Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Foam Insulation Removal
Foam Insulation Removal [message #210602] |
Mon, 10 June 2013 16:55  |
davidlive
 Messages: 143 Registered: November 2011 Location: Simi valley, Southern Cal...
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is scraping out the Foam Insulation, pretty much the only way to get rid of it ?
I started scraping it out, but it took me like 30 mins to clear out just one small panel 3'x2' ish about in size.
Thanks David
P.S. i don't have any power where i'm working on my coach.
78 Royal #749
74 #136
Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and torque is how far you take the wall with you when you hit it.
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Re: Foam Insulation Removal [message #210603 is a reply to message #210602] |
Mon, 10 June 2013 16:59   |
tphipps
 Messages: 3005 Registered: August 2004 Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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Perhaps you could try one of the cordless multi-purpose tools. Every GMC project needs a new tool. Actually, they are very useful. I have a corded version, I'll get a cordless some day, hum, Father's Day is almost here.
Tom, MS II
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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Re: Foam Insulation Removal [message #210605 is a reply to message #210602] |
Mon, 10 June 2013 17:09   |
davidlive
 Messages: 143 Registered: November 2011 Location: Simi valley, Southern Cal...
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i do have some cordless tools, like drill gun, skill saw, some impact guns, disc grinder.
but i'm at a loss at what i could use in the drill gun or disc grinder that wouldn't damage the skin as well.
David
78 Royal #749
74 #136
Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and torque is how far you take the wall with you when you hit it.
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Re: Foam Insulation Removal [message #210609 is a reply to message #210605] |
Mon, 10 June 2013 17:36   |
phil
 Messages: 24 Registered: July 2012 Location: Stevensville, Montana
Karma: 1
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David,
When Tom says multi purpose tools, he is talking about a tool that is made by Fein called a multimaster oscillating tool (their patents expired last year so there are now knock-offs by Rockwell, sonic crafter, porter cable availsble). Cost runs from $50 to over $300.--remember, you get what you pay for. Another tool that might help you is made by Jore Mfg called the Recipro tool. They are attachments that go onto your sawzall and that will turn the sawzall into a powered scraper.
Best of Luck,
Phil
Thanks,
Phil
'76 Eleganza II
Stevensville, Mt.
Montana-where Californians move to.
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Re: Foam Insulation Removal [message #210621 is a reply to message #210609] |
Mon, 10 June 2013 18:07   |
tphipps
 Messages: 3005 Registered: August 2004 Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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To expand a little, the flat knife blade should slide under the foam and not damage the body metal. You would be cutting flat against the metal, parallel to the metal surface, separating the foam from the metal. The blades do not move much, but cut by vibrating at a high speed. Pretty good cordless ones are at the big box stores, and I think Harbor Freight might even have a cordless one. HF has expanded their available models.
Worth a shot.
Tom, MS II
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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Re: Foam Insulation Removal [message #210639 is a reply to message #210602] |
Mon, 10 June 2013 21:40   |
Adrien G.
 Messages: 474 Registered: May 2008 Location: Burns Flat, OK 73624
Karma: 1
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David,
I used a 2" & 3" stiff scraper to remove the foam. In 30 min I scrapped 3 panels easy. With the 2" scraper dig under the foam, then use the 3" to remove the rest. I didn't use any hammers for fear of causing a dent on the skin.
The first panel I shaved the foam flat and added sheet foam over it, that was messy and time consuming, and not satisfactory.
I used foiled sheet foam, and can foam to glue the sheets to the skin and fill the gaps and edges, then alum tape to cover the raw edges and foam cuts. Put pressure on the foam panels (dinning canopy polls work good) to keep the can foam expansion from pushing the panel out from the rib surface
When doing the walls, look very closely at the floor to wall areas, there are a lot of gaps, holes, separations to let air, dirt, bugs, etc in.
It worked for me. Happy foaming.
Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook (26-3) Mods LS3.70 FD / Reaction Sys / 80mm Front&Intermidiate / Hydroboost / 16" Tires / Frame Rebuild / Interior Rebuild
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
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Re: Foam Insulation Removal [message #210716 is a reply to message #210602] |
Tue, 11 June 2013 16:20   |
davidlive
 Messages: 143 Registered: November 2011 Location: Simi valley, Southern Cal...
Karma: -1
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i have a bunch of other cordless 18v Makita's so i decided to stick with the same brand.
they really packed that crap in there the stuff is a real pain to remove. 1" deep it's going to take me probably a week by myself to get it roughed out.
Thanks David
78 Royal #749
74 #136
Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and torque is how far you take the wall with you when you hit it.
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Re: [GMCnet] Foam Insulation Removal [message #210738 is a reply to message #210639] |
Tue, 11 June 2013 19:44   |
Jim Miller
 Messages: 501 Registered: March 2008
Karma: 10
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On Jun 10, 2013, at 10:40 PM, Adrien Genesoto wrote:
> I used a 2" & 3" stiff scraper to remove the foam. In 30 min I scrapped 3 panels easy. With the 2" scraper dig under the foam, then use the 3" to remove the rest.
By the time I finished the foam removal in the Eleganza I had become quite proficient at it. Using the "GMC Multi-tool" with a 1-1/4" scraper blade I would slice two parallel lines through a section of foam about 1-1/2" apart, use the tool to pop out the foam between the lines and then use the opened-up space to attack the remaining foam by slicing the blade between the foam and the metal skin. Once I had the blade buried to the spindle I could then cleanly pop out large chunks.
--Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza II
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH
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Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza II
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH
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Re: [GMCnet] Foam Insulation Removal [message #211105 is a reply to message #210716] |
Fri, 14 June 2013 08:32   |
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USAussie
 Messages: 15912 Registered: July 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Makes sense, I have a complete set of DeWalt 19 (or is it 18) VDC tools in Sydney, when the NiCad batteries died I replaced them
with Lithium Ion; wasn't cheap but they are yonks better than the NiCad's!
From time to time I get rapped on the knuckles for sending people to Harbor Freight the paragraph below is a clear reason to do so!
I was at Sears last week to buy a sanding belt for John's 6" - 48" sander. Was told "we don't carry them at the store anymore; you
can order them at that terminal over there." I plunked my butt down and found them; they were $8.99 each 12-15 days delivery. I
wasn't too fussed about the $8.69 but I wanted it THEN not in 12-15 days! As I walked out of the tool department the clerk
apologized for not stocking them I noted "well I tried to buy American but I guess I'll have to head to Harbor Freight." I did and
got FIVE belts for $14.99.
Damn, nearly forgot why I included the Sears story, they had blades for the "GMC Tool" they sell they were three for $42,00 HF has
them for about $7-9 each and they have been redesigned so they'll fit other machines.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Morrison
i have a bunch of other cordless 18v Makita's so i decided to stick with the same brand.
they really packed that crap in there the stuff is a real pain to remove. 1" deep it's going to take me probably a week by myself to
get it roughed out.
Thanks David
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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Re: [GMCnet] Foam Insulation Removal [message #211121 is a reply to message #211105] |
Sat, 15 June 2013 00:52   |
sgltrac
 Messages: 2797 Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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I recently returned a 1/2" ratchet to sears that had been living on the footwell of my lesbaru for about three months waiting for me to simultaneously remember / have the time to detour by to get my "free replacement". When I took it in the guy looked at it and reached for a drawer below the register and quickly removed a similar Craftsman 1/2" ratchet which he handed to me with the " I diddnt steal it" yellow sticker on it, no packaging. I noticed that it was not a new ratchet immediately by the pipe cheater bar cuts in the handle and some guy named Bart had engraved his name into the side of the gear head. That did not bother me nearly as much as the banana shape of the handle. I pointed this out to the sales clerk and he remedied the situation by digging another ratchet out of the drawer which was apparently historically owned by BJ. This ratchet had a straight handle and the gear head worked. It had a couple of cheater bar cuts in it as well which made it a pretty like k
ind and quality replacement for mine.
It used to be when you broke a craftsman tool you got a NEW one.
Times change I guess
Todd Sullivan
Sully
77 royale
Seattle
On Jun 14, 2013, at 6:32 AM, "Rob Mueller" <robmueller@iinet.net.au> wrote:
> Makes sense, I have a complete set of DeWalt 19 (or is it 18) VDC tools in Sydney, when the NiCad batteries died I replaced them
> with Lithium Ion; wasn't cheap but they are yonks better than the NiCad's!
>
> From time to time I get rapped on the knuckles for sending people to Harbor Freight the paragraph below is a clear reason to do so!
>
> I was at Sears last week to buy a sanding belt for John's 6" - 48" sander. Was told "we don't carry them at the store anymore; you
> can order them at that terminal over there." I plunked my butt down and found them; they were $8.99 each 12-15 days delivery. I
> wasn't too fussed about the $8.69 but I wanted it THEN not in 12-15 days! As I walked out of the tool department the clerk
> apologized for not stocking them I noted "well I tried to buy American but I guess I'll have to head to Harbor Freight." I did and
> got FIVE belts for $14.99.
> Damn, nearly forgot why I included the Sears story, they had blades for the "GMC Tool" they sell they were three for $42,00 HF has
> them for about $7-9 each and they have been redesigned so they'll fit other machines.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Morrison
>
> i have a bunch of other cordless 18v Makita's so i decided to stick with the same brand.
>
> they really packed that crap in there the stuff is a real pain to remove. 1" deep it's going to take me probably a week by myself to
> get it roughed out.
>
> Thanks David
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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Re: [GMCnet] Foam Insulation Removal [message #211152 is a reply to message #211143] |
Sat, 15 June 2013 09:41   |
sgltrac
 Messages: 2797 Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Matt,
So true. I did however break my 1/2" ratchet while trying to loosen my drive shaft nut with about 3' of cheater bar over the ratchet when it failed. Twisted the lug off my matco breaker bar next. Then I borrowed a 3/4" set and managed to not break that.
The poor craftsman never had a chance
Todd Sullivan
Sully
77 royale
Seattle
On Jun 15, 2013, at 7:00 AM, Matt Colie <matt7323tze@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> sgltrac wrote on Sat, 15 June 2013 01:52
>> <snip>
>> It used to be when you broke a craftsman tool you got a NEW one.
>>
>> Times change I guess
>>
>> Todd Sullivan
>
> Todd,
>
> It has been a long time since you got a new tool at Sears.
>
> For many years now, when you go in with a ratchet you would just get a rebuild kit.
>
> I have a screwdriver to go back still, but at least around, Sears has reduced the number of Paint and Hardware stores to Zip and there are no convenient Sears in striking range.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie
> '73 Glacier 23 Chaumière (say show-me-air)
> Now with 4 working Rear Brakes
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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