Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Coyles roller chain for 455.
| Coyles roller chain for 455. [message #169755] |
Tue, 15 May 2012 12:06  |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Ok, I given up figuring out their online catalog.
What Coyles chain and gear set do I need for 455?
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Coyles roller chain for 455. [message #169770 is a reply to message #169755] |
Tue, 15 May 2012 13:59  |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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Hi Ken: The Cloyes 9-3113 is the one if your engine has never been line bored or line honed. center to center from crank to cam is 5.044 stock. The Cloyes timing chain is available in .005 undersize (9-3113-5) and .010 undersize (9-3113-10) for line honed or line bored applications.
| Ken Burton wrote on Tue, 15 May 2012 13:06 |
Ok, I given up figuring out their online catalog.
What Coyles chain and gear set do I need for 455?
|
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455. [message #169801 is a reply to message #169793] |
Tue, 15 May 2012 19:54 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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When a line hone or line bore is done is moves the centerline of the
crank closer to the centerline of the cam. They cut the main caps and
then cut is taken out of the block to make it round again.
> Chuck,
>
> I'm confused!
>
> If you line bore the main bearing saddles in an engine to align them
> I thought they would be in the same relative position vis-ą-vis
> the cam the only difference would be the OD of the main bearing
> shells.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charles Boyd
>
> Hi Ken: The Cloyes 9-3113 is the one if your engine has never been
> line bored or line honed. center to center from crank to cam
> is 5.044 stock. The Cloyes timing chain is available in .005
> undersize (9-3113-5) and .010 undersize (9-3113-10) for line honed or
> line bored applications.
>
> Ken Burton wrote on Tue, 15 May 2012 13:06
>> Ok, I given up figuring out their online catalog.
>>
>> What Coyles chain and gear set do I need for 455?
>
> C. Boyd
>
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: Coyles roller chain for 455. [message #169820 is a reply to message #169755] |
Tue, 15 May 2012 22:12 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Thanks guys for the information. I'm getting smarter as the day progresses. Tomorrow I should be a genius on timing chains.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455. [message #169847 is a reply to message #169801] |
Wed, 16 May 2012 08:21 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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We used to do automotive blocks on the same Torbin-Arp machine we did the flat motors on. The centerlines didn't change. Moving the centerline will also change the deck height of the engine. This might be desirable in a V engine, it surely isn't in a flat motor. You'd end upwith one side having a higher compression ratio than the other. In that direction lies broken engines.
I can see, however, that offsetting the centers a bit might well allow for quicker - easier setup and honing if all you did were V auto engines. And in that it's usually the hotrodder who wants the bennies of getting everything in the same plane, an increase in deck height might be to his advantage.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
From: John Wright <powerjon@chartermi.net>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 8:54 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455.
When a line hone or line bore is done is moves the centerline of the
crank closer to the centerline of the cam. They cut the main caps and
then cut is taken out of the block to make it round again.
> Chuck,
>
> I'm confused!
>
> If you line bore the main bearing saddles in an engine to align them
> I thought they would be in the same relative position vis-ą-vis
> the cam the only difference would be the OD of the main bearing
> shells.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charles Boyd
>
> Hi Ken: The Cloyes 9-3113 is the one if your engine has never been
> line bored or line honed. center to center from crank to cam
> is 5.044 stock. The Cloyes timing chain is available in .005
> undersize (9-3113-5) and .010 undersize (9-3113-10) for line honed or
> line bored applications.
>
> Ken Burton wrote on Tue, 15 May 2012 13:06
>> Ok, I given up figuring out their online catalog.
>>
>> What Coyles chain and gear set do I need for 455?
>
> C. Boyd
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455. [message #169853 is a reply to message #169847] |
Wed, 16 May 2012 08:52 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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Hi Johnny, I see your point but it seems raising the crank in a line bore or line hone would theoretically lower the deck height (but not actually as to change the head height and effect the non adjustable pushrod clearance) as the pistons would actually be higher in the bore. However this is effected by which head gasket you use. Stock Olds gaskets compress to ~.27 and aftermarket head gaskets compress to ~.45 or more. Just more stuff that makes an Olds motor special.
[quote title=Johnny Bridges wrote on Wed, 16 May 2012 09:21]We used to do automotive blocks on the same Torbin-Arp machine we did the flat motors on. The centerlines didn't change. Moving the centerline will also change the deck height of the engine. This might be desirable in a V engine, it surely isn't in a flat motor. You'd end upwith one side having a higher compression ratio than the other. In that direction lies broken engines.
I can see, however, that offsetting the centers a bit might well allow for quicker - easier setup and honing if all you did were V auto engines. And in that it's usually the hotrodder who wants the bennies of getting everything in the same plane, an increase in deck height might be to his advantage.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455. [message #169866 is a reply to message #169853] |
Wed, 16 May 2012 11:44 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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Depends which way you call up :) If you 'raise' it further into the main bearing caps, you're actually lowering it, and this would lower the deck height. I think my basic concern is, why not keep the centers where they've always been? Moving it up or down is going to change all the geometry of the engine to a degree. There's no great benefit in that, and there is potential for problems.
Again, though, we're talking about large displacement undersquare engines which don't see 3500 RPM in normal service anyway. Consequently, unloess I had a compelling reason, I wouldn't mess with the 455 much at all. At the engine speeds it sees in this service, it is time not well used methinks. Shine it up and build it back to stock. Heavy up the cam drive and put good valve seats in it and it should run a long time under load.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
From: Charles Boyd <covered-wagon@comcast.net>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 9:52 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455.
Hi Johnny, I see your point but it seems raising the crank in a line bore or line hone would theoretically lower the deck height (but not actually as to change the head height and effect the non adjustable pushrod clearance) as the pistons would actually be higher in the bore. However this is effected by which head gasket you use. Stock Olds gaskets compress to ~.27 and aftermarket head gaskets compress to ~.45 or more. Just more stuff that makes an Olds motor special.
[quote title=Johnny Bridges wrote on Wed, 16 May 2012 09:21]We used to do automotive blocks on the same Torbin-Arp machine we did the flat motors on. The centerlines didn't change. Moving the centerline will also change the deck height of the engine. This might be desirable in a V engine, it surely isn't in a flat motor. You'd end upwith one side having a higher compression ratio than the other. In that direction lies broken engines.
I can see, however, that offsetting the centers a bit might well allow for quicker - easier setup and honing if all you did were V auto engines. And in that it's usually the hotrodder who wants the bennies of getting everything in the same plane, an increase in deck height might be to his advantage.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont by Midas
East Tennessee
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455. [message #169870 is a reply to message #169866] |
Wed, 16 May 2012 13:14 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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There are at least two popular ways to align bore an engine. One is to
grind .010" or .020" from the mating face of the main bearing caps, and
then bolt them back into place. Then depending upon whether you are using a
fly cutter (boring bar) or a machine like a CK-10 line hone that uses
abrasive stones mounted in a rotating shaft, the elliptical hole is cut
until it is round again. If your technique is accurate, you wind up with
main bearing bores that are the same size as the original factory bores, so
the OEM style bearings still fit. If you grind that much off the main caps,
when you are all finished, the centerline of the crankshaft is closer to
the centerline of the camshaft bore by the amount you cut to make the hole
round again. That is why you would use a slightly shorter timing chain set
to account for the slack created.
One other way does not involve machining the main caps. The exact
distance from the deck to the centerline of the crank on each end of both
sides of a V type engine is determined by precision measurement, as well as
the bore centerlines. Adjusting for deck height differences and bore
centerline, an exact centerline is established for the crankshaft. While
the engine block is supported in the machine, the new crank bore is
machined. This results in a larger diameter crank bore. Oversized main
bearings are then fitted to the block that have the original inside
diameter. This is what is supposed to be done when an engine
is "blueprinted". There are not very many automotive machinists who will do
this proceedure, it takes too much time, and time in a machine shop is very
expensive.
On an engine like the Olds 455 in our Motorhomes that rarely sees 3700
RPM, in my opinion, align bore without reason is a waste of money. If there
are conditions that create an engine block that is in need of align bore,
it is simpler to find another good well seasoned block and use it. I used
to have an automotive machine shop, and have experience with both of these
techniques. If a customer arrives at your shop with a pocket full of
benjamins that he is real anxious to part with, It is good for the economy
to keep them in circulation.<grin>
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 9:44 AM, Johnny Bridges <jhbridges@ymail.com> wrote:
> Depends which way you call up :) If you 'raise' it further into the main
> bearing caps, you're actually lowering it, and this would lower the deck
> height. I think my basic concern is, why not keep the centers where
> they've always been? Moving it up or down is going to change all the
> geometry of the engine to a degree. There's no great benefit in that, and
> there is potential for problems.
> Again, though, we're talking about large displacement undersquare engines
> which don't see 3500 RPM in normal service anyway. Consequently, unloess I
> had a compelling reason, I wouldn't mess with the 455 much at all. At the
> engine speeds it sees in this service, it is time not well used methinks.
> Shine it up and build it back to stock. Heavy up the cam drive and put
> good valve seats in it and it should run a long time under load.
>
> --johnny
>
> '76 23' transmode norris
> '76 palm beach
>
>
> From: Charles Boyd <covered-wagon@comcast.net>
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 9:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455.
>
>
>
> Hi Johnny, I see your point but it seems raising the crank in a line
> bore or line hone would theoretically lower the deck height (but not
> actually as to change the head height and effect the non adjustable pushrod
> clearance) as the pistons would actually be higher in the bore. However
> this is effected by which head gasket you use. Stock Olds gaskets compress
> to ~.27 and aftermarket head gaskets compress to ~.45 or more. Just more
> stuff that makes an Olds motor special.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [quote title=Johnny Bridges wrote on Wed, 16 May 2012 09:21]We used to do
> automotive blocks on the same Torbin-Arp machine we did the flat motors
> on. The centerlines didn't change. Moving the centerline will also change
> the deck height of the engine. This might be desirable in a V engine, it
> surely isn't in a flat motor. You'd end upwith one side having a higher
> compression ratio than the other. In that direction lies broken engines.
> I can see, however, that offsetting the centers a bit might well allow for
> quicker - easier setup and honing if all you did were V auto engines. And
> in that it's usually the hotrodder who wants the bennies of getting
> everything in the same plane, an increase in deck height might be to his
> advantage.
>
> --johnny
>
> '76 23' transmode norris
> '76 palm beach
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont by Midas
> East Tennessee
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455. [message #169872 is a reply to message #169870] |
Wed, 16 May 2012 13:40 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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""There are at least two popular ways to align bore an engine. One is to
grind .010" or .020" from the mating face of the main bearing caps, and
then bolt them back into place. Then depending upon whether you are using a
fly cutter (boring bar) or a machine like a CK-10 line hone that uses
abrasive stones mounted in a rotating shaft, the elliptical hole is cut
until it is round again. If your technique is accurate, you wind up with
main bearing bores that are the same size as the original factory bores, so
the OEM style bearings still fit. If you grind that much off the main caps,
when you are all finished, the centerline of the crankshaft is closer to
the centerline of the camshaft bore by the amount you cut to make the hole
round again. That is why you would use a slightly shorter timing chain set
to account for the slack created.
One other way does not involve machining the main caps. The exact
distance from the deck to the centerline of the crank on each end of both
sides of a V type engine is determined by precision measurement, as well as
the bore centerlines. Adjusting for deck height differences and bore
centerline, an exact centerline is established for the crankshaft. While
the engine block is supported in the machine, the new crank bore is
machined. This results in a larger diameter crank bore. Oversized main
bearings are then fitted to the block that have the original inside
diameter. This is what is supposed to be done when an engine
is "blueprinted". There are not very many automotive machinists who will do
this proceedure, it takes too much time, and time in a machine shop is very
expensive.
On an engine like the Olds 455 in our Motorhomes that rarely sees 3700
RPM, in my opinion, align bore without reason is a waste of money. If there
are conditions that create an engine block that is in need of align bore,
it is simpler to find another good well seasoned block and use it. I used
to have an automotive machine shop, and have experience with both of these
techniques. If a customer arrives at your shop with a pocket full of
benjamins that he is real anxious to part with, It is good for the economy
to keep them in circulation.<grin>
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
Very interesting! Never knew how that was or could be done.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455. [message #169890 is a reply to message #169870] |
Wed, 16 May 2012 17:24 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Jim,
Thanks, I knew about both methods but didn't realize the effects of the first one. Between this and the detailed article I received
OFF NET I understand it fully now.
I just had a VW line bar bored and they used the second method and that's why I asked the question in the first place.
BTW Doc Fromander notes that the same thing in his book Big Inch Cadillac vis-ą-vis the main bearing in the Caddy 500. I had the
alignment checked in the Caddy 500 I have here by the machine shop in Houston and they found it to spot on.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: James Hupy
There are at least two popular ways to align bore an engine. One is to
grind .010" or .020" from the mating face of the main bearing caps, and
then bolt them back into place. Then depending upon whether you are using a
fly cutter (boring bar) or a machine like a CK-10 line hone that uses
abrasive stones mounted in a rotating shaft, the elliptical hole is cut
until it is round again. If your technique is accurate, you wind up with
main bearing bores that are the same size as the original factory bores, so
the OEM style bearings still fit. If you grind that much off the main caps,
when you are all finished, the centerline of the crankshaft is closer to
the centerline of the camshaft bore by the amount you cut to make the hole
round again. That is why you would use a slightly shorter timing chain set
to account for the slack created.
One other way does not involve machining the main caps. The exact
distance from the deck to the centerline of the crank on each end of both
sides of a V type engine is determined by precision measurement, as well as
the bore centerlines. Adjusting for deck height differences and bore
centerline, an exact centerline is established for the crankshaft. While
the engine block is supported in the machine, the new crank bore is
machined. This results in a larger diameter crank bore. Oversized main
bearings are then fitted to the block that have the original inside
diameter. This is what is supposed to be done when an engine
is "blueprinted". There are not very many automotive machinists who will do
this proceedure, it takes too much time, and time in a machine shop is very
expensive.
On an engine like the Olds 455 in our Motorhomes that rarely sees 3700
RPM, in my opinion, align bore without reason is a waste of money. If there
are conditions that create an engine block that is in need of align bore,
it is simpler to find another good well seasoned block and use it. I used
to have an automotive machine shop, and have experience with both of these
techniques. If a customer arrives at your shop with a pocket full of
benjamins that he is real anxious to part with, It is good for the economy
to keep them in circulation.<grin>
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455. [message #170067 is a reply to message #169872] |
Fri, 18 May 2012 06:16 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
|
Senior Member |
|
|
The fun ones are flat motors like a VW or an aviation engine. You can't grind any metal away that isn't replaced.. The deck height (half case width) must remain the same, and the bore centers cannot be offset at all. For the VW, it was cheaper to just buy a 'universal' case complete, which was about $125 when I was doing this. By comparison, a Lycoming IO-720 case was some several thousands of dollars. At that point, weldning and remachining becomes a viable option.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
From: Bob de Kruyff <NEXT2POOL@AOL.COM>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455.
""There are at least two popular ways to align bore an engine. One is to
grind .010" or .020" from the mating face of the main bearing caps, and
then bolt them back into place. Then depending upon whether you are using a
fly cutter (boring bar) or a machine like a CK-10 line hone that uses
abrasive stones mounted in a rotating shaft, the elliptical hole is cut
until it is round again. If your technique is accurate, you wind up with
main bearing bores that are the same size as the original factory bores, so
the OEM style bearings still fit. If you grind that much off the main caps,
when you are all finished, the centerline of the crankshaft is closer to
the centerline of the camshaft bore by the amount you cut to make the hole
round again. That is why you would use a slightly shorter timing chain set
to account for the slack created.
One other way does not involve machining the main caps. The exact
distance from the deck to the centerline of the crank on each end of both
sides of a V type engine is determined by precision measurement, as well as
the bore centerlines. Adjusting for deck height differences and bore
centerline, an exact centerline is established for the crankshaft. While
the engine block is supported in the machine, the new crank bore is
machined. This results in a larger diameter crank bore. Oversized main
bearings are then fitted to the block that have the original inside
diameter. This is what is supposed to be done when an engine
is "blueprinted". There are not very many automotive machinists who will do
this proceedure, it takes too much time, and time in a machine shop is very
expensive.
On an engine like the Olds 455 in our Motorhomes that rarely sees 3700
RPM, in my opinion, align bore without reason is a waste of money. If there
are conditions that create an engine block that is in need of align bore,
it is simpler to find another good well seasoned block and use it. I used
to have an automotive machine shop, and have experience with both of these
techniques. If a customer arrives at your shop with a pocket full of
benjamins that he is real anxious to part with, It is good for the economy
to keep them in circulation.<grin>
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
Very interesting! Never knew how that was or could be done.
--
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455. [message #170076 is a reply to message #170067] |
Fri, 18 May 2012 06:56 |
Kingsley Coach
Messages: 2691
Registered: March 2009
Location: Nova Scotia Canada
Karma: -34
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Senior Member |
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A little off topic, but when a VW block is line bored and/or the crank
turned, the bearings are ordered over or undersized to compensate for where
the material was removed.
That's the way I've always done it...
Mike in NS
On Fri, May 18, 2012 at 8:16 AM, Johnny Bridges <jhbridges@ymail.com> wrote:
> The fun ones are flat motors like a VW or an aviation engine. You can't
> grind any metal away that isn't replaced.. The deck height (half case
> width) must remain the same, and the bore centers cannot be offset at all.
> For the VW, it was cheaper to just buy a 'universal' case complete, which
> was about $125 when I was doing this. By comparison, a Lycoming IO-720
> case was some several thousands of dollars. At that point, weldning and
> remachining becomes a viable option.
>
> --johnny
> '76 23' transmode norris
> '76 palm beach
>
> From: Bob de Kruyff <NEXT2POOL@AOL.COM>
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 2:40 PM
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455.
>
>
>
> ""There are at least two popular ways to align bore an engine. One is to
> grind .010" or .020" from the mating face of the main bearing caps, and
> then bolt them back into place. Then depending upon whether you are using a
> fly cutter (boring bar) or a machine like a CK-10 line hone that uses
> abrasive stones mounted in a rotating shaft, the elliptical hole is cut
> until it is round again. If your technique is accurate, you wind up with
> main bearing bores that are the same size as the original factory bores, so
> the OEM style bearings still fit. If you grind that much off the main caps,
> when you are all finished, the centerline of the crankshaft is closer to
> the centerline of the camshaft bore by the amount you cut to make the hole
> round again. That is why you would use a slightly shorter timing chain set
> to account for the slack created.
> One other way does not involve machining the main caps. The exact
> distance from the deck to the centerline of the crank on each end of both
> sides of a V type engine is determined by precision measurement, as well as
> the bore centerlines. Adjusting for deck height differences and bore
> centerline, an exact centerline is established for the crankshaft. While
> the engine block is supported in the machine, the new crank bore is
> machined. This results in a larger diameter crank bore. Oversized main
> bearings are then fitted to the block that have the original inside
> diameter. This is what is supposed to be done when an engine
> is "blueprinted". There are not very many automotive machinists who will do
> this proceedure, it takes too much time, and time in a machine shop is very
> expensive.
> On an engine like the Olds 455 in our Motorhomes that rarely sees 3700
> RPM, in my opinion, align bore without reason is a waste of money. If there
> are conditions that create an engine block that is in need of align bore,
> it is simpler to find another good well seasoned block and use it. I used
> to have an automotive machine shop, and have experience with both of these
> techniques. If a customer arrives at your shop with a pocket full of
> benjamins that he is real anxious to part with, It is good for the economy
> to keep them in circulation.<grin>
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, OR
> 78 GMC Royale 403
>
> Very interesting! Never knew how that was or could be done.
> --
> Bob de Kruyff
> 78 Eleganza
> Chandler, AZ
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--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS
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| Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455. [message #171371 is a reply to message #169755] |
Wed, 30 May 2012 12:18 |
Jim Miller
Messages: 501
Registered: March 2008
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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On May 15, 2012, at 1:06 PM, Ken Burton wrote:
> Ok, I given up figuring out their online catalog.
> What Coyles chain and gear set do I need for 455?
Hi Ken, Cloyes 9-3113 as someone else mentioned.
I just put one of them in my Eleganza and it went in just fine. I used the +4 degree keyway position per Dick Paterson's recommendation.
73, Jim N8ECI
1977 Eleganza II
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH
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Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza II
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH
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| Re: [GMCnet] Coyles roller chain for 455. [message #171396 is a reply to message #170076] |
Wed, 30 May 2012 14:41 |
 |
WD0AFQ
Messages: 7111
Registered: November 2004
Location: Dexter, Mo.
Karma: 207
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| Kingsley Coach wrote on Fri, 18 May 2012 06:56 |
A little off topic, but when a VW block is line bored and/or the crank
turned, the bearings are ordered over or undersized to compensate for where
the material was removed.
That's the way I've always done it...
Mike in NS
--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS
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And you have always doe it right.
Guess Ken is a genious now. Its Wednesday.
Dan
3 In Stainless Exhaust Headers
One Ton All Discs/Reaction Arm
355 FD/Quad Bag/Alum Radiator Manny Tran/New eng.
Holley EFI/10 Tire Air Monitoring System
Solarized Coach/Upgraded Windows
Satelite TV/On Demand Hot Water/3Way Refer
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