Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Generator fuel line help please etc
| Generator fuel line help please etc [message #208370] |
Mon, 20 May 2013 07:42  |
mickey szilagyi
Messages: 273
Registered: January 2013
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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We are slowly making progress putting a 5000 KW RV Generac in our 77 Kingsley and would greatly appreciate input on several items we are now addressing on the fuel line.
The fuel line coming from the fuel tank is a 1/4 line. The fuel line size barb at the generator fuel filter and pump is 5/16. First of all, are rubber fuel lines flexible enough to be put on various size barbs? Can we put the 1/4 ID rubber hose on a 5/16 barbed fitting as well as a 5/16 on a 3/8 fitting. If so it will make what we are trying to do much easier.
We would like to use a through bulkhead barbed fitting to go from underneath the coach up into the generator compartment. We would like to transition the hose size from 1/4 to 5/16 under the coach just before the bulkhead fitting. We have searched and all we can find are straight through bulkhead fittings, either 5/16 or 3/8, more common is the 3/8. That where the question is on putting the 5/16 hose onto the 3/8 inch barb. Plus we'd like to find a through bulkhead 90 degree fitting. If anyone knows of a source for a 3/8 90 degree through bulkhead barbed on both ends fitting we'd appreciate it.
We would like then to run a 5/16 line from the bulkhead fitting to the fuel filter and pump with a shut off valve just before the fuel filter so we can run the gas out of the generator when it's not in use to keep ethanol from sitting inside the generator. We have found several metal shut off valves 5/16 barbed on both ends so we think we're set there.
Any comments on the pros and cons of what we are trying to do would be much appreciated and sources for the fittings we are intending to use. Again, putting different sized hoses on different sized barbed fittings, within reason.
Secondly we are wondering about the OEM partition between the battery area and generator area. We have built a frame structure to support the Generac and put an aluminum plate across the entire bottom of the compartment closing it off to dirt, dust, water and what have you. We cut a hole in the bottom of the plate to accommodate the bottom vent on the generator where the cooling air is expelled. This generator sucks in air at the top and forces the hot air out the bottom. We believe the vent size on the generator compartment door is sufficient in size to accommodate the required air volume.
We are planning on using two golf cart batteries on a stainless steel battery tray. We were going to put the OEM partition between the battery area and the generator area but are thinking of leaving it out so air can more easily flow to the generator. The partition would somewhat restrict the air as the door vent is near the battery area and cooling and combustion air would need to get by the partition to get to the generator. The only space where that can occur is between the partition at the front and the door which might be a little restrictive. That's why we'd like to leave the partition out all together. Is there any reason the batteries must be partitioned off from the generator that we are not aware of?
Finally one more quick thing. We believe we have the OEM buzz box which will be charging the two golf cart batteries through the original wiring system. Is there something we should install to better charge and protect the batteries?
Thanks all for reading through this and any comments and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
So far so good. We've been taking pictures and will post them when we get this project completed.
Mickey in Michigan
77 Kingsley, 403, mostly OEM, Lansing/Gregory, MI
Mickey
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
[Updated on: Mon, 20 May 2013 07:45] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Generator fuel line help please etc [message #208373 is a reply to message #208370] |
Mon, 20 May 2013 08:24  |
GMCNUSA
Messages: 283
Registered: August 2006
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| Mickey Szilagyi wrote on Mon, 20 May 2013 08:42 |
We are slowly making progress putting a 5000 KW RV Generac in our 77 Kingsley and would greatly appreciate input on several items we are now addressing on the fuel line.
We are planning on using two golf cart batteries on a stainless steel battery tray. We were going to put the OEM partition between the battery area and the generator area but are thinking of leaving it out so air can more easily flow to the generator. The partition would somewhat restrict the air as the door vent is near the battery area and cooling and combustion air would need to get by the partition to get to the generator. The only space where that can occur is between the partition at the front and the door which might be a little restrictive. That's why we'd like to leave the partition out all together. Is there any reason the batteries must be partitioned off from the generator that we are not aware of?
Mickey in Michigan
77 Kingsley, 403, mostly OEM, Lansing/Gregory, MI
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Mickey,
I would not remove the divider wall from battery area because of the heat from generator heating the batteries. Lead acid batteries don't do well when hot.
Larry Dilk
Indianapolis, IN
76 Eleganza II
Patterson 455,Turbo City TBI,
Just LOVE It!
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| Re: Generator fuel line help please etc [message #208381 is a reply to message #208370] |
Mon, 20 May 2013 09:03 |
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RF_Burns
Messages: 2277
Registered: June 2008
Location: S. Ontario, Canada
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Mickey,
I suggest you look for a local Industrial fluid control business. They should have in-stock all the fittings you need and in my case at much less cost than any hardware or big box store.
| Mickey Szilagyi wrote on Mon, 20 May 2013 08:42 |
We are slowly making progress putting a 5000 KW RV Generac in our 77 Kingsley and would greatly appreciate input on several items we are now addressing on the fuel line.
The fuel line coming from the fuel tank is a 1/4 line. The fuel line size barb at the generator fuel filter and pump is 5/16. First of all, are rubber fuel lines flexible enough to be put on various size barbs? Can we put the 1/4 ID rubber hose on a 5/16 barbed fitting as well as a 5/16 on a 3/8 fitting. If so it will make what we are trying to do much easier.
We would like to use a through bulkhead barbed fitting to go from underneath the coach up into the generator compartment. We would like to transition the hose size from 1/4 to 5/16 under the coach just before the bulkhead fitting. We have searched and all we can find are straight through bulkhead fittings, either 5/16 or 3/8, more common is the 3/8. That where the question is on putting the 5/16 hose onto the 3/8 inch barb. Plus we'd like to find a through bulkhead 90 degree fitting. If anyone knows of a source for a 3/8 90 degree through bulkhead barbed on both ends fitting we'd appreciate it.
We would like then to run a 5/16 line from the bulkhead fitting to the fuel filter and pump with a shut off valve just before the fuel filter so we can run the gas out of the generator when it's not in use to keep ethanol from sitting inside the generator. We have found several metal shut off valves 5/16 barbed on both ends so we think we're set there.
Any comments on the pros and cons of what we are trying to do would be much appreciated and sources for the fittings we are intending to use. Again, putting different sized hoses on different sized barbed fittings, within reason.
Secondly we are wondering about the OEM partition between the battery area and generator area. We have built a frame structure to support the Generac and put an aluminum plate across the entire bottom of the compartment closing it off to dirt, dust, water and what have you. We cut a hole in the bottom of the plate to accommodate the bottom vent on the generator where the cooling air is expelled. This generator sucks in air at the top and forces the hot air out the bottom. We believe the vent size on the generator compartment door is sufficient in size to accommodate the required air volume.
We are planning on using two golf cart batteries on a stainless steel battery tray. We were going to put the OEM partition between the battery area and the generator area but are thinking of leaving it out so air can more easily flow to the generator. The partition would somewhat restrict the air as the door vent is near the battery area and cooling and combustion air would need to get by the partition to get to the generator. The only space where that can occur is between the partition at the front and the door which might be a little restrictive. That's why we'd like to leave the partition out all together. Is there any reason the batteries must be partitioned off from the generator that we are not aware of?
Finally one more quick thing. We believe we have the OEM buzz box which will be charging the two golf cart batteries through the original wiring system. Is there something we should install to better charge and protect the batteries?
Thanks all for reading through this and any comments and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
So far so good. We've been taking pictures and will post them when we get this project completed.
Mickey in Michigan
77 Kingsley, 403, mostly OEM, Lansing/Gregory, MI
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Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
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| Re: Generator fuel line help please etc [message #208391 is a reply to message #208370] |
Mon, 20 May 2013 11:48 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| Mickey Szilagyi wrote on Mon, 20 May 2013 08:42 |
We are slowly making progress putting a 5000 KW RV Generac in our 77 Kingsley and would greatly appreciate input on several items we are now addressing on the fuel line.
The fuel line coming from the fuel tank is a 1/4 line. The fuel line size barb at the generator fuel filter and pump is 5/16. First of all, are rubber fuel lines flexible enough to be put on various size barbs? Can we put the 1/4 ID rubber hose on a 5/16 barbed fitting as well as a 5/16 on a 3/8 fitting. If so it will make what we are trying to do much easier.
We would like to use a through bulkhead barbed fitting to go from underneath the coach up into the generator compartment. We would like to transition the hose size from 1/4 to 5/16 under the coach just before the bulkhead fitting. We have searched and all we can find are straight through bulkhead fittings, either 5/16 or 3/8, more common is the 3/8. That where the question is on putting the 5/16 hose onto the 3/8 inch barb. Plus we'd like to find a through bulkhead 90 degree fitting. If anyone knows of a source for a 3/8 90 degree through bulkhead barbed on both ends fitting we'd appreciate it.
We would like then to run a 5/16 line from the bulkhead fitting to the fuel filter and pump with a shut off valve just before the fuel filter so we can run the gas out of the generator when it's not in use to keep ethanol from sitting inside the generator. We have found several metal shut off valves 5/16 barbed on both ends so we think we're set there.
Any comments on the pros and cons of what we are trying to do would be much appreciated and sources for the fittings we are intending to use. Again, putting different sized hoses on different sized barbed fittings, within reason.
Secondly we are wondering about the OEM partition between the battery area and generator area. We have built a frame structure to support the Generac and put an aluminum plate across the entire bottom of the compartment closing it off to dirt, dust, water and what have you. We cut a hole in the bottom of the plate to accommodate the bottom vent on the generator where the cooling air is expelled. This generator sucks in air at the top and forces the hot air out the bottom. We believe the vent size on the generator compartment door is sufficient in size to accommodate the required air volume.
We are planning on using two golf cart batteries on a stainless steel battery tray. We were going to put the OEM partition between the battery area and the generator area but are thinking of leaving it out so air can more easily flow to the generator. The partition would somewhat restrict the air as the door vent is near the battery area and cooling and combustion air would need to get by the partition to get to the generator. The only space where that can occur is between the partition at the front and the door which might be a little restrictive. That's why we'd like to leave the partition out all together. Is there any reason the batteries must be partitioned off from the generator that we are not aware of?
Finally one more quick thing. We believe we have the OEM buzz box which will be charging the two golf cart batteries through the original wiring system. Is there something we should install to better charge and protect the batteries?
Thanks all for reading through this and any comments and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
So far so good. We've been taking pictures and will post them when we get this project completed.
Mickey in Michigan
77 Kingsley, 403, mostly OEM, Lansing/Gregory, MI
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Mickey,
I'm hoping you mean 5000W as a very large rail engine is 5000KW.
The trick you want to do with the fuel line is not really tough, but you will have to hunt up the brass. Start with Western Brass and Weatherhead as sources. Most of the complete autoparts dealers have fitting from one or the other. (But, an angle bulkhead is a bit strange.) They can be bought on the web - too. If you buy the bulkhead fitting as either 1/8 or 1/4 FPT on both ends, you can then get a 1/4 barb for one end and the 3/8 barb for the other and make your transition there.
And yes, keep the house bank away from the APU (genset) heat. Leave the divider and may add holes elsewhere on the door. The pull-out tray is essential as the batteries will require maintenance. Be sure the tray you order will allow you to get at all the cells. It won't be cheap, but it will be worth the money.
If the original buss-box is still there, replace it with a modern three-stage (or better) converter/charger. Those old converters have killed more good batteries than one might ever believe. Don't throw it away, they are a great 12V bench supply. Go on the web and hunt up a an Iota or Progressive Dynamics 45~50 amp unit. PD is in Marshall and they frequently have refurbs with will full warranty at much reduced prices.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: Generator fuel line help please etc [message #208403 is a reply to message #208370] |
Mon, 20 May 2013 13:43 |
mickey szilagyi
Messages: 273
Registered: January 2013
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Thanks to all that responded. We'll place the partition back in between the generator and batteries. We'll do a bit more research and change out the battery charging system so we don't fry the batteries. We bought the Stainless battery tray from JimK and it's supposed to be a good one. Once we get the fuel lines hooked up and all the electrical we'll fire up the generator and see how hot it gets inside the compartment - it's a tight fit. We'd like to install a remote thermometer in the compartment just to keep tabs on the temp but that's for another day.
Yes, the generator is a 5000W. No it wasn't a typo I just was lazy and didn't remember the correct lingo. Too bad though, we'd be able to supply a whole camp ground with electricity.
And we learned not to throw away anything we take out of the coach.
Thanks again to all for the input.
Mickey/Chris
77 Kingsley, 403, Lansing/Gregory MI
Mickey
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
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| Re: Generator fuel line help please etc [message #208417 is a reply to message #208403] |
Mon, 20 May 2013 19:37 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| Mickey Szilagyi wrote on Mon, 20 May 2013 14:43 |
Thanks to all that responded.
<snip>
We'd like to install a remote thermometer in the compartment just to keep tabs on the temp but that's for another day.
<snip>
Mickey/Chris
77 Kingsley, 403, Lansing/Gregory MI
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Mickey,
To monitor the temperature inside the APU box just go get any cheap electronic indoor/outdoor thermometer. You don't need laboratory equipment just to find out if you are/are not in trouble.
Other question:
How can you be in Gregory and Lansing? They were an hour apart last time I looked.
Matt - in striking range if you need help.
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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