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By-pass fill idea for Ken H. [message #147370] Sat, 22 October 2011 10:24 Go to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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Registered: March 2007
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When at Eastern States, I was talking about the pump by-pass to fill the potable tank from city water and you made the comment that you did yours with a solenoid valve and a level contact level sensor to shut it off. (Unless I misunderstood.)

I have an addition to your good idea.

I frequently load the potable tank to half just because I don't want to carry the weight (~170#) of the extra water. Well, you could do that even more easily than I can with just another set of switch selected contacts in the side of the tank.

While I like the idea, I don't happen to have a solenoid valve or a contact level detector lying around. I would want it to be 12VDC as I have frequently taken on water with no AC power handy.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: [GMCnet] By-pass fill idea for Ken H. [message #147385 is a reply to message #147370] Sat, 22 October 2011 13:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Henderson is currently offline  Ken Henderson   United States
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
Matt,

You're right. In fact, one could easily have a stack of well-nut contacts
in the tank, switch selectable for the cutoff -- or, with a functional tank
level gauge, connect the cutoff circuit to it. That's just not how I did it
on the now-gone SOB. I haven't gotten so fancy on the GMC though there are
times when it would be nice. Maybe that's a winter project.

Ken H.

On Sat, Oct 22, 2011 at 11:24 AM, Matt Colie <matt7323tze@gmail.com> wrote:

>
>
> When at Eastern States, I was talking about the pump by-pass to fill the
> potable tank from city water and you made the comment that you did yours
> with a solenoid valve and a level contact level sensor to shut it off.
> (Unless I misunderstood.)
>
> I have an addition to your good idea.
>
> I frequently load the potable tank to half just because I don't want to
> carry the weight (~170#) of the extra water. Well, you could do that even
> more easily than I can with just another set of switch selected contacts in
> the side of the tank.
>
> While I like the idea, I don't happen to have a solenoid valve or a contact
> level detector lying around. I would want it to be 12VDC as I have
> frequently taken on water with no AC power handy.
>
>
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Re: By-pass fill idea for Ken H. [message #147424 is a reply to message #147370] Sat, 22 October 2011 19:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mike miller   United States
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Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Matt Colie wrote on Sat, 22 October 2011 08:24

When at Eastern States, I was talking about the pump by-pass to fill the potable tank from city water and you made the comment that you did yours with a solenoid valve and a level contact level sensor to shut it off. (Unless I misunderstood.) ...


I have been thinking of this functionality for some time. (I think about modifications for a LONG time before doing them... saves me LOTS of mistakes... but sometime even good mods never get done. Rolling Eyes )

I also read about a recirculation system for hot water, to get hot water at the tap without using up your fresh water or filling your black/gray tanks. <http://www.yandina.com/hints.htm#Water> It consists of a valve and line from the tap farthest from the water heater back to the water tank.

This single modification would have three different uses.

1. When boon docking: Saving water by putting the water used to warm up the hot water lines back into fresh water tank.

2. When hooked to city water: Filling the fresh tank without having to move the hose to the tank input.

3. When using the coach in cold weather: Using the water heater to Warm up the fresh water tank... works like a hot water bottle to keep the coach warmer. (Best if you still have the heater still connected to the engine. But is "workable" even if not.)

I am thinking the simplest control would be a wind-up timer. A short time to warm up the lines. A little longer to partially fill the water tank. A long time to warm the tank.

The biggest down side is that all the water in the system does go through the water heater at least once.


Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo' http://m000035.blogspot.com
Re: [GMCnet] By-pass fill idea for Ken H. [message #147430 is a reply to message #147424] Sat, 22 October 2011 20:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Henderson is currently offline  Ken Henderson   United States
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
Mike,

That recirculation idea (which I implemented here at home 6 years ago, with
a pump, because the water heater is 85' from the showers) made me remember
the delivery of my new 40' SOB in '97:

During delivery preparation and system testing (with me watching) the
"technician" couldn't get the water pump to stop running. After he rounded
up a replacement (probably cannibalized from another coach) and installed it
with no improvement, I innocently asked "what's this valve for?". It was
the city water tank fill valve. With it open, the pump's output fed
directly back into the H20 tank. I think the "bad" pump probably pumped 100
gallons 'round'n'round about 50 times. :-)

The quality of the support from that dealer never did improve -- I've got
lots more tales. :-(

Ken H.


On Sat, Oct 22, 2011 at 8:52 PM, Mike Miller <m000035@gmail.com> wrote:

> ...
> I also read about a recirculation system for hot water, to get hot water at
> the tap without using up your fresh water or filling your black/gray tanks.
> <http://www.yandina.com/hints.htm#Water> It consists of a valve and line
> from the tap farthest from the water heater back to the water tank.
> ...
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Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
Re: [GMCnet] By-pass fill idea for Ken H. [message #147534 is a reply to message #147430] Sun, 23 October 2011 16:50 Go to previous message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
Senior Member
Ken Henderson wrote on Sat, 22 October 2011 21:04

Mike,

That recirculation idea (which I implemented here at home 6 years ago, with a pump, because the water heater is 85' from the showers) made me remember the delivery of my new 40' SOB in '97:

During delivery preparation and system testing (with me watching) the "technician" couldn't get the water pump to stop running. After he rounded up a replacement (probably cannibalized from another coach) and installed it with no improvement, I innocently asked "what's this valve for?". It was the city water tank fill valve. With it open, the pump's output fed directly back into the H20 tank. I think the "bad" pump probably pumped 100 gallons 'round'n'round about 50 times. Smile

The quality of the support from that dealer never did improve -- I've got lots more tales. Sad

Ken H.

Sometime Ken, You have got to tell us more.
Do you think that the subject person ever figure out what happened and how silly he looked?

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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