Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Interior Floor / Insulation
| Interior Floor / Insulation [message #155974] |
Sun, 08 January 2012 17:30  |
davidlive
Messages: 143
Registered: November 2011
Location: Simi valley, Southern Cal...
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currently my 1974 just has a sheet of 1" plywood and exposed to the elements from the road, i was thinking of using like 1/8 sheet of aluminium and like 3/4 plywood, i would like to add some kind of insulation between it.
I was wondering what some others have done or head/seen others do while rebuilding their coaches to the floor ?
78 Royal #749
74 #136
Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and torque is how far you take the wall with you when you hit it.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Interior Floor / Insulation [message #155982 is a reply to message #155978] |
Sun, 08 January 2012 17:59  |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
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Rob,
I have read that the plywood in the "newer floors" is 3/4 inch.
Dennis
| Robert Mueller wrote on Sun, 08 January 2012 17:45 |
David,
GMC changed the floor (not sure what year) and they created a sandwich that is:
GMC interior
Plywood (1")
Dense Closed Cell Styrofoam (3/4")
Aluminum Sheet (don't know thickness)
Road
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Morrison
currently my 1974 just has a sheet of 1" plywood and exposed to the elements from the road, i was thinking of using like 1/8 sheet
of aluminium and like 3/4 plywood, i would like to add some kind of insulation between it.
I was wondering what some others have done or head/seen others do while rebuilding their coaches to the floor ?
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
[Updated on: Sun, 08 January 2012 17:59] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Interior Floor / Insulation [message #155983 is a reply to message #155974] |
Sun, 08 January 2012 18:06 |
davidlive
Messages: 143
Registered: November 2011
Location: Simi valley, Southern Cal...
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I heard it was changed in 75 and newer, not sure what was changed though and when i redo mine i want to insulate and protect it from the elements, anyone have more details on the change in the design of floor and if it's possible to make that change to the earlier ones ?
78 Royal #749
74 #136
Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car, understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and torque is how far you take the wall with you when you hit it.
[Updated on: Sun, 08 January 2012 18:14] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Interior Floor / Insulation [message #155986 is a reply to message #155982] |
Sun, 08 January 2012 18:15 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Also, here is a nice article on floor replacement that may be helpful when you tackle the project... whatever the floor thickness may be, since I have just reread and old post where the owner said the rear floor in his 77 was 1 inch plywood..
http://www.henry-davis.com/GMC/RearFloor.htm
Dennis
| Dennis S wrote on Sun, 08 January 2012 17:59 |
Rob,
I have read that the plywood in the "newer floors" is 3/4 inch.
Dennis
| Robert Mueller wrote on Sun, 08 January 2012 17:45 |
David,
GMC changed the floor (not sure what year) and they created a sandwich that is:
GMC interior
Plywood (1")
Dense Closed Cell Styrofoam (3/4")
Aluminum Sheet (don't know thickness)
Road
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Morrison
currently my 1974 just has a sheet of 1" plywood and exposed to the elements from the road, i was thinking of using like 1/8 sheet
of aluminium and like 3/4 plywood, i would like to add some kind of insulation between it.
I was wondering what some others have done or head/seen others do while rebuilding their coaches to the floor ?
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: Interior Floor / Insulation [message #156014 is a reply to message #155974] |
Sun, 08 January 2012 20:25 |
RadioActiveGMC
Messages: 1020
Registered: November 2010
Location: Hot AZ desert
Karma: 0
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I just installed new carpet 2 weeks ago and used a high end outdoor carpet with a really think rubber pad under the carpet that acts as a barrier for sound, heat and cold. It wasn't designed to be a indoor carpet. But I chopped it all up and screwed it down. Looks perfect? Nope but pretty darn nice and worked wonders for look noise and keep the chill off the floor.
***"Gettin There"-1973 23' Sequoia-
Michael, Onans smell, "Go solar/wind power!"
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| new flooring, water proofing and heat barrier [message #156018 is a reply to message #155974] |
Sun, 08 January 2012 21:23 |
bukzin
Messages: 840
Registered: April 2004
Location: North California
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| davidlive wrote on Sun, 08 January 2012 15:30 |
currently my 1974 just has a sheet of 1" plywood and exposed to the elements from the road, i was thinking of using like 1/8 sheet of aluminium and like 3/4 plywood, i would like to add some kind of insulation between it.
I was wondering what some others have done or head/seen others do while rebuilding their coaches to the floor ?
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++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
A side note on flooring.
We pulled the green carpet out of our '77 Palm Beach
to replace with a off-brand Pergo.
To protect the plywood below (it was OK so we left it down)
we covered it with a water-proofing product.
Its called 'Red Guard' found it in the flooring dept
in Home Depot.
It has the thickness of honey and is used below shower pans
and other water problem areas. Seems like it was
$40 per gallon or so.
We also tried to reduce the heat
coming up from below by laying down a radiant barrier
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radiant_barrier)
Bought that in the roofing dept also at Home Depot.
One of the things I would do differently would be to
level the surface of the plywood before laying the Pergo.
If you do that talk with a flooring guy and buy a product
which remains flexible. Like they use under vinyl
sheet goods in bathrooms over wood floors.
Good luck!
Bukzin
1977 Palm Beach
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| Re: Interior Floor / Insulation [message #156409 is a reply to message #155974] |
Wed, 11 January 2012 21:03 |
Larry C
Messages: 1168
Registered: July 2004
Location: NE Illinois by the Illino...
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My PO had raised the floor and "said" he put some type of insulation between the new floor surface and the old floor. Recent work I did on the floor may dispute that claim.
I have two concerns about this.
1.....If I have a water leak, that floor/insulation will get soaked, and there is no way to dry it out, and it may rot the floor.
2.....I did an experiment last Winter and went out when it was cold out, I turned on the furnace and even though the cabin became comfortable, that floor was emulating an ice cube. It never warmed up.
I thing the only way to warm the floor would be to sandwhich the floor with an air space between the orig floor and the new floor and set the air space up so the furnace can run hot air through it when it runs. It can be done.
Besides the possible floor rotting fear, I also don't like the raised floor at the doorway.
Just my thoughts.
Gatsbys' CRUISER  08-18-04
74 GLACIER X, 260/455-APC-4 Bagg'r
Remflex Manifold gaskets
CampGrounds needed, Add yours to "PLACES" />
http://www.gmceast.com/travel
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| Re: Interior Floor / Insulation [message #156414 is a reply to message #156409] |
Wed, 11 January 2012 21:19 |
glacierfl
Messages: 444
Registered: June 2011
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Hello,
I took the raised floor out. As mentioned it does give you a bit more space for storage. If you look at the rest of the back area, it does not seem to be very well insulaeed at all.....
Behind the ABS plastic parts, the insulation is not so good, many places where there is none at all !!!! Thats being redone also, hoping that all that will, make a real difference to the temp in the back section.
The area around the water tank was not insulated. Thats an ice cube in a box !!!!. When i rebuild the back part, i am going to put down a sheet of silvered insulation foam type, and then add another sheet of ply on top of that. Add some carpet and that should work better i think.
cheers and beers
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
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| Re: [GMCnet] Interior Floor / Insulation [message #156416 is a reply to message #156409] |
Wed, 11 January 2012 21:20 |
Greg and April
Messages: 263
Registered: December 2011
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For what it's worth, Kilz will do a good job sealing the wood - the
insulation it's self may rot, but short of a deluge, it will do a decent job
of dealing with minor leaks.
Just before the carpet was laid down and my family moved in, I applied Kilz
oil based to the entire floor of the house we bought, including the
bathroom, and it's done a great job, even when the wife or kids just step
out of the bath without toweling off.
Greg H.
I don't just march to the beat of my own drum - I have an entire brass band
to keep me company.
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry C" <slawrence111@yahoo.com>
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 20:03
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Interior Floor / Insulation
>
>
> My PO had raised the floor and "said" he put some type of insulation
> between the new floor surface and the old floor. Recent work I did on the
> floor may dispute that claim.
>
> I have two concerns about this.
>
> 1.....If I have a water leak, that floor/insulation will get soaked, and
> there is no way to dry it out, and it may rot the floor.
>
> 2.....I did an experiment last Winter and went out when it was cold out, I
> turned on the furnace and even though the cabin became comfortable, that
> floor was emulating an ice cube. It never warmed up.
> I thing the only way to warm the floor would be to sandwhich the floor
> with an air space between the orig floor and the new floor and set the air
> space up so the furnace can run hot air through it when it runs. It can
> be done.
>
> Besides the possible floor rotting fear, I also don't like the raised
> floor at the doorway.
>
> Just my thoughts.
> --
> Gatsbys' CRUISER :d 08-18-04
> 74 GLACIER X, 260/455-APC-4 Bagg'r
> Remflex Manifold gaskets
>
> CampGrounds needed, Add yours to "PLACES" />
> http://www.gmceast.com/travel
>
> _
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] Interior Floor / Insulation [message #156424 is a reply to message #156416] |
Wed, 11 January 2012 22:02 |
glacierfl
Messages: 444
Registered: June 2011
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Just a thought.....
Given the leaks that seem to originate, from the water tank and associated connections. Why not find a way to use a drip tray,
like home AC's use. Then any leaks would simply, drain out via a pipe to outside ???. Use of a water leak detector, could alert you as to a problem, but with no water damage as a result.....
Has to be possible to make one, with the water tank, pump etc all confined to its boundries...
cheers and beers
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
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| Re: [GMCnet] Interior Floor / Insulation [message #156437 is a reply to message #156424] |
Thu, 12 January 2012 00:55 |
Larry C
Messages: 1168
Registered: July 2004
Location: NE Illinois by the Illino...
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I don't want to sound testy,
But the GMC can generate a leak anywhere, including broken water lines, window leaks, anywhere there is a seal. How would you make a drip pan to catch that?
And a leak is not usually found as soon as it begins to leak, it is usually weeks or even years before you realize you have a problem. A lot of water can build up and start rot under the false floor by that time.
If the PO had not put the false floor in, I would not have put it in. Perhaps insulation of some type can be installed from under the floor, beneath the coach between the frame beams. That was how my SOB was insulated under the floor.
I just don't see insulating above the OEM floor then putting in a false floor being a good idea when leaks can and will happen.
My thought
Gatsbys' CRUISER 08-18-04
74 GLACIER X, 260/455-APC-4 Bagg'r
Remflex Manifold gaskets
CampGrounds needed, Add yours to "PLACES" />
http://www.gmceast.com/travel
_
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| Re: [GMCnet] Interior Floor / Insulation [message #156459 is a reply to message #156424] |
Thu, 12 January 2012 10:56 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Jim Bounds has been known to say, when asked how to leak proof a GMC, that
the secret was to provide larger drain holes in the floor than the leak
holes in the roof. It is kind of like hard drives. There are only two
kinds. Ones that have already crashed, and those which haven't crashed YET.
GMCs either are currently in a state of leaking, or on their way. It is the
nature of things that go through expansion and contraction cycles due to
heat and cooling, add the fact that they travel over uneven surfaces into
the face of 70 mph wind forces and the task of sealing one up is indeed a
daunting if not impossible one. Use NON HARDENING sealing agents that DO
NOT contain silicone. Do not use hardening adhesives for they will crack
and leak. Urethane windshield sealants like are used to install windshields
are most effective, as are self leveling sealants that are paintable. I
personally prefer 3M Heavy body drip check sealant. It remains pliant over
a wide temperature range and When/not if the need arises, can easily be
removed to reseal the seams, unlike silicone based products. It works for
me.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
On Wed, Jan 11, 2012 at 8:02 PM, steve & debbie <zzdebz@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Just a thought.....
>
> Given the leaks that seem to originate, from the water tank and associated
> connections. Why not find a way to use a drip tray,
> like home AC's use. Then any leaks would simply, drain out via a pipe to
> outside ???. Use of a water leak detector, could alert you as to a problem,
> but with no water damage as a result.....
>
> Has to be possible to make one, with the water tank, pump etc all confined
> to its boundries...
>
> cheers and beers
> --
> Steve & Debbie
> Monticello, FL
> 77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
> EX G4WDT
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Interior Floor / Insulation [message #156463 is a reply to message #156459] |
Thu, 12 January 2012 11:53 |
glacierfl
Messages: 444
Registered: June 2011
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Hello,
The reason i mentioned the idea about the drip tray was, lots of folks seem to get problems, with the water tank, pump keaks, sender leaking etc. I have 2 coaches, both of them had floor problems mostly due to those problems. It was just an idea to try and cut down on leaks in that area. Points taken on general leaks...
cheers and beers
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
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| Re: [GMCnet] Interior Floor / Insulation [message #156465 is a reply to message #156459] |
Thu, 12 January 2012 12:02 |
Kingsley Coach
Messages: 2691
Registered: March 2009
Location: Nova Scotia Canada
Karma: -34
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Senior Member |
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To deal with leaks that you know are there but you just don't see or can't
find, I like to load a dehumidifier aboard when in my yard and dry the
thing out for a few days...that would include the floor and inside the
walls...
It's my drip pan.
Then I empty it....<g>
Mike in NS
On Thu, Jan 12, 2012 at 12:56 PM, James Hupy <jamesh1296@gmail.com> wrote:
> Jim Bounds has been known to say, when asked how to leak proof a GMC, that
> the secret was to provide larger drain holes in the floor than the leak
> holes in the roof. It is kind of like hard drives. There are only two
> kinds. Ones that have already crashed, and those which haven't crashed YET.
> GMCs either are currently in a state of leaking, or on their way. It is the
> nature of things that go through expansion and contraction cycles due to
> heat and cooling, add the fact that they travel over uneven surfaces into
> the face of 70 mph wind forces and the task of sealing one up is indeed a
> daunting if not impossible one. Use NON HARDENING sealing agents that DO
> NOT contain silicone. Do not use hardening adhesives for they will crack
> and leak. Urethane windshield sealants like are used to install windshields
> are most effective, as are self leveling sealants that are paintable. I
> personally prefer 3M Heavy body drip check sealant. It remains pliant over
> a wide temperature range and When/not if the need arises, can easily be
> removed to reseal the seams, unlike silicone based products. It works for
> me.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, OR
> 78 GMC Royale 403
>
> On Wed, Jan 11, 2012 at 8:02 PM, steve & debbie <zzdebz@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Just a thought.....
> >
> > Given the leaks that seem to originate, from the water tank and
> associated
> > connections. Why not find a way to use a drip tray,
> > like home AC's use. Then any leaks would simply, drain out via a pipe to
> > outside ???. Use of a water leak detector, could alert you as to a
> problem,
> > but with no water damage as a result.....
> >
> > Has to be possible to make one, with the water tank, pump etc all
> confined
> > to its boundries...
> >
> > cheers and beers
> > --
> > Steve & Debbie
> > Monticello, FL
> > 77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
> > EX G4WDT
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS
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| Re: [GMCnet] Interior Floor / Insulation [message #156467 is a reply to message #156424] |
Thu, 12 January 2012 12:30 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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| glacierfl wrote on Wed, 11 January 2012 21:02 |
Just a thought.....
Given the leaks that seem to originate, from the water tank and associated connections. Why not find a way to use a drip tray,
like home AC's use. Then any leaks would simply, drain out via a pipe to outside ???. Use of a water leak detector, could alert you as to a problem, but with no water damage as a result.....
Has to be possible to make one, with the water tank, pump etc all confined to its boundries...
cheers and beers
|
Chris C did something like that on his custom water tank installation. He fabricated a "drain box" and mounted the pump and connections in that area to catch any leaks:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31308
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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