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| [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182031] |
Mon, 27 August 2012 20:58  |
Tim Jeffries
Messages: 35
Registered: August 2012
Karma: 0
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Member |
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I am enjoying all the emails and blogs I get from the club
members. lots of valuable information.
However, I don't have a clue as to how to ask a question or to blog to
the group for info or to share some.
I'm not just new to GMC - but new to this forum-thing as well.
So I wrote out in Word - and have cut and pasted my questions:
I have no idea how to determine which of the several “models” of my 26
/ 455 unit (possibly Canyonlands?) is. It seems most of those of you
that are posting these blogs know exactly which you have. How does
one tell? It was originally a kind of dark yellow/orange. (now
off-white w Blue shades of stripes).
My system is still the old “Freon” type R-12 since the system is
virtually empty (yes, thankfully, there was a small hiss when the
lines were opened) Indicating that there is probably NO MOISTURE in
the system, whew.
My A/C system is still R-12 - it has never been converted.
... But the Magic Bus hadn’t been driven for several
years. The PO (a neighbor) states that it "blows cold" but hadn't used
it for at least 6 years.
But then he only drove the vehicle 200 miles in the 7 years he owned
it. Then the mice took over (inside the A/c-Heating blower fan so he
quit running it while starting the vehicle.
He bought the vehicle to live in as a construction site vehicle/home while
re-building his house that had burned down in the terrible 2003
wild-fires in north SD County, so he rarely drove it and really didn't
have much to go on.
So now that I'm Going to switch to R-134. What things are there to consider?
I have not checked for leaks
– and now the hoses are off the vehicle. I took them in to have them
replaced (made-up) and the cost is a whopping $154 for the 3 hoses –
from a Parker Store [Comoso (Controlled Motion Solutions) - in
Escondido, CA]
Where I will possibly give them the green light once I hear back from
you/someone.
A few Q's and concerns: 1. another trusted mechanic source (that USED
TO make up A/C lines) says: "Just put 'em back in. If they leak, it
may only be a half-pound a year or so -you can top that off (with
R-134)."
2. my shade tree mechanic wants me to SPEND MONEY -(I don't want to
-if they are working) and replace the lines (thinking the rubber is
different from the rubber used on freon/R-134 hoses - now I believe he
is wrong in that thinking)
3. the rubber hoses are the original hoses -how many more years will they last?
4. I'm a follower of "if it works, don't fix it" - but there is a
certain comfort in having "new" lines installed as well.
5. the oil used in the compressor, which SHOULD light up once the
system is full - (we tested it and it seems good) is petroleum based
oil which doesn't get along with R-134 so it will be changed to the
mineral oil that will be put in when I throw the hoses back on (It
puts the machine "out of order" to take the compressor out just yet
-due to the v-belt system. The compressor gets emptied and filled with
mineral oil to match the R-134.)
In looking back on this, these aren't really questions, just that I'm
sure one of you folks has more info than the sum total of what my
(posted) knowledge-base is.
6. the system apparently will take around 3.75 cans (at 12 oz.) of
R-134. Cost about $16-$18 per can incl tax, so around $75-$80.
Can I get R-134 cheaper somewhere? This was O'Reilly AP.
What would you do?
I will take your answer to my call off the air....LOL.
Respectfully,
Tim - the Magic Bus 26er. 760-877-2778
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| Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182032 is a reply to message #182031] |
Mon, 27 August 2012 21:18  |
midlf
Messages: 2212
Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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| Tim Jeffries wrote on Mon, 27 August 2012 20:58 |
My system is still the old “Freon” type R-12 since the system is
virtually empty (yes, thankfully, there was a small hiss when the
lines were opened) Indicating that there is probably NO MOISTURE in
the system, whew.
My A/C system is still R-12 - it has never been converted.
|
Don't convert to R-134! Investigate HC-12A or Duracool (both are essentially the same thing) which are a hydrocarbon replacement for R-12. Not only will it cool better than R-12, it will put less load on the engine (R-134 will increase the engine load), and it will probably leak less.
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
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| Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182033 is a reply to message #182031] |
Mon, 27 August 2012 21:16 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Tim,
Welcome aboard; you're at the right place for GMC MH help.
First off, let me give you some fatherly advices (I'm 75 yo -- in addition
to having had a GMC for 14 years of learning, so I'm "entitled".): Always
Ask (here) BEFORE You Leap into any GMC repair/mod.
If you had, you'd have been advised to leave the A/C hoses in place, put in
3 cans of Duracool (HC-12a), and ride cool! By removing the hoses, you've
lost that sealed system of which you were justifiably proud. And with the
hydrocarbon-based Duracool most of us now prefer, you would not have needed
barrier type hoses nor to replace the compressor oil. Duracool's both
cheaper and performs much better than either R-12 or R-134a.
I'm going to leave further explanation of Duracool, charging, etc., to
others and talk a little about the HVAC and your mouse problem: You don't
mention what year your coach is; that's important to HVAC work because
there were significant differences between the 73/74, 75/76, and 77/78
coaches. The best reference for attacking the somewhat limited cooling
ability of the first to series is this:
http://gmcws.org/Tech/air_conditioning/air_conditing.html
Your HVAC box probably had rat's nests in side it. You can probably get
most of them out by removing the blower on the right (passenger side); that
gives access to the main air plenum. When you re-install the motor, be
certain you get a GOOD ground connection; that's a perennial problem area.
Another location for nests is behind the evaporator (which runs across the
bottom of the HVAC box. The only access to that is through the small hole
on the left lower side of the box where the fan speed control resistors are
mounted. Remove that small plate and vacuum that area thoroughly.
You really should also remove the front plate of the HVAC box to check
there, and to renew the insulation on the damper doors, as suggested in the
pamphlet above.
HTH,
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 9:58 PM, Tim Jeffries wrote:
> I am enjoying all the emails and blogs I get from the club
> members. lots of valuable information.
> However, I don't have a clue as to how to ask a question or to blog to
> the group for info or to share some.
> I'm not just new to GMC - but new to this forum-thing as well.
>
> So I wrote out in Word - and have cut and pasted my questions:
>
> I have no idea how to determine which of the several “models” of my 26
> / 455 unit (possibly Canyonlands?) is. It seems most of those of you
> that are posting these blogs know exactly which you have. How does
> one tell? It was originally a kind of dark yellow/orange. (now
> off-white w Blue shades of stripes).
> My system is still the old “Freon” type R-12 since the system is
> virtually empty (yes, thankfully, there was a small hiss when the
> lines were opened) Indicating that there is probably NO MOISTURE in
> the system, whew.
>
>
> My A/C system is still R-12 - it has never been converted.
> ... But the Magic Bus hadn’t been driven for several
> years. The PO (a neighbor) states that it "blows cold" but hadn't used
> it for at least 6 years.
> But then he only drove the vehicle 200 miles in the 7 years he owned
> it. Then the mice took over (inside the A/c-Heating blower fan so he
> quit running it while starting the vehicle.
> He bought the vehicle to live in as a construction site vehicle/home while
> re-building his house that had burned down in the terrible 2003
> wild-fires in north SD County, so he rarely drove it and really didn't
> have much to go on.
>
> So now that I'm Going to switch to R-134. What things are there to
> consider?
> I have not checked for leaks
> – and now the hoses are off the vehicle. I took them in to have them
> replaced (made-up) and the cost is a whopping $154 for the 3 hoses –
> from a Parker Store [Comoso (Controlled Motion Solutions) - in
> Escondido, CA]
> Where I will possibly give them the green light once I hear back from
> you/someone.
>
> A few Q's and concerns: 1. another trusted mechanic source (that USED
> TO make up A/C lines) says: "Just put 'em back in. If they leak, it
> may only be a half-pound a year or so -you can top that off (with
> R-134)."
> 2. my shade tree mechanic wants me to SPEND MONEY -(I don't want to
> -if they are working) and replace the lines (thinking the rubber is
> different from the rubber used on freon/R-134 hoses - now I believe he
> is wrong in that thinking)
> 3. the rubber hoses are the original hoses -how many more years will they
> last?
> 4. I'm a follower of "if it works, don't fix it" - but there is a
> certain comfort in having "new" lines installed as well.
> 5. the oil used in the compressor, which SHOULD light up once the
> system is full - (we tested it and it seems good) is petroleum based
> oil which doesn't get along with R-134 so it will be changed to the
> mineral oil that will be put in when I throw the hoses back on (It
> puts the machine "out of order" to take the compressor out just yet
> -due to the v-belt system. The compressor gets emptied and filled with
> mineral oil to match the R-134.)
> In looking back on this, these aren't really questions, just that I'm
> sure one of you folks has more info than the sum total of what my
> (posted) knowledge-base is.
> 6. the system apparently will take around 3.75 cans (at 12 oz.) of
> R-134. Cost about $16-$18 per can incl tax, so around $75-$80.
> Can I get R-134 cheaper somewhere? This was O'Reilly AP.
> What would you do?
>
> I will take your answer to my call off the air....LOL.
> Respectfully,
> Tim - the Magic Bus 26er. 760-877-2778
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182057 is a reply to message #182031] |
Mon, 27 August 2012 23:29 |
Adrien G.
Messages: 474
Registered: May 2008
Location: Burns Flat, OK 73624
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Tim,
Welcome to the GMCMHU (GMC MH University), there are no graduates, where tinkering (or work) and learning never stops.
Have you looked at www.GMCers.org site.Three's good info to start your knowledge base, along with many info sites. This forum being one of them.
You don't say what year (add that to your signature) your coach is. Inside the glove box lid should have a tag with the VIN # and under Options is the model # ( like my coach is 681051 which is a Glenbrook, the first 3 digits is the model), I've read that early models '73 don't have it. Someone else will have to fill in on this part.
There's a Duracool distributor in your region (LA). If, you're going to do it yourself, then you need to BBBS (buy, beg, borough, steel) a vacuum pump and some gauges to evacuate and put freon in. It's not very difficult, let us know if and when you're ready for further instructions.
There may be another GMC owner close by, check the Black List or someone may chime in.
Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook (26-3) Mods LS3.70 FD / Reaction Sys / 80mm Front&Intermidiate / Hydroboost / 16" Tires / Frame Rebuild / Interior Rebuild
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
[Updated on: Mon, 27 August 2012 23:32] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182064 is a reply to message #182057] |
Tue, 28 August 2012 00:37 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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I wish we had caught you before you removed the hoses and opened the system up to the air. I would reinstall those same hoses with new o-rings (available for AZ or you favorite auto parts store). After that you will need to pull a vacuum on the system to check for leaks and remove all of the air and moisture that got inside when you removed the hoses. You do not need to change the oil or replace the hoses is you use Duracool.
After vacuuming, install 3 cans of Duracool and enjoy the cold air.
I had R-134 at one time and you will NOT be happy with the amount of cold air using R-134. The r-134 cools worse than r-12 while Duracool cools better than either r-12 or r-134.
http://www.worthingtonagparts.com/parts/view/WN-D12A06/refrigerant-duracool-12a-6-oz.-recharge-can.aspx
It is currently $6.25 per can
You can also call and telephone order it from them.
You can get a can tapper with a gauge and trigger on it for $17.00 from Walmart. The final thing you will need is some adapters to screw on your AC ports. Wally World or your favorite auto parts store will have them for around $5.00. You want adapters for r-12 fittings to R-134.
I wish you were closer. I and many others have all of the stuff needed and would do it for nothing. The biggest problem you now have is finding someone with a vacuum pump to vacuum the system. After that you can do the rest on your own in about i/2 hour. You also might check to see if there is a GMC rally going on near you. Usually at least one person shows up with a vacuum pump.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182082 is a reply to message #182031] |
Tue, 28 August 2012 07:44 |
 |
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Tim,
Welcome to the group/family/cult/asylum.....
Believe the HC-12a bit. Do not even mess with R-134a. It will cause you more problems than it has any call to do. It also is cheaper and it does work better.
As to what model it is, the called style model is almost entirely about colors and trim, and not a serious issue. The big issue is whether it is a GMC/Gemini fit coach or a refit transmode (the vin can tell you this).
The fact that you know it is a 455 means it is not a late 77 or 78MY. You should know the model year even if it is an Avion, Coachman or other.
Yes, please include in you sig, some coach id and a geographic reference so others that can help will have some idea where you are.
Lastly, I suspect that you, like others have, will soon find that the coach becomes more a part of your life than just another toy you own. I compare it to the way the boat fits in a waterman's life. So, I offer a greeting to new owners much as I would any new owner or vessel:
May the Good Lord bless this coach and all those that set forth within her.
Welcome Tim
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182111 is a reply to message #182033] |
Tue, 28 August 2012 11:31 |
Tim Jeffries
Messages: 35
Registered: August 2012
Karma: 0
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Member |
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Ken H - thanks - just a bit of clarification. sorry, I should have
mentioned in my Signature - its a 1973 . 26er.
I have unfortunately removed the hoses, but have not yet made a move
on refridgerant - you said : " you would not have needed barrier type
hoses nor to replace the compressor oil"(intimating that I may need to
do something differently now?)- but thanks to worlds of advice from
all of you, I'm Not going to replace the lines, but DO I need to go to
Mineral Oil now that I have messed things up? I Will be using DuraCool
- and I will use the dye and check for leaks - but STILL do not know
what to repair the leaks with - other than that I will probably have
none after re-installation (with a bit of luck). If so, is a 1/2 lb.
loss per year anything to worry about? I guess that's about 1/3 can or
so.
So If there are leaks, I go back in and replace the lines, I think.
Too bad I skipped that step, but could work out ok -due to having a
"control" on the O-ring leak possibility that I have by now fixed.
The main thing I need clarification on is the type of Compressor OIL to use.
And - Pehaps the Duracool is Not available with dye Ken B? So I need
to use one can of R-134 w dye and the rest Duracool? Just a bit
confused there.
thanks, guys!
TJ
On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 7:16 PM, Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Tim,
>
> Welcome aboard; you're at the right place for GMC MH help.
>
> First off, let me give you some fatherly advices (I'm 75 yo -- in addition
> to having had a GMC for 14 years of learning, so I'm "entitled".): Always
> Ask (here) BEFORE You Leap into any GMC repair/mod.
>
> If you had, you'd have been advised to leave the A/C hoses in place, put in
> 3 cans of Duracool (HC-12a), and ride cool! By removing the hoses, you've
> lost that sealed system of which you were justifiably proud. And with the
> hydrocarbon-based Duracool most of us now prefer, you would not have needed
> barrier type hoses nor to replace the compressor oil. Duracool's both
> cheaper and performs much better than either R-12 or R-134a.
>
> I'm going to leave further explanation of Duracool, charging, etc., to
> others and talk a little about the HVAC and your mouse problem: You don't
> mention what year your coach is; that's important to HVAC work because
> there were significant differences between the 73/74, 75/76, and 77/78
> coaches. The best reference for attacking the somewhat limited cooling
> ability of the first to series is this:
> http://gmcws.org/Tech/air_conditioning/air_conditing.html
>
> Your HVAC box probably had rat's nests in side it. You can probably get
> most of them out by removing the blower on the right (passenger side); that
> gives access to the main air plenum. When you re-install the motor, be
> certain you get a GOOD ground connection; that's a perennial problem area.
> Another location for nests is behind the evaporator (which runs across the
> bottom of the HVAC box. The only access to that is through the small hole
> on the left lower side of the box where the fan speed control resistors are
> mounted. Remove that small plate and vacuum that area thoroughly.
>
> You really should also remove the front plate of the HVAC box to check
> there, and to renew the insulation on the damper doors, as suggested in the
> pamphlet above.
>
> HTH,
>
> Ken H.
> Americus, GA
> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
> www.gmcwipersetc.com
>
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 9:58 PM, Tim Jeffries wrote:
>
>> I am enjoying all the emails and blogs I get from the club
>> members. lots of valuable information.
>> However, I don't have a clue as to how to ask a question or to blog to
>> the group for info or to share some.
>> I'm not just new to GMC - but new to this forum-thing as well.
>>
>> So I wrote out in Word - and have cut and pasted my questions:
>>
>> I have no idea how to determine which of the several “models” of my 26
>> / 455 unit (possibly Canyonlands?) is. It seems most of those of you
>> that are posting these blogs know exactly which you have. How does
>> one tell? It was originally a kind of dark yellow/orange. (now
>> off-white w Blue shades of stripes).
>> My system is still the old “Freon” type R-12 since the system is
>> virtually empty (yes, thankfully, there was a small hiss when the
>> lines were opened) Indicating that there is probably NO MOISTURE in
>> the system, whew.
>>
>>
>> My A/C system is still R-12 - it has never been converted.
>> ... But the Magic Bus hadn’t been driven for several
>> years. The PO (a neighbor) states that it "blows cold" but hadn't used
>> it for at least 6 years.
>> But then he only drove the vehicle 200 miles in the 7 years he owned
>> it. Then the mice took over (inside the A/c-Heating blower fan so he
>> quit running it while starting the vehicle.
>> He bought the vehicle to live in as a construction site vehicle/home while
>> re-building his house that had burned down in the terrible 2003
>> wild-fires in north SD County, so he rarely drove it and really didn't
>> have much to go on.
>>
>> So now that I'm Going to switch to R-134. What things are there to
>> consider?
>> I have not checked for leaks
>> – and now the hoses are off the vehicle. I took them in to have them
>> replaced (made-up) and the cost is a whopping $154 for the 3 hoses –
>> from a Parker Store [Comoso (Controlled Motion Solutions) - in
>> Escondido, CA]
>> Where I will possibly give them the green light once I hear back from
>> you/someone.
>>
>> A few Q's and concerns: 1. another trusted mechanic source (that USED
>> TO make up A/C lines) says: "Just put 'em back in. If they leak, it
>> may only be a half-pound a year or so -you can top that off (with
>> R-134)."
>> 2. my shade tree mechanic wants me to SPEND MONEY -(I don't want to
>> -if they are working) and replace the lines (thinking the rubber is
>> different from the rubber used on freon/R-134 hoses - now I believe he
>> is wrong in that thinking)
>> 3. the rubber hoses are the original hoses -how many more years will they
>> last?
>> 4. I'm a follower of "if it works, don't fix it" - but there is a
>> certain comfort in having "new" lines installed as well.
>> 5. the oil used in the compressor, which SHOULD light up once the
>> system is full - (we tested it and it seems good) is petroleum based
>> oil which doesn't get along with R-134 so it will be changed to the
>> mineral oil that will be put in when I throw the hoses back on (It
>> puts the machine "out of order" to take the compressor out just yet
>> -due to the v-belt system. The compressor gets emptied and filled with
>> mineral oil to match the R-134.)
>> In looking back on this, these aren't really questions, just that I'm
>> sure one of you folks has more info than the sum total of what my
>> (posted) knowledge-base is.
>> 6. the system apparently will take around 3.75 cans (at 12 oz.) of
>> R-134. Cost about $16-$18 per can incl tax, so around $75-$80.
>> Can I get R-134 cheaper somewhere? This was O'Reilly AP.
>> What would you do?
>>
>> I will take your answer to my call off the air....LOL.
>> Respectfully,
>> Tim - the Magic Bus 26er. 760-877-2778
>>
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| Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182118 is a reply to message #182111] |
Tue, 28 August 2012 12:03 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
|
Senior Member |
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|
1. Forget about R134a. DO NOT add 1 can just to get the dye.
2. Dye is not necessarily needed. I have had my GMC for 31 years and I have never added dye. If you really want dye you can
3. The original oil is mineral oil. It is only necessary to flush that out if you are using R134a and then you must use ester (synthetic) oil. However since you are now planning to use Diuracool it is compatible with either oil. The important thing is to NOT mix both oils into the system. They will form sludge and reall mess up things.
3. If you have replaced the o rings and then drawn a vacuum you should wait several hiurs and check the vacuum again ic it is the same then you are ready to put in the duracool
If you haven't filled it yet an easy way to check for l
Emery
On Aug 28, 2012, at 10:31 AM, Tim Jeffries <landhound1@gmail.com> wrote:
> Ken H - thanks - just a bit of clarification. sorry, I should have
> mentioned in my Signature - its a 1973 . 26er.
> I have unfortunately removed the hoses, but have not yet made a move
> on refridgerant - you said : " you would not have needed barrier type
> hoses nor to replace the compressor oil"(intimating that I may need to
> do something differently now?)- but thanks to worlds of advice from
> all of you, I'm Not going to replace the lines, but DO I need to go to
> Mineral Oil now that I have messed things up? I Will be using DuraCool
> - and I will use the dye and check for leaks - but STILL do not know
> what to repair the leaks with - other than that I will probably have
> none after re-installation (with a bit of luck). If so, is a 1/2 lb.
> loss per year anything to worry about? I guess that's about 1/3 can or
> so.
> So If there are leaks, I go back in and replace the lines, I think.
> Too bad I skipped that step, but could work out ok -due to having a
> "control" on the O-ring leak possibility that I have by now fixed.
> The main thing I need clarification on is the type of Compressor OIL to use.
> And - Pehaps the Duracool is Not available with dye Ken B? So I need
> to use one can of R-134 w dye and the rest Duracool? Just a bit
> confused there.
> thanks, guys!
> TJ
> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 7:16 PM, Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>> Tim,
>>
>> Welcome aboard; you're at the right place for GMC MH help.
>>
>> First off, let me give you some fatherly advices (I'm 75 yo -- in addition
>> to having had a GMC for 14 years of learning, so I'm "entitled".): Always
>> Ask (here) BEFORE You Leap into any GMC repair/mod.
>>
>> If you had, you'd have been advised to leave the A/C hoses in place, put in
>> 3 cans of Duracool (HC-12a), and ride cool! By removing the hoses, you've
>> lost that sealed system of which you were justifiably proud. And with the
>> hydrocarbon-based Duracool most of us now prefer, you would not have needed
>> barrier type hoses nor to replace the compressor oil. Duracool's both
>> cheaper and performs much better than either R-12 or R-134a.
>>
>> I'm going to leave further explanation of Duracool, charging, etc., to
>> others and talk a little about the HVAC and your mouse problem: You don't
>> mention what year your coach is; that's important to HVAC work because
>> there were significant differences between the 73/74, 75/76, and 77/78
>> coaches. The best reference for attacking the somewhat limited cooling
>> ability of the first to series is this:
>> http://gmcws.org/Tech/air_conditioning/air_conditing.html
>>
>> Your HVAC box probably had rat's nests in side it. You can probably get
>> most of them out by removing the blower on the right (passenger side); that
>> gives access to the main air plenum. When you re-install the motor, be
>> certain you get a GOOD ground connection; that's a perennial problem area.
>> Another location for nests is behind the evaporator (which runs across the
>> bottom of the HVAC box. The only access to that is through the small hole
>> on the left lower side of the box where the fan speed control resistors are
>> mounted. Remove that small plate and vacuum that area thoroughly.
>>
>> You really should also remove the front plate of the HVAC box to check
>> there, and to renew the insulation on the damper doors, as suggested in the
>> pamphlet above.
>>
>> HTH,
>>
>> Ken H.
>> Americus, GA
>> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
>> www.gmcwipersetc.com
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 9:58 PM, Tim Jeffries wrote:
>>
>>> I am enjoying all the emails and blogs I get from the club
>>> members. lots of valuable information.
>>> However, I don't have a clue as to how to ask a question or to blog to
>>> the group for info or to share some.
>>> I'm not just new to GMC - but new to this forum-thing as well.
>>>
>>> So I wrote out in Word - and have cut and pasted my questions:
>>>
>>> I have no idea how to determine which of the several “models” of my 26
>>> / 455 unit (possibly Canyonlands?) is. It seems most of those of you
>>> that are posting these blogs know exactly which you have. How does
>>> one tell? It was originally a kind of dark yellow/orange. (now
>>> off-white w Blue shades of stripes).
>>> My system is still the old “Freon” type R-12 since the system is
>>> virtually empty (yes, thankfully, there was a small hiss when the
>>> lines were opened) Indicating that there is probably NO MOISTURE in
>>> the system, whew.
>>>
>>>
>>> My A/C system is still R-12 - it has never been converted.
>>> ... But the Magic Bus hadn’t been driven for several
>>> years. The PO (a neighbor) states that it "blows cold" but hadn't used
>>> it for at least 6 years.
>>> But then he only drove the vehicle 200 miles in the 7 years he owned
>>> it. Then the mice took over (inside the A/c-Heating blower fan so he
>>> quit running it while starting the vehicle.
>>> He bought the vehicle to live in as a construction site vehicle/home while
>>> re-building his house that had burned down in the terrible 2003
>>> wild-fires in north SD County, so he rarely drove it and really didn't
>>> have much to go on.
>>>
>>> So now that I'm Going to switch to R-134. What things are there to
>>> consider?
>>> I have not checked for leaks
>>> – and now the hoses are off the vehicle. I took them in to have them
>>> replaced (made-up) and the cost is a whopping $154 for the 3 hoses –
>>> from a Parker Store [Comoso (Controlled Motion Solutions) - in
>>> Escondido, CA]
>>> Where I will possibly give them the green light once I hear back from
>>> you/someone.
>>>
>>> A few Q's and concerns: 1. another trusted mechanic source (that USED
>>> TO make up A/C lines) says: "Just put 'em back in. If they leak, it
>>> may only be a half-pound a year or so -you can top that off (with
>>> R-134)."
>>> 2. my shade tree mechanic wants me to SPEND MONEY -(I don't want to
>>> -if they are working) and replace the lines (thinking the rubber is
>>> different from the rubber used on freon/R-134 hoses - now I believe he
>>> is wrong in that thinking)
>>> 3. the rubber hoses are the original hoses -how many more years will they
>>> last?
>>> 4. I'm a follower of "if it works, don't fix it" - but there is a
>>> certain comfort in having "new" lines installed as well.
>>> 5. the oil used in the compressor, which SHOULD light up once the
>>> system is full - (we tested it and it seems good) is petroleum based
>>> oil which doesn't get along with R-134 so it will be changed to the
>>> mineral oil that will be put in when I throw the hoses back on (It
>>> puts the machine "out of order" to take the compressor out just yet
>>> -due to the v-belt system. The compressor gets emptied and filled with
>>> mineral oil to match the R-134.)
>>> In looking back on this, these aren't really questions, just that I'm
>>> sure one of you folks has more info than the sum total of what my
>>> (posted) knowledge-base is.
>>> 6. the system apparently will take around 3.75 cans (at 12 oz.) of
>>> R-134. Cost about $16-$18 per can incl tax, so around $75-$80.
>>> Can I get R-134 cheaper somewhere? This was O'Reilly AP.
>>> What would you do?
>>>
>>> I will take your answer to my call off the air....LOL.
>>> Respectfully,
>>> Tim - the Magic Bus 26er. 760-877-2778
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
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>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182119 is a reply to message #182031] |
Tue, 28 August 2012 12:05 |
 |
mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| Tim Jeffries wrote on Mon, 27 August 2012 18:58 |
...
I have no idea how to determine which of the several “models” of my 26
/ 455 unit (possibly Canyonlands?) is. It seems most of those of you
that are posting these blogs know exactly which you have. How does
one tell? It was originally a kind of dark yellow/orange. ...
... My A/C system is still R-12 - it has never been converted.
... But the Magic Bus hadn’t been driven for several
years. ...
|
I haven't had time to read ALL the posts in this thread, but I haven seen any mention of the possible down sides of converting to Duracool or any other Hydrocarbon (propane) based refrigerant. Once you put any into the system, no professional will touch it. (For many different reasons.) While this isn't a problem for many readers of this forum, it is a BIG downside for others.
Propane refrigerants do work MUCH better than the other alternatives. Some are concerned with the flammability of it. But these same people do not seem to be worried about the oil used with the non-flammable refrigerants... very flammable when released under pressure. I am not concerned with the volume of propane in the system... I carry MUCH more propane a few feet aft.
On your coach model:
I did read that your coach is a 1973. That does eliminate the possibility of a Transmode. It also narrows the possible coach models to four. That is the good news. The bad news is that the early coaches did NOT have the interior (model) RPO code on the glovebox sticker like the later coaches. So you'll have to use other methods. You say that it looks like it was yellow. See this link:
<http://www.bdub.net/publications/1973%20GMC%20Motorhome/1973_GMC.htm>
If you look at the "external and internal color availability" chart on page four, You'll notice that one model was NOT produced in yellow: the Glacier. (Note that in '73/74, the model was effectively the interior color scheme.) So there are only three possibilities: Sequoia, Painted Desert or Canyon Land.
Somewhere I saw a series of pictures of the interior materials used on the different models. (I can not seem to find it right now.) You need to compare what is left of the original interior with the pictures. The paneling was lighter on the Sequoia and darker on the Glacier.
My 1973 had some paneling from a couple of different models, but I nailed down the original model by a scrap of original carpet found under the refer cabinet.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
|
|
|
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| Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182124 is a reply to message #182031] |
Tue, 28 August 2012 12:36 |
Tim Jeffries
Messages: 35
Registered: August 2012
Karma: 0
|
Member |
|
|
Emery, excellent thank you so much for clarifying. Only thing is the last sentrnce was truncated a bit. So I lost ya there.
Tim Jeffries
1973 26er
San Diego area
Emery Stora <emerystora@mac.com> wrote:
>1. Forget about R134a. DO NOT add 1 can just to get the dye.
>
>2. Dye is not necessarily needed. I have had my GMC for 31 years and I have never added dye. If you really want dye you can
>
>3. The original oil is mineral oil. It is only necessary to flush that out if you are using R134a and then you must use ester (synthetic) oil. However since you are now planning to use Diuracool it is compatible with either oil. The important thing is to NOT mix both oils into the system. They will form sludge and reall mess up things.
>
>3. If you have replaced the o rings and then drawn a vacuum you should wait several hiurs and check the vacuum again ic it is the same then you are ready to put in the duracool
>
>If you haven't filled it yet an easy way to check for l
>
>
>
>Emery
>
>On Aug 28, 2012, at 10:31 AM, Tim Jeffries <landhound1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Ken H - thanks - just a bit of clarification. sorry, I should have
>> mentioned in my Signature - its a 1973 . 26er.
>> I have unfortunately removed the hoses, but have not yet made a move
>> on refridgerant - you said : " you would not have needed barrier type
>> hoses nor to replace the compressor oil"(intimating that I may need to
>> do something differently now?)- but thanks to worlds of advice from
>> all of you, I'm Not going to replace the lines, but DO I need to go to
>> Mineral Oil now that I have messed things up? I Will be using DuraCool
>> - and I will use the dye and check for leaks - but STILL do not know
>> what to repair the leaks with - other than that I will probably have
>> none after re-installation (with a bit of luck). If so, is a 1/2 lb.
>> loss per year anything to worry about? I guess that's about 1/3 can or
>> so.
>> So If there are leaks, I go back in and replace the lines, I think.
>> Too bad I skipped that step, but could work out ok -due to having a
>> "control" on the O-ring leak possibility that I have by now fixed.
>> The main thing I need clarification on is the type of Compressor OIL to use.
>> And - Pehaps the Duracool is Not available with dye Ken B? So I need
>> to use one can of R-134 w dye and the rest Duracool? Just a bit
>> confused there.
>> thanks, guys!
>> TJ
>> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 7:16 PM, Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>> Tim,
>>>
>>> Welcome aboard; you're at the right place for GMC MH help.
>>>
>>> First off, let me give you some fatherly advices (I'm 75 yo -- in addition
>>> to having had a GMC for 14 years of learning, so I'm "entitled".): Always
>>> Ask (here) BEFORE You Leap into any GMC repair/mod.
>>>
>>> If you had, you'd have been advised to leave the A/C hoses in place, put in
>>> 3 cans of Duracool (HC-12a), and ride cool! By removing the hoses, you've
>>> lost that sealed system of which you were justifiably proud. And with the
>>> hydrocarbon-based Duracool most of us now prefer, you would not have needed
>>> barrier type hoses nor to replace the compressor oil. Duracool's both
>>> cheaper and performs much better than either R-12 or R-134a.
>>>
>>> I'm going to leave further explanation of Duracool, charging, etc., to
>>> others and talk a little about the HVAC and your mouse problem: You don't
>>> mention what year your coach is; that's important to HVAC work because
>>> there were significant differences between the 73/74, 75/76, and 77/78
>>> coaches. The best reference for attacking the somewhat limited cooling
>>> ability of the first to series is this:
>>> http://gmcws.org/Tech/air_conditioning/air_conditing.html
>>>
>>> Your HVAC box probably had rat's nests in side it. You can probably get
>>> most of them out by removing the blower on the right (passenger side); that
>>> gives access to the main air plenum. When you re-install the motor, be
>>> certain you get a GOOD ground connection; that's a perennial problem area.
>>> Another location for nests is behind the evaporator (which runs across the
>>> bottom of the HVAC box. The only access to that is through the small hole
>>> on the left lower side of the box where the fan speed control resistors are
>>> mounted. Remove that small plate and vacuum that area thoroughly.
>>>
>>> You really should also remove the front plate of the HVAC box to check
>>> there, and to renew the insulation on the damper doors, as suggested in the
>>> pamphlet above.
>>>
>>> HTH,
>>>
>>> Ken H.
>>> Americus, GA
>>> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
>>> www.gmcwipersetc.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 9:58 PM, Tim Jeffries wrote:
>>>
>>>> I am enjoying all the emails and blogs I get from the club
>>>> members. lots of valuable information.
>>>> However, I don't have a clue as to how to ask a question or to blog to
>>>> the group for info or to share some.
>>>> I'm not just new to GMC - but new to this forum-thing as well.
>>>>
>>>> So I wrote out in Word - and have cut and pasted my questions:
>>>>
>>>> I have no idea how to determine which of the several “models” of my 26
>>>> / 455 unit (possibly Canyonlands?) is. It seems most of those of you
>>>> that are posting these blogs know exactly which you have. How does
>>>> one tell? It was originally a kind of dark yellow/orange. (now
>>>> off-white w Blue shades of stripes).
>>>> My system is still the old “Freon” type R-12 since the system is
>>>> virtually empty (yes, thankfully, there was a small hiss when the
>>>> lines were opened) Indicating that there is probably NO MOISTURE in
>>>> the system, whew.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> My A/C system is still R-12 - it has never been converted.
>>>> ... But the Magic Bus hadn’t been driven for several
>>>> years. The PO (a neighbor) states that it "blows cold" but hadn't used
>>>> it for at least 6 years.
>>>> But then he only drove the vehicle 200 miles in the 7 years he owned
>>>> it. Then the mice took over (inside the A/c-Heating blower fan so he
>>>> quit running it while starting the vehicle.
>>>> He bought the vehicle to live in as a construction site vehicle/home while
>>>> re-building his house that had burned down in the terrible 2003
>>>> wild-fires in north SD County, so he rarely drove it and really didn't
>>>> have much to go on.
>>>>
>>>> So now that I'm Going to switch to R-134. What things are there to
>>>> consider?
>>>> I have not checked for leaks
>>>> – and now the hoses are off the vehicle. I took them in to have them
>>>> replaced (made-up) and the cost is a whopping $154 for the 3 hoses –
>>>> from a Parker Store [Comoso (Controlled Motion Solutions) - in
>>>> Escondido, CA]
>>>> Where I will possibly give them the green light once I hear back from
>>>> you/someone.
>>>>
>>>> A few Q's and concerns: 1. another trusted mechanic source (that USED
>>>> TO make up A/C lines) says: "Just put 'em back in. If they leak, it
>>>> may only be a half-pound a year or so -you can top that off (with
>>>> R-134)."
>>>> 2. my shade tree mechanic wants me to SPEND MONEY -(I don't want to
>>>> -if they are working) and replace the lines (thinking the rubber is
>>>> different from the rubber used on freon/R-134 hoses - now I believe he
>>>> is wrong in that thinking)
>>>> 3. the rubber hoses are the original hoses -how many more years will they
>>>> last?
>>>> 4. I'm a follower of "if it works, don't fix it" - but there is a
>>>> certain comfort in having "new" lines installed as well.
>>>> 5. the oil used in the compressor, which SHOULD light up once the
>>>> system is full - (we tested it and it seems good) is petroleum based
>>>> oil which doesn't get along with R-134 so it will be changed to the
>>>> mineral oil that will be put in when I throw the hoses back on (It
>>>> puts the machine "out of order" to take the compressor out just yet
>>>> -due to the v-belt system. The compressor gets emptied and filled with
>>>> mineral oil to match the R-134.)
>>>> In looking back on this, these aren't really questions, just that I'm
>>>> sure one of you folks has more info than the sum total of what my
>>>> (posted) knowledge-base is.
>>>> 6. the system apparently will take around 3.75 cans (at 12 oz.) of
>>>> R-134. Cost about $16-$18 per can incl tax, so around $75-$80.
>>>> Can I get R-134 cheaper somewhere? This was O'Reilly AP.
>>>> What would you do?
>>>>
>>>> I will take your answer to my call off the air....LOL.
>>>> Respectfully,
>>>> Tim - the Magic Bus 26er. 760-877-2778
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>> _______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182127 is a reply to message #182111] |
Tue, 28 August 2012 13:04 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
|
Senior Member |
|
|
My last message got sent before I was finished
1. Forget about R134a. DO NOT add 1 can just to get the dye.
2. Dye is not necessarily needed. I have had my GMC for 31 years and I have never added dye. If you really want dye you can buy a tube of it in a small amount of mineral oil and inject that in. I also believe Duracool is also available with due.
3. The original oil is mineral oil. It is only necessary to flush that out if you are using R134a and then you must use ester (synthetic) oil. However since you are now planning to use Diuracool it is compatible with either oil. The important thing is to NOT mix both oils into the system. They will form sludge and reall mess up things. So I suggest you should stick with mineral oil or else you would have to replace the dries and possibly the hoses and totally flush out the compressor, evaporator and condenser.
3. If you have replaced the o rings and then drawn a vacuum you should wait several hours and check the vacuum again to check if it is the same.
If you don't maintain a vacuum then you have a leak. An easy way to check for leaks is to pressurize the system to perhaps 80 or 100 psi using a nitrogen tank or even air from a compressor and then use a soap solution or a propane leak detector solution. Spray it on all fittings, hoses, and over the condenser coils. If you have a leak it will show up as bubbles and then you know where to make repairs. However, if the leak is inside the heater box you won't see it and you wouldn't see the dye there either unless you take off the cover of the box. Once a leak is found and fixed then you would have to draw a vacuum again and check it to see it holds and if it does fill it with approx 3 cans of Duracool and you'll be done.
You had stated that if it leaked you would replace the lines. I believe that the lines rarely leak. The o rings or the fittings on the lines sometimes leak. Sometimes all it takes us tightening of the fittings. The condenser is also a common place for a leak as stones sometimes cut a pin hole in the tubes.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
On Aug 28, 2012, at 10:31 AM, Tim Jeffries <landhound1@gmail.com> wrote:
> Ken H - thanks - just a bit of clarification. sorry, I should have
> mentioned in my Signature - its a 1973 . 26er.
> I have unfortunately removed the hoses, but have not yet made a move
> on refridgerant - you said : " you
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| Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182178 is a reply to message #182127] |
Tue, 28 August 2012 18:59 |
Tim Jeffries
Messages: 35
Registered: August 2012
Karma: 0
|
Member |
|
|
Great, cant wait toll the weekend to try this stuff. Going to order....
On Tue, Aug 28, 2012 at 11:04 AM, Emery Stora <emerystora@mac.com> wrote:
> My last message got sent before I was finished
>
>
> 1. Forget about R134a. DO NOT add 1 can just to get the dye.
>
> 2. Dye is not necessarily needed. I have had my GMC for 31 years and I have never added dye. If you really want dye you can buy a tube of it in a small amount of mineral oil and inject that in. I also believe Duracool is also available with due.
>
> 3. The original oil is mineral oil. It is only necessary to flush that out if you are using R134a and then you must use ester (synthetic) oil. However since you are now planning to use Diuracool it is compatible with either oil. The important thing is to NOT mix both oils into the system. They will form sludge and reall mess up things. So I suggest you should stick with mineral oil or else you would have to replace the dries and possibly the hoses and totally flush out the compressor, evaporator and condenser.
>
> 3. If you have replaced the o rings and then drawn a vacuum you should wait several hours and check the vacuum again to check if it is the same.
>
> If you don't maintain a vacuum then you have a leak. An easy way to check for leaks is to pressurize the system to perhaps 80 or 100 psi using a nitrogen tank or even air from a compressor and then use a soap solution or a propane leak detector solution. Spray it on all fittings, hoses, and over the condenser coils. If you have a leak it will show up as bubbles and then you know where to make repairs. However, if the leak is inside the heater box you won't see it and you wouldn't see the dye there either unless you take off the cover of the box. Once a leak is found and fixed then you would have to draw a vacuum again and check it to see it holds and if it does fill it with approx 3 cans of Duracool and you'll be done.
>
> You had stated that if it leaked you would replace the lines. I believe that the lines rarely leak. The o rings or the fittings on the lines sometimes leak. Sometimes all it takes us tightening of the fittings. The condenser is also a common place for a leak as stones sometimes cut a pin hole in the tubes.
>
>
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
>
> On Aug 28, 2012, at 10:31 AM, Tim Jeffries <landhound1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Ken H - thanks - just a bit of clarification. sorry, I should have
>> mentioned in my Signature - its a 1973 . 26er.
>> I have unfortunately removed the hoses, but have not yet made a move
>> on refridgerant - you said : " you
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182192 is a reply to message #182118] |
Tue, 28 August 2012 20:13 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| emerystora wrote on Tue, 28 August 2012 12:03 |
1. Forget about R134a. DO NOT add 1 can just to get the dye.
2. Dye is not necessarily needed. I have had my GMC for 31 years and I have never added dye. If you really want dye you can
3. The original oil is mineral oil. It is only necessary to flush that out if you are using R134a and then you must use ester (synthetic) oil. However since you are now planning to use Diuracool it is compatible with either oil. The important thing is to NOT mix both oils into the system. They will form sludge and reall mess up things.
3. If you have replaced the o rings and then drawn a vacuum you should wait several hiurs and check the vacuum again ic it is the same then you are ready to put in the duracool
If you haven't filled it yet an easy way to check for l
Emery
|
Emery,
I was answering his question of what do I do if I find a leak while applying a vacuum to the system?
Obviously, if there is no leak then there is no need for the dye.
I suggested the R-134 with dye only because it was easier for him and he could find it locally. When he finds the leak more than likely he will loose all of the R-134 while repairing the leak. He needed something in there beside the dye if he is chasing a leak and R-134 with dye was just easier.
I do not expect he will find any leaks since it had pressure on it before he removed the hoses and it had been sitting around for many years.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182195 is a reply to message #182192] |
Tue, 28 August 2012 20:25 |
Ray Erspamer
Messages: 1707
Registered: May 2007
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Karma: -3
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Since I switched to Duracool...haven't had to touch it.....the only way to go.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net>
Sender: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 20:13:02
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Reply-To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to
R-134
emerystora wrote on Tue, 28 August 2012 12:03
> 1. Forget about R134a. DO NOT add 1 can just to get the dye.
>
> 2. Dye is not necessarily needed. I have had my GMC for 31 years and I have never added dye. If you really want dye you can
>
> 3. The original oil is mineral oil. It is only necessary to flush that out if you are using R134a and then you must use ester (synthetic) oil. However since you are now planning to use Diuracool it is compatible with either oil. The important thing is to NOT mix both oils into the system. They will form sludge and reall mess up things.
>
> 3. If you have replaced the o rings and then drawn a vacuum you should wait several hiurs and check the vacuum again ic it is the same then you are ready to put in the duracool
>
> If you haven't filled it yet an easy way to check for l
>
> Emery
Emery,
I was answering his question of what do I do if I find a leak while applying a vacuum to the system?
Obviously, if there is no leak then there is no need for the dye.
I suggested the R-134 with dye only because it was easier for him and he could find it locally. When he finds the leak more than likely he will loose all of the R-134 while repairing the leak. He needed something in there beside the dye if he is chasing a leak and R-134 with dye was just easier.
I do not expect he will find any leaks since it had pressure on it before he removed the hoses and it had been sitting around for many years.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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Ray Erspamer
78 GMC Royale Center Kitchen
403, 3.70 Final Drive
Holley Sniper Quadrajet EFI System,
Holley Hyperspark Ignition System
414-484-9431
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| Re: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134 [message #182250 is a reply to message #182031] |
Wed, 29 August 2012 07:53 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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If the dash A/C had pressure - any at all - alls it likely needs is refirgerant. Get a case iof Dura-Cool<tm> and put about 2 1/2 cans in with one of the e-z fill hoses with a puncture pin on the valve. Works well, no internal change3s needed.
Â
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
From: Tim Jeffries <landhound1@gmail.com>
To: GMC BLOG <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 9:58 PM
Subject: [GMCnet] What model is this? AND Changing my A/C system over to R-134
I am enjoying all the emails and blogs I get from the club
members. lots of valuable information.
However, I don't have a clue as to how to ask a question or to blog to
the group for info or to share some.
I'm not just new to GMC - but new to this forum-thing as well.
So I wrote out in Word - and have cut and pasted my questions:
I have no idea how to determine which of the several “models” of my 26
/ 455 unit (possibly Canyonlands?) is. It seems most of those of you
that are posting these blogs know exactly which you have. How does
one tell? It was originally a kind of dark yellow/orange. (now
off-white w Blue shades of stripes).
My system is still the old “Freon” type R-12 since the system is
virtually empty (yes, thankfully, there was a small hiss when the
lines were opened) Indicating that there is probably NO MOISTURE in
the system, whew.
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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