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| [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157260] |
Thu, 19 January 2012 07:54  |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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G'day,
This subject came up in the "Speaking of Balancing Beads" (SOBB) and I figger'd I'd start a new message to share my experience. In
the SOBB message it was noted that cars with hot tires would rip the paint off garage floors.
Before I moved into my "shed" I decided to paint the grey concrete panel walls white to reflect the light and the floor light grey
to stop the never ending dust that comes off concrete floors and make it easy to find dropped fasteners.
I went to an industrial paint store and was advised that it would be best to undercoat the walls then paint them white and that if I
didn't want hot car tires to damage the floor paint to use two pack epoxy paint. It wasn't cheap but here we are seven years later
and the floor is as good as new.
I even used it to paint the wooden floor of the mezzanine in my shed. The only problem I've had with that is that the paint cracked
along the floor panel seams which stands to reason as the wood floor probably expands, contracts, shifts, and bounces a bit.
Regards,
Rob M.
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157265 is a reply to message #157260] |
Thu, 19 January 2012 08:46  |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
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Ten years ago we had our present house built. When the cement contractor
pour the garage (24"x36") floor some walked thru the cement before it had
completely set up and left foot prints in the concrete. They than tried to
grind out the imprints but I wasn't satisfied with the results.
I suggested to them instead of redoing the concrete, I would except that
they epoxy paint the garage floor. Well I was talked into using a concrete
stain instead of the epoxy paint, what a mistake that was. Although a
Sherwin Williams rep did the prep and staining, the product did not stand
up. It looked great at first but through time the surface would get
stained from tires and dirt to where I would have to use soft scrub on the
concrete to retain a some what clean look. I spilled some gas on the floor
and that ate through the stain as well.
Some day after I retire I will redo the floor with epoxy paint.
On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 6:54 AM, Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au>wrote:
> G'day,
>
> This subject came up in the "Speaking of Balancing Beads" (SOBB) and I
> figger'd I'd start a new message to share my experience. In
> the SOBB message it was noted that cars with hot tires would rip the paint
> off garage floors.
>
> Before I moved into my "shed" I decided to paint the grey concrete panel
> walls white to reflect the light and the floor light grey
> to stop the never ending dust that comes off concrete floors and make it
> easy to find dropped fasteners.
>
> I went to an industrial paint store and was advised that it would be best
> to undercoat the walls then paint them white and that if I
> didn't want hot car tires to damage the floor paint to use two pack epoxy
> paint. It wasn't cheap but here we are seven years later
> and the floor is as good as new.
>
> I even used it to paint the wooden floor of the mezzanine in my shed. The
> only problem I've had with that is that the paint cracked
> along the floor panel seams which stands to reason as the wood floor
> probably expands, contracts, shifts, and bounces a bit.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Bruce Hart
GMC Wannabe
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Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
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| Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157269 is a reply to message #157260] |
Thu, 19 January 2012 10:07 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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| Robert Mueller wrote on Thu, 19 January 2012 06:54 |
G'day,
This subject came up in the "Speaking of Balancing Beads" (SOBB) and I figger'd I'd start a new message to share my experience. In
the SOBB message it was noted that cars with hot tires would rip the paint off garage floors.
Before I moved into my "shed" I decided to paint the grey concrete panel walls white to reflect the light and the floor light grey
to stop the never ending dust that comes off concrete floors and make it easy to find dropped fasteners.
I went to an industrial paint store and was advised that it would be best to undercoat the walls then paint them white and that if I
didn't want hot car tires to damage the floor paint to use two pack epoxy paint. It wasn't cheap but here we are seven years later
and the floor is as good as new.
I even used it to paint the wooden floor of the mezzanine in my shed. The only problem I've had with that is that the paint cracked
along the floor panel seams which stands to reason as the wood floor probably expands, contracts, shifts, and bounces a bit.
Regards,
Rob M.
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Rob, I have epoxy floor covering in my garage here in hot AZ. I have been totally careless about how I treat it--whether it be spilled chemicals(acetone, gasoline, brake fluid), abrasion, turning tires, and yes even driving hot tire onto it. If applied correctly, this stuff is virtually indestructable.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157271 is a reply to message #157260] |
Thu, 19 January 2012 10:10 |
Luvn737s
Messages: 1106
Registered: June 2007
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Years ago, the paint on a hangar floor would peel up if the hot tires were also wet. They would park jets on small scraps of carpet to preserve the paint.
Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157284 is a reply to message #157260] |
Thu, 19 January 2012 13:07 |
Craig Lechowicz
Messages: 541
Registered: October 2006
Location: Waterford, MI
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Harry,
I'm with you. Black & White checkerboards for the garage have been on my list for the last two years, but I think this year, I'll really do it.
Does anyone who has had a good experience want to talk brand names on epoxy? Maybe I'm too spendy, but for the price, I'm concerned, the rustoleum and Home-Depot type stuff just isn't good enough. Considering the labor to do checkerboards, I think splurging on materials is probably right.
There was a Mustang shop near me that had the checkerboards in epoxy. I talked to the owner, and he said it was the 2nd garage he had done that way. Being a working shop, it was used pretty hard. The 1st one he did, he used U-Coat-It, which he said had hot tire pickup issues. The one I saw, he used a Sherwin-Williams product, which he thought was a lot better. Unfortunately, I didn't remember the brand name, and they make about a 1,000 different ones. I have met with the Sherwin-Williams industrial dealer, and one of their customers that day was a guy that runs a company doing high-end garage floors. Both the dealer and the customer said a home-owner should stay away from the true industrial products as you really need a lot of chemical protection, and careful application techniques. They recommended a water based system, which is what I'll probably go with. It's still expensive, (about $2,000 of material and tool rental for my 750' garage. The pro said he charges about $10 per square foot, though.) and time consuming, so I'm hoping to do it only once. They said you pretty much have to grind the floor to get a good application. So, hopefully in late spring, I'll be grinding, taping, and painting.
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157286 is a reply to message #157284] |
Thu, 19 January 2012 13:14 |
gmcrv1
Messages: 839
Registered: August 2007
Location: Memphis
Karma: -1
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Senior Member |
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Craig,
This is what you want, they list residential so you can give them a try. I
install the car manufactures logos on this stuff. The logos are replaced
about every three years - never have I seen the paint fail.
Good Luck,
Tom Eckert N2VWN
73 Glacier
Oakland, TN
On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 1:07 PM, Craig Lechowicz <
craig.lechowicz@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
> Harry,
> I'm with you. Black & White checkerboards for the garage have been on my
> list for the last two years, but I think this year, I'll really do it.
>
> Does anyone who has had a good experience want to talk brand names on
> epoxy? Maybe I'm too spendy, but for the price, I'm concerned, the
> rustoleum and Home-Depot type stuff just isn't good enough. Considering
> the labor to do checkerboards, I think splurging on materials is probably
> right.
>
> There was a Mustang shop near me that had the checkerboards in epoxy. I
> talked to the owner, and he said it was the 2nd garage he had done that
> way. Being a working shop, it was used pretty hard. The 1st one he did,
> he used U-Coat-It, which he said had hot tire pickup issues. The one I
> saw, he used a Sherwin-Williams product, which he thought was a lot better.
> Unfortunately, I didn't remember the brand name, and they make about a
> 1,000 different ones. I have met with the Sherwin-Williams industrial
> dealer, and one of their customers that day was a guy that runs a company
> doing high-end garage floors. Both the dealer and the customer said a
> home-owner should stay away from the true industrial products as you really
> need a lot of chemical protection, and careful application techniques.
> They recommended a water based system, which is what I'll probably go
> with. It's still expensive, (about $2,000 of material and tool rental for
> my 750' garage. The pro said he charges
> about $10 per square foot, though.) and time consuming, so I'm hoping to
> do it only once. They said you pretty much have to grind the floor to get
> a good application. So, hopefully in late spring, I'll be grinding,
> taping, and painting.
>
> --
> Craig Lechowicz
> '77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
> _______________________________________________
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> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157288 is a reply to message #157284] |
Thu, 19 January 2012 13:23 |
Gary Worobec
Messages: 867
Registered: May 2005
Karma: -1
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Senior Member |
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Craig. As I mentioned earier in this thread I have the HD Rustoleum Epoxy
Shield and I would put it up against U Coat It anytime. The key is the
cleanliness of the surface. The acid washing and flushing is very important.
The HD stuff was $70.00 a kit and I used 4 kits on 500 square feet. If you
are paying $2000.00 for 750 sq. ft. I need to be in that business. Unless
the floor is covered in oil, grease, old paint, etc. you don;t need to grind
anything. The acid washing leaches into the concrete and then a blast with a
pressure washer flushes everthing. We used some fast set grout/cement to
fill any voids or cracks in the concrete. For the sake of the $70.00 you
might want to buy one and give it a try out on a small area before dropping
2 grand.
Thanks
Gary and Joanne Worobec
1973 GMC Glacier
Anza, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Lechowicz" <craig.lechowicz@sbcglobal.net>
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint
>
>
> Harry,
> I'm with you. Black & White checkerboards for the garage have been on my
> list for the last two years, but I think this year, I'll really do it.
>
> Does anyone who has had a good experience want to talk brand names on
> epoxy? Maybe I'm too spendy, but for the price, I'm concerned, the
> rustoleum and Home-Depot type stuff just isn't good enough. Considering
> the labor to do checkerboards, I think splurging on materials is probably
> right.
>
> There was a Mustang shop near me that had the checkerboards in epoxy. I
> talked to the owner, and he said it was the 2nd garage he had done that
> way. Being a working shop, it was used pretty hard. The 1st one he did,
> he used U-Coat-It, which he said had hot tire pickup issues. The one I
> saw, he used a Sherwin-Williams product, which he thought was a lot
> better. Unfortunately, I didn't remember the brand name, and they make
> about a 1,000 different ones. I have met with the Sherwin-Williams
> industrial dealer, and one of their customers that day was a guy that runs
> a company doing high-end garage floors. Both the dealer and the customer
> said a home-owner should stay away from the true industrial products as
> you really need a lot of chemical protection, and careful application
> techniques. They recommended a water based system, which is what I'll
> probably go with. It's still expensive, (about $2,000 of material and
> tool rental for my 750' garage. The pro said he charges
> about $10 per square foot, though.) and time consuming, so I'm hoping to
> do it only once. They said you pretty much have to grind the floor to get
> a good application. So, hopefully in late spring, I'll be grinding,
> taping, and painting.
>
> --
> Craig Lechowicz
> '77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157294 is a reply to message #157260] |
Thu, 19 January 2012 14:32 |
Craig Lechowicz
Messages: 541
Registered: October 2006
Location: Waterford, MI
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Gary,
Well, the Sherwin-Williams and Rustoleum stuff is probably less far away on costs then I thought, actually. If 500' is 4 kits, 750' is probably 7, because do you really want to find out it's 6.1 while standing there with wet epoxy? That would be for the white color. Then, you get to go back and buy 3 or 4 more kits for the black color. So, maybe $770 for Rustoleum epoxy. I planned on doing a clear coat to blend the lines between black and white, and they recommended "sanding" the epoxy for anti-skid protection, so that's a few hundred dollars more. Then, there's rollers, brushes, lots and lots of masking tape, and rental of the grinder and vacuum.
Not sure how long you've had your epoxy down, but I'm kind of hoping it looks good for 20 or 30 years. My garage gets worked pretty hard, as I do a fair amount of work on other people's vehicles as well as my own, although not as much as a commercial one. Unfortunately, it doesn't get used for my GMC which won't fit in it.
Maybe I could skip the grinding part, but, both the Sherwin-Williams dealer that rents their own "special" grinders and my local rental yard said, "you have to grind the concrete." In fact, the local rental yard said, you would be amazed how many people rent them to do the floor the 2nd time they are doing it, because they didn't do it the 1st time. For $300 or so, to avoid the risk of having to spend 2 weeks of grinding, taping and painting over again, (along with another $2,000) it seems like it might be a good idea. I've misplaced the itemized material quote they gave me, but hopefully it will turn up soon, and I'd have a better idea of how much just the epoxy was at Sherwin-Williams.
It seems the two killers on the epoxy are the hot tire pickup, (especially while turning wheels) and brake fluid. I'm hoping hot tire pickup isn't that big a deal, as I live in a cooler climate, and in a low-speed enough of an area where tires shouldn't be all that hot. I try not to spill things, but I've been known to, and the brake fluid thing actually worries me more. I agree preparation is definitely the key, and I think the lack of it, is why I've talked to so many people that have had problems. The worst brand out there (and I don't know what that is) might work fine with good prep, but I'd rather start with the best chance of having it work for as long a time as I could. Maybe Rustoleum is the best stuff out there, but hopefully others will chime in with their good experiences.
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157308 is a reply to message #157260] |
Thu, 19 January 2012 15:20 |
rallymaster
Messages: 662
Registered: February 2004
Location: North Plains, ORYGUN
Karma: -4
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Senior Member |
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Saw one with 7 vintage corvettes parked on it. Beautiful. Oh, yeah,
the floor looked really nice, too.
RonC
On Thu, 19 Jan 2012 12:38:05 -0600 David H. Jarvis <jarvis210@shaw.ca>
writes:
>
>
> I would like to do the garage floor in black and white checker
> pattern. One day...............
> --
> "I've always been crazy, but it kept me from going insane"
> _______________________________________________
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Ron & Linda Clark
1978 Eleganza II
North Plains, ORYGUN
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Ron & Linda Clark
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78 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157312 is a reply to message #157284] |
Thu, 19 January 2012 15:45 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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G'day,
I didn't mention the brand in my original message as I figger'd it wouldn't be available Upover. However, I just checked and the two
part epoxy paint I used was NOT water borne.
I checked my files and found that in December of 2002 I spent $1370 at the Dulux Trade Center for the all the materials (paint,
rollers, brushes, thinners, etc to paint the concrete floor (1400 sq ft) and wooden mezzanine (700 sq ft) floor.
The Brand was Dulux STE. I just checked and it appears that is no longer available; however, I suspect the name was changed to:
DULUX Luxafloor® RollCoat - PC227. The containers look exactly the same as that sounds better than "Durebild STE."
Here's a link to the two products Dulux sells for painting concrete floors, note that the water borne is meant for "medium foot and
wheel traffic."
http://www.dulux.com.au/specifier/product/protective-coatings/concrete-flooring
Here's links to both products:
http://www.dulux.com.au/specifier/product/protective-coatings/concrete-flooring/product-detail?product=6662
http://www.dulux.com.au/specifier/product/protective-coatings/concrete-flooring/product-detail?product=2294
Even though the concrete floor and mezzanine were both brand new I followed the application instructions to the letter and ground
the concrete surface first then high pressure water washed it. I had to do it in sections and I found that despite mixing the two
parts exactly as instructed I got minor color variations.
The only damage that has occurred was when dumb ass here decided use a cutting torch to cut some springs out of a Jag front end I
was throwing away so it wouldn't be dangerous and hot sparks and beads burned little spots in the paint.
I just did a search for "USA Dulux" and it turns out that Glidden is associated with Dulux, however, Glidden does not appear to sell
a two part epoxy paint.
You could use the MSDS supplied with DULUX Luxafloor® RollCoat and compare it to products available in the USA.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Craig Lechowicz
Sent: Friday, 20 January 2012 6:08 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint
Harry,
I'm with you. Black & White checkerboards for the garage have been on my list for the last two years, but I think this year, I'll
really do it.
Does anyone who has had a good experience want to talk brand names on epoxy? Maybe I'm too spendy, but for the price, I'm
concerned, the rustoleum and Home-Depot type stuff just isn't good enough. Considering the labor to do checkerboards, I think
splurging on materials is probably right.
There was a Mustang shop near me that had the checkerboards in epoxy. I talked to the owner, and he said it was the 2nd garage he
had done that way. Being a working shop, it was used pretty hard. The 1st one he did, he used U-Coat-It, which he said had hot
tire pickup issues. The one I saw, he used a Sherwin-Williams product, which he thought was a lot better. Unfortunately, I didn't
remember the brand name, and they make about a 1,000 different ones. I have met with the Sherwin-Williams industrial dealer, and
one of their customers that day was a guy that runs a company doing high-end garage floors. Both the dealer and the customer said a
home-owner should stay away from the true industrial products as you really need a lot of chemical protection, and careful
application techniques. They recommended a water based system, which is what I'll probably go with. It's still expensive, (about
$2,000 of material and tool rental for my 750' garage. The pro said he charges
about $10 per square foot, though.) and time consuming, so I'm hoping to do it only once. They said you pretty much have to grind
the floor to get a good application. So, hopefully in late spring, I'll be grinding, taping, and painting.
--
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157369 is a reply to message #157260] |
Thu, 19 January 2012 23:19 |
Craig Lechowicz
Messages: 541
Registered: October 2006
Location: Waterford, MI
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Rob,
Thanks for the links. One thing I liked about them is they only make 2 different ones. Sherwin-Williams has so many that I wasn't smart enough to tell them apart. Too bad Dulux don't sell here in the states. I printed MSDS for some of the Sherwin Williams products, but I have to find them again and compare. As I recall, the ones most like the 2 you showed they tried to talk me out of, although I thought they were better. I think part of it was because of the pot time of the high solids epoxy, although doing it in sections would probably solve that. Part of me wonders if having more lawyers and possibly tighter epa standards here had something to do with them discouraging me from using their version's of it as well. I think they were trying to talk me into something that was more of a polyurethane than an epoxy, and again, not sure what the differences are. With it being a whopping 5° F here tonight, I have some time to re-study it before it gets warm enough to get to it though.
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157373 is a reply to message #157369] |
Thu, 19 January 2012 23:37 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Let me put a little different problem out for consideration: Despite my
best efforts, the lower level of my RV shelter's floor, under the service
rack, has been repeatedly soaked, over the past 6 years, with used motor
oil, hydraulic fluid, ATF, brake fluid, and 'most anything else the GMC can
haul. I've always cleaned it up thoroughly with caustic cleaners, such as
"Purple Power", and water doesn't bead up on the large stained area. If
there are ever any tires on that floor, I won't be worried about their
effects, 'cause I'll probably be splattered all over the floor beneath the
GMC and the rack it collapsed or fell off of.
So, what should I use to hide those stains and make the future ones easy to
clean up? Do I need to use a 2-part epoxy, or will something easier
suffice?
Ken H.
On Fri, Jan 20, 2012 at 12:19 AM, Craig Lechowicz wrote:
>
>
> Rob,
> Thanks for the links. One thing I liked about them is they only make 2
> different ones. Sherwin-Williams has so many that I wasn't smart enough to
> tell them apart. Too bad Dulux don't sell here in the states. I printed
> MSDS for some of the Sherwin Williams products, but I have to find them
> again and compare. As I recall, the ones most like the 2 you showed they
> tried to talk me out of, although I thought they were better. I think part
> of it was because of the pot time of the high solids epoxy, although doing
> it in sections would probably solve that. Part of me wonders if having
> more lawyers and possibly tighter epa standards here had something to do
> with them discouraging me from using their version's of it as well. I
> think they were trying to talk me into something that was more of a
> polyurethane than an epoxy, and again, not sure what the differences are.
> With it being a whopping 5° F here tonight, I have some time to re-study
> it before it gets warm enough to get to it though.
> --
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157378 is a reply to message #157374] |
Fri, 20 January 2012 01:34 |
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ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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That's a nice looking website. My experience, maybe 15 years ago, was in industrial flooring. What you refer to as the cream, the top-most surface, simply is not very strong in tension. We don't notice it as we're most concerned about concrete's compressive strength, which is substantial. Coatings shrink when they cure and place the surface in tension. Sandblast, bead blast, grind, acid etch, or hydro blast that surface off and you'll have a very solid surface for bonding a coating. I always thought that acid etching was smelly, messy, and difficult to perform on older floors that may have been oil soaked. For most of our industrial floors we would spec bead blasting.
As I was leaving the industry there was a lot of talk of deep penetrating primers, but I don't believe they were nearly as effective as proper surface prep. Grinding can make the substrate rather slick. Sprinkling some aluminum oxide or fine sand into the coating can provide a non slip surface. We would sometimes encounter a well meaning concrete contractor who would leave a broom-finish on a new floor thinking it would give the coating a "tooth" to bond to the floor. This finish is almost all latent concrete, and very weak. It was also extra work to remove!
Epoxy a bolt head to an unfinished floor, and another to a bit of the floor that you've sanded down with a grinder. Let the epoxy fully cure and then knock both of the bolts off of the floor. The unfinished bolt will probably have a very small dusting of concrete on the bolt, whereas the prepped surface may actually pull a chunk of concrete with the bolt. It's simply a measure of the tensile strength of the surface you glued the bolt to.
For a residential garage floor you could probably get away with old latex house paint for a while. Wow. I haven't walked in those shoes for a very long time. Now I'm in IT at a law firm. Much cleaner work!
Larry Davick
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 19, 2012, at 9:47 PM, Dan Borlase <bord@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
>
> ...OK so call me a little bias, but you see, I have a co., the website of which is totalgarageinteriors.ca.
> It all depends on what you want and how serious you are about your garage. My experiance with ANY floor is that if you want whatever you "paint" on to last, you must grind the floor. The "cream" that rises to the serface when the concreat was poured, will not allow product to bond well because the concrete serface is funtionaly a week powder. Grinding removes much of that powder and creates an open serface to which product is able to bond. The further north you go the more extremes in temperature variance there will be. Apoxy's dont do well in these conditions. The best product I have come across is Urea Polyaspartic floor coatings. Not a DIY., nor is it cheep, but it will be the last floor you will ever have layed in your garage. Call your local garage up-fitter and do it right....you would'nt put house paint on you GMC...would you??
>
> Dan
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Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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| Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157379 is a reply to message #157373] |
Fri, 20 January 2012 01:50 |
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ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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Ken,
If you choose to acid wash the floor you may notice that the oil stained areas don't react to the acid. This is an instance where mechanical abrasion is preferred - grinding or sand, bead, or hydro blasting prior to a strong detergent wash and a thorough rinse. I would then use an epoxy primer.
There are oil tolerant primers available for industrial coatings, though they may be rather expensive. I prefer two-part (catalyzed) epoxies to the moisture cured ones, and then an epoxy topcoat. I like white floors in shops, so I would choose white!
With all epoxies it's important to wear rubber gloves, etc, as you will build up am allergic reaction to epoxies over time. Good ventilation is a must as well.
Larry Davick
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 19, 2012, at 9:37 PM, Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Let me put a little different problem out for consideration: Despite my
> best efforts, the lower level of my RV shelter's floor, under the service
> rack, has been repeatedly soaked, over the past 6 years, with used motor
> oil, hydraulic fluid, ATF, brake fluid, and 'most anything else the GMC can
> haul. I've always cleaned it up thoroughly with caustic cleaners, such as
> "Purple Power", and water doesn't bead up on the large stained area. If
> there are ever any tires on that floor, I won't be worried about their
> effects, 'cause I'll probably be splattered all over the floor beneath the
> GMC and the rack it collapsed or fell off of.
>
> So, what should I use to hide those stains and make the future ones easy to
> clean up? Do I need to use a 2-part epoxy, or will something easier
> suffice?
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Fri, Jan 20, 2012 at 12:19 AM, Craig Lechowicz wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Rob,
>> Thanks for the links. One thing I liked about them is they only make 2
>> different ones. Sherwin-Williams has so many that I wasn't smart enough to
>> tell them apart. Too bad Dulux don't sell here in the states. I printed
>> MSDS for some of the Sherwin Williams products, but I have to find them
>> again and compare. As I recall, the ones most like the 2 you showed they
>> tried to talk me out of, although I thought they were better. I think part
>> of it was because of the pot time of the high solids epoxy, although doing
>> it in sections would probably solve that. Part of me wonders if having
>> more lawyers and possibly tighter epa standards here had something to do
>> with them discouraging me from using their version's of it as well. I
>> think they were trying to talk me into something that was more of a
>> polyurethane than an epoxy, and again, not sure what the differences are.
>> With it being a whopping 5° F here tonight, I have some time to re-study
>> it before it gets warm enough to get to it though.
>> --
>>
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Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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| Re: [GMCnet] Garage Floor Paint [message #157381 is a reply to message #157374] |
Fri, 20 January 2012 05:48 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Dan,
You've made my day! It took HOURS to grind the floor in my shed! Now I KNOW it wasn't a waste of time!
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Borlase
...OK so call me a little bias, but you see, I have a co., the website of which is totalgarageinteriors.ca.
It all depends on what you want and how serious you are about your garage. My experiance with ANY floor is that if you want
whatever you "paint" on to last, you must grind the floor. The "cream" that rises to the serface when the concreat was poured, will
not allow product to bond well because the concrete serface is funtionaly a week powder. Grinding removes much of that powder and
creates an open serface to which product is able to bond. The further north you go the more extremes in temperature variance there
will be. Apoxy's dont do well in these conditions. The best product I have come across is Urea Polyaspartic floor coatings. Not a
DIY., nor is it cheep, but it will be the last floor you will ever have layed in your garage. Call your local garage up-fitter and
do it right....you would'nt put house paint on you GMC...would you??
Dan
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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