| Water Heater Questions [message #163263] |
Sat, 17 March 2012 11:46  |
bhayes
Messages: 263
Registered: March 2010
Karma: 1
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So I finally finished installing the new plumbing and water pump around the fresh water tank (which was replaced by the PO) in my '76 Eleganza. I pressurized the system and was greeted by a nice stream of water coming from the water heater tank.
I pulled the water heater only to find a rusted hunk of steel. It's not the original tank, but rusted out nonetheless. I ordered a new stainless steel tank from Jim K, but have a couple of questions.
1. The water heater is missing the access door on the front control housing, leaving the electrical connections exposed. Any ideas on how to fabricate a new one?
2. Any ideas on how to insulate the new tank? The old insulation was unusable.
Thanks,
Bryan
Bryan Hayes
'76 Eleganza II
Salt Lake City, Utah
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| Re: [GMCnet] Water Heater Questions [message #163503 is a reply to message #163472] |
Mon, 19 March 2012 09:49  |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Michael, There are several possibilities. Spider webs in the orfice, soot
accumulation on the lips of the pilot burner that direct the heat of the
flame away from the safety thermocouple, too low of a flame height, bent
arm pointing the pilot flame away from the thermocouple, freaky wind
currents, not enough propane in the tank, not enough regulator pressure
from the tank, faulty control valve. There are probably more, but this
should get you well on your way to confusion. <Grin>
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
On Sun, Mar 18, 2012 at 10:08 PM, Michael Walker <cabelreyes5@hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>
> Why does my water heater's pilot light keep going out??
> --
> http://www.swim-fins.info
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| Re: [GMCnet] Water Heater Questions [message #163590 is a reply to message #163263] |
Mon, 19 March 2012 23:28 |
Dwayne
Messages: 418
Registered: October 2007
Location: White Rock BC
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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HI Bryan
I just finished installing the round Stainless Steel HWT purchased from Jim
K including the thermostate. I wrapped it with the Alum. faced insulation
that the HVAC Contractors use on Commercial jobs wrapping ductwork. Works
fine. I also replaced the Fresh Water Tank with a
one piece 12"x 14" x 35" poly - injection moulded tank and had them install
the fittings I needed
for Feed, Overflow and supply outlets. It sits in real nice. I cut 2
inch Foam and laid the foam on the
bottom and both sides. The only problems I had were getting all the joints
to "Not Leak" So now for the first Time in this coach both the Hot water
Heat from the engine source and the electric heating element work. Not on
propane. The tank I took out was full of rust. NOTE: make sure you put a
brass fitting on the drain located under the tank and the fitting to have
the valve attached. I first put a section of hose from the fitting to a
shut-off valve (where I figured it was easier to get to) but forgot about
the pressure in the tank and boy did that leak. Had to disconnect a lot
to get it up enough to
correct that.
Regards
Dwayne Jacobson
Cascaders
White Rock BC
77 Kingsley
Right now sitting in the Habour RV Park in Anaheim Cal.
Watched the fireworks out the front a few minutes ago.
Plan to attend the Cascaders White Rock Rally this August 2nd to 6th then
travel with us part way or all of Canada (Can join in segments)
you can email me at dwayne.jacobson@gmail.com
On Sat, Mar 17, 2012 at 9:46 AM, Bryan Hayes <hayesnet1@gmail.com> wrote:
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>
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Dwayne & Sharon Jacobson
White Rock, BC
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Water Heater Questions [message #163609 is a reply to message #163590] |
Tue, 20 March 2012 08:21 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Because the fresh water tank area is prone to collecting moisture, one
should give some thought to elevating the tank off of the floor. If the
tank sets directly on the floor, any water that gets beneath it will
promote rotting for a LONG time. When I did mine 13 years ago, I put down
some expanded aluminum mesh for the tank to set on. While it does not
allow a lot of air circulation, it does offer a little -- hopefully enough,
since I also thoroughly sealed the floor in that area. If I'd had more
time, I'd have fiberglassed it.
JWID,
Ken H.
On Tue, Mar 20, 2012 at 12:28 AM, Dwayne Jacobson wrote:
> ...The only problems I had were getting all the joints
> to "Not Leak" ...
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Water Heater Questions [message #163833 is a reply to message #163827] |
Thu, 22 March 2012 09:27 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Sorry, not link for aluminum mesh. Almost any general metal fabricator
might have scraps laying around. It's just "Expanded Aluminum". I had it
from a 4'x8' sheet I bought at a wholesaler to make radiator rock guards.
I'm not a fiberglass expert, so where I covered things, I just mixed up the
resin, poured it on, spread it around with a plastic Bondo spreader, then
laid in fiberglass cloth and saturated it with more resin where necessary.
A couple of outside compartments done that way 13 years ago have stood up
perfectly.
Ken H.
On Thu, Mar 22, 2012 at 9:28 AM, Bryan Hayes wrote:
>
>
> Ken, do you have a link to the aluminum mesh? And how would you go about
> fiberglassing the floor?
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Water Heater Questions [message #163848 is a reply to message #163827] |
Thu, 22 March 2012 11:29 |
rssbob
Messages: 259
Registered: January 2004
Location: La Mesa, Ca. (San Diego a...
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Bryan,
I got on a kick one time to clean up the sloppy installation of my water heater and fresh water tank under the bed on the passengers side of my Kingsley. I had also just installed a floating wood laminate floor and wanted to protect it from potential leaks in the water system.
I did just what Ken did. Cleaned up the area to be glassed, painted on a two part resin and hardener, laid the glass mat on top and saturated it with the epoxy. Worked like a champ.
Here are some pics.
The start.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=17322&cat=4493
Cleaned up and ready to go.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=17321&cat=4493
Done!
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=17324&cat=4493
Good luck.
On Mar 22, 2012, at 6:28 AM, Bryan Hayes wrote:
>
>
> Ken, do you have a link to the aluminum mesh? And how would you go about fiberglassing the floor?
>
> -Bryan
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Bob Sobrito
78 Palm Beach
La Mesa, Ca
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| Re: Water Heater Questions [message #163904 is a reply to message #163263] |
Thu, 22 March 2012 21:20 |
nchapekis
Messages: 165
Registered: February 2004
Location: Ypsilanti, MI
Karma: 0
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| Bryan Hayes wrote on Sat, 17 March 2012 12:46 |
1. The water heater is missing the access door on the front control housing, leaving the electrical connections exposed. Any ideas on how to fabricate a new one?
2. Any ideas on how to insulate the new tank? The old insulation was unusable.
|
Check out Arch's water heater replacement from a few years back, which shows how he did the insulation (same as I did mine, but I didn't take pictures):
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com/tech/water_heater2/index.html
Nick Chapekis
Ypsilanti, MI
former owner - 78 Kingsley
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