Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » electrical question, (plugged in long tern)
| electrical question, [message #187364] |
Mon, 15 October 2012 17:59  |
chasingsummer
Messages: 434
Registered: May 2011
Location: asheboro, nc
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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As I consider adding an automatic battery maintainer I run across a question for the group.
I have combiner,
As I think ahead to redoing flooring this winter I consider being plugged in and running an electric space heater. This would be left on for weeks at a time maybe. I dont think my buzz box is original, but how would I know if it would overcharge batteries or otherwise cause them harm? Is leaving an interior light on when plugged in enought to eliminate any battery issues? Or would I be better off with a small automatic battery charger and a 12vdc space heater? Heater would keep it comfortable for me to work while eliminating any frozen pipe issues.
Any related input is appreciated.
Bgk
brian
asheboro, nc
75 eleganza, 74 build
119k miles and counting,
DOG HOUSE
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| Re: electrical question, [message #187371 is a reply to message #187364] |
Mon, 15 October 2012 18:51  |
GeorgeRud
Messages: 1380
Registered: February 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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If you could provide the make of inverter/combiner/charger that replaced the buzz box, it would help to answer your question.
I managed to kill a new set of house batteries the first winter when I kept the coach plugged in with the original buzz box. When I changed the buzz box for a modern intelligent charger, the batteries don't die when they are plugged in.
During the Amana Rally, my electric heater kept me somewhat comfortable during a few cold nights, so it should keep the interior reasonable to work inside. However, some RV antifreeze may still be good protection for the fresh water system.
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
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| Re: electrical question, [message #187373 is a reply to message #187364] |
Mon, 15 October 2012 18:54 |
Galen
Messages: 146
Registered: November 2011
Location: New Virginia, IA
Karma: 0
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My two bits, but if you don't have a model number to get the manufacturer specs, you would need to monitor the charging voltage to see if the converter output charging voltage drops as your battery reaches full charge. See this manual as an example... there's a chart on page 3. http://www.progressivedyn.com/pdfs/109821E%20english%20manual.pdf
I would use a 110 space heater definitely. You lose at least 20%-40% of through the conversion process of the converter, so you'd be pouring money, albeit probably alot less in NC than in Iowa, but your still losing.
You could always disconnect your converter and/or battery if you were concerned about overcharging your battery, and just use 110 distribution for lamps.
Galen
Galen Briggs
New Virginia, Iowa
1978 Palm Beach
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| Re: electrical question, [message #187375 is a reply to message #187364] |
Mon, 15 October 2012 19:37 |
Galen
Messages: 146
Registered: November 2011
Location: New Virginia, IA
Karma: 0
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http://www.parallaxpower.com/775_900/700%20SERIES.pdf
I believe this is the schematic for your converter. Since this is not processor controlled (it's just basically a step down transformer followed by a rectifier to convert from AC to DC) it's probably going to put out at the higher end toward 14VDC and could boil your battery.
I would not leave it plugged in on my battery all the time for weeks at a time.
Galen Briggs
New Virginia, Iowa
1978 Palm Beach
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| Re: electrical question, [message #187378 is a reply to message #187364] |
Mon, 15 October 2012 19:46 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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The new smart units such as those by IOTA and a combiner by Yandina make the whole process a no brainer. They preserve the batteries rather than wreck them. ( and batteries are now expensive!) I frown on electric space heaters for the tip-over fire hazarad reason and for tripping on them or their cords or knocking them over off a counter. I bought a steel powder coated kick space heater for permanent install like under the drivers side couch as a more professional approach. Broan has these as do others.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] electrical question, [message #187383 is a reply to message #187364] |
Mon, 15 October 2012 20:22 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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HERE IS THE POOP
<*http://tinyurl.com/9o4p2f6>
WITH CHARTS AND DRAWINGS
good luck
gene
*
On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 3:59 PM, brian <chasingsummer@triad.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> As I consider adding an automatic battery maintainer I run across a
> question for the group.
> I have combiner,
> As I think ahead to redoing flooring this winter I consider being plugged
> in and running an electric space heater. This would be left on for weeks at
> a time maybe. I dont think my buzz box is original, but how would I know if
> it would overcharge batteries or otherwise cause them harm? Is leaving an
> interior light on when plugged in enought to eliminate any battery issues?
> Or would I be better off with a small automatic battery charger and a
> 12vdc space heater? Heater would keep it comfortable for me to work while
> eliminating any frozen pipe issues.
> Any related input is appreciated.
> Bgk
> --
> brian
> asheboro, nc
> 75 eleganza 2 74 build
> 118k miles and counting,
> DOG HOUSE
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: [GMCnet] electrical question, [message #187389 is a reply to message #187378] |
Mon, 15 October 2012 21:00 |
mickeysss
Messages: 1476
Registered: January 2012
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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just for informationationisming:
The best heater design electric i have found for boat or rv, or home is this type heater easy to find in yard sales any where and
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200500588_200500588?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Heaters-_-Electric-_-25817&ci_sku=25817&ci_gpa=pla& ci_kw=%7Bkeyword%7D
This fan put behind it on the floor on low will heat a large volume very well.
http://www.air-n-water.com/product/9723.html
If you really want to do a great heater sit this on top of the heater fins full of water and tie it down to the fins.
Leave the fan on the floor blowing through the fins and the water container holds heat and radiates heat as well. Works great.
http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Pacific-Heavy-Stainless-35-Quart/dp/B00107EARQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1350351816&sr=1-1&keyw ords=large+cooking+pots
This is a strange design for a heater but turn it all on low and it heats a lot of volume. If you are just heating for pipe thawing inside put a timer
that goes on and off how ever times a day that will hold heat a long enough for your needs. It is fire proof except for the fan motor and you have warm
water at all times for hands etc. Not hot enough for tea etc. but it is a very good way to heat a volume with the least electricity put on a timer all of it, fan,
radiator, and fasten the pot to the fins of the heater. This is surprisingly successful if you try it. You cannot drive with it of course unless you design for it.
mickey
77 palm beach
anaheim ca.
On Oct 15, 2012, at 5:46 PM, John R. Lebetski wrote:
>
>
> The new smart units such as those by IOTA and a combiner by Yandina make the whole process a no brainer. They preserve the batteries rather than wreck them. ( and batteries are now expensive!) I frown on electric space heaters for the tip-over fire hazarad reason and for tripping on them or their cords or knocking them over off a counter. I bought a steel powder coated kick space heater for permanent install like under the drivers side couch as a more professional approach. Broan has these as do others.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Chicago, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
> Source America First
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] electrical question, [message #187402 is a reply to message #187373] |
Mon, 15 October 2012 22:47 |
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ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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I like the idea of smart chargers and I lie the idea of solar panels but the two are very different from the batteries point of view - no?
Do solar controllers charge in a smart fashion? I don't imagine they ever spike the voltage to desulfate.
Is it an issue in practice?
Larry Davick
On Oct 15, 2012, at 4:54 PM, Galen Briggs <gpbriggs@iowatelecom.net> wrote:
>
>
> My two bits, but if you don't have a model number to get the manufacturer specs, you would need to monitor the charging voltage to see if the converter output charging voltage drops as your battery reaches full charge. See this manual as an example... there's a chart on page 3. http://www.progressivedyn.com/pdfs/109821E%20english%20manual.pdf
>
> I would use a 110 space heater definitely. You lose at least 20%-40% of through the conversion process of the converter, so you'd be pouring money, albeit probably alot less in NC than in Iowa, but your still losing.
>
> You could always disconnect your converter and/or battery if you were concerned about overcharging your battery, and just use 110 distribution for lamps.
>
> Galen
> --
> Galen Briggs
> New Virginia, Iowa
> 1978 Palm Beach
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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| Re: [GMCnet] electrical question, [message #187405 is a reply to message #187402] |
Mon, 15 October 2012 22:58 |
Ronald Pottol
Messages: 505
Registered: September 2012
Location: Redwood City, California
Karma: -2
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Senior Member |
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Nope, I've heard of people getting 7 years on a set of batteries, full
timing, no generator. That was a 5th wheel trailer.
Ron
On Oct 15, 2012 8:47 PM, "Larry Davick" <ljdavick@comcast.net> wrote:
> I like the idea of smart chargers and I lie the idea of solar panels but
> the two are very different from the batteries point of view - no?
>
> Do solar controllers charge in a smart fashion? I don't imagine they ever
> spike the voltage to desulfate.
>
> Is it an issue in practice?
>
> Larry Davick
>
> On Oct 15, 2012, at 4:54 PM, Galen Briggs <gpbriggs@iowatelecom.net>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > My two bits, but if you don't have a model number to get the
> manufacturer specs, you would need to monitor the charging voltage to see
> if the converter output charging voltage drops as your battery reaches full
> charge. See this manual as an example... there's a chart on page 3.
> http://www.progressivedyn.com/pdfs/109821E%20english%20manual.pdf
> >
> > I would use a 110 space heater definitely. You lose at least 20%-40% of
> through the conversion process of the converter, so you'd be pouring money,
> albeit probably alot less in NC than in Iowa, but your still losing.
> >
> > You could always disconnect your converter and/or battery if you were
> concerned about overcharging your battery, and just use 110 distribution
> for lamps.
> >
> > Galen
> > --
> > Galen Briggs
> > New Virginia, Iowa
> > 1978 Palm Beach
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
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1973 26' GM outfitted
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| Re: [GMCnet] electrical question, [message #187419 is a reply to message #187409] |
Tue, 16 October 2012 01:36 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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"A forum problem" That no one posting except you has. If you truly want to fix it then find out why your posts are bracketed with *.
Or you can take the presidential route and blame it on someone else. Maybe it is the tsunami causing the problem.
You have been doing it for years and most of us just disregard the problem and correct it on our own.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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