| Best drag link [message #175809] |
Fri, 06 July 2012 19:40  |
PettyVTX
Messages: 363
Registered: April 2011
Location: Winder Ga.
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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This is the one that goes from the p/s pump to the relay arm I have 2 styles one is adjustable and the other 2 i have are fixed im assuming later styles. The adjustabe one is straight and the fixed has bends or bows in them. My question is why were there 2 styles and is the adjustable better?
Ex Avion now looking for a 23'
Jeep Wrangler Towd
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| Re: [GMCnet] Best drag link [message #175816 is a reply to message #175809] |
Fri, 06 July 2012 20:53  |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Ted,
I think you mean the tie rod (drag link) from the Pittman arm to the relay
arm. You definitely want to use the adjustable one. Dave Lenzi may want
the fixed ones; he cuts and threads them to make them adjustable.
When will your engine be ready?
Ken H.
On Fri, Jul 6, 2012 at 8:40 PM, Ted Petty wrote:
>
>
> This is the one that goes from the p/s pump to the relay arm I have 2
> styles one is adjustable and the other 2 i have are fixed im assuming later
> styles. The adjustabe one is straight and the fixed has bends or bows in
> them. My question is why were there 2 styles and is the adjustable better?
> --
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Ken Henderson
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www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: Best drag link [message #175823 is a reply to message #175809] |
Fri, 06 July 2012 21:21 |
PettyVTX
Messages: 363
Registered: April 2011
Location: Winder Ga.
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Hey Ken
Im just waiting on a few parts from Jim K. and i can finish had to stop for the 4th but back on track.Had my alt and starter rebuilt new everything where i can. I still have to seal my intake i think in going to grind out the port and install the plate and just make it a permanant fix. Thanks for the info on the drag link i was wanting to use the adjustable one just for the adj. factor. So much to do i probably wont get to finish this summer but maybe by the fall. The heat has slowed me down.I am going to cut the radiator support and weld the brackets on but im still thinking about what to do the horse collar. Might as well do it all while its all out.
Ex Avion now looking for a 23'
Jeep Wrangler Towd
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| Re: Best drag link [message #175825 is a reply to message #175823] |
Fri, 06 July 2012 21:26 |
midlf
Messages: 2212
Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
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| PettyVTX wrote on Fri, 06 July 2012 21:21 |
I am going to cut the radiator support and weld the brackets on.
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Bolt the brackets together, weld the brackets on, THEN make the cut. That way the dimensions will stay the same for sure.
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
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| Re: Best drag link [message #175826 is a reply to message #175825] |
Fri, 06 July 2012 21:34 |
PettyVTX
Messages: 363
Registered: April 2011
Location: Winder Ga.
Karma: 1
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Steve I seen a picture where someone used a door hinge pretty clean looking. Thanks for the tip weld first cut later i can see where that might be a problem if it was still installed but i have a extra support that i can twist and move to whatever angle i need but that is one mod that will deffinetly be done.
| midlf wrote on Fri, 06 July 2012 21:26 |
| PettyVTX wrote on Fri, 06 July 2012 21:21 |
I am going to cut the radiator support and weld the brackets on.
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Bolt the brackets together, weld the brackets on, THEN make the cut. That way the dimensions will stay the same for sure.
|
Ex Avion now looking for a 23'
Jeep Wrangler Towd
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| Re: [GMCnet] Best drag link [message #175835 is a reply to message #175823] |
Fri, 06 July 2012 23:12 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Ted,
By "grind out the port", I presume you're referring to my note about using
a router on the intake. If not, consider trying it -- it's amazing how
easily it's done. I'd never have guessed that a carbide router bit would
work so well on cast iron. Have you considered installing "dams" between
the center exhaust ports on the heads? I've never done it, but when I got
to know Joe Mondello, he convinced me that it's important -- he wouldn't
let a head go without it.
I know what you mean about the heat. I've been very slow for the past
couple of weeks. But I am making a little progress on the
grill-to-radiator ducting. I expect to finish that tomorrow. I'd hoped to
use 10g diamond plate aluminum, but "my" welding shop didn't have any
scraps large enough. My friendly owner offered to let's cut a new 4x8
sheet, but I wouldn't agree to that. I was there recently when he
commented that they were now costing him something like $175!
The 1/8" thick plastic truck mud flaps I've had hanging around for years
are going to work just fine. I've got most of the cutting done & just need
to assemble and install the pieces tomorrow.
I"d definitely recommend Frank Jenkins' fiberglass shroud to replace the
horse collar. I split mine horizontally on each side and spliced it back
together with aluminum angles. 3 each 1/4-20 bolts on each side, with
captive nuts on the top angles, are easily accessible from below. Those,
plus two bolts into the horizontal channel of the radiator support, are all
I have to remove to give unrestricted access to everything on the front of
the engine.
Ken
On Fri, Jul 6, 2012 at 10:21 PM, Ted Petty <PettyVTX@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hey Ken
> ...Im just waiting on a few parts from Jim K. and i can finish had to stop
> for the 4th but back on track.Had my alt and starter rebuilt new everything
> where i can. I still have to seal my intake i think in going to grind out
> the port and install the plate and just make it a permanant fix. Thanks for
> the info on the drag link i was wanting to use the adjustable one just for
> the adj. factor. So much to do i probably wont get to finish this summer
> but maybe by the fall. The heat has slowed me down.I am going to cut the
> radiator support and weld the brackets on but im still thinking about what
> to do the horse collar. Might as well do it all while its all out.
> --
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: Best drag link [message #175849 is a reply to message #175809] |
Sat, 07 July 2012 07:14 |
PettyVTX
Messages: 363
Registered: April 2011
Location: Winder Ga.
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Ok now i have to know. I will fall for it what dams in the ports? I am going to grind out the intake and install a stainless steel plate all i can find is.040 thick S/S do you think thats thick enough or too thin to last if i use steel will that last? If i can dam the heads (no pun there) what help will that be ive got headers to help it breathe doesnt restricting the ports defeat that purpose. Im just askin
Ex Avion now looking for a 23'
Jeep Wrangler Towd
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| Re: Best drag link [message #175854 is a reply to message #175849] |
Sat, 07 July 2012 07:48 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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Sir: the center exhaust port for the olds is shared by 2 clyinders. The "dam" between the two cyls does not fill all the way to the header gasket. Usually builders braze the dam to be flush with the gasket making the cyls independent. It only does any good when using headers.
.40 SS should be plenty. Reg steel will rust out.
| PettyVTX wrote on Sat, 07 July 2012 08:14 |
Ok now i have to know. I will fall for it what dams in the ports? I am going to grind out the intake and install a stainless steel plate all i can find is.040 thick S/S do you think thats thick enough or too thin to last if i use steel will that last? If i can dam the heads (no pun there) what help will that be ive got headers to help it breathe doesnt restricting the ports defeat that purpose. Im just askin
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: [GMCnet] Best drag link [message #175863 is a reply to message #175852] |
Sat, 07 July 2012 10:18 |
PettyVTX
Messages: 363
Registered: April 2011
Location: Winder Ga.
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Rob i did order the Patterson gasket set and the Mondello valley tray from Jim K. i was just thinking of a permanent fix for my rig so i could someday be a kind and generous well raved about previous P.O. But not for a long time from now.Now i know what exhaust port you guys were talking about. Mine is ressesed a little but i think i will let it ride unless there is a huge performance difference.
Ex Avion now looking for a 23'
Jeep Wrangler Towd
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| Re: [GMCnet] Best drag link [message #175866 is a reply to message #175863] |
Sat, 07 July 2012 10:32 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Ted,
I have a bucket of Hard Blok I bought from Summit Racing. That's the stuff
that drag racers fill their water jackets with. I made up a plate to block
the exhaust crossover so I can fill it with this stuff. I won't have time to
mess with it before Helen arrives (next Saturday) but I intend to try it on
a cracked intake to see if it will seal up the crack and work.
If it does we have a cheap ($100) fix for cracked manifolds that ANYBODY can
do!
There is a down side, however, the Hard Block is HEAVY and will make
installing the cast iron manifold a weight lifting session!
As far as the exhaust port mod goes a good welder could do it in an hour or
less I'll bet.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ted Petty
Rob i did order the Patterson gasket set and the Mondello valley tray from
Jim K. i was just thinking of a permanent fix for my rig so i could someday
be a kind and generous well raved about previous P.O. But not for a long
time from now.Now i know what exhaust port you guys were talking about. Mine
is ressesed a little but i think i will let it ride unless there is a huge
performance difference.
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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