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Brake touble [message #217212] Tue, 06 August 2013 18:34 Go to next message
Charley is currently offline  Charley   United States
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Registered: September 2010
Location: Magnolia Texas
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Well looks like the next big project has arrived as my brake pedal is soft going to the floor with almost no brakes at all. I was able to get it slowed downed by pumping and driving very cautiously. I won't be driving her until I get this resolved. The Brake light is on all the time now. I guess time to call up Jim and get a master cylinder and Sensitized brake booster. Then I guess I need to pull the rears and see if the rear cylinders are shot. Trying not to break the bank but must get it fixed as the brakes are sightly needed to survive. Any suggestions?? Sure this won't be cheap.

Charley Harris Magnolia Texas 1976 Edgemont
Re: Brake touble [message #217213 is a reply to message #217212] Tue, 06 August 2013 18:38 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Harry is currently offline  Harry   Canada
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Possibly just the master cylinder. Available locally.
Re: [GMCnet] Brake touble [message #217216 is a reply to message #217212] Tue, 06 August 2013 18:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
emerystora is currently offline  emerystora   United States
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I would think that the problem is the master cylinder leaking around the piston internally.
You wouldn't have to necessarily replace the booster unless you are trying to get more pedal pressure.
First I would just concentrate on replacing the master cylinder. You can disconnect the brake lines to it and move the ends up a little so they don't drip.
Get a new master cylinder and bench bleed it. You can then reconnect the lines and test the brakes. You may have to bleed the brakes as some air may have entered the lines in the past. But try your brakes before bleeding them and you will probably find that they are working.

Emery Stora

On Aug 6, 2013, at 5:34 PM, Charley Harris wrote:

>
>
> Well looks like the next big project has arrived as my brake pedal is soft going to the floor with almost no brakes at all. I was able to get it slowed downed by pumping and driving very cautiously. I won't be driving her until I get this resolved. The Brake light is on all the time now. I guess time to call up Jim and get a master cylinder and Sensitized brake booster. Then I guess I need to pull the rears and see if the rear cylinders are shot. Trying not to break the bank but must get it fixed as the brakes are sightly needed to survive. Any suggestions?? Sure this won't be cheap.
> --
> Charley Harris
> Magnolia Texas
> 1976 Edgemont
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Re: Brake touble [message #217219 is a reply to message #217212] Tue, 06 August 2013 19:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Charley is currently offline  Charley   United States
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Thanks for all the help1 Is any brand master cylinder better than another? Auto Zone? Oreilys? Advance? Napa? Just curious on thoughts as will be trying this first.

Charley Harris Magnolia Texas 1976 Edgemont
Re: [GMCnet] Brake touble [message #217221 is a reply to message #217219] Tue, 06 August 2013 19:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
powerjon is currently offline  powerjon   United States
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Charley,
Do you have a basically stock braking system?

JR
On Aug 6, 2013, at 8:26 PM, Charley Harris <charley.harris@bakerhughes.com> wrote:

>
>
> Thanks for all the help1 Is any brand master cylinder better than another? Auto Zone? Oreilys? Advance? Napa? Just curious on thoughts as will be trying this first.
> --
> Charley Harris
> Magnolia Texas
> 1976 Edgemont
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist

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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
Re: Brake touble [message #217224 is a reply to message #217212] Tue, 06 August 2013 19:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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Location: S.E. Michigan
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Charley wrote on Tue, 06 August 2013 19:34

Well looks like the next big project has arrived as my brake pedal is soft going to the floor with almost no brakes at all. I was able to get it slowed downed by pumping and driving very cautiously. I won't be driving her until I get this resolved. The Brake light is on all the time now. I guess time to call up Jim and get a master cylinder and Sensitized brake booster. Then I guess I need to pull the rears and see if the rear cylinders are shot. Trying not to break the bank but must get it fixed as the brakes are sightly needed to survive. Any suggestions?? Sure this won't be cheap.

Charley,

You haven't said if you are loosing brake fluid...
If you are find and fix that.
Assuming you have a stock system.
If the front reservoir is down, the leak is in the back. Blow the back up and look underneath with a flashlight and you will probably see which wheel is leaking. Fix that.
Then flush the brake system and try to make it leak again.

If the brake indicator light is on, this indicates an imbalance in the system. That is all it means.

Please do the complete diagnostic before you buy parts. Parts changing can get expensive.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: [GMCnet] Brake touble [message #217227 is a reply to message #217212] Tue, 06 August 2013 20:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
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If you find you need brake shoes I would suggest getting carbon metallic from JimK.

When the front pads need replacing go the same route.

It is important to sand the surface of the drums and disks to clean them thoroughly as I understand it CM pads and shoes transfer
material from themselves to the disks or drums.

Regards,
Rob M.


-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Charley Harris
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 6:34 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Brake touble



Well looks like the next big project has arrived as my brake pedal is soft going to the floor with almost no brakes at all. I was
able to get it slowed downed by pumping and driving very cautiously. I won't be driving her until I get this resolved. The Brake
light is on all the time now. I guess time to call up Jim and get a master cylinder and Sensitized brake booster. Then I guess I
need to pull the rears and see if the rear cylinders are shot. Trying not to break the bank but must get it fixed as the brakes are
sightly needed to survive. Any suggestions?? Sure this won't be cheap.
--
Charley Harris
Magnolia Texas
1976 Edgemont
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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: Brake touble [message #217244 is a reply to message #217212] Tue, 06 August 2013 22:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Charley is currently offline  Charley   United States
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All good to know. The brake system is all original and from the looks of the fluid it may be original as well. It does not appear to be losing fluid or not at a very high rate. Both front and rear reservoir are full of fluid as I added it when I was in North Carolina on the way back to Texas. Fun ride with brakes that hardly work.

Charley Harris Magnolia Texas 1976 Edgemont
Re: Brake touble [message #217246 is a reply to message #217244] Tue, 06 August 2013 23:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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Replace the master cylinder. Do not forget to bench bleed it.

While the lines are disconnected slide a 1 foot pair of hoses (I like the clear ones) over the line ends and point the hoses up. Fill the temporary hoses with brake fluid. This will keep the fluid in the lines from running out and prevent air from entering the lines.

Another thing I have done on many other drum brake vehicles is to step on the brakes, and set the parking brake prior to master cylinder removal. When the replacement was all done I released the parking brake allowing the wheel cylinders to compress and moving some fluid in the lines (with any air) to return to the master cylinder reservoir.

You can do the same thing to the front by removing one front wheel and one caliper. Compress the piston in the caliper in with a c-clamp forcing fluid with any air back into the master cylinder reservoir.

We are only trying to remove any air that may have entered the disconnected line at the master cylinder. This will not remove air elsewhere in the system.

I have replaced a master cylinder on the road by myself on a GMC in an AutoZone parking lot doing the above and not had to bleed the brakes.

After you get the brakes working correctly, if you haven't replaced the brake fluid recently, you probably ought to bleed the entire system, but that is another project.



Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: [GMCnet] Brake touble [message #217254 is a reply to message #217212] Wed, 07 August 2013 06:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jhbridges is currently offline  jhbridges   United States
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When my 23' lost pedal and lit the light, the problem turned out to be air in the front circuit. I had let the fluid get too low. Bleeding the fronts with a full master cylinder returned the front brakes. I watch the fluid more closely now. This was the easy fix, further problems are not as easy or chesp.

--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/6/13, Charley Harris <charley.harris@bakerhughes.com> wrote:

Subject: [GMCnet] Brake touble
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Date: Tuesday, August 6, 2013, 11:34 PM



Well  looks like the next big project has arrived as my
brake pedal is soft going to the floor with almost no brakes
at all.  I was able to get it slowed downed by pumping
and driving very cautiously.  I won't be driving her
until I get this resolved.  The Brake light is on all
the time now.  I guess time to call up Jim and get a
master cylinder and Sensitized brake booster.  Then I
guess I need to pull the rears and see if the rear cylinders
are shot.  Trying not to break the bank but must get it
fixed as the brakes are sightly needed to survive.  Any
suggestions??  Sure this won't be cheap.
--
Charley Harris
Magnolia Texas
1976 Edgemont
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons. Braselton, Ga. I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
Re: [GMCnet] Brake touble [message #217258 is a reply to message #217244] Wed, 07 August 2013 06:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jhbridges is currently offline  jhbridges   United States
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Did you add fluid before or after the pedal went Dixie on you?

--johnny

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 8/7/13, Charley Harris <charley.harris@bakerhughes.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Brake touble
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Date: Wednesday, August 7, 2013, 3:45 AM



All good to know.  The brake system is all original and
from the looks of the fluid it may be original as
well.  It does not appear to be losing fluid or not at
a very high rate.  Both front and rear reservoir are
full of fluid as I added it when I was in North Carolina on
the way back to Texas.  Fun ride with brakes that
hardly work.
--
Charley Harris
Magnolia Texas
1976 Edgemont
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons. Braselton, Ga. I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
Re: [GMCnet] Brake touble [message #217260 is a reply to message #217244] Wed, 07 August 2013 07:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
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Charley,

If you come down to Humble before this Sunday we'll loan you one of Jim Hupy's pressure bleeders which will make short work of
bleeding your brakes.

Also if you decide to get a sensitized booster make sure you get one with TWO check valve ports in it. You can plug a JC-4 vacuum
pump directly into the one on the left as you face the booster (or plumb it to a remote vacuum pump) the second goes directly to the
intake manifold; makes a neat installation.

Regards,
Rob M.


-----Original Message-----
From: Charley Harris

All good to know. The brake system is all original and from the looks of the fluid it may be original as well. It does not appear
to be losing fluid or not at a very high rate. Both front and rear reservoir are full of fluid as I added it when I was in North
Carolina on the way back to Texas. Fun ride with brakes that hardly work.
--
Charley

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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: Brake touble [message #217396 is a reply to message #217212] Thu, 08 August 2013 13:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Charley is currently offline  Charley   United States
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Rob I may have to take you up on that offer to borrow Hupy's magic machine. I will give you a call as I am at work and hope to try and slide out of here early.

Charley Harris Magnolia Texas 1976 Edgemont
Re: Brake touble [message #217403 is a reply to message #217212] Thu, 08 August 2013 13:50 Go to previous message
Darryl is currently offline  Darryl   United States
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It's worth it to get your parts from JimK. You'll be sure to get the right parts the first time and have technical advice specific to the GMC if you need it.

If they haven't been replaced be sure to replace the combination valve and the "rubber" brake hoses.

Borrow Jim Huppy's brake bleeder from Rob if you can. I bought one and it was worth every penny.


Darryl Meyers 1978 Eleganza II El Dorado Hills, CA
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