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[GMCnet] Machinist's Workshop... GOOD TO KNOW INFO...... [message #193139] Mon, 17 December 2012 09:36 Go to next message
k2gkk is currently offline  k2gkk   United States
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Registered: November 2009
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Senior Member

I believe this info has been shown here
previously but better twice than never!


~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


Machinist's Workshop recently published some information
on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they
tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.

Below listed, a subjective test was made of all the
popular penetrates, with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically
rusted" environment.

Average torque load to loosen:

No Oil used .........516 pounds

WD-40 ...............238 pounds

PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench .......127 pounds

Kano Kroil ..........106 pounds

ATF - Acetone mix.....53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50
automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this
"home brew" released bolts better than any commercial
product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we
all now use it with equally good results.

Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as
Kroil for 20% of the price.

ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF
and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

NOTE: ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid

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Re: [GMCnet] Machinist's Workshop... GOOD TO KNOW INFO...... [message #193141 is a reply to message #193139] Mon, 17 December 2012 09:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
midlf is currently offline  midlf   United States
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Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
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k2gkk wrote on Mon, 17 December 2012 09:36


ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF
and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

NOTE: ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid





The supposed mechanism here is that the lighter component (acetone or lacquer thinner) penetrates first and fast and as it evaporates off and out it sucks in the ATF. Also there is the thought that the mix is lighter than ATF alone and thus flows better. Why ATF instead of a light oil? I don't know. Perhaps some of the additives to ATF (detergents, friction modifiers and whatever else is in it) make it a better choice. Perhaps someone who actually has some facts (MattC or EmeryS) can chime in here.

Whichever you use remember that the acetone or lacquer thinner is more than happy to mess up what ever it comes in contact with that can be affected by that solvent.



Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
Re: [GMCnet] Machinist's Workshop... GOOD TO KNOW INFO...... [message #193145 is a reply to message #193139] Mon, 17 December 2012 10:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Mr ERFisher is currently offline  Mr ERFisher   United States
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Registered: August 2005
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Senior Member
here is the definitive work done by JR
---------------------------------------
Subject: [GMCnet] Loosening Rusted bolts Testing!
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org


Here are the results of the test of the ATF/Acetone verses PS/Acetone.

<http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31377>
or
http://tinyurl.com/yleyudk

Although neither material mixes into a homogeneous solution the ATF/
Acetone combination does not separate very rapidly as compared with
the PS/Acetone combination that separates almost immediately after
shaking.

I have not yet tried the AFT/Acetone mixture, but I have several
friends that use it and swear by it.

The pressurized sprayers are the best solution when using this mix as
Bob & Terry have suggested.

http://tinyurl.com/ylr7xvd

Harbor Freight also sells cans like that:

*ITEM 1102-DAA **http://tinyurl.com/yg5587q*
*ITEM 65297-DAA **http://tinyurl.com/ygb46m8

Seem to be only available in the stores (harborfreightusa.com) and not
On-Line.

You can draw your own conclusions!

J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
TZE Zone Restorations
77 Eleganza Custom (For Sale)
1975 Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan

I also show this info
http://www.gmcmotorhome.info/skin.html#RUSTED

and some ways to dispense it
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/plastic-bottles/p32035-slide214.html

I use it every where
gene


On Mon, Dec 17, 2012 at 7:36 AM, D C _Mac_ Macdonald <k2gkk@hotmail.com>wrote:

>
> I believe this info has been shown here
> previously but better twice than never!
>

--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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Re: [GMCnet] Machinist's Workshop... GOOD TO KNOW INFO...... [message #193150 is a reply to message #193145] Mon, 17 December 2012 10:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
midlf is currently offline  midlf   United States
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Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
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Mr ERFisher wrote on Mon, 17 December 2012 10:11

here is the definitive work done by JR
---------------------------------------
Subject: [GMCnet] Loosening Rusted bolts Testing!


<big snip>


The pressurized sprayers are the best solution when using this mix as
Bob & Terry have suggested.

http://tinyurl.com/ylr7xvd

Harbor Freight also sells cans like that:

*ITEM 1102-DAA **http://tinyurl.com/yg5587q*
*ITEM 65297-DAA **http://tinyurl.com/ygb46m8

Seem to be only available in the stores (harborfreightusa.com) and not
On-Line.

J.R. Wright

And then Gene adds:
and some ways to dispense it
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/plastic-bottles/p32035-slide214.html

I use it every where
gene





The re-loadable spray cans have not been available for some time from Harbor Fright.

Gene - I can't read the picture well enough to find the answer. What are you using for the connectors?


Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
Re: [GMCnet] Machinist's Workshop... GOOD TO KNOW INFO...... [message #193196 is a reply to message #193139] Mon, 17 December 2012 17:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
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Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
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Senior Member
Mac,

Correct!

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/random-photos/p40657-penetrating-oil-test.html

Regards,
Rob M.


-----Original Message-----
From: D C _Mac_ Macdonald

I believe this info has been shown here
previously but better twice than never!

D C "Mac" Macdonald

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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] Machinist's Workshop... GOOD TO KNOW INFO...... [message #193274 is a reply to message #193196] Tue, 18 December 2012 09:42 Go to previous message
habbyguy is currently offline  habbyguy   United States
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Registered: May 2012
Location: Mesa, AZ
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I have been mixing up my own witch's brew for my bicycle chain lube for years - 50% acetone and 50% synthetic motor oil. I found that it penetrated and stayed in place a LOT better than any commercial lube I'd ever used. I never thought about using it in place of penetrating oil, but I'll have to try that... I could have used that just a couple days ago struggling with a REALLY stuck bolt on my son's Subaru (ended up using PB Blaster, lots of heat, and turned the wrench with a floor jack...). Shocked

Mark Hickey Mesa, AZ 1978 Royale Center Kitchen
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