Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Winterization
| [GMCnet] Winterization [message #188359] |
Fri, 26 October 2012 15:32  |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Senior Member |
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Dang! Mister Winter is apparently coming in tonight.
I hadn't done the Winter prep yet and I'm not sure of
all the places where water can collect and freeze.
I opened the lavvy faucets and turned the pump on.
Nothing bad in the black tank, so I opened it up so
water from the sink drain lines could go there.
I found two valves near the water pump in the right
rear that led to a TEE that went through the floor.
Got both of those opened up and water is draining
out from multiple places. Told Judy it was just
running along the underside of the floor in many
directions and then down several frame members.
Opened the "pop-off" at top of water heater and
HOPE that will allow that tank to drain.
Sent Judy to WallyWorld for "pink stuff" and will
dump that into the drains.
Water pump speeded up and air came out of faucets.
Hope that will be good enough for tonight and also
tomorrow night.
Any comments? This is what I have done for our
travel trailer in the past. Have I missed any
danger spots?
Temps are forecast to get down to 28F.
We are trying to get ready to head out of town
this afternoon until tomorrow afternoon.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ~ TZE166V101966 ~ ~ ~ ~
~ ~ ~ '76 ex-Palm Beach ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
______________
*[ ]~~~[][ ][|\
*--OO--[]---O-*
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| Re: [GMCnet] Winterization [message #188369 is a reply to message #188361] |
Fri, 26 October 2012 16:28  |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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Like Dan says, I wouldn't worry too much about 28 degrees but, if you are, stick a little electric space heater inside to keep it above freezing. That's about the extent of winterization I have to do here in Tucson.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: [GMCnet] Winterization [message #188385 is a reply to message #188379] |
Fri, 26 October 2012 17:58 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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The valve in the toilet needs to be drained as this is probably the first
place that water will freeze. $50 for replacement valve.
On Fri, Oct 26, 2012 at 4:17 PM, Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au>wrote:
> Braggart! ;>)
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Carl Stouffer
>
> Like Dan says, I wouldn't worry too much about 28 degrees but, if you are,
> stick a little electric space heater inside to keep it
> above freezing. That's about the extent of winterization I have to do
> here in Tucson.
> --
> Carl
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
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Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
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| Re: [GMCnet] Winterization [message #188393 is a reply to message #188359] |
Fri, 26 October 2012 16:24 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Mac,
Buy one of these:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/blow-out-hose/38534
Purge out all the water being careful not to deadhead the water system with high pressure air - make sure one tap or drain is open
at all times.
Regards,
Rob M.
_____
From: D C _Mac_ Macdonald [mailto:k2gkk@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 7:33 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org; GMC Rob Mueller
Subject: Winterization
Dang! Mister Winter is apparently coming in tonight.
I hadn't done the Winter prep yet and I'm not sure of
all the places where water can collect and freeze.
I opened the lavvy faucets and turned the pump on.
Nothing bad in the black tank, so I opened it up so
water from the sink drain lines could go there.
I found two valves near the water pump in the right
rear that led to a TEE that went through the floor.
Got both of those opened up and water is draining
out from multiple places. Told Judy it was just
running along the underside of the floor in many
directions and then down several frame members.
Opened the "pop-off" at top of water heater and
HOPE that will allow that tank to drain.
Sent Judy to WallyWorld for "pink stuff" and will
dump that into the drains.
Water pump speeded up and air came out of faucets.
Hope that will be good enough for tonight and also
tomorrow night.
Any comments? This is what I have done for our
travel trailer in the past. Have I missed any
danger spots?
Temps are forecast to get down to 28F.
We are trying to get ready to head out of town
this afternoon until tomorrow afternoon.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ~ TZE166V101966 ~ ~ ~ ~
~ ~ ~ '76 ex-Palm Beach ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
______________
*[ ]~~~[][ ][|\
*--OO--[]---O-*
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Winterization [message #188404 is a reply to message #188359] |
Fri, 26 October 2012 20:06 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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You're supposed to drain the air compressor tank year round for corrosion reasons as well. A good reminder to do it now.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Winterization [message #188411 is a reply to message #188359] |
Fri, 26 October 2012 20:36 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Remember to protect your macerator.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Winterization [message #188418 is a reply to message #188411] |
Fri, 26 October 2012 22:17 |
Galen
Messages: 146
Registered: November 2011
Location: New Virginia, IA
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Mike - can you elaborate on macerator winterizing.I've never had one before....put one in this summer. I put it off a sanitary T coming through the stock dump valve, and put a valterra valve on one side of the T for gravity dumping, and the macerator on the other. Copied someones setup on the photo site. Do you remove your macerator over winter, or just dump several gallons to dilute whatever waste water may be left?
Galen Briggs
New Virginia, Iowa
1978 Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Winterization [message #188479 is a reply to message #188418] |
Sat, 27 October 2012 21:28 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| Galen wrote on Fri, 26 October 2012 20:17 |
Mike - can you elaborate on macerator winterizing.I've never had one before....
|
I do not think a small amount of frozen water in the macerator would hurt much... unless it is turned on before it is thawed out. (I think it would be hard on the "rubber" pump/impeller part.)
But if left fairly full of water, lots of plastic and other parts could be damaged.
Something to consider: I understand "dirty" water generally doesn't freeze the same as clean water, but how much "difference" would depend on how "dirty" the water is... and what is actually in the water.
Someone suggested putting salt in the holding tanks to lower the freezing point. I would be concerned with corrosion of the few metallic, non-SS parts... but not that concerned. (This might be something to think about when using the coach in cold weather.)
Now my procedure for the macerator is a bit different than others. My "user" coach has a rear bath with sewage plumbing very different than most GMC's. For example, after the macerator install I have FOUR sewage valves, all almost under the rear bumper. The "T" that the hooks up the macerator input is a matter of inches (and one valve) from the emergency (gravity) dump. So... take what you can from my procedure and modify, as needed, for your coach.
This is the last step in my winterizing routine. For the Macerator, I use some of the "pink stuff" that I blow out of water system. (I do not leave pink anti-freeze standing in my water system over the winter.)
After dumping and draining and winterizing the systems, I leave the valve between the macerator input and the tanks closed and open the valve between the macerator input and the dump connection. Using a dump connector cap with a garden hose connection (placed up), a funnel and short hose, I pour a little "red stuff" into the macerator I then bump the power switch for a second or so... until I see pink in the clear section of output hose. Install the cap on the hose connection on the dump cap, (say that 5 times fast) close the valve and the job is done.
Reminds me that I should do this soon, but wife wants to use the coach in two weeks... Marine Corps Birthday.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Winterization [message #188548 is a reply to message #188376] |
Sun, 28 October 2012 16:32 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Senior Member |
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I couldn't see any drain for my water heater.
Any suggestions?
I don't find any bypass. The water heater on
our travel trailer has access to both ends of
the box. I have always just pulled the "rod"
that serves as sacrificial anode(?) and opened
the relief valve for the winter. On the trailer
I just opened all the drains and faucets and let
gravity do the job. Then I poured RV anti-freeze
into all the drains and toilet bowl.
Please excuse the delay in response. I was out
of town Friday and Saturday.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ~ TZE166V101966 ~ ~ ~ ~
~ ~ ~ '76 ex-Palm Beach ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
______________
*[ ]~~~[][ ][|\
*--OO--[]---O-*
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: bruce@perthcomm.com
> Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 16:56:36 -0500
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Winterization
>
>
>
> There should be a drain valve under the water heater to fully drain the water heater.
>
> Hopefully you have a water heater bypass so you don't have to fill the heater with anti-freeze to get the anti-freeze into the hot water lines. Here's more info on that.
>
> http://www.ehow.com/how_4546786_install-water-heater-bypass-kit.html
> http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717
>
> Disconnect the pump from the water tank and add a hose to pump anti-freeze through the pipes. Open the facets till you see the anti-freeze coming out. Don't forget the shower head. When you have anti-freeze in all the pipes, shut off the pump.
>
> I just bought one of these today to make pumping the anti-freeze easier:
> http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/pump-converter-winterizer-kit/6279
>
> Pour some anti-freeze down the bathroom sink and both sides of the kitchen sink to flush water out of the P traps.
>
> If you use the pressure water connection, you'll have to flush that too. I never use it so I haven't flushed mine, but I guess I should.
>
> I'm sure I've missed something.
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hislop
> ON Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
> Hubler 1 ton front end
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
> _______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] Winterization [message #188576 is a reply to message #188548] |
Sun, 28 October 2012 19:21 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| k2gkk wrote on Sun, 28 October 2012 16:32 |
I couldn't see any drain for my water heater.
Any suggestions?
I don't find any bypass. The water heater on
our travel trailer has access to both ends of
the box. I have always just pulled the "rod"
that serves as sacrificial anode(?) and opened
the relief valve for the winter. On the trailer
I just opened all the drains and faucets and let
gravity do the job. Then I poured RV anti-freeze
into all the drains and toilet bowl.
|
The hot water tank drain is dead center in the bottom of the tank. I removed mine and installed a ball valve for ease of future draining.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Winterization [message #189116 is a reply to message #188479] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 20:30 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| Mike Miller wrote on Sat, 27 October 2012 19:28 |
| Galen wrote on Fri, 26 October 2012 20:17 |
Mike - can you elaborate on macerator winterizing.I've never had one before....
|
... This is the last step in my winterizing routine. For the Macerator, I use some of the "pink stuff" that I blow out of water system. (I do not leave pink anti-freeze standing in my water system over the winter.)
After dumping and draining and winterizing the systems, ...
|
FMCA posted this video for winterization that is fairly close to my procedure and is a good primer for "new to RV'ers": <http://www.youtube.com/user/fmcaonline>
Note this shows a built in water heater by-pass, and you can put a valve on the water pump to avoid the disconnect/reconnect of the pump shown in the video. Kits are available for both.
The main thing I do in addition is: At the end of there procedure wait a day or so (to allow the anti-freeze to displace any water left in the cracks of the system) then I blow out the anti-freeze with air. most goes down the drain but I recover some to pour into my macerator. I suspect most GMC'ers would be better off just blowing the pink stuff into the drains and then bumping the macerator to get it into the pump and hose.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Winterization [message #189123 is a reply to message #188359] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 22:02 |
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Unless the 28 is sustained beyond 5 hours I wouldn't worry. The PVC lines
can tolerate it easier than copper lines any day of the week. But, opening
the drain locations and keeping the faucets open (and the pump off) is a
big help. For lower temps then blow out the lines with air and put the
pink stuff in the drains. I always just drained the water heater and our
coaches have survived below zero temps with the lines empty (no pink
stuff).
Byron Songer
Louisville, KY
News and Web Editor, GMC Eastern States
http://www.gmceast.com
ATTENTION: This reply is in reference to what is provided below
>
>Dang! Mister Winter is apparently coming in tonight.
>I hadn't done the Winter prep yet and I'm not sure of
>all the places where water can collect and freeze.
>
>I opened the lavvy faucets and turned the pump on.
>
>Nothing bad in the black tank, so I opened it up so
>water from the sink drain lines could go there.
>
>I found two valves near the water pump in the right
>rear that led to a TEE that went through the floor.
>Got both of those opened up and water is draining
>out from multiple places. Told Judy it was just
>running along the underside of the floor in many
>directions and then down several frame members.
>
>Opened the "pop-off" at top of water heater and
>HOPE that will allow that tank to drain.
>
>Sent Judy to WallyWorld for "pink stuff" and will
>dump that into the drains.
>
>Water pump speeded up and air came out of faucets.
>
>Hope that will be good enough for tonight and also
>tomorrow night.
>
>Any comments? This is what I have done for our
>travel trailer in the past. Have I missed any
>danger spots?
>
>Temps are forecast to get down to 28F.
>
>We are trying to get ready to head out of town
>this afternoon until tomorrow afternoon.
>
>~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
>~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
>~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
>~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
>~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
>~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
>~ ~ ~ ~ TZE166V101966 ~ ~ ~ ~
>~ ~ ~ '76 ex-Palm Beach ~ ~ ~
>~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
>~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
>______________
>*[ ]~~~[][ ][|\
>*--OO--[]---O-*
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>GMCnet mailing list
>Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
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--
Byron Songer
Full-timing to enjoy the USA
Former owner but still an admirer
GMC paint schemes at -
http://www.songerconsulting.net
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| Re: [GMCnet] Winterization [message #337856 is a reply to message #188359] |
Sat, 13 October 2018 21:55 |
<rallymaster
Messages: 361
Registered: May 2014
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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I run it until the "stuff" is coming in clumps about 3 or 4 ft apart in
the clear 1" hose. That would be a few seconds apart, if your hose isn't
sort of transparent.
Then I shut it down and dump a measure of my black tank treatment in the
toilet, along with a quart or two of water, and flush. That gives the
little bugs and enzymes a good start for the next batch of "stuff".
I use Happy Camper, Always Fresh, or TanktechsRx.
TanktechRx is more work, and I think they recommend filling the toilet
with water for each flush; it's a little vague. The first two are the
usual powder-like product that uses a scoop for each 30 gallons or so of
tank capacity. All three are bacteria and enzyme, etc. products. It is
necessary to really clean and rinse the tank before using one of the
enzyme products, if you've been using one of the "harsh chemical
products".
Ron & Linda Clark
North Plains, ORYGUN
1978 Eleganza II
On Sat, 13 Oct 2018 17:30:02 -0600 kelly stockwell
writes:
> To all who have macerators, how long do you pump them out? Until
> completely dry, no liquid coming out for 10 seconds or more?
> --
> 1978 Kingsley
> Putney VT
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>
Ron & Linda Clark
North Plains, ORYGUN
1978 Eleganza II
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