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'78 Dash A/C [message #170437] Mon, 21 May 2012 15:30 Go to next message
JShot is currently offline  JShot   United States
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Went out camping for the weekend, and tried the dash A/C on the way home today. It still works from last year when we changed over to Duracool! Amazing! But the compressor runs (howls) for 20 seconds and the air gets REAL cold, then the compressor shuts off for 20 seconds, and the air gets outside hot. 20 on, 20 off. That seems like too much cycling. Do I need to check the refrigerant "level" again? Does it sound low? If it's low, and I add some more Duracool, will the dash air still get as cold?

Thanks,

John


John Shotwell
Ridgeville Corners, OH
78 Royale Center Kitchen
Re: '78 Dash A/C [message #170442 is a reply to message #170437] Mon, 21 May 2012 16:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bob de Kruyff   United States
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JShot wrote on Mon, 21 May 2012 14:30

Went out camping for the weekend, and tried the dash A/C on the way home today. It still works from last year when we changed over to Duracool! Amazing! But the compressor runs (howls) for 20 seconds and the air gets REAL cold, then the compressor shuts off for 20 seconds, and the air gets outside hot. 20 on, 20 off. That seems like too much cycling. Do I need to check the refrigerant "level" again? Does it sound low? If it's low, and I add some more Duracool, will the dash air still get as cold?

Thanks,

John

There's a cycling switch in front of the evaporator. It may be mispositioned. I can't explain the howling compressor however. I would definitely check the refrigerant first.


Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
Re: [GMCnet] '78 Dash A/C [message #170444 is a reply to message #170437] Mon, 21 May 2012 17:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Mr ERFisher is currently offline  Mr ERFisher   United States
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Could it be the belt making the noise?

FREE WIFI @ Mickey D





On May 21, 2012, at 1:30 PM, John Shotwell <jshot@rtecexpress.net> wrote:

>
>
> Went out camping for the weekend, and tried the dash A/C on the way home today. It still works from last year when we changed over to Duracool! Amazing! But the compressor runs (howls) for 20 seconds and the air gets REAL cold, then the compressor shuts off for 20 seconds, and the air gets outside hot. 20 on, 20 off. That seems like too much cycling. Do I need to check the refrigerant "level" again? Does it sound low? If it's low, and I add some more Duracool, will the dash air still get as cold?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
> --
> John Shotwell
> Ridgeville Corners, OH
> 78 Royale Center Kitchen
> Web Site: GMCmhRegistry.com /
> Email: john@gmcmhregistry.com
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Re: '78 Dash A/C [message #170445 is a reply to message #170437] Mon, 21 May 2012 17:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
C Boyd is currently offline  C Boyd   United States
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Hi Shot: When I first redid my ac system I put 134a in and it worked good, then leaked out some over the winter and would not start the compressor so I evacuated then recharged with 3 cans 12a. It worked all summer and over the winter it leaked just enough to cycle as yours is doing so I added another can and has worked 2 seasons now with no additions. Just what happened to me..




JShot wrote on Mon, 21 May 2012 16:30

Went out camping for the weekend, and tried the dash A/C on the way home today. It still works from last year when we changed over to Duracool! Amazing! But the compressor runs (howls) for 20 seconds and the air gets REAL cold, then the compressor shuts off for 20 seconds, and the air gets outside hot. 20 on, 20 off. That seems like too much cycling. Do I need to check the refrigerant "level" again? Does it sound low? If it's low, and I add some more Duracool, will the dash air still get as cold?

Thanks,

John



C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
Re: '78 Dash A/C [message #170471 is a reply to message #170437] Mon, 21 May 2012 21:09 Go to previous messageGo to next message
roy1 is currently offline  roy1   United States
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JShot wrote on Mon, 21 May 2012 13:30

Went out camping for the weekend, and tried the dash A/C on the way home today. It still works from last year when we changed over to Duracool! Amazing! But the compressor runs (howls) for 20 seconds and the air gets REAL cold, then the compressor shuts off for 20 seconds, and the air gets outside hot. 20 on, 20 off. That seems like too much cycling. Do I need to check the refrigerant "level" again? Does it sound low? If it's low, and I add some more Duracool, will the dash air still get as cold?

Thanks,

John



As it has been suggested the cold air temperature thermostat may be set too high I believe they are adjustable. If so place the sensing bulb in a glass of cold ice water and set to around 36 degrees cut out. Also you could be a little low on Duracool this will lower the discharge air off the coil and cause the thermostat we talked about to open. Check the suction pressure at 1500 RPM it should be around 25 or pounds if it is much less you are low on refrigerant.


Roy Keen Minden,NV 76 X Glenbrook
Re: '78 Dash A/C [message #170482 is a reply to message #170471] Mon, 21 May 2012 23:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
John Sharpe is currently offline  John Sharpe   United States
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Quote:

..... ac compressor 20 on, 20 off.....


I suspect the high side has too low a pressure and you are cycling on the low pressure switch. Probably need a bit more refrigerant (12a). As Bob, Chuck, and roy1 suggested, Low pressure between 20-25 @ 1500.


John Sharpe
Humble,TX
'78 Eleganza TBI
'89 Spectrum 2000 MPI V-10
'40 Ford Panel Delivery TPI
johnasharpe@gmail.com
Re: '78 Dash A/C [message #170523 is a reply to message #170482] Tue, 22 May 2012 10:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
roy1 is currently offline  roy1   United States
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John Sharpe wrote on Mon, 21 May 2012 21:26

Quote:

..... ac compressor 20 on, 20 off.....


I suspect the high side has too low a pressure and you are cycling on the low pressure switch. Probably need a bit more refrigerant (12a). As Bob, Chuck, and roy1 suggested, Low pressure between 20-25 @ 1500.



Does the 78 have a low pressure switch?? My 76 only has a loss of charge switch in the liquid line. Just wondering.


Roy Keen Minden,NV 76 X Glenbrook
Re: [GMCnet] '78 Dash A/C [message #170525 is a reply to message #170523] Tue, 22 May 2012 11:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
emerystora is currently offline  emerystora   United States
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On May 22, 2012, at 9:58 AM, roy@gmcnet.org wrote:

>
>
> John Sharpe wrote on Mon, 21 May 2012 21:26
>> Quote:
>>> ..... ac compressor 20 on, 20 off.....
>>
>>
>> I suspect the high side has too low a pressure and you are cycling on the low pressure switch. Probably need a bit more refrigerant (12a). As Bob, Chuck, and roy1 suggested, Low pressure between 20-25 @ 1500.
>
>
>
> Does the 78 have a low pressure switch?? My 76 only has a loss of charge switch in the liquid line. Just wondering.
> --
> Roy Keen

Roy - that is a low pressure switch. If you are getting low on charge it will cause the compressor clutch to cycle on and off. If you lose you charge totally it will not allow the compressor clutch to run at all.

Emery Stora


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Re: [GMCnet] '78 Dash A/C [message #170531 is a reply to message #170525] Tue, 22 May 2012 12:11 Go to previous messageGo to next message
roy1 is currently offline  roy1   United States
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[quote title=emerystora wrote on Tue, 22 May 2012 09:12]
On May 22, 2012, at 9:58 AM, roy@gmcnet.org wrote:

>
>
> John Sharpe wrote on Mon, 21 May 2012 21:26
>> Quote:
>>> ..... ac compressor 20 on, 20 off.....
>>
>>
>> I suspect the high side has too low a pressure and you are cycling on the low pressure switch. Probably need a bit more refrigerant (12a). As Bob, Chuck, and roy1 suggested, Low pressure between 20-25 @ 1500.
>
>
>
> Does the 78 have a low pressure switch?? My 76 only has a loss of charge switch in the liquid line. Just wondering.
> --
> Roy Keen

Roy - that is a low pressure switch. If you are getting low on charge it will cause the compressor clutch to cycle on and off. If you lose you charge totally it will not allow the compressor clutch to run at all.

Emery Stora


Yeah but being in the liquid line it only locks the compressor out when you are very low on refrigerant that is why it is called a loss of charge switch.If the system were a little low on refrigerant this type of low pressure control won't cycle the compressor as it is located on the high pressure side, the evap coil thermostat will cycle it. If it were in the suction line it would be a true low pressure switch and the compressor would cycle on and off with just a partial loss of charge. Some of the newer vehicles have both a high pressure cutout in the discharge or liquid line and a low pressure cutout in the suction line. I was just wondering if the 78 actually had a low pressure control in the suction line.


Roy Keen Minden,NV 76 X Glenbrook
Re: '78 Dash A/C [message #170542 is a reply to message #170437] Tue, 22 May 2012 13:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
bwevers is currently offline  bwevers   United States
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Roy,
You sound like you know what you're talking about.
How many years did you work in air conditioning? Smile

Regards,
Bill




Bill Wevers GMC49ers, GMC Western States 1975 Glenbrook - Manny Powerdrive, OneTon 455 F Block, G heads San Jose
Re: '78 Dash A/C [message #170572 is a reply to message #170542] Tue, 22 May 2012 19:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
roy1 is currently offline  roy1   United States
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bwevers wrote on Tue, 22 May 2012 11:26

Roy,
You sound like you know what you're talking about.
How many years did you work in air conditioning? Smile

Regards,
Bill





37 short years I'm glad I retired just as a lot of stuff started getting computer controlled


Roy Keen Minden,NV 76 X Glenbrook
Re: '78 Dash A/C [message #170573 is a reply to message #170437] Tue, 22 May 2012 19:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
kingd is currently offline  kingd   Canada
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Yikes, I try not to be critical of things being done by other people but I notice 2 potentially EXPENSIVE statements in the posts of this thread. The original poster said he had Duracool in his system and someone said top it up with R12, yes I know they are cpmpatible but now you have a mixed system that a LOT of places will NOT evacuate and it is ILLEGAL to vent to the atmosphere. Some one else had R134 in his system and topped it up with R12. These are NOT compatible. I also haven't heard of an oil that works with both. Hope he doesn't end up with a damaged system. Not trying to be picky !!!

DAVE KING
P.S. I did read the thread twice to try to keep foot out of mouth


DAVE KING lurker, wannabe Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Re: '78 Dash A/C [message #170575 is a reply to message #170573] Tue, 22 May 2012 19:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
roy1 is currently offline  roy1   United States
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kingd wrote on Tue, 22 May 2012 17:25

Yikes, I try not to be critical of things being done by other people but I notice 2 potentially EXPENSIVE statements in the posts of this thread. The original poster said he had Duracool in his system and someone said top it up with R12, yes I know they are compatible but now you have a mixed system that a LOT of places will NOT evacuate and it is ILLEGAL to vent to the atmosphere. Some one else had R134 in his system and topped it up with R12. These are NOT compatible. I also haven't heard of an oil that works with both. Hope he doesn't end up with a damaged system. Not trying to be picky !!!

DAVE KING
P.S. I did read the thread twice to try to keep foot out of mouth



The oil used with 134 can be used with R12. R12 oil which is mineral oil isn't compatible with 134. You are correct no one will want to recover a Duracool R12 mix but it will work OK in the system. If you top off a 134 system with R12 the system should have PAC or Ester oil in it so it will function OK as the operating pressures are close and they will mix. The only problem is charging with 134 if oil used is Mineral oil. R12 and Duracool are happy with any of the oils.


Roy Keen Minden,NV 76 X Glenbrook
Re: [GMCnet] '78 Dash A/C [message #170586 is a reply to message #170575] Tue, 22 May 2012 21:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
emerystora is currently offline  emerystora   United States
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Yes, but my question is why??? R12 is expensive and getting harder to find -- also it is not as efficient as Duracool.

Emery Stora

On May 22, 2012, at 6:43 PM, roy@gmcnet.org wrote:

>
>
> kingd wrote on Tue, 22 May 2012 17:25
>> Yikes, I try not to be critical of things being done by other people but I notice 2 potentially EXPENSIVE statements in the posts of this thread. The original poster said he had Duracool in his system and someone said top it up with R12, yes I know they are compatible but now you have a mixed system that a LOT of places will NOT evacuate and it is ILLEGAL to vent to the atmosphere. Some one else had R134 in his system and topped it up with R12. These are NOT compatible. I also haven't heard of an oil that works with both. Hope he doesn't end up with a damaged system. Not trying to be picky !!!
>>
>> DAVE KING
>> P.S. I did read the thread twice to try to keep foot out of mouth
>
>
>
> The oil used with 134 can be used with R12. R12 oil which is mineral oil isn't compatible with 134. You are correct no one will want to recover a Duracool R12 mix but it will work OK in the system. If you top off a 134 system with R12 the system should have PAC or Ester oil in it so it will function OK as the operating pressures are close and they will mix. The only problem is charging with 134 if oil used is Mineral oil. R12 and Duracool are happy with any of the oils.
> --
> Roy Keen
> Minden,NV
> 76 X Glenbrook
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Re: [GMCnet] '78 Dash A/C [message #170619 is a reply to message #170586] Wed, 23 May 2012 10:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
roy1 is currently offline  roy1   United States
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[quote title=emerystora wrote on Tue, 22 May 2012 19:19]Yes, but my question is why??? R12 is expensive and getting harder to find -- also it is not as efficient as Duracool.

Emery Stora

On May 22, 2012, at 6:43 PM, roy@gmcnet.org wrote:

>
>
> kingd wrote on Tue, 22 May 2012 17:25
>> Yikes, I try not to be critical of things being done by other people but I notice 2 potentially EXPENSIVE statements in the posts of this thread. The original poster said he had Duracool in his system and someone said top it up with R12, yes I know they are compatible but now you have a mixed system that a LOT of places will NOT evacuate and it is ILLEGAL to vent to the atmosphere. Some one else had R134 in his system and topped it up with R12. These are NOT compatible. I also haven't heard of an oil that works with both. Hope he doesn't end up with a damaged system. Not trying to be picky !!!
>>
>> DAVE KING
>> P.S. I did read the thread twice to try to keep foot out of mouth
>
>
>
> The oil used with 134 can be used with R12. R12 oil which is mineral oil isn't compatible with 134. You are correct no one will want to recover a Duracool R12 mix but it will work OK in the system. If you top off a 134 system with R12 the system should have PAC or Ester oil in it so it will function OK as the operating pressures are close and they will mix. The only problem is charging with 134 if oil used is Mineral oil. R12 and Duracool are happy with any of the oils.
> --
> Roy Keen
> Minden,NV
> 76 X Glenbrook
> _______________________________________________
>Emory I agree 100% if I didn't have any R12 I would use Duracool R12 is too damn expensive I can remember when anyone could buy 30 lbs of R12 for $30 . Duracool is a little more efficent than R12 but I kind of like working with R12 rather then Duracool its easier to weigh in & the sight glass still works. I also would rather have Duracool than 134 as it is noticebly more efficient and colder. You make a good point.


Roy Keen Minden,NV 76 X Glenbrook
Re: [GMCnet] '78 Dash A/C [message #170625 is a reply to message #170619] Wed, 23 May 2012 11:43 Go to previous messageGo to next message
emerystora is currently offline  emerystora   United States
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Roy. -- I thought that you said in a former post that you were going to top up a Durocool system with R 12.

If that is the case then your sight glass is not going to work as it will show bubbles even when fully charged.

Emery Stora

>> __________________
>> Emery I agree 100% if I didn't have any R12 I would use Duracool R12 is too damn expensive I can remember when anyone could buy 30 lbs of R12 for $30 . Duracool is a little more efficent than R12 but I kind of like working with R12 rather then Duracool its easier to weigh in & the sight glass still works. I also would rather have Duracool than 134 as it is noticebly more efficient and colder. You make a good point.
> --
> Roy Keen
> Minden,NV
> 76 X Glenbrook
> ___
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Re: [GMCnet] '78 Dash A/C [message #170631 is a reply to message #170625] Wed, 23 May 2012 12:55 Go to previous message
roy1 is currently offline  roy1   United States
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[quote title=emerystora wrote on Wed, 23 May 2012 09:43]Roy. -- I thought that you said in a former post that you were going to top up a Durocool system with R 12.

If that is the case then your sight glass is not going to work as it will show bubbles even when fully charged.

Emery Stora

>> __________________
>> Emery I agree 100% if I didn't have any R12 I would use Duracool R12 is too damn expensive I can remember when anyone could buy 30 lbs of R12 for $30 . Duracool is a little more efficent than R12 but I kind of like working with R12 rather then Duracool its easier to weigh in & the sight glass still works. I also would rather have Duracool than 134 as it is noticeably more efficient and colder. You make a good point.
> --
> Roy Keen
> Minden,NV
> 76 X Glenbrook
> ___
As you know that would not be legal to do so and then have an air condition shop recover it and send it to a reclaim outfit. My motor home has 100% R12 in it till I run out. I will say that as far as adding a small amount of R12 to top off the Duracool cause you were out of Duracool or you didn't want to waste the major amount left in the can and you had a little R12 laying around it would work but most folks don't have small amounts laying around. I have 4 different types of refrigerant in my garage. I have a recovery machine and some recovery tanks . I always try to recover the charge that may be left, fix a problem and then put it back in. It's not that easy to find Duracool around here the stores don't have it. It needs to be shipped and that takes time when you are already in the process of charging your system. If I were working on a vehicle that was designed for 134 that is what I would use because I have a 30 lb cylinder. I just replaced a compressor in a Friends truck I recovered what 134 was in the system then put it back in & the 2 - 12 ounce cans he gave me which wasn't quite enough so I gave it a few ounces from my 30 lb can.


Roy Keen Minden,NV 76 X Glenbrook
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