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Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214424] Mon, 15 July 2013 08:55 Go to next message
xplorid is currently offline  xplorid   United States
Messages: 213
Registered: February 2012
Location: Boise
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Senior Member
About set to leave on our 1st RV trip ID-NY and back, I want to tune the 455. I have a timing light, tach meter, a new vacuum gauge, and very little experience on this vehicle. I have read all the past posts I could. They seem to say (with a Patterson distributor on a '76 engine) -

plug the vacuum line to the distributor
set idle at 1100 or set idle at 550-600 (different posts)
aim for 12 deg initial timing with this distributor
reconnect vacuum, start engine, and set idle
adjust the 2 mixture screws on the distributor 1 at a time to max vacuum
reset idle if necessary
drive it and adjust from there, with pinging under load as the guideline for further timing adjustments.

Something like that. So here's my thing: I drove from Florida to here last year after purchase, and other than some vapor lock it ran well enough, 9+mpg, and about a quart of oil every 800 miles.

Last fall the distributor failed because of an improperly mounted cap and rotor so I bought the Springfield Ignition thru Applied. A GMC buddy here (another Jim) plopped the new distributor in and dialed it quickly saying "that sounds about right". Ran great and I did not think about again until this weekend, prepping for the big trip.

So, I hooked up the light and meter (no vacuum gauge yet) and found the timing was at around 17 at 1100 rpm. Remember, it was running OK, no pinging even pulling up the hills around Boise on a hot day. I backed it down to 12, reset the idle and never touched the mixture. Started fine, maybe a little surging on idle, not sure yet. On the test drive it ran OK, but maybe did not seem quite as anxious to get up and go.

The other strange thing is that the HVAC system misbehaved when the engine was under load, like it losing the vacuum needed to direct air flow - it moves to the floor vents until the engine load lightens.

So, big question is should I advance the timing back up to the 17 range since it was not pinging before? Little question is does the HVAC behavior indicate a vacuum leak somewhere?

Sorry for the longer post, but the anxiety before the big trip is getting to me. I want to make this as worry free for my wife as possible, as this experience will color everything that comes after.

Thanks,
Jeff


1974/94 GMCII by Explorer Manny 6.5 TD Al radiator 1 ton front 4 bags back
Re: Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214433 is a reply to message #214424] Mon, 15 July 2013 09:42 Go to previous messageGo to next message
lqqkatjon is currently offline  lqqkatjon   United States
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Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
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Senior Member
Can't help you with the tuning, but I will watch this post to see what they come up with.

but if you are needing an overnight or couple night place to stay, in Central Minnesota. let me know.

St. Cloud, is right on I-94. and I am probably 3 minutes off the interstate.

Jon
Wishing I had time and money to go cross country.


Jon Roche 75 palm beach EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now. St. Cloud, MN http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
Re: Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214435 is a reply to message #214433] Mon, 15 July 2013 09:53 Go to previous messageGo to next message
xplorid is currently offline  xplorid   United States
Messages: 213
Registered: February 2012
Location: Boise
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Thx Jon - I suspect this post might help quite a few newbies. Thx for the overnight offer, but our plan takes us down 84 to 80 at SLC and east from there to Ohio and western NY.

Jeff


1974/94 GMCII by Explorer Manny 6.5 TD Al radiator 1 ton front 4 bags back
Re: [GMCnet] Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214437 is a reply to message #214424] Mon, 15 July 2013 09:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
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Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
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If I were you I'd call Dick Paterson!

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: jeff sugheir

About set to leave on our 1st RV trip ID-NY and back, I want to tune the 455. I have a timing light, tach meter, a new vacuum
gauge, and very little experience on this vehicle. I have read all the past posts I could. They seem to say (with a Patterson
distributor on a '76 engine) -

plug the vacuum line to the distributor
set idle at 1100 or set idle at 550-600 (different posts)
aim for 12 deg initial timing with this distributor
reconnect vacuum, start engine, and set idle
adjust the 2 mixture screws on the distributor 1 at a time to max vacuum
reset idle if necessary
drive it and adjust from there, with pinging under load as the guideline for further timing adjustments.

Something like that. So here's my thing: I drove from Florida to here last year after purchase, and other than some vapor lock it
ran well enough, 9+mpg, and about a quart of oil every 800 miles.

Last fall the distributor failed because of an improperly mounted cap and rotor so I bought the Springfield Ignition thru Applied.
A GMC buddy here (another Jim) plopped the new distributor in and dialed it quickly saying "that sounds about right". Ran great and
I did not think about again until this weekend, prepping for the big trip.

So, I hooked up the light and meter (no vacuum gauge yet) and found the timing was at around 17 at 1100 rpm. Remember, it was
running OK, no pinging even pulling up the hills around Boise on a hot day. I backed it down to 12, reset the idle and never
touched the mixture. Started fine, maybe a little surging on idle, not sure yet. On the test drive it ran OK, but maybe did not
seem quite as anxious to get up and go.

The other strange thing is that the HVAC system misbehaved when the engine was under load, like it losing the vacuum needed to
direct air flow - it moves to the floor vents until the engine load lightens.

So, big question is should I advance the timing back up to the 17 range since it was not pinging before? Little question is does
the HVAC behavior indicate a vacuum leak somewhere?

Sorry for the longer post, but the anxiety before the big trip is getting to me. I want to make this as worry free for my wife as
possible, as this experience will color everything that comes after.

Thanks,
Jeff
--
1973/94 GMCII in Boise 76 455 with headers & Patterson distributor,1 ton front, 4 bags back, Precision Steering Gearbox


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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214439 is a reply to message #214437] Mon, 15 July 2013 10:08 Go to previous messageGo to next message
sgltrac is currently offline  sgltrac   United States
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Registered: April 2011
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Senior Member
I second Robs suggestion.

Todd Sullivan

Sully
77 royale
Seattle
On Jul 15, 2013, at 7:58 AM, "Rob Mueller" <robmueller@iinet.net.au> wrote:

> If I were you I'd call Dick Paterson!
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jeff sugheir
>
> About set to leave on our 1st RV trip ID-NY and back, I want to tune the 455. I have a timing light, tach meter, a new vacuum
> gauge, and very little experience on this vehicle. I have read all the past posts I could. They seem to say (with a Patterson
> distributor on a '76 engine) -
>
> plug the vacuum line to the distributor
> set idle at 1100 or set idle at 550-600 (different posts)
> aim for 12 deg initial timing with this distributor
> reconnect vacuum, start engine, and set idle
> adjust the 2 mixture screws on the distributor 1 at a time to max vacuum
> reset idle if necessary
> drive it and adjust from there, with pinging under load as the guideline for further timing adjustments.
>
> Something like that. So here's my thing: I drove from Florida to here last year after purchase, and other than some vapor lock it
> ran well enough, 9+mpg, and about a quart of oil every 800 miles.
>
> Last fall the distributor failed because of an improperly mounted cap and rotor so I bought the Springfield Ignition thru Applied.
> A GMC buddy here (another Jim) plopped the new distributor in and dialed it quickly saying "that sounds about right". Ran great and
> I did not think about again until this weekend, prepping for the big trip.
>
> So, I hooked up the light and meter (no vacuum gauge yet) and found the timing was at around 17 at 1100 rpm. Remember, it was
> running OK, no pinging even pulling up the hills around Boise on a hot day. I backed it down to 12, reset the idle and never
> touched the mixture. Started fine, maybe a little surging on idle, not sure yet. On the test drive it ran OK, but maybe did not
> seem quite as anxious to get up and go.
>
> The other strange thing is that the HVAC system misbehaved when the engine was under load, like it losing the vacuum needed to
> direct air flow - it moves to the floor vents until the engine load lightens.
>
> So, big question is should I advance the timing back up to the 17 range since it was not pinging before? Little question is does
> the HVAC behavior indicate a vacuum leak somewhere?
>
> Sorry for the longer post, but the anxiety before the big trip is getting to me. I want to make this as worry free for my wife as
> possible, as this experience will color everything that comes after.
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff
> --
> 1973/94 GMCII in Boise 76 455 with headers & Patterson distributor,1 ton front, 4 bags back, Precision Steering Gearbox
>
>
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Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list) Seattle, Wa.
Re: [GMCnet] Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214444 is a reply to message #214439] Mon, 15 July 2013 10:57 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Emery Stora is currently offline  Emery Stora   United States
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Registered: January 2011
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Senior Member
Jeff

You will find that it will be more peppy at higher advance but it is very important that it not ping. If you are not sure or if your hearing in a little impaired have someone else listen.

You will find that at higher elevations it will accept more advance without pinging. When I lived in Santa Fe at. 7300 feet I could advance it to 30 degrees with no pinging.

Boise, at 2700 feet, can tolerate more than 12 degrees base setting. If you are sure it doesn't ping go ahead with the 17 degrees.

Jim Kanomata at Applied GMC sells a MSD system which allows you to dial in the advance. It works well.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

On Jul 15, 2013, at 7:08 AM, Todd Sullivan <sgltrac@gmail.com> wrote:

> I second Robs suggestion.
>
> Todd Sullivan
>
> Sully
> 77 royale
> Seattle
> On Jul 15, 2013, at 7:58 AM, "Rob Mueller" <robmueller@iinet.net.au> wrote:
>
>> If I were you I'd call Dick Paterson!
>>
>> Regards,
>> Rob M.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: jeff sugheir
>>
>> About set to leave on our 1st RV trip ID-NY and back, I want to tune the 455. I have a timing light, tach meter, a new vacuum
>> gauge, and very little experience on this vehicle. I have read all the past posts I could. They seem to say (with a Patterson
>> distributor on a '76 engine) -
>>
>> plug the vacuum line to the distributor
>> set idle at 1100 or set idle at 550-600 (different posts)
>> aim for 12 deg initial timing with this distributor
>> reconnect vacuum, start engine, and set idle
>> adjust the 2 mixture screws on the distributor 1 at a time to max vacuum
>> reset idle if necessary
>> drive it and adjust from there, with pinging under load as the guideline for further timing adjustments.
>>
>> Something like that. So here's my thing: I drove from Florida to here last year after purchase, and other than some vapor lock it
>> ran well enough, 9+mpg, and about a quart of oil every 800 miles.
>>
>> Last fall the distributor failed because of an improperly mounted cap and rotor so I bought the Springfield Ignition thru Applied.
>> A GMC buddy here (another Jim) plopped the new distributor in and dialed it quickly saying "that sounds about right". Ran great and
>> I did not think about again until this weekend, prepping for the big trip.
>>
>> So, I hooked up the light and meter (no vacuum gauge yet) and found the timing was at around 17 at 1100 rpm. Remember, it was
>> running OK, no pinging even pulling up the hills around Boise on a hot day. I backed it down to 12, reset the idle and never
>> touched the mixture. Started fine, maybe a little surging on idle, not sure yet. On the test drive it ran OK, but maybe did not
>> seem quite as anxious to get up and go.
>>
>> The other strange thing is that the HVAC system misbehaved when the engine was under load, like it losing the vacuum needed to
>> direct air flow - it moves to the floor vents until the engine load lightens.
>>
>> So, big question is should I advance the timing back up to the 17 range since it was not pinging before? Little question is does
>> the HVAC behavior indicate a vacuum leak somewhere?
>>
>> Sorry for the longer post, but the anxiety before the big trip is getting to me. I want to make this as worry free for my wife as
>> possible, as this experience will color everything that comes after.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Jeff
>> --
>> 1973/94 GMCII in Boise 76 455 with headers & Patterson distributor,1 ton front, 4 bags back, Precision Steering Gearbox
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
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>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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> _______________________________________________
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Re: Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214446 is a reply to message #214424] Mon, 15 July 2013 11:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
xplorid is currently offline  xplorid   United States
Messages: 213
Registered: February 2012
Location: Boise
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Senior Member
Thx all - I just dialed this in "by ear" (not hearing impaired - yet), checked timing and it is a bit beyond the toothed indicator. About to go test it on the freeway going uphill for ping. Dr. Hubler says forget about the timing light, push the advance until it pings then back off ever so slightly. Call in to Dick Paterson. I'll check back in a bit for those of you watching.

Jeff


1974/94 GMCII by Explorer Manny 6.5 TD Al radiator 1 ton front 4 bags back
Re: Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214447 is a reply to message #214424] Mon, 15 July 2013 11:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
C Boyd is currently offline  C Boyd   United States
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Registered: April 2006
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Senior Member
Sir: The way I do mine: Idle needs to be about 700 or less. I would think that 1100 rpm would be allowing the mechanical advance to start moving which would give you a false initial setting. With the rpm at 700 set timing at 14* ( I do run hi-test). If you run the cheep stuff, 8-10* or as much as you can without spark knock under load. If you hi-rpm stall the tranny to check for spark knock do only for a couple of seconds as it heats the tranny fast. With the vacuum gauge set idle at 650-700 rpm and adjust the idle mixtures till they sound the same and run the smoothest at max vacuum. Do it slow as the engine needs a few seconds between adjustments to level out. Run your hands along the plug wires while running, if you get shocked, replace them. A new air filter & fuel filter does help.


xplorid wrote on Mon, 15 July 2013 09:55

About set to leave on our 1st RV trip ID-NY and back, I want to tune the 455. I have a timing light, tach meter, a new vacuum gauge, and very little experience on this vehicle. I have read all the past posts I could. They seem to say (with a Patterson distributor on a '76 engine) -

plug the vacuum line to the distributor
set idle at 1100 or set idle at 550-600 (different posts)
aim for 12 deg initial timing with this distributor
reconnect vacuum, start engine, and set idle
adjust the 2 mixture screws on the distributor 1 at a time to max vacuum
reset idle if necessary
drive it and adjust from there, with pinging under load as the guideline for further timing adjustments.

Something like that. So here's my thing: I drove from Florida to here last year after purchase, and other than some vapor lock it ran well enough, 9+mpg, and about a quart of oil every 800 miles.

Last fall the distributor failed because of an improperly mounted cap and rotor so I bought the Springfield Ignition thru Applied. A GMC buddy here (another Jim) plopped the new distributor in and dialed it quickly saying "that sounds about right". Ran great and I did not think about again until this weekend, prepping for the big trip.

So, I hooked up the light and meter (no vacuum gauge yet) and found the timing was at around 17 at 1100 rpm. Remember, it was running OK, no pinging even pulling up the hills around Boise on a hot day. I backed it down to 12, reset the idle and never touched the mixture. Started fine, maybe a little surging on idle, not sure yet. On the test drive it ran OK, but maybe did not seem quite as anxious to get up and go.

The other strange thing is that the HVAC system misbehaved when the engine was under load, like it losing the vacuum needed to direct air flow - it moves to the floor vents until the engine load lightens.

So, big question is should I advance the timing back up to the 17 range since it was not pinging before? Little question is does the HVAC behavior indicate a vacuum leak somewhere?

Sorry for the longer post, but the anxiety before the big trip is getting to me. I want to make this as worry free for my wife as possible, as this experience will color everything that comes after.

Thanks,
Jeff



C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
Re: Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214452 is a reply to message #214424] Mon, 15 July 2013 12:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
WD0AFQ is currently offline  WD0AFQ   United States
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Jeff, keep us posted along your way, if you have time. I love riding along as folks criss cross our great nation.
Dan


3 In Stainless Exhaust Headers One Ton All Discs/Reaction Arm 355 FD/Quad Bag/Alum Radiator Manny Tran/New eng. Holley EFI/10 Tire Air Monitoring System Solarized Coach/Upgraded Windows Satelite TV/On Demand Hot Water/3Way Refer
Re: Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214454 is a reply to message #214424] Mon, 15 July 2013 12:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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xplorid wrote on Mon, 15 July 2013 08:55

...The other strange thing is that the HVAC system misbehaved when the engine was under load, like it losing the vacuum needed to direct air flow - it moves to the floor vents until the engine load lightens. ...
That is not unusual when you have your foot on it. With the butterflies open, engine vacuum drops and the actuators that power the doors in the HVAC box try to spring back towards whatever setting they would be in with no vacuum.

I think Jim Bounds installs PVC vacuum tanks to help hold vacuum longer for that reason (and for another brake pedal pump or two if the engine dies and you need to stop without any vacuum to the brake booster).

A JC-4 vacuum pump would come on after the vacuum drops to a certain point for five seconds. Installing one of those might help.
Re: Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214455 is a reply to message #214424] Mon, 15 July 2013 12:42 Go to previous messageGo to next message
xplorid is currently offline  xplorid   United States
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Registered: February 2012
Location: Boise
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Senior Member
Thx again for the support.

On my test run engine ran better than ever, but just started to ping under full load, pedal to the floor, long mild uphill climb. Pulled over and retarded the timing just a bit. Re-ran the hill and no ping, ran great, actually accelerated from 65 to 75 by the end of the grade.

Stop and go performance is not quite right, a little stumble/surge behavior (just a little) but at least I have some confidence that we can adjust as needed, as we go from 2500 elevation to 250 in Western NY.

On the HVAC issue, that seems to be exactly the behavior - under full load the diverter does not have enough vacuum and switches from dash to floor until I let up on the gas. Not a big deal, it's all downhill from here to Ohio, right?

Jeff


1974/94 GMCII by Explorer Manny 6.5 TD Al radiator 1 ton front 4 bags back
Re: Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214461 is a reply to message #214455] Mon, 15 July 2013 13:49 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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xplorid wrote on Mon, 15 July 2013 12:42

...On the HVAC issue, that seems to be exactly the behavior - under full load the diverter does not have enough vacuum and switches from dash to floor until I let up on the gas. Not a big deal, it's all downhill from here to Ohio, right?

Jeff
OEM, there was a small vacuum accumlator (sphere) bolted to the outside of the blower box. I think that was supposed to hold vacuum on the HVAC stuff when engine vacuum dropped.

If you do have a vacuum leak somewhere in the HVAC system you can decide if you want to chase it down. This will help if you do:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/4637/1637_p19228.jpg

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/type-ii-dash-air-condition-modification/p19228.html

It looks like there should be a check valve at the arrow point from the "VACUUM SUPPLY HOSE" in the drawing, but apparently there isn't. Maybe that's all you need.

For the engine vacuum, I start with this one:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/5557/vacuum-connections.jpg

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/misc-junk/p40243-vacuum-connections.html

Re: Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214471 is a reply to message #214424] Mon, 15 July 2013 15:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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There are three components to the ignition timing on your engine. Base, vacuum, and centrifugal. A combination of all three of these set the ignition timing for the engine at various engine speeds and loads.

The centrifugal and vacuum advances are dynamic and change continuously as you are driving down the road.

That leaves the base timing which you are trying to read and set. On Dick Paterson's supplied distributors there is an instruction sheet and piece of paper with the advance curve he set the distributor to for your particular vehicle. On it should be the base timing number that he wants you to set the distributor for on installation.

Mine is 12 degrees BTDC using regular 87 gasoline.

To be able to read that with a timing light you need to cripple the vacuum advance (unplug the vacuum hose and plug it). You also need to make sure that the centrifugal advance is not activating.

The easiest way to prevent the centrifugal advance from operating is to run the engine as slow as practical. So in order to set or check the base timing you need the engine as idle or slower which is usually around 500 to 600 rpm.

At the 1100 RPM that you used the centrifugal advance was already starting to activate and what you saw was a combination of base plus some centrifugal advance.

So slow the engine down and set/read your basic timing again. On mine I found it would ping at 14 and not ping at 12 BTDC.


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214475 is a reply to message #214424] Mon, 15 July 2013 15:17 Go to previous messageGo to next message
xplorid is currently offline  xplorid   United States
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Dick P is going to call me back here in a few minutes, but to follow up on the last 2 posts - my reset described above was at under 600 rpm - again, the sweet spot is well beyond the end of the sawtooth scale. It was set with the dist vacuum disconnected and plugged, and the manifold vacuum disconnected and plugged.

This is a JimB rebuilt carb from just a year ago, and it does not appear to be GMCMH or maybe even Olds compared to the diagram above. The distributor advance is connected to a port in the front of the carb, the manifold connection is off the back of the carb. No T, no TVS, just straight connections to either dist or manifold.

Hmmm.


1974/94 GMCII by Explorer Manny 6.5 TD Al radiator 1 ton front 4 bags back
Re: Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214500 is a reply to message #214424] Mon, 15 July 2013 17:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JohnL455 is currently offline  JohnL455   United States
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IF your vac and cent are really working, those initial numbers seem high. I would think knock at heavy part throttle would be happening. Test---Hold it at like 2500 RPM and connect/ disconnect vac advance and watch the timing marks to see if it is working. More retarding means more degrees of throttle needed for same output and therefore less vacuum. You probably have a slight vac leak in the HVAC making it more sensitve to vac drop. Check for cracks and pinches in the hoses. I prefer the ported (stock) port on the Qjet left

John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Re: [GMCnet] Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214501 is a reply to message #214471] Mon, 15 July 2013 17:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
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Go to the Photo Site and in my photos you'll find a copy of the curve Dick used in my distributor.

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Burton

There are three components to the ignition timing on your engine. Base, vacuum, and centrifugal. A combination of all three of
these set the ignition timing for the engine at various engine speeds and loads.

The centrifugal and vacuum advances are dynamic and change continuously as you are driving down the road.

That leaves the base timing which you are trying to read and set. On Dick Paterson's supplied distributors there is an instruction
sheet and piece of paper with the advance curve he set the distributor to for your particular vehicle. On it should be the base
timing number that he wants you to set the distributor for on installation.

Mine is 12 degrees BTDC using regular 87 gasoline.

To be able to read that with a timing light you need to cripple the vacuum advance (unplug the vacuum hose and plug it). You also
need to make sure that the centrifugal advance is not activating.

The easiest way to prevent the centrifugal advance from operating is to run the engine as slow as practical. So in order to set or
check the base timing you need the engine as idle or slower which is usually around 500 to 600 rpm.

At the 1100 RPM that you used the centrifugal advance was already starting to activate and what you saw was a combination of base
plus some centrifugal advance.

So slow the engine down and set/read your basic timing again. On mine I found it would ping at 14 and not ping at 12 BTDC.
--
Ken

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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214539 is a reply to message #214471] Mon, 15 July 2013 21:06 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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Ken Burton wrote on Mon, 15 July 2013 16:03

There are three components to the ignition timing on your engine. Base, vacuum, and centrifugal. A combination of all three of these set the ignition timing for the engine at various engine speeds and loads.

The centrifugal and vacuum advances are dynamic and change continuously as you are driving down the road.

That leaves the base timing which you are trying to read and set. On Dick Paterson's supplied distributors there is an instruction sheet and piece of paper with the advance curve he set the distributor to for your particular vehicle. On it should be the base timing number that he wants you to set the distributor for on installation.

Mine is 12 degrees BTDC using regular 87 gasoline.

To be able to read that with a timing light you need to cripple the vacuum advance (unplug the vacuum hose and plug it). You also need to make sure that the centrifugal advance is not activating.

The easiest way to prevent the centrifugal advance from operating is to run the engine as slow as practical. So in order to set or check the base timing you need the engine as idle or slower which is usually around 500 to 600 rpm.

At the 1100 RPM that you used the centrifugal advance was already starting to activate and what you saw was a combination of base plus some centrifugal advance.

So slow the engine down and set/read your basic timing again. On mine I found it would ping at 14 and not ping at 12 BTDC.

Thanks Guys,

I gave up on the 1100 timing a couple of years back as it was just too hard to hit and impossible to check. So, I too went to the 5~600 and no vacuum set. I played with it a little, but I think I settled on 10° with 87 fuel. That was because it would have to be knocking with a big hammer before I could hear it.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214550 is a reply to message #214539] Mon, 15 July 2013 21:30 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
Senior Member

I gave up on the 1100 timing a couple of years back as it was just too hard to hit and impossible to check. So, I too went to the 5~600 and no vacuum set. I played with it a little, but I think I settled on 10° with 87 fuel. That was because it would have to be knocking with a big hammer before I could hear it.

Matt [/quote]

You need to borrow my ignition detonation detector. She sits on the front seat and listens for pinging that I can not hear.

She works cheap.

Yes, I know what a knock sensor is.


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214571 is a reply to message #214550] Tue, 16 July 2013 07:01 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
Senior Member
Ken Burton wrote on Mon, 15 July 2013 22:30


I gave up on the 1100 timing a couple of years back as it was just too hard to hit and impossible to check. So, I too went to the 5~600 and no vacuum set. I played with it a little, but I think I settled on 10° with 87 fuel. That was because it would have to be knocking with a big hammer before I could hear it.

Matt


You need to borrow my ignition detonation detector. She sits on the front seat and listens for pinging that I can not hear.

She works cheap.

Yes, I know what a knock sensor is. [/quote]
Maybe at some point we could get yours to calibrate mine....
Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: [GMCnet] Tune and timing B4 the Big Trip [message #214574 is a reply to message #214433] Tue, 16 July 2013 07:34 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Steven Ferguson is currently offline  Steven Ferguson   United States
Messages: 3447
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
Senior Member
NON-GMC Jon, my Alma Mater. I remember getting knothole tickets to watch
the St. Cloud Rocks (MN Millers farm team)for 5 cents. Doc Hollenbeck
spanked me into this world. He has a wing of the University named after
him.
Steve F.


On Mon, Jul 15, 2013 at 7:42 AM, Jon Roche <lqqkatjon@gmail.com> wrote:

>
>
> Can't help you with the tuning, but I will watch this post to see what
> they come up with.
>
> but if you are needing an overnight or couple night place to stay, in
> Central Minnesota. let me know.
>
> St. Cloud, is right on I-94. and I am probably 3 minutes off the
> interstate.
>
> Jon
> Wishing I had time and money to go cross country.
> --
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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--
Take care,
Steve
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