _______________________________________________
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] LP Tank Valve [message #227680 is a reply to message #227660] |
Wed, 30 October 2013 00:32 |
jim kanomata
Messages: 257
Registered: March 2007
Location: fremont,ca
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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have found that the pressure regulators are old and does not control the pressure to create adequate flame to work the refrigerator properly.
Best to replace them.
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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| Re: [GMCnet] LP Tank Valve [message #227685 is a reply to message #227682] |
Wed, 30 October 2013 00:52 |
Len Novak
Messages: 676
Registered: February 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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I had a leak somewhere and the gauge always read full. I got tired of
chasing it so I took it to the local propane supplier here in Fallbrook. He
mentioned that most of the hardware should be replaced about every ten years
or so. New valves, regulator and ran a line for a BBQ. The float was stuck
against the side of the tank and fell free when he pulled the valve. I
think it ran about $100 or so out the door.
Cheers,
Len and Pat Novak
1978 GMC Kingsley
The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!
Fallbrook, CA new email: B52Rule@Roadrunner.Com
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375
www.bdub.net/novak/
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Emery Stora
Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2013 10:40 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] LP Tank Valve
People should also get a two stage regulator instead of the original single
stage.
Emery Stora
On Oct 29, 2013, at 11:32 PM, jim kanomata <jimk@appliedairfilters.com>
wrote:
>
>
> have found that the pressure regulators are old and does not control the
pressure to create adequate flame to work the refrigerator properly.
> Best to replace them.
> --
> Applied/GMC, Fremont, CA
> 1-800-752-7502
> jimk@appliedgmc.com
> www.appliedgmc.com
> _______________________________________________
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Len and Pat Novak
1978 GMC Kingsley
The Beast II with dash lights that work and labels you can see!
Las Vegas, NV new email: B52sRule@Gmail.com
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4375
www.bdub.net/novak/
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