| Closed cell shades and valences -- recommendations [message #155868] |
Sat, 07 January 2012 21:25  |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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We are trying to plan new window coverings for our 73, 23 ft, Painted Desert.
Of the shades we have seen the Levelor type shades -- Lowes samples -- are our preference.
Any recommendations on shades -- brands, sources, models? The shades need to be about 35 inches tall -- are you special ordering them -- Lowes does not cut-to-length.
The samples we have seen all have about a two inch thick mounting top. Is this what others are using? How do you accomodate since the cabinets do not sit that far from the wall at the top?
Valences -- Ken H makes strong points on the value of full enclosed (to prevent heat/cold intrusion at the bottom) and we like that look. But there is not enough room on the kitchen window for a bottom -- due to the raised back of the countertop. What have you done there?
Any pluses for valences with curved fronts versus flat fronts?
Any special valence technique for the rear window -- the plastic wall convering around the window has deteriorated and is cracking off so get to build a new window surround as well.
Thanks for all help and links to project photos.
Dennis
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: Closed cell shades and valences -- recommendations [message #155870 is a reply to message #155868] |
Sat, 07 January 2012 21:39  |
GeorgeRud
Messages: 1380
Registered: February 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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You might want to contact Jim Bounds at the Coop Motorworks. He found some very nice mini-blinds for my coach, and also has the information on making the valances.
I don't know if he sells a kit, but he does know what size blinds you need to fit the window openings and may be able to help you.
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Closed cell shades and valences -- recommendations [message #155933 is a reply to message #155914] |
Sun, 08 January 2012 12:54 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Armand,
Thsnks for the Guske idea and the photo album id. You do nice work!
Bob and Emery,
I appreciate the information on how to build out the overhead cabinets.
And Emery -- good point on buying washable shades!
Thanks again,
Dennis
| emerystora wrote on Sun, 08 January 2012 10:48 |
On Jan 8, 2012, at 9:28 AM, Bob de Kruyff <NEXT2POOL@AOL.COM> wrote:
>
>
> ""The samples we have seen all have about a two inch thick mounting
> top. Is this what others are using? How do you accomodate since the
> cabinets do not sit that far from the wall at the top?
>
> ""
>
> I had to shim out my cabinets about 2" in order to get the headers
> to fit:
>
I installed Hunter Douglas Duette shades back in 1998. I put a 3/4"
piece of wood on the back cabinet wooden cleat and a 3/4" piece of
wood behind the the front of the cabinet. For the top I drilled holes
through the new piece of wood 3/4" back from the existing holes. This
allowed use of the existing bolts. I drilled through the existing
holes on the back and used longer bolts.
To attach the shades I mounted them to a board and attached the board
behind the cabinet with screws through the inside back of the cabinet.
That made it very easy to remove the shades for cleaning.
By the way, Hunter Douglas have a lifetime warranty and can be washed
in a bathub or shower. Levelors and Grabers cannot be washed this way
as the fabric won't take it. My former window and door business once
sold all three brands but I feel Hunter Douglas is the best.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe. NM
(soon to be Colorado)
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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