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Electrical problem [message #146175] Tue, 11 October 2011 15:25 Go to next message
Bill W is currently offline  Bill W   United States
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Registered: July 2005
Location: Sheboygan, WI
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Junior Member

I need some guidance in figuring out what's going on with the voltage in my '77. Started it last week and everything was fine. While idling I pumped up the air bags. My digi-panel alerted me to the fact that voltage had dropped below 11 (went red), but the gen light on the dash didn't come on. Next day, everything was fine again, but after about 10 minutes of driving, same readout on the digi-panel. After that, only red on the digi-panel, still no gen light. Replaced alternator (6 year old Duralast from Autozone) and charged battery (it was a bit low). Now, voltage is steady but still low: 12.89 at battery when not running, 12.77 at battery when running. Battery tests OK. I cleaned grounds and tightened connections. What's next? Another alternator or ?? I do have the standard battery disconnect switch on the firewall and boost switch on dash. Thanks!

Bill Wetzel
77 Royale 26RB
Sheboygan, WI
Re: Electrical problem [message #146192 is a reply to message #146175] Tue, 11 October 2011 17:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
WD0AFQ is currently offline  WD0AFQ   United States
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Check your alternator output, not at the battery, back up to the isolator.
Dan


3 In Stainless Exhaust Headers One Ton All Discs/Reaction Arm 355 FD/Quad Bag/Alum Radiator Manny Tran/New eng. Holley EFI/10 Tire Air Monitoring System Solarized Coach/Upgraded Windows Satelite TV/On Demand Hot Water/3Way Refer
Re: Electrical problem [message #146215 is a reply to message #146175] Tue, 11 October 2011 18:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Luvn737s is currently offline  Luvn737s   United States
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What shape were the batteries in?

Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
Re: Electrical problem [message #146225 is a reply to message #146175] Tue, 11 October 2011 20:20 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JohnL455 is currently offline  JohnL455   United States
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Yes take a VOM with engine running and meter at the output terminal of the alt, which is same as centre terminal of the isolator. if in the upper 13s or low 14s you should be good. Then check each of the two other terminal of the isolator to ground. These should be just a touch lower but in the high 13s I believe. If lower on either side the isolator is bad. It can them be removed after diconnecting the negatives at both batteries and tested out of circuit with an ohm meeter to check the diodes.

John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Re: Electrical problem [message #146241 is a reply to message #146225] Tue, 11 October 2011 23:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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Location: Hebron, Indiana
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After doing John's suggestions, if the voltages were OK, (14.7 on the center terminal of the isolator and 14.0 the other two (give or take a few 10's of a volt)), then read the voltage across the battery. IT should match what you read on the upper and lower terminals of the isolator. If it doesn't then you will need to back up and find out where you voltage drop is.

I'm also wonder if the digi-panel is lying to you. I wonder where the digi-panel is attached and sensing the voltage? Did you get your ground for the digi-panel off of the instrument panel?

Finally have you looked at the fusible link wire that everything runs through? I have seen a few of those go bad.


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: Electrical problem [message #146246 is a reply to message #146241] Tue, 11 October 2011 23:36 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bill W is currently offline  Bill W   United States
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Location: Sheboygan, WI
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Thanks, guys. You've given me ideas of where to proceed. The batteries are good and the digi-panel is grounded at the alternator mounting bracket. Not sure where the fusible link is, though.

Bill


Bill Wetzel
77 Royale 26RB
Sheboygan, WI
Re: Electrical problem [message #146252 is a reply to message #146246] Wed, 12 October 2011 00:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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The fusible link is a black 16 gauge piece of wire about 6 inches long. It is located under the passenger side hood. One end is connected to the "Battery Pick Up Junction Block" which is that BIG single terminal, which I think is a 5/18 x 18 stud, and a medium size terminal on the horn relay/buzzer.

If you do replace it make sure you get fusible link wire. Auto Zone has it in 6" lengths in a bubble pack in the electrical section for about $3.00. Throw a volt meter across it and see how much drop you have. Also wiggle it around. I have seen a few of them badly deteriorated.


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: Electrical problem [message #146301 is a reply to message #146252] Wed, 12 October 2011 12:50 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bill W is currently offline  Bill W   United States
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Registered: July 2005
Location: Sheboygan, WI
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OK, now I'm confused. Voltage at the isolator (middle alternator terminal) and at the back of the alternator is very high, between 45 and 50. What gives??

Bill


Bill Wetzel
77 Royale 26RB
Sheboygan, WI
Re: Electrical problem [message #146302 is a reply to message #146301] Wed, 12 October 2011 12:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
wally is currently offline  wally   United States
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Bill W wrote on Wed, 12 October 2011 12:50

OK, now I'm confused. Voltage at the isolator (middle alternator terminal) and at the back of the alternator is very high, between 45 and 50. What gives??

Bill

Isolator is bad, odd that it is that high though. House battery should load it down some unless both sides of the isolator are open.


Wally Anderson
Omaha NE
75 Glenbrook
Re: Electrical problem [message #146306 is a reply to message #146302] Wed, 12 October 2011 13:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bill W is currently offline  Bill W   United States
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Registered: July 2005
Location: Sheboygan, WI
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Junior Member

OK, put in a different battery and found that the boost switch, although it 'clicks' doesn't seem to tie in the house batteries, which I know are good. Does that then also point to the isolator being bad? Thanks!
Bill


Bill Wetzel
77 Royale 26RB
Sheboygan, WI
Re: Electrical problem [message #146308 is a reply to message #146306] Wed, 12 October 2011 14:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
wally is currently offline  wally   United States
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Location: Omaha Nebraska
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Bill W wrote on Wed, 12 October 2011 13:45

OK, put in a different battery and found that the boost switch, although it 'clicks' doesn't seem to tie in the house batteries, which I know are good. Does that then also point to the isolator being bad? Thanks!
Bill

Bill that solenoid only connects the house and chassis batteries together. The isolator is not part of it. Effectively it jumps the top and bottom terminals of the isolator together. With the boost "on" the house and chassis battery voltage should be equal. If the isolator failed open there would still be no charging.


Wally Anderson
Omaha NE
75 Glenbrook
Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem [message #146310 is a reply to message #146301] Wed, 12 October 2011 14:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
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If your Voltage is that high, the internal regulator in the Alternator is
defunct. Have it rebuilt. Now. Do not run it like that. Your digi panel
won't like that much voltage nor will any other of your GMC components.
Remove the isolator connections and check to see if the diodes have failed
by first checking them with an ohm meter in one polarity and then in
opposite polarity. They should have almost no resistance in one direction,
and nearly infinite resistance in the other. If either post shows continuity
in both directions, replace the isolator with one rated as many amps or
higher than the one you have.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403

On Wed, Oct 12, 2011 at 10:50 AM, Bill Wetzel <billandpatwetzel@gmail.com>wrote:

>
>
> OK, now I'm confused. Voltage at the isolator (middle alternator terminal)
> and at the back of the alternator is very high, between 45 and 50. What
> gives??
>
> Bill
> --
> Bill Wetzel
> 77 Royale 26RB
> Sheboygan, WI
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem [message #146312 is a reply to message #146310] Wed, 12 October 2011 14:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
emerystora is currently offline  emerystora   United States
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Registered: January 2004
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Senior Member
Or, the voltage regulator might still be all right but the sensor lead to the alternator that tells it to keep stepping up the voltage might be bad or a loose connection.

Emery Stora

On Oct 12, 2011, at 1:24 PM, James Hupy wrote:

> If your Voltage is that high, the internal regulator in the Alternator is
> defunct. Have it rebuilt. Now. Do not run it like that. Your digi panel
> won't like that much voltage nor will any other of your GMC components.
> Remove the isolator connections and check to see if the diodes have failed
> by first checking them with an ohm meter in one polarity and then in
> opposite polarity. They should have almost no resistance in one direction,
> and nearly infinite resistance in the other. If either post shows continuity
> in both directions, replace the isolator with one rated as many amps or
> higher than the one you have.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, OR
> 78 GMC Royale 403
>
> On Wed, Oct 12, 2011 at 10:50 AM, Bill Wetzel <billandpatwetzel@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> OK, now I'm confused. Voltage at the isolator (middle alternator terminal)
>> and at the back of the alternator is very high, between 45 and 50. What
>> gives??
>>
>> Bill
>> --
>> Bill Wetzel
>> 77 Royale 26RB
>> Sheboygan, WI
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
> _______________________________________________
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> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM


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Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem [message #146313 is a reply to message #146310] Wed, 12 October 2011 14:31 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Dennis S is currently offline  Dennis S   United States
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In his first post I understoon Bill to say he had replaced the alternator... of course it could be a faulty replacement as well..

Dennis

James Hupy wrote on Wed, 12 October 2011 14:24

If your Voltage is that high, the internal regulator in the Alternator is
defunct. Have it rebuilt. Now. Do not run it like that. Your digi panel
won't like that much voltage nor will any other of your GMC components.
Remove the isolator connections and check to see if the diodes have failed
by first checking them with an ohm meter in one polarity and then in
opposite polarity. They should have almost no resistance in one direction,
and nearly infinite resistance in the other. If either post shows continuity
in both directions, replace the isolator with one rated as many amps or
higher than the one you have.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403

On Wed, Oct 12, 2011 at 10:50 AM, Bill Wetzel <billandpatwetzel@gmail.com>wrote:

>
>
> OK, now I'm confused. Voltage at the isolator (middle alternator terminal)
> and at the back of the alternator is very high, between 45 and 50. What
> gives??
>
> Bill
> --
> Bill Wetzel
> 77 Royale 26RB
> Sheboygan, WI




Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro

[Updated on: Wed, 12 October 2011 14:31]

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Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem [message #146314 is a reply to message #146310] Wed, 12 October 2011 14:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
wally is currently offline  wally   United States
Messages: 643
Registered: August 2004
Location: Omaha Nebraska
Karma: 5
Senior Member
James Hupy wrote on Wed, 12 October 2011 14:24

If your Voltage is that high, the internal regulator in the Alternator is
defunct. Have it rebuilt. Now. Do not run it like that. Your digi panel
won't like that much voltage nor will any other of your GMC components.
Remove the isolator connections and check to see if the diodes have failed
by first checking them with an ohm meter in one polarity and then in
opposite polarity. They should have almost no resistance in one direction,
and nearly infinite resistance in the other. If either post shows continuity
in both directions, replace the isolator with one rated as many amps or
higher than the one you have.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403

]



Jim, I'm thinking if the isolator is open the alternator output voltage would be high. The regulator voltage sense input is on the chassis side of the isolator.


Wally Anderson
Omaha NE
75 Glenbrook
Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem [message #146316 is a reply to message #146314] Wed, 12 October 2011 15:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
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Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
Senior Member
The output from the alternator is regulated by limiting the field strength
in the rotor. The circuit is best described as "load excited" or "demand
excited". The stator windings are a "wye". Three output wires insulated from
each other phased 120 degrees apart from each other. Both ends of each wire
terminate at a diode. There are 6 diodes in the rectifier bridge. 3 + diodes
and 3 - diodes. Their purpose is to take the AC output from the stator and
convert it to DC by only allowing current to pass in one direction. After
the bridge rectifier, their output goes to the large binding post that your
big red wire attatches to. The regulator receives voltage from the batteries
and excites the electomagnets in the rotor. The stronger the field strength,
the more current output on the stator. The regulator operates by turing the
field on and off thereby limiting field strength and output. It goes without
saying that any loose connections affect output. Push on connectors are
known for losing their grip and causing high resistance. That can limit or
fool the regulator into going "full field" which is what your alternator is
doing. Check those wires and connectors, make sure that everything is clean,
bright, and tight. It is all 30 plus years old.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403

On Wed, Oct 12, 2011 at 12:34 PM, Wally Anderson <wallyand@aim.com> wrote:

>
>
> James Hupy wrote on Wed, 12 October 2011 14:24
> > If your Voltage is that high, the internal regulator in the Alternator is
> > defunct. Have it rebuilt. Now. Do not run it like that. Your digi panel
> > won't like that much voltage nor will any other of your GMC components.
> > Remove the isolator connections and check to see if the diodes have
> failed
> > by first checking them with an ohm meter in one polarity and then in
> > opposite polarity. They should have almost no resistance in one
> direction,
> > and nearly infinite resistance in the other. If either post shows
> continuity
> > in both directions, replace the isolator with one rated as many amps or
> > higher than the one you have.
> > Jim Hupy
> > Salem, OR
> > 78 GMC Royale 403
> >
> > ]
>
> Jim, I'm thinking if the isolator is open the alternator output voltage
> would be high. The regulator voltage sense input is on the chassis side of
> the isolator.
> --
> Wally Anderson
> 1975 Glenbrook
> Megasquirt 455 port injection science project-On the road 8162 miles
> Omaha Nebraska
> Greater Midwest Classics
> GMCES
> http://wallyandsue.blogspot.com/
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>
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Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem [message #146317 is a reply to message #146314] Wed, 12 October 2011 15:09 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Henderson is currently offline  Ken Henderson   United States
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
If the voltage is that high, the regulator has failed catastrophically.
Even with the isolator open on the chassis battery side, disconnecting the
voltage sense lead, the regulator should limit the output voltage to about
18 VDC -- MAX.

It may be that the voltage is actually a 1/2 sine wave rather than DC. Most
meters cannot read that voltage waveform accurately. As shown by Dave
Mumert's simulations some years ago, failed diodes can cause that condition
-- and a Nichrome wire catastrophe.

DON'T run the engine with that alternator installed!

Ken H.


On Wed, Oct 12, 2011 at 3:34 PM, Wally Anderson <wallyand@aim.com> wrote:

>
>
> James Hupy wrote on Wed, 12 October 2011 14:24
> > If your Voltage is that high, the internal regulator in the Alternator is
> > defunct. Have it rebuilt. Now. Do not run it like that. Your digi panel
> > won't like that much voltage nor will any other of your GMC components.
> > Remove the isolator connections and check to see if the diodes have
> failed
> > by first checking them with an ohm meter in one polarity and then in
> > opposite polarity. They should have almost no resistance in one
> direction,
> > and nearly infinite resistance in the other. If either post shows
> continuity
> > in both directions, replace the isolator with one rated as many amps or
> > higher than the one you have.
> > Jim Hupy
> > Salem, OR
> > 78 GMC Royale 403
> >
> > ]
>
> Jim, I'm thinking if the isolator is open the alternator output voltage
> would be high. The regulator voltage sense input is on the chassis side of
> the isolator.
> --
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem [message #146323 is a reply to message #146313] Wed, 12 October 2011 16:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Mr ERFisher is currently offline  Mr ERFisher   United States
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Registered: August 2005
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Senior Member
Hope you had an apc cable
Gene

FREE WIFI @ Mickey D





On Oct 12, 2011, at 12:31 PM, Dennis Sexton <dennisfsexton@aol.com> wrote:

>
>
> In his first post I understoon Bill to say he had replaced the alternator... or course it could be a faulty replacement as well..
>
> Dennis
>
> James Hupy wrote on Wed, 12 October 2011 14:24
>> If your Voltage is that high, the internal regulator in the Alternator is
>> defunct. Have it rebuilt. Now. Do not run it like that. Your digi panel
>> won't like that much voltage nor will any other of your GMC components.
>> Remove the isolator connections and check to see if the diodes have failed
>> by first checking them with an ohm meter in one polarity and then in
>> opposite polarity. They should have almost no resistance in one direction,
>> and nearly infinite resistance in the other. If either post shows continuity
>> in both directions, replace the isolator with one rated as many amps or
>> higher than the one you have.
>> Jim Hupy
>> Salem, OR
>> 78 GMC Royale 403
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 12, 2011 at 10:50 AM, Bill Wetzel <billandpatwetzel@gmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> OK, now I'm confused. Voltage at the isolator (middle alternator terminal)
>>> and at the back of the alternator is very high, between 45 and 50. What
>>> gives??
>>>
>>> Bill
>>> --
>>> Bill Wetzel
>>> 77 Royale 26RB
>>> Sheboygan, WI
>
>
> --
> Dennis S
> 73 Painted Desert 230
> Germantown, TN
> _______________________________________________
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Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem [message #146331 is a reply to message #146317] Wed, 12 October 2011 18:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
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Senior Member
Dang Ken, We finally agreed on something! <Grin> Maybe there is hope for us
after all.
Just kidding
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403

On Wed, Oct 12, 2011 at 1:09 PM, Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net>wrote:

> If the voltage is that high, the regulator has failed catastrophically.
> Even with the isolator open on the chassis battery side, disconnecting the
> voltage sense lead, the regulator should limit the output voltage to about
> 18 VDC -- MAX.
>
> It may be that the voltage is actually a 1/2 sine wave rather than DC.
> Most
> meters cannot read that voltage waveform accurately. As shown by Dave
> Mumert's simulations some years ago, failed diodes can cause that condition
> -- and a Nichrome wire catastrophe.
>
> DON'T run the engine with that alternator installed!
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 12, 2011 at 3:34 PM, Wally Anderson <wallyand@aim.com> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > James Hupy wrote on Wed, 12 October 2011 14:24
> > > If your Voltage is that high, the internal regulator in the Alternator
> is
> > > defunct. Have it rebuilt. Now. Do not run it like that. Your digi panel
> > > won't like that much voltage nor will any other of your GMC components.
> > > Remove the isolator connections and check to see if the diodes have
> > failed
> > > by first checking them with an ohm meter in one polarity and then in
> > > opposite polarity. They should have almost no resistance in one
> > direction,
> > > and nearly infinite resistance in the other. If either post shows
> > continuity
> > > in both directions, replace the isolator with one rated as many amps or
> > > higher than the one you have.
> > > Jim Hupy
> > > Salem, OR
> > > 78 GMC Royale 403
> > >
> > > ]
> >
> > Jim, I'm thinking if the isolator is open the alternator output voltage
> > would be high. The regulator voltage sense input is on the chassis side
> of
> > the isolator.
> > --
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Re: [GMCnet] Electrical problem [message #146333 is a reply to message #146331] Wed, 12 October 2011 18:25 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Ken Henderson is currently offline  Ken Henderson   United States
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
Jim,

I hope you can remember what we disagree on -- I must have slept since then.
:-)

Ken H.


On Wed, Oct 12, 2011 at 7:04 PM, James Hupy <jamesh1296@gmail.com> wrote:

> Dang Ken, We finally agreed on something! <Grin> Maybe there is hope for us
> after all.
> Just kidding
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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