| Repair of delaminated cabinets [message #158647] |
Mon, 30 January 2012 21:24  |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Our lower cabinet work in the gaucho seating area was suffering from delamination due to moisture and age. At a glance they looked ok, but the storage locker lid was loose and the veneer was curling in a number of spots. Once I removed the cabinets I discovered the delam was even worse than I thought.
I decided to try Titebond III waterproof adhesive -- available from Lowes -- it has enough open time to allow you to drizzle it in between the plies and still secure it with clamps.
The plastic veneer surface cleaned up well with 3M plastic cleaner.
Oh, and it all started when I was checking out the fresh water system and found some split copper lines....might as well ...
Photos..
clamp time...
http://goo.gl/QPPlR
How bad was it..
http://goo.gl/ws6Ag
Finished --
http://goo.gl/iytWu
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: Repair of delaminated cabinets [message #158693 is a reply to message #158647] |
Tue, 31 January 2012 08:53  |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| Dennis S wrote on Mon, 30 January 2012 22:24 |
Our lower cabinet work in the gaucho seating area was suffering from delamination due to moisture and age. At a glance they looked ok, but the storage locker lid was loose and the veneer was curling in a number of spots. Once I removed the cabinets I discovered the delam was even worse than I thought.
I decided to try Titebond III waterproof adhesive -- available from Lowes -- it has enough open time to allow you to drizzle it in between the plies and still secure it with clamps.
The plastic veneer surface cleaned up well with 3M plastic cleaner.
Oh, and it all started when I was checking out the fresh water system and found some split copper lines....might as well ...
Photos..
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Dennis,
I guess it is not strange that two '73 23' would have a lot of the same issues. With my experience with plywood, I would never bother trying to re-laminate anything that I cannot get flat on my vacuum table. I would have used a laminating epoxy because the pot life is completely predictable and is flows very nicely.
The leaks in mine came from the roof seam. So, like done on decks and cabins, I raced (mechanically cleaned) all the old caulk out and refilled the seam. It will be white on the blue roof (Glacier) until the coach gets painted. I will be glad to live with that as we have had no evidence of leaks recently.
I used the piece at the foot as a template to cut a replacement. That was a mistake. I should have cut my own template - it would have been a much better fit. I didn't bother putting wood grain plastic over it.
I have replaced - and need to replace more - wood pieces in the headboard and included lazarette. Ours has a false bottom that hides about 4" of storage volume that I am trying to figure out how make usable.
The split water lines were under the sink in the head. When I replaced them, I used flexible plastic leaders to the taps. If you need to solder in those close spaces, get a BIG soldering gun and take the tip out. Then, push the two nuts up against the copped and hit the trigger. It will take several seconds for the copper to get hot enough for the solder to move.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: Repair of delaminated cabinets [message #158716 is a reply to message #158693] |
Tue, 31 January 2012 10:45 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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[quote title=Matt Colie wrote on Tue, 31 January 2012 08:53The Dennis,
I guess it is not strange that two '73 23' would have a lot of the same issues. With my experience with plywood, I would never bother trying to re-laminate anything that I cannot get flat on my vacuum table. I would have used a laminating epoxy because the pot life is completely predictable and is flows very nicely.
The leaks in mine came from the roof seam. So, like done on decks and cabins, I raced (mechanically cleaned) all the old caulk out and refilled the seam. It will be white on the blue roof (Glacier) until the coach gets painted. I will be glad to live with that as we have had no evidence of leaks recently.
I used the piece at the foot as a template to cut a replacement. That was a mistake. I should have cut my own template - it would have been a much better fit. I didn't bother putting wood grain plastic over it.
I have replaced - and need to replace more - wood pieces in the headboard and included lazarette. Ours has a false bottom that hides about 4" of storage volume that I am trying to figure out how make usable.
The split water lines were under the sink in the head. When I replaced them, I used flexible plastic leaders to the taps. If you need to solder in those close spaces, get a BIG soldering gun and take the tip out. Then, push the two nuts up against the copped and hit the trigger. It will take several seconds for the copper to get hot enough for the solder to move.
Matt [/quote]
Matt,
Yes, I had read some woooden boat forum comments on the use of epoxies with plywood -- perhaps my efforts will encourage others who may think they need special glues and equipment that more simple solutions may work. A 1x4 and lots of clamps seemed to keep ours flat and straight -- I did chose to laminate one side at a time with the worst sections -- and fortumately those were narrow panels. Agree on the fit and finish of the original -- they also loved staple guns.
Our leak was the result of the last two screw in the awning pulling up -- nice to have an awning, but it adds about 30-40 possible leak points.
Regards,
Dennis
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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