Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » LICENSE PLATE LAMP
LICENSE PLATE LAMP [message #155629] |
Thu, 05 January 2012 21:21  |
Michael Bozardt
 Messages: 367 Registered: January 2007 Location: College Station, Texas
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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GMC M/H license plate lights are getting scarce. The metal body tends to rust away making the light unusable. Cinnabar sells a not so original replacement I am told. Bob stone has made one from fiberglass but is not marketing it-yet.
I had some work done on the rear and the workers did not reattach the light. There is a ground wire that attaches to the metal body. I use a nut to hold it in place on an attaching screw. There is also a plug that is inside the coach behind the rear panel which must be lifted up to access it. If your light is not working and you have checked the fuse panel and the bulb, you may be missing the ground or the plug in.
MISC. RAMBLINGS:
I had a CV boot replaced here in Houston less than a year ago. It is now cracked with grease going everywhere. I would not have found it now except I removed the front wheels to trace an air system leak of which there are several. The message is to buy the expensive boots and go for the reliability. The driver's side axle is removable without taking off the hub etc. Do not know about the left axle.
Had a water line separate behind the "buzz box" area-very difficult to reach unless one has long arms. I have drafted an article about repairing it and other copper plumbing issues. Some have expressed surprise that I have copper and not plastic water lines, but all three of the 74 GMCs I had had copper. I plan to put this article in the GMC Sandbox sometime soon.
A pinched plastic line near the left control valve inside the coach results in slow air bag inflation. The line is pinched due to the angle where it attaches to the valve. I hope to turn this fitting, cut the line, reattach it so that the line will not get kinked again.
Well, the tires are now 7 years old without the slightest crack or other indication of break down. Bridgestone 265 models with about 20,000 miles. However, all advice says replace after 5 or 6 years. They have been either covered or inside the shop about 90% of the time. Man, I hate to give these up.
I hope to have some new products for us in 2012. My knee replacement and rehab consumed most of 2011, along with an emergency appendectomy but I can ride my bike at last and am up to 30 minutes. That may not sound like much, but when one cannot bend the knee enough to ride a bike that is not good. It is still tough to get down on the knees to work on the GMC but I will manage.
.......Best wishes for this new year, Michael at GEMRECS
[Updated on: Thu, 05 January 2012 21:25] Report message to a moderator
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Re: [GMCnet] LICENSE PLATE LAMP [message #155632 is a reply to message #155629] |
Thu, 05 January 2012 21:33   |
peter bailey
 Messages: 367 Registered: March 2009 Location: Gawler, South Australia
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Michael,
I had a rubber boot for the steering shaft supplied by an USA east coast GMC
specialist which split whilst installing, I managed to source a suitable
boot from a subaru locally that worked fine. The one supplied by the GMC
specialist I feel was poor quality rubber.
Peter Bailey
from Ozy (Aussie)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Bozardt" <ilse@earth-comm.com>
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 1:51 PM
Subject: [GMCnet] LICENSE PLATE LAMP
>
>
> GMC M/H license plate lights are getting scarce. The metal body tends to
> rust away making the light unusable. Cinnabar sells a not so original
> replacement I am told. Bob stone has made one from fiberglass but is not
> marketing it-yet.
>
> I had some work done on the rear and the workers did not reattach the
> light. There is a ground wire that attaches to the metal body. I use a
> nut to hold it in place on an attaching screw. There is also a plug that
> is inside the coach behind the rear panel which must be lifted up to
> access it. If your light is not working and you have checked the fuse
> panel and the bulb, you may be missing the ground or the plug i
>
> MISC. RAMBLINGS:
> I had a CV boot replaced here in Houston less than a year ago. It is now
> cracked with grease going everywhere. I would not have found it now
> except I removed the front wheels to trace an air system leak of which
> there are several. The message is to buy the expensive boots and go for
> the reliability. The driver's side axle is removable without taking off
> the hub etc. Do not know about the left axle.
>
> Had a water line separate behind the "buzz box" area-very difficult to
> reach unless one has long arms. I have drafted an article about repairing
> it and other copper plumbing issues. Some have expressed surprise that I
> have copper and not plastic water lines, but all three of the 74 BMCs I
> had had copper. I plan to put this article in the GMC Sandbox sometime
> soon.
>
> A pinched plastic line near the left control valve inside the coach
> results in slow air bag inflation. The line is pinched due to the angle
> where it attaches to the valve. I hope to turn this fitting, cut the line,
> reattach it so that the line will not get kinked again.
>
> Well, the tires are now 7 years old without the slightest crack or other
> indication of break down. Bridgestone 265 models with about 20,000 miles.
> However, all advice says replace after 5 or 6 years. They have been either
> covered or inside the shop about 90% of the time. Man, I hate to give
> these up.
>
> I hope to have some new products for us in 2012. My knee replacement and
> rehab consumed most of 2011, along with an emergency appendectomy but I
> can ride my bike at last and am up to 30 minutes. That may not sound like
> much, but when one cannot bend the knee enough to ride a bike that is not
> good. It is still tough to get down on the knees to work on the GMC but I
> will manage.
>
> I am looking for a carbon fiber product manufacturer if you know of
> one.......Best wishes for this new year, Michael at GEMRECS
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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>
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Re: LICENSE PLATE LAMP [message #155639 is a reply to message #155629] |
Thu, 05 January 2012 22:09   |
glacierfl
 Messages: 444 Registered: June 2011
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |

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Hello,
While on the license plate topic , thought it might be good to share this.
My license plate fitting leaked. The reason was when they used the spray on insulation, some of it had managed to get under the area where the rubber seal fitted into the light should seal and prevent water getting in, thus preventing a good water tight seal.
Seems like they just screwed the fitting on and did not remove the thick foam, stopping a good seal....
If i had not discovered this, eventually it would have rusted away. This resulted in a rusted screw and some water damage!!!!!.
The OEM spray on foam can hide a multitude of sins !!!!.
As these are no longer available i would recommend :-
If you get the chance look over that area for problems/leaks and if needed remove fitting, clean off old foam, reseal etc. I found that after removing the old foam that was on rubber seal,that the rubber was in fantastic shape, after all those years !!!
cheers and beers
Steve & Debbie
Monticello, FL
77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
EX G4WDT
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Re: [GMCnet] LICENSE PLATE LAMP [message #155651 is a reply to message #155639] |
Thu, 05 January 2012 23:14  |
jimk
 Messages: 6734 Registered: July 2006 Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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We have the license plate assembly that Bob Stone is making.
Due to limited mount manufactured, they are selling for $49.95 each
with the buld socket.
On Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 8:09 PM, steve & debbie <zzdebz@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> While on the license plate topic , thought it might be good to share this.
>
> My license plate fitting leaked. The reason was when they used the spray on insulation, some of it had managed to get under the area where the rubber seal fitted into the light should seal and prevent water getting in, thus preventing a good water tight seal.
>
> Seems like they just screwed the fitting on and did not remove the thick foam, stopping a good seal....
>
> If i had not discovered this, eventually it would have rusted away. This resulted in a rusted screw and some water damage!!!!!.
>
> The OEM spray on foam can hide a multitude of sins !!!!.
>
> As these are no longer available i would recommend :-
>
> If you get the chance look over that area for problems/leaks and if needed remove fitting, clean off old foam, reseal etc. I found that after removing the old foam that was on rubber seal,that the rubber was in fantastic shape, after all those years !!!
>
> cheers and beers
>
>
>
>
> --
> Steve & Debbie
> Monticello, FL
> 77 Palm Beach :- Aurora
> EX G4WDT
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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