Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Radiator Leaking
| Radiator Leaking [message #172319] |
Wed, 06 June 2012 21:12  |
Jon payne
Messages: 495
Registered: May 2008
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Since early April I have been preparing the GMC for our family trip out east. Longest trip so far in the GMC. 9 days 1500+ miles. We are meeting my brother and his wife in Seneca Rocks WV. We will camp there for 3 nights then on to Williamsburg for 3 nights. From there we spend two nights in Chincoteaque Island however we will be in a hotel. The onto my brothers place in MD for a few days. Should be fun....and uneventful I hope!
So since April I have installed the Rockwell intake, repainted the dash, side panels and front cap, and installed new carpet. Also installed NOS airbags (which by the way made a nice improvement to the ride!), installed new Norcold fridge, installed macerator and last project, so I thought, install a Dakota Digital cruise control. So the last thing I wanted to see was the radiator leaking just a week before our trip...sheez in never ends.
I checked out Gene's GMC info site and saw the write up about removing the radiator with out removing the frame it sits in. I gotta tell you it works like a charm. I took my time and did it under two hours. Could probably do it in an hour now that I know what to do. So I will take the radiator in the shop first thing in the morning and hopefully they can have it repaired by Friday. Oh, and to sure I knew were the leak was I rented a pressure tester from Autozone and pressurized to 7 psi. I found the leak write away.
I also tested the cap. I pumped it up to 9psi and it would pop the relief valve. Then I pumped it to 7psi and it leaked downed quickly so I will replace it. I checked Gene's site for the cap too and found a few PNs. NAPA has a cross reference for the Stant but it is a 10psi cap. Would the be okay to use?
Jon
Jon Payne
76 Palm Beach
Westfield,IN
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator Leaking [message #172320 is a reply to message #172319] |
Wed, 06 June 2012 21:31  |
RicksGMC
Messages: 145
Registered: May 2012
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Jon,
This is a little off topic and please excuse my newbie ignorance but what is the "NOS" airbags that you referred to?
Airbag replacement is one many projects I have to look forward to and I haven't decided which style to go with yet.
Rick Drummond
Prior Lake MN
1974 (re-)Painted Desert 26'
TZE064V100077
Photos: http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/u18085-r-drummond.html
Email: RandTs.GMC@gmail.com
On Jun 6, 2012, at 9:12 PM, Jon Payne <embrep@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
> Since early April I have been preparing the GMC for our family trip out east. Longest trip so far in the GMC. 9 days 1500+ miles. We are meeting my brother and his wife in Seneca Rocks WV. We will camp there for 3 nights then on to Williamsburg for 3 nights. From there we spend two nights in Chincoteaque Island however we will be in a hotel. The onto my brothers place in MD for a few days. Should be fun....and uneventful I hope!
>
> So since April I have installed the Rockwell intake, repainted the dash, side panels and front cap, and installed new carpet. Also installed NOS airbags (which by the way made a nice improvement to the ride!), installed new Norcold fridge, installed macerator and last project, so I thought, install a Dakota Digital cruise control. So the last thing I wanted to see was the radiator leaking just a week before our trip...sheez in never ends.
>
> I checked out Gene's GMC info site and saw the write up about removing the radiator with out removing the frame it sits in. I gotta tell you it works like a charm. I took my time and did it under two hours. Could probably do it in an hour now that I know what to do. So I will take the radiator in the shop first thing in the morning and hopefully they can have it repaired by Friday. Oh, and to sure I knew were the leak was I rented a pressure tester from Autozone and pressurized to 7 psi. I found the leak write away.
>
> I also tested the cap. I pumped it up to 9psi and it would pop the relief valve. Then I pumped it to 7psi and it leaked downed quickly so I will replace it. I checked Gene's site for the cap too and found a few PNs. NAPA has a cross reference for the Stant but it is a 10psi cap. Would the be okay to use?
>
> Jon
>
>
> --
> Jon Payne
> 76 Palm Beach
> Westfield,IN
> _______________________________________________
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Rick&Tammy Drummond
Prior Lake MN
'74 (re)Painted Desert
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator Leaking [message #172321 is a reply to message #172319] |
Wed, 06 June 2012 21:31 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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If the radiator is original or very old I would be hesitant to put a fresh cap on it. I would see what the radiator shop says about the condition of the radiator. Higher pressures inside the radiator provided by the new cap could produce more leaks.
Just what I remember from high school hotrodding of old muscle cars. If I remember correctly, replace leaky water pump with new one and thermostat then blow a weak hose. Replace the hose and lose the radiator next.
Sully
77 royale
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 6, 2012, at 7:12 PM, Jon Payne <embrep@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
> Since early April I have been preparing the GMC for our family trip out east. Longest trip so far in the GMC. 9 days 1500+ miles. We are meeting my brother and his wife in Seneca Rocks WV. We will camp there for 3 nights then on to Williamsburg for 3 nights. From there we spend two nights in Chincoteaque Island however we will be in a hotel. The onto my brothers place in MD for a few days. Should be fun....and uneventful I hope!
>
> So since April I have installed the Rockwell intake, repainted the dash, side panels and front cap, and installed new carpet. Also installed NOS airbags (which by the way made a nice improvement to the ride!), installed new Norcold fridge, installed macerator and last project, so I thought, install a Dakota Digital cruise control. So the last thing I wanted to see was the radiator leaking just a week before our trip...sheez in never ends.
>
> I checked out Gene's GMC info site and saw the write up about removing the radiator with out removing the frame it sits in. I gotta tell you it works like a charm. I took my time and did it under two hours. Could probably do it in an hour now that I know what to do. So I will take the radiator in the shop first thing in the morning and hopefully they can have it repaired by Friday. Oh, and to sure I knew were the leak was I rented a pressure tester from Autozone and pressurized to 7 psi. I found the leak write away.
>
> I also tested the cap. I pumped it up to 9psi and it would pop the relief valve. Then I pumped it to 7psi and it leaked downed quickly so I will replace it. I checked Gene's site for the cap too and found a few PNs. NAPA has a cross reference for the Stant but it is a 10psi cap. Would the be okay to use?
>
> Jon
>
>
> --
> Jon Payne
> 76 Palm Beach
> Westfield,IN
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator Leaking [message #172326 is a reply to message #172320] |
Wed, 06 June 2012 21:45 |
Jon payne
Messages: 495
Registered: May 2008
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Hi Rick, NOS stands for New Old Stock. It means the part is old in age but new in the since that the part has never been installed.
Jon
Jon Payne
76 Palm Beach
Westfield,IN
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator Leaking [message #172328 is a reply to message #172321] |
Wed, 06 June 2012 21:45 |
mickeysss
Messages: 1476
Registered: January 2012
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I was going to say the same thing, raise the pressure put more holes in it. WHen you wash out the radiator with a hose do it lightly, the soft metal can creep out leaks easy and do not drop
it or lean it on anything and let it hit anything it puts holes in it like paper. IT is always better to get a new one for you spend twice as much trying to save money. for the next thing is the engine
when it over heats over and over. i have learned this about 5 times. with radiators, plus radiator shops love people that want more fans, try and fix it with leaks, they make more money than
a new one. just order one from Jim K, and hope no one drops it. But you can just put in the stop leak for a while but carry lots of water get about 10 one gallon waters and put them
under your bed. Put mobil one it allows over heating and driving farther before the bearings go out. Always buy a new one unless you know a really good soldiering man. really good.
I have lost about 2,000 dollars trying to make old radiators work. It cost less to get the new one, always. It hurts but it ends and you can look at the gauge and it stays low for the next
few years with all the a/c on etc, trust me spend for new and stop the blues. but i lie sometimes as well regards mick. Get good filler as well. get a hose that goes from your water pump to the front,
get two caps, one that has a flapper on it, so you can empty it fast without tearing your skin off and put water in from the one gallon jugs fast and start the engine to keep
the head gaskets from blowing, when it over heats pull over and pour water on it,
On Jun 6, 2012, at 7:31 PM, Todd Sullivan wrote:
> If the radiator is original or very old I would be hesitant to put a fresh cap on it. I would see what the radiator shop says about the condition of the radiator. Higher pressures inside the radiator provided by the new cap could produce more leaks.
> Just what I remember from high school hotrodding of old muscle cars. If I remember correctly, replace leaky water pump with new one and thermostat then blow a weak hose. Replace the hose and lose the radiator next.
>
> Sully
> 77 royale
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 6, 2012, at 7:12 PM, Jon Payne <embrep@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Since early April I have been preparing the GMC for our family trip out east. Longest trip so far in the GMC. 9 days 1500+ miles. We are meeting my brother and his wife in Seneca Rocks WV. We will camp there for 3 nights then on to Williamsburg for 3 nights. From there we spend two nights in Chincoteaque Island however we will be in a hotel. The onto my brothers place in MD for a few days. Should be fun....and uneventful I hope!
>>
>> So since April I have installed the Rockwell intake, repainted the dash, side panels and front cap, and installed new carpet. Also installed NOS airbags (which by the way made a nice improvement to the ride!), installed new Norcold fridge, installed macerator and last project, so I thought, install a Dakota Digital cruise control. So the last thing I wanted to see was the radiator leaking just a week before our trip...sheez in never ends.
>>
>> I checked out Gene's GMC info site and saw the write up about removing the radiator with out removing the frame it sits in. I gotta tell you it works like a charm. I took my time and did it under two hours. Could probably do it in an hour now that I know what to do. So I will take the radiator in the shop first thing in the morning and hopefully they can have it repaired by Friday. Oh, and to sure I knew were the leak was I rented a pressure tester from Autozone and pressurized to 7 psi. I found the leak write away.
>>
>> I also tested the cap. I pumped it up to 9psi and it would pop the relief valve. Then I pumped it to 7psi and it leaked downed quickly so I will replace it. I checked Gene's site for the cap too and found a few PNs. NAPA has a cross reference for the Stant but it is a 10psi cap. Would the be okay to use?
>>
>> Jon
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jon Payne
>> 76 Palm Beach
>> Westfield,IN
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: Radiator Leaking [message #172360 is a reply to message #172341] |
Thu, 07 June 2012 08:21 |
Jon payne
Messages: 495
Registered: May 2008
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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HI Larry,
I just dropped off at Charlies this morning. He said he will have it ready by end of the day tomorrow!
Thanks,
Jon
Jon Payne
76 Palm Beach
Westfield,IN
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| Re: Radiator Leaking [message #172363 is a reply to message #172319] |
Thu, 07 June 2012 08:48 |
shawnee
Messages: 422
Registered: February 2004
Location: NC
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| Jon Payne wrote on Wed, 06 June 2012 22:12 |
Since early April I have been preparing the GMC for our family trip out east. Longest trip so far in the GMC. 9 days 1500+ miles. We are meeting my brother and his wife in Seneca Rocks WV. We will camp there for 3 nights then on to Williamsburg for 3 nights. From there we spend two nights in Chincoteaque Island however we will be in a hotel. The onto my brothers place in MD for a few days. Should be fun....and uneventful I hope!
So since April I have installed the Rockwell intake, repainted the dash, side panels and front cap, and installed new carpet. Also installed NOS airbags (which by the way made a nice improvement to the ride!), installed new Norcold fridge, installed macerator and last project, so I thought, install a Dakota Digital cruise control. So the last thing I wanted to see was the radiator leaking just a week before our trip...sheez in never ends.
I checked out Gene's GMC info site and saw the write up about removing the radiator with out removing the frame it sits in. I gotta tell you it works like a charm. I took my time and did it under two hours. Could probably do it in an hour now that I know what to do. So I will take the radiator in the shop first thing in the morning and hopefully they can have it repaired by Friday. Oh, and to sure I knew were the leak was I rented a pressure tester from Autozone and pressurized to 7 psi. I found the leak write away.
I also tested the cap. I pumped it up to 9psi and it would pop the relief valve. Then I pumped it to 7psi and it leaked downed quickly so I will replace it. I checked Gene's site for the cap too and found a few PNs. NAPA has a cross reference for the Stant but it is a 10psi cap. Would the be okay to use?
Jon
|
Jon,
Ten psi radiator cap shouldn't be a problem with a recore radiator. I use a 13 psi cap with the Aluminum radiator and have for several years. I would suggest using the Stant radiator cap with the red lever on top. When you lift the lever it is much easier taking taking the cap off. Trying to push down on a 10 pound spring in a cramped area while rotating the cap is a real chore. With the lever pulled up it is a piece of cake.
Gene Dotson
74 Canyonlands
www.bdub.net/Motorhome_Enhancements New Windows and Aluminum Radiators
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator Leaking [message #172373 is a reply to message #172328] |
Thu, 07 June 2012 09:13 |
 |
Tangerine
Messages: 192
Registered: February 2004
Location: Livonia, MI
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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On 6/6/2012 10:45 PM, mickey's space ship shuttle wrote:
> I was going to say the same thing, raise the pressure put more holes in it. WHen you wash out the radiator with a hose do it lightly, the soft metal can creep out leaks easy and do not drop
>
> it or lean it on anything and let it hit anything it puts holes in it like paper. IT is always better to get a new one for you spend twice as much trying to save money. for the next thing is the engine
>
> when it over heats over and over. i have learned this about 5 times. with radiators, plus radiator shops love people that want more fans, try and fix it with leaks, they make more money than
>
> a new one. just order one from Jim K, and hope no one drops it. But you can just put in the stop leak for a while but carry lots of water get about 10 one gallon waters and put them
>
> under your bed. Put mobil one it allows over heating and driving farther before the bearings go out. Always buy a new one unless you know a really good soldiering man. really good.
>
> I have lost about 2,000 dollars trying to make old radiators work. It cost less to get the new one, always. It hurts but it ends and you can look at the gauge and it stays low for the next
> few years with all the a/c on etc, trust me spend for new and stop the blues. but i lie sometimes as well regards mick. Get good filler as well. get a hose that goes from your water pump to the front,
>
> get two caps, one that has a flapper on it, so you can empty it fast without tearing your skin off and put water in from the one gallon jugs fast and start the engine to keep
>
> the head gaskets from blowing, when it over heats pull over and pour water on it,
>
> On Jun 6, 2012, at 7:31 PM, Todd Sullivan wrote:
You should let it cool down first. I guess this should be common
knowledge. I have cracked the heads on to of my vehicles by pouring in
water before they cooled down. Please do not do as I did.
Gary W. Mills (Livonia MI)
. ___________
./_][__][] []| 1974 GMC M/H
.*O-------OO-* Painted Desert
"Tangerine Dream" W/New Frame
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1974 GMC 260
Tangerine Dream
Livonia Michigan
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| [GMCnet] Stuck in Visalia, CA [message #172394 is a reply to message #172341] |
Thu, 07 June 2012 09:09 |
Fin Beven
Messages: 101
Registered: September 2005
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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We were in the beautiful Stoney Creek campground, Sequoia National Park yesterday morning, and had a very difficult time getting the engine started. I literally had to run the starter for 30 seconds, 3 - 4 times until it finally kicked over. Quite reluctantly.
We made it down from the mountains.
11 miles north of the city of Visalia, on Highway 63, we came to a stop at a stoplight. I could feel the engine faltering. With the green light, I accelerated across the intersection, but there it died.
It would not re-start.
Called Triple-A, and 30 minutes later we were being towed to Roger Vogt's repair shop, www.PerformanceAutoAndAir.com. We arrived there at about 4:30 yesterday afternoon.
Roger introduced himself, and told us that he had worked on several GMCs over the years. He said that they would go to work first thing this morning, and would call to let us know what can be done to get us back on the road.
Their courtesy car took us to a near-by Mariott, where we are now.
Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
Fin Beven
1976 ex-Edgemont
Pasadena, CA
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Stuck in Visalia, CA [message #172400 is a reply to message #172394] |
Thu, 07 June 2012 11:20 |
Gary Worobec
Messages: 867
Registered: May 2005
Karma: -1
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Fin. Was it real hot out. Could be serious vapor lock. You have a carb,
right?
Thanks,
Gary Worobec
Director, Product Development
PAXTON/PATTERSON
(O) 951-763-0518
(C) 773-230-6226
gtw5@earthlink.net
www.paxtonpatterson.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fin Beven" <Fin.Beven@bevenandbrock.com>
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2012 7:09 AM
Subject: [GMCnet] Stuck in Visalia, CA
> We were in the beautiful Stoney Creek campground, Sequoia National Park
> yesterday morning, and had a very difficult time getting the engine
> started. I literally had to run the starter for 30 seconds, 3 - 4 times
> until it finally kicked over. Quite reluctantly.
>
> We made it down from the mountains.
>
> 11 miles north of the city of Visalia, on Highway 63, we came to a stop at
> a stoplight. I could feel the engine faltering. With the green light,
> I accelerated across the intersection, but there it died.
>
> It would not re-start.
>
> Called Triple-A, and 30 minutes later we were being towed to Roger Vogt's
> repair shop, www.PerformanceAutoAndAir.com. We arrived there at about
> 4:30 yesterday afternoon.
>
> Roger introduced himself, and told us that he had worked on several GMCs
> over the years. He said that they would go to work first thing this
> morning, and would call to let us know what can be done to get us back on
> the road.
>
> Their courtesy car took us to a near-by Mariott, where we are now.
>
> Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Fin Beven
> 1976 ex-Edgemont
> Pasadena, CA
>
>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] Stuck in Visalia, CA [message #172403 is a reply to message #172394] |
Thu, 07 June 2012 11:23 |
Gary Worobec
Messages: 867
Registered: May 2005
Karma: -1
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Senior Member |
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Maybe:
1. HEI module failing
2. Vapor lock, although you said that it was hard to start even cold.
3. Fuel blockage, maybe the fuel filter either in the carb or if you have an
auxiliary.
4. Maybe the voltage resister to the coil if you still have a points
ignition.
Thanks,
Gary Worobec
Director, Product Development
PAXTON/PATTERSON
(O) 951-763-0518
(C) 773-230-6226
gtw5@earthlink.net
www.paxtonpatterson.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fin Beven" <Fin.Beven@bevenandbrock.com>
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2012 7:09 AM
Subject: [GMCnet] Stuck in Visalia, CA
> We were in the beautiful Stoney Creek campground, Sequoia National Park
> yesterday morning, and had a very difficult time getting the engine
> started. I literally had to run the starter for 30 seconds, 3 - 4 times
> until it finally kicked over. Quite reluctantly.
>
> We made it down from the mountains.
>
> 11 miles north of the city of Visalia, on Highway 63, we came to a stop at
> a stoplight. I could feel the engine faltering. With the green light,
> I accelerated across the intersection, but there it died.
>
> It would not re-start.
>
> Called Triple-A, and 30 minutes later we were being towed to Roger Vogt's
> repair shop, www.PerformanceAutoAndAir.com. We arrived there at about
> 4:30 yesterday afternoon.
>
> Roger introduced himself, and told us that he had worked on several GMCs
> over the years. He said that they would go to work first thing this
> morning, and would call to let us know what can be done to get us back on
> the road.
>
> Their courtesy car took us to a near-by Mariott, where we are now.
>
> Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Fin Beven
> 1976 ex-Edgemont
> Pasadena, CA
>
>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] Stuck in Visalia, CA [message #172407 is a reply to message #172400] |
Thu, 07 June 2012 11:47 |
Fin Beven
Messages: 101
Registered: September 2005
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
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Gary ... No, not hot. It was down in the low-30s overnight at 7,000 feet. that's when we had trouble starting it the first time. When it died just north of Visalia, temps were in the 80s.
The shop just called and said that there is a short in the Coil, and they are going to replace the complete Pertronix distributor assembly.
If it gets us on the road, I'll be happy.
Fin Beven
On Jun 7, 2012, at 9:20 AM, "Gary Worobec" <gtw5@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Fin. Was it real hot out. Could be serious vapor lock. You have a carb,
> right?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary Worobec
> Director, Product Development
> PAXTON/PATTERSON
> (O) 951-763-0518
> (C) 773-230-6226
> gtw5@earthlink.net
> www.paxtonpatterson.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fin Beven" <Fin.Beven@bevenandbrock.com>
> To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
> Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2012 7:09 AM
> Subject: [GMCnet] Stuck in Visalia, CA
>
>
>> We were in the beautiful Stoney Creek campground, Sequoia National Park
>> yesterday morning, and had a very difficult time getting the engine
>> started. I literally had to run the starter for 30 seconds, 3 - 4 times
>> until it finally kicked over. Quite reluctantly.
>>
>> We made it down from the mountains.
>>
>> 11 miles north of the city of Visalia, on Highway 63, we came to a stop at
>> a stoplight. I could feel the engine faltering. With the green light,
>> I accelerated across the intersection, but there it died.
>>
>> It would not re-start.
>>
>> Called Triple-A, and 30 minutes later we were being towed to Roger Vogt's
>> repair shop, www.PerformanceAutoAndAir.com. We arrived there at about
>> 4:30 yesterday afternoon.
>>
>> Roger introduced himself, and told us that he had worked on several GMCs
>> over the years. He said that they would go to work first thing this
>> morning, and would call to let us know what can be done to get us back on
>> the road.
>>
>> Their courtesy car took us to a near-by Mariott, where we are now.
>>
>> Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
>>
>> Fin Beven
>> 1976 ex-Edgemont
>> Pasadena, CA
>>
>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>> _______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] Radiator Leaking [message #172419 is a reply to message #172397] |
Thu, 07 June 2012 12:40 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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I ordered a set of KYB shocks from Applied and received them in three days.
On Thu, Jun 7, 2012 at 10:07 AM, larry.whisler <larry.whisler@hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>
> Jon,
>
> I'm in Dallas and all of my reference material is in
> Indy.
>
> If you buy from JimK, you're probly not going to get them
> for several days.
>
> The GM Motorhome parts manual lists it as p/n #3901449 radiator mounting
> pad.
>
> i don't know the current cross ref number.
>
> larry
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--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
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Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
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