charcoal cannister [message #152637] |
Mon, 12 December 2011 09:53 |
skip2
Messages: 544 Registered: September 2011 Location: Winter Haven,FL (center o...
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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After overfilling my tank and parking nose down I noticed while figuring out my leak that the port to the carb on my charcoal cannister was not hooked to anything. Best I can tell it should be hooked to the same port as the PCV valve. The stock qjet and manifold have manifold have been changed out to and edelbrock qjet and high rise manifold there is a 4" riser on my motor cover. Yes I already orderd a new fuel vapor seperator fron Sirum. Thanks in advanced
Skip
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD LSD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
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Re: charcoal cannister [message #152644 is a reply to message #152637] |
Mon, 12 December 2011 10:59 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260 Registered: January 2004 Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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skip2 wrote on Mon, 12 December 2011 08:53 | After overfilling my tank and parking nose down I noticed while figuring out my leak that the port to the carb on my charcoal cannister was not hooked to anything. Best I can tell it should be hooked to the same port as the PCV valve. The stock qjet and manifold have manifold have been changed out to and edelbrock qjet and high rise manifold there is a 4" riser on my motor cover. Yes I already orderd a new fuel vapor seperator fron Sirum. Thanks in advanced
Skip
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Skip--the stock GMC uses a constant cannister purge port which is on the front of the carb below the fuel inlet. It has a restriction in it so the amount of air flow is limited. If you hook it up to full vacuum at the manifold or elsewhere, it should have a restrictor in it otherwise you will flow too much air at idle disrupting your idle mixture and idle vacuum.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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Re: charcoal cannister [message #152654 is a reply to message #152637] |
Mon, 12 December 2011 12:20 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447 Registered: October 2006 Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Just yesterday I fixed (YEAH) a long time vac leak on my Jeep XJ. I am saying this to restate that nothing beats hands on diagnostic inspection. I know I had varing vac to the HVAC and on throtle the Heat would shift up to the DEF vent ( no vac defaults to DEF) I had previously checked the lines in all the usual places where the hard plastic cracks before it enters the firewall on an XJ, but couldn't find anything. Then with the engine running I wiggled lines around till I heard some hissing and traced it back to partly cracked hard plastic larger vac line that fed the HVAC T. It was only partly cracked so road flexing would vary the ammt of the leak. I turned the intermittant into a "broke" and then rejoined the 2 halves with 2" of rubber vac line with a dab of Automotve GOOP over the outside of each junction for good measure. FIXED. And drivabilty feels much better and idle is smoother and the HVAC comes out where you select it to come out. Same happened on the GMC where the steel to rubber to steel connection at the modulator had a bit too mcuh of an S shape and would pinch off vac for no shift. Also vac lines can fail in a variety of differnet ways.. Hard and crispy, or turn to mushy and become soft and suck flat or become porous. This is where the rubber breaks down and turns your hands black when you handle it or gets a powdery coating to it. And the Jeep is a "new 98" compared to my 77 GMC. 21 more years of crispy.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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[GMCnet] charcoal cannister [message #152661 is a reply to message #152654] |
Mon, 12 December 2011 12:56 |
storm'n
Messages: 492 Registered: April 2007 Location: Ont. Can
Karma: 0
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Good stuff that Automotive Goop. Where do you buy it in the U.S?
Norm
Just yesterday I fixed (YEAH) a long time vac leak on my Jeep XJ. I am saying this to restate that nothing beats hands on diagnostic inspection. I know I had varing vac to the HVAC and on throtle the Heat would shift up to the DEF vent ( no vac defaults to DEF) I had previously checked the lines in all the usual places where the hard plastic cracks before it enters the firewall on an XJ, but couldn't find anything. Then with the engine running I wiggled lines around till I heard some hissing and traced it back to partly cracked hard plastic larger vac line that fed the HVAC T. It was only partly cracked so road flexing would vary the ammt of the leak. I turned the intermittant into a "broke" and then rejoined the 2 halves with 2" of rubber vac line with a dab of Automotve GOOP over the outside of each junction for good measure. FIXED. John Lebetski
Chicago, IL
77 Eleganza II
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