Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » CV joint leaking? (Grease sprayed around the engine compartment.)
| CV joint leaking? [message #145360] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 11:10  |
Andrew
Messages: 213
Registered: April 2011
Location: Connecticut
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I opened up the hatch today to locate the source of some belt slippage.
Instead I found a bunch of grease slung around, eggbeater style, on the driver's side of the engine. It's very thick stuff thrown in small globs, creating hundreds of fat black whiskers. It landed all over the place, but especially on the ATF dipstick tube and the lower diagonal structural member.
I think it's coming from the inner CV joint. The boot itself is relatively clean, but eggbeaters often are. Does this seem likely?
Could this be caused by my over-turning steering gearbox? I have tried to be careful, and I would have expected any damage to appear on the outer CV joint first, but nothing would surprise me.
I've also been running a few hundred miles with a "diminished" front driver's side shock absorber. It doesn't handle jolts well, and it rides a couple inches low, but it's still got some spring in it. Handling is mediocre but better than I've experienced over most of the last 3000 miles. The shock absorbers all around are new KYBs, 4 months 3000 miles. The axles and CV joints are also new, for that matter.
I'm assuming it would be very unwise to keep driving at this point, and we should be planning for a few days of waiting and fixing, instead of barreling westward to reach San Francisco in time for Fleet Week this coming weekend.
We're presently in Nebraska City, NE. Near I-29 and I-80, about 50 miles south of Omaha and 50 miles east of Lincoln, NE. And 1600 miles east of San Francisco. :-/
1973 Sequoia 260 (since 2011)
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| Re: CV joint leaking? [message #145363 is a reply to message #145360] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 11:32  |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
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Andrew,
Are you saying that the front left (driver's side) is riding low by two inches? I do not think this would/could be a bad shock absorber. We need more information here.
Yes, an inside CV joint can sling grease -- when mine did so, I cleaned the joint thoroughly, wrapped it well with duct tape and drove on home (about 370 miles).
Dennis
| Andrew wrote on Mon, 03 October 2011 11:10 |
I opened up the hatch today to locate the source of some belt slippage.
Instead I found a bunch of grease slung around, eggbeater style, on the driver's side of the engine. It's very thick stuff thrown in small globs, creating hundreds of fat black whiskers. It landed all over the place, but especially on the ATF dipstick tube and the lower diagonal structural member.
I think it's coming from the inner CV joint. The boot itself is relatively clean, but eggbeaters often are. Does this seem likely?
Could this be caused by my over-turning steering gearbox? I have tried to be careful, and I would have expected any damage to appear on the outer CV joint first, but nothing would surprise me.
I've also been running a few hundred miles with a "diminished" front driver's side shock absorber. It doesn't handle jolts well, and it rides a couple inches low, but it's still got some spring in it. Handling is mediocre but better than I've experienced over most of the last 3000 miles. The shock absorbers all around are new KYBs, 4 months 3000 miles. The axles and CV joints are also new, for that matter.
I'm assuming it would be very unwise to keep driving at this point, and we should be planning for a few days of waiting and fixing, instead of barreling westward to reach San Francisco in time for Fleet Week this coming weekend.
We're presently in Nebraska City, NE. Near I-29 and I-80, about 50 miles south of Omaha and 50 miles east of Lincoln, NE. And 1600 miles east of San Francisco. :-/
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: CV joint leaking? [message #145365 is a reply to message #145363] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 11:50 |
Andrew
Messages: 213
Registered: April 2011
Location: Connecticut
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| Dennis S wrote on Mon, 03 October 2011 12:32 |
Are you saying that the front left (driver's side) is riding low by two inches? I do not think this would/could be a bad shock absorber. We need more information here.
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Yes, it's riding low and also rough, like road shock is not being fully absorbed. The difference in clearance inside the wheel well (compared to the passenger side, which also absorbs shock better) measures 1-1/2 inches.
| Quote: |
Yes, an inside CV joint can sling grease -- when mine did so, I cleaned the joint thoroughly, wrapped it well with duct tape and drove on home (about 370 miles).
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Did you need to repack it with grease first?
Thanks!
1973 Sequoia 260 (since 2011)
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| Re: CV joint leaking? [message #145370 is a reply to message #145365] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 12:14 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Andrew,
Sounds more like the torsion bar is in question -- possibly the bar has fatigued, the torsion joint is failing or the porkchop has somehow slipped. DO NOT go under the coach whithout some blocking -- but take a look at some of the areas for obvious differences -- compare the porkchop settings from left to right side -- look for any signs of cracks around the a frame mounting for the front of the torsion bar.
As for the CV joint -- I knew I had only driven about 30 miles while mine was slinging grease -- so No, I did not repack it.
Dennis
| Andrew wrote on Mon, 03 October 2011 11:50 |
| Dennis S wrote on Mon, 03 October 2011 12:32 |
Are you saying that the front left (driver's side) is riding low by two inches? I do not think this would/could be a bad shock absorber. We need more information here.
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Yes, it's riding low and also rough, like road shock is not being fully absorbed. The difference in clearance inside the wheel well (compared to the passenger side, which also absorbs shock better) measures 1-1/2 inches.
| Quote: |
Yes, an inside CV joint can sling grease -- when mine did so, I cleaned the joint thoroughly, wrapped it well with duct tape and drove on home (about 370 miles).
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Did you need to repack it with grease first?
Thanks!
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: [GMCnet] CV joint leaking? [message #145371 is a reply to message #145360] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 12:12 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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The ride height is set by the torsion bars on either side, the shock
plays no part in the ride height! It CANNOT be adjusted without using
the torsion bar unloading tool to release the load on the adjusting
bolt. If you try you will strip out the adjusting bolt on the pork
chop. I would check both the inner and outer boots for leaks and they
can be very suttle and hard to see. All it take is a slight cut to
rust proof the wheel well. As for driving it unless it still
continues to drop, it should be ok. If it still continues to drop the
lower A arm hex could be failing. Be sure and check the drive axle
bolts for tightness.
JR Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMC Eastern States
GMCMHI
78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
1975 Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan
On Oct 3, 2011, at 12:10 PM, Andrew wrote:
>
>
> I opened up the hatch today to locate the source of some belt
> slippage.
>
> Instead I found a bunch of grease slung around, eggbeater style, on
> the driver's side of the engine. It's very thick stuff thrown in
> small globs, creating hundreds of fat black whiskers. It landed all
> over the place, but especially on the ATF dipstick tube and the
> lower diagonal structural member.
>
> I think it's coming from the inner CV joint. The boot itself is
> relatively clean, but eggbeaters often are. Does this seem likely?
>
> Could this be caused by my over-turning steering gearbox? I have
> tried to be careful, and I would have expected any damage to appear
> on the outer CV joint first, but nothing would surprise me.
>
> I've also been running a few hundred miles with a "diminished" front
> driver's side shock absorber. It doesn't handle jolts well, and it
> rides a couple inches low, but it's still got some spring in it.
> Handling is mediocre but better than I've experienced over most of
> the last 3000 miles. The shock absorbers all around are new KYBs, 4
> months 3000 miles. The axles and CV joints are also new, for that
> matter.
>
> I'm assuming it would be very unwise to keep driving at this point,
> and we should be planning for a few days of waiting and fixing,
> instead of barreling westward to reach San Francisco in time for
> Fleet Week this coming weekend.
>
> We're presently in Nebraska City, NE. Near I-29 and I-80, about 50
> miles south of Omaha and 50 miles east of Lincoln, NE. And 1600
> miles east of San Francisco. :-/
>
> --
> 1973 Sequoia 260 (since 2011)
> In-transit, westward
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: CV joint leaking, torsion bar failing? [message #145388 is a reply to message #145370] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 13:44 |
Andrew
Messages: 213
Registered: April 2011
Location: Connecticut
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| Dennis S wrote on Mon, 03 October 2011 13:14 |
Andrew,
Sounds more like the torsion bar is in question -- possibly the bar has fatigued, the torsion joint is failing or the porkchop has somehow slipped. DO NOT go under the coach whithout some blocking -- but take a look at some of the areas for obvious differences -- compare the porkchop settings from left to right side -- look for any signs of cracks around the a frame mounting for the front of the torsion bar.
As for the CV joint -- I knew I had only driven about 30 miles while mine was slinging grease -- so No, I did not repack it.
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I can't see any differences in the mechanisms. The adjusting bolt is about the same on both sides. I see no fractures or damage.
The only difference visible to me is that the control arms and axle on the driver's side are at a slight upward angle to the wheel, whereas the passenger's side is just about level.
How sudden is the onset of fatigue in a torsion bar? Is the torsion joint more likely? I'm not going to be able to fix this in a campground, am I?
Thanks for your help. These machines consume a lot of gas, but they are powered by GMCnet.
1973 Sequoia 260 (since 2011)
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| Re: [GMCnet] CV joint leaking? [message #145398 is a reply to message #145371] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 15:15 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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OK here is another opinion.
The leaking boot needs to be fixed either temporarily with cleaning and tape, or permanently with a new boot. You will have to make that call after closely looking at it.
The suspension drop bothers me. Do you know that it was correct when you left for you trip? If the answer is no, then maybe it is just maladjusted. If the answer is yes, then you need to find the cause.
I would first see if the bar has partially pulled out of the pork chop. I have seen one that did this and it partially broke the internal area of the pork chop. There is a hole in the back of the cross frame where you can insert a small bolt or wire to see if the pork chop has slipped out. The second thing that it could be is the socket in the lower A-frame. Many of these have broken in the past. Jim K. sells a beefed up replacements made by Steve Ferguson if that is your problem.
If the bar is partially pulled out of the pork chop then I would suspect worn lower A-frame bushings allowing he A-frame to pull forward on the bar. If you take the bar out, clean the bar and socket thoroughly. Then liberally lubricate the bar and A-frame socket with anti-seize prior to reassembly. DO NOT lubricate the bar on the pork chop end.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] CV joint leaking, torsion bar failing? [message #145399 is a reply to message #145391] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 15:48 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
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If the torsion bar is "fatigued", it's not going to be fixed outside of a
spring shop. A different pork chop may allow it to be used for a while
longer. And adjustable one may enable that period to be extended. But once
a torsion bar, like any other spring, exceeds its elastic limit (that
distortion from which it cannot recover), it's basically scrap iron (though
a spring shop MAY be able to restore it).
That's not to say a torsion bar's life can't be extended a little, but don't
expect miracles.
Ken H.
On Mon, Oct 3, 2011 at 2:58 PM, Dan Gregg <gregg_dan@hotmail.com> wrote:
... Like J.R. said, also keep your eyes on that drooping side. If it gets
> worse, stop and call Jim K. or someone. Should it be the torsion bar
> fatiguing, Jim has an adjustable porkchop that will bring it back up to
> snuff...
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www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] CV joint leaking? [message #145400 is a reply to message #145398] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 15:53 |
John Sharpe
Messages: 489
Registered: February 2006
Location: Texas
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2 different issues. As Jim and Dan said, "Replace the inner boot" before you ruin a cv joint on the side of the road. If the grease is coming from the flange, then it's possible the cv joint was packed with too much grease and it is being forced out the breather hole that's in the flange area. In that case just drive it, watch it and clean it up later after all the excess grease has been expelled.
Ride height can also be caused by coach loading which may be easy to rectify by moving heavy items within the coach. How's the rear ride height? Too high on the right rear will make the left front low.
John Sharpe
Humble,TX
'78 Eleganza TBI
'89 Spectrum 2000 MPI V-10
'40 Ford Panel Delivery TPI
johnasharpe@gmail.com
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| Re: CV joint leaking? [message #145401 is a reply to message #145360] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 16:08 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
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Jim K has the Dorman Unifit boots which have more pleats and are very flexible, the theory being they are less apt to split or pull off the CV.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: CV joint leaking? [message #145413 is a reply to message #145360] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 16:53 |
Andrew
Messages: 213
Registered: April 2011
Location: Connecticut
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Definitely two issues here, although perhaps causally connected. Actually three issues, but the noisy belt was just the A/C compressor belt, and it had the good sense to go ahead and break while I was putting the coach up on ramps. So, only two issues left. A/C didn't work anyway.
Re: CV boot, O'Reillys will have a Dorman 614-004 for me at 8am tomorrow. I have no idea what I'm doing putting it on, but maybe I will be smarter by tomorrow afternoon.
Re: torsion bar, I want to say that I'm sure things were right when we started the trip 3000 miles ago, but it's been a long time and I'm just not certain. It's pretty noticeable now, and I can't imagine I missed it, but neither do I specifically remember it being correct. We've had so much trouble with the ride/handling and so many new parts along the way that it could have happened at any time.
I will get back under the coach and see if I can find any evidence of separation at the front or back of the bar. I'll also double check the control arms and A-frame thingy. If it all looks solid, and it's not getting worse, can I just drive it? Is wheel well clearance a reasonable metric to track? I'm heading to California, not far from Mr. Kanomata. But it is 1600 miles, almost all of them on I-80.
Thanks so much,
Andrew
1973 Sequoia 260 (since 2011)
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| Re: CV joint leaking? [message #145417 is a reply to message #145413] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 17:25 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Andrew,
At this point (if it were me) I would contact Wally Anderson, see the Black List -- he is in Omaha -- and ask if he is available to look at it if you drive it there.
Dennis
| Andrew wrote on Mon, 03 October 2011 16:53 |
Definitely two issues here, although perhaps causally connected. Actually three issues, but the noisy belt was just the A/C compressor belt, and it had the good sense to go ahead and break while I was putting the coach up on ramps. So, only two issues left. A/C didn't work anyway.
Re: CV boot, O'Reillys will have a Dorman 614-004 for me at 8am tomorrow. I have no idea what I'm doing putting it on, but maybe I will be smarter by tomorrow afternoon.
Re: torsion bar, I want to say that I'm sure things were right when we started the trip 3000 miles ago, but it's been a long time and I'm just not certain. It's pretty noticeable now, and I can't imagine I missed it, but neither do I specifically remember it being correct. We've had so much trouble with the ride/handling and so many new parts along the way that it could have happened at any time.
I will get back under the coach and see if I can find any evidence of separation at the front or back of the bar. I'll also double check the control arms and A-frame thingy. If it all looks solid, and it's not getting worse, can I just drive it? Is wheel well clearance a reasonable metric to track? I'm heading to California, not far from Mr. Kanomata. But it is 1600 miles, almost all of them on I-80.
Thanks so much,
Andrew
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: [GMCnet] CV joint leaking? [message #145420 is a reply to message #145413] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 17:48 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Andrew,
Re the CV joint boot:
I just did a Google search for Dorman 614-004 and here's a link:
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-614-004-HELP-Universal-Silicone/dp/B000C0YAA4
This is an OUTER CV joint boot not an inner.
The inner CV joint boot looks like this:
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/661
Re the torsion bar:
Queries for the group:
1) Has anyone ever heard of a torsion bar ON A GMC snapping?
2) What happens if the torsion bar snaps?
3) What happens if the socket in the lower control arm fails?
Obviously the GMC will drop on the side that fails, how far will it drop? What will be the ramifications if it does drop? Will the
GMC be impossible to control? If it fails at freeway speed will the results be catastrophic?
We need to provide Andrew with information so he can make a decision on how to handle the problem.
If the responses to these questions do not indicate catastrophic results then you could consider:
1) Park the GMC on a level flat surface
2) Measure the distance from the ground to the bottom of the frame where the front frame is bolted to the rear frame directly under
the two middle bolts.
3) Record that distance
4) Drive to your next stop and repeat the exercise
Do this for a few days and you will be able to see if the problem is getting worse.
Regards,
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew
Definitely two issues here, although perhaps causally connected. Actually three issues, but the noisy belt was just the A/C
compressor belt, and it had the good sense to go ahead and break while I was putting the coach up on ramps. So, only two issues
left. A/C didn't work anyway.
Re: CV boot, O'Reillys will have a Dorman 614-004 for me at 8am tomorrow. I have no idea what I'm doing putting it on, but maybe I
will be smarter by tomorrow afternoon.
Re: torsion bar, I want to say that I'm sure things were right when we started the trip 3000 miles ago, but it's been a long time
and I'm just not certain. It's pretty noticeable now, and I can't imagine I missed it, but neither do I specifically remember it
being correct. We've had so much trouble with the ride/handling and so many new parts along the way that it could have happened at
any time.
I will get back under the coach and see if I can find any evidence of separation at the front or back of the bar. I'll also double
check the control arms and A-frame thingy. If it all looks solid, and it's not getting worse, can I just drive it? Is wheel well
clearance a reasonable metric to track? I'm heading to California, not far from Mr. Kanomata. But it is 1600 miles, almost all of
them on I-80.
Thanks so much,
Andrew
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] CV joint leaking? [message #145429 is a reply to message #145413] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 20:09 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Andrew,
As has been mentioned, the inner CV joint boot leakage can be from several
locations:
1. Concealed inside the transmission-to-axle joint (secured with 6 each
12-point bolts) is a cap on the CV joint. There's a vent in the center of
that cap. If the CV joint is grossly over-filled, grease can come out
through that vent and seep through the transmission-to-axle joint. In that
case, you should have a clearly defined grease deposit directly in line with
that joint.
2. The rubber boot can have a hole in it, allowing grease to sling out.
You should be able to find such a leak visually by examining the boot
carefully.
3. Most common, in my experience, is leakage between the cast body of the
CV joint and the "tin can" part of the boot. That junction is supposed to
be sealed with an O-ring, with the tin can crimped into the cast body. I
recently replaced an axle on which that joint leaked from the moment it was
installed after being rebuilt by a reputable company. Such a leak should
be obvious from the grease spray in line with it and the grease collected
around the tin/cast junction. If that's your problem, and there's not a
huge amount of leakage showing, I'd suggest a simple temporary fix:
I ran my leaking CV for probably 10,000 miles. As soon as I spotted the
leak, I THOROUGHLY cleaned the area with brake cleaner -- almost a whole
can. When it was dry, I carefully ran a bead of RTV (black silicone gasket
maker) around the joint. After it dried overnight, a test drive showed that
an entrapped bubble was still allowing slight leakage. Not wanting grease
all over the engine compartment, I wrapped a piece of leatherette around the
joint, oriented so that the axle rotation would wrap it tighter, and secured
it with large Ty-Wraps. Surprisingly, when removed there was very little
grease inside.
In your place, I'd find a way to run the CV to Jim K's.
As for the torsion bar:
As Rob reported, I had one come out of the pork chop. While it was a
dramatic event: A big, sudden, totally unexpected BANG! which left me
leaning forward looking down at the road. Fortunately, it happened at low
speed -- maybe 15 mph -- as I negotiated a highly crowned cross street. If
it had happened at road speed, it would have been even more frightening, but
I don't think it would have been catastrophic
In your situation, I'd find a way, hopefully by finding Black List member
with a torsion bar tool, to try adjusting the ride height. If I couldn't
get it right, I'd find out why and fix it, regardless what it took -- it's
not a conditon with which I'd drive very far. Your statement about
ride/handling issues and many new parts bothers me. Why don't you tell us
what all has been replaced, and by whom?
JMHO,
Ken H.
On Mon, Oct 3, 2011 at 5:53 PM, Andrew <reynhout@quesera.com> wrote:
>
>
> Definitely two issues here, although perhaps causally connected. Actually
> three issues, but the noisy belt was just the A/C compressor belt, and it
> had the good sense to go ahead and break while I was putting the coach up on
> ramps. So, only two issues left. A/C didn't work anyway.
>
> Re: CV boot, O'Reillys will have a Dorman 614-004 for me at 8am tomorrow. I
> have no idea what I'm doing putting it on, but maybe I will be smarter by
> tomorrow afternoon.
>
> Re: torsion bar, I want to say that I'm sure things were right when we
> started the trip 3000 miles ago, but it's been a long time and I'm just not
> certain. It's pretty noticeable now, and I can't imagine I missed it, but
> neither do I specifically remember it being correct. We've had so much
> trouble with the ride/handling and so many new parts along the way that it
> could have happened at any time.
>
...
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] CV joint leaking? [message #145433 is a reply to message #145429] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 21:45 |
Andrew
Messages: 213
Registered: April 2011
Location: Connecticut
Karma: 0
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| Rob Mueller wrote |
I just did a Google search for Dorman 614-004 and here's a link:
This is an OUTER CV joint boot not an inner.
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Interesting. The GMCMI parts interchange list says 614-004 for the inner, and 614-003 for the outer. O'Reilly xrefs 614-004 for a Toronado inner, just as a sanity check. I sure hope the confusion is just a mistake on the part of the amazon seller.
| Ken Henderson wrote on Mon, 03 October 2011 21:09 |
As has been mentioned, the inner CV joint boot leakage can be from several
locations:
|
I believe it is leaking from the tin can joint that you mentioned. It has slung a fair amount of grease out. Judging by the size (in the photos) of the grease packs that come with new boots, I'd say it has slung at least half of it out.
I don't want to ruin the CV joint, so I think regreasing is imperative. If I can get some silicone grease in there and patch the leak, that would be great. Far easier than replacing the boot, I think. Are those clamps removable/reusable, or will I have to cut them off?
I checked the other side, and found a few whisker blobs there as well. Maybe a dozen on the passenger side, compared to hundreds and a visibly thick buildup on the diagonal structural member on the driver side. I'm calling that one OK for now.
Thanks for the patching advice. I would be very happy to get a temporary fix in place so that I can repair it properly under better conditions.
1973 Sequoia 260 (since 2011)
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| Re: [GMCnet] CV joint leaking? [message #145436 is a reply to message #145433] |
Mon, 03 October 2011 22:07 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Silicone grease??? Lithium base is the standard. Many of us prefer
synthetics such as Valvoline Synpower (or Durablend) with MSO2. I wouldn't
consider silicone for anything for fear it would somehow find its way into
my exhaust system and destroy the O2 sensor from my EFI. :-)
I personally wouldn't worry about the amount of grease lost being "all" of
it. But if you want to put in more grease, the easiest way will be to
remove the inner axle flange bolts (6 each 12 point) and inject grease
through the 1/8" vent you'll see in the hidden cap. You could even remove
that cap to clean and regrease the joint. You DO NOT want to remove the
"tin can" (big problems lurk there). And it will be necessary to destroy
the small end clamp to remove it. The recommended replacement for that, and
the other CV joint boot clamps is ONLY a double-wrap Band-It clamp.
If you remove the 6 clamp bolts, be aware that those are prescribed for
one-time use since they're to be torqued to 70 fl-lb. Many of us DO re-use
them; if you do, be sure to apply blue Lock-Tite on reassembly. They DO
sometimes loosen, and even fall out, in use. Many tales from beside the
road due to that.
HTH,
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Mon, Oct 3, 2011 at 10:45 PM, Andrew <reynhout@quesera.com> wrote:
>
> ...
> Ken Henderson wrote on Mon, 03 October 2011 21:09
> > As has been mentioned, the inner CV joint boot leakage can be from
> several
> > locations:
>
>
> I believe it is leaking from the tin can joint that you mentioned. It has
> slung a fair amount of grease out. Judging by the size (in the photos) of
> the grease packs that come with new boots, I'd say it has slung at least
> half of it out.
>
> I don't want to ruin the CV joint, so I think regreasing is imperative. If
> I can get some silicone grease in there and patch the leak, that would be
> great. Far easier than replacing the boot, I think. Are those clamps
> removable/reusable, or will I have to cut them off?
>
> I checked the other side, and found a few whisker blobs there as well.
> Maybe a dozen on the passenger side, compared to hundreds and a visibly
> thick buildup on the diagonal structural member on the driver side. I'm
> calling that one OK for now.
>
> Thanks for the patching advice. I would be very happy to get a temporary
> fix in place so that I can repair it properly under better conditions.
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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