| [GMCnet] Front Dash Blower fan... and Front AC... [message #141492] |
Mon, 29 August 2011 08:49  |
gmc gmc
Messages: 69
Registered: May 2009
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Hi all... I have 78 refurbished.
Guess ever since I had it the front dash fan did not work. Well local shop
diagonsed it and fan was bad. He got new fan, but it work son high speed
only. They will add resistor he says to get the otehr speeds.
is that normal? did he use right part? etc...
2nd: Front motor AC no belt. he says AC pully turns. Will take $200 or so to
convert it so they can fill it etc... Should I leave it off? belt off, or
what is consensus here?
thanks
Mike D
1978
Madison, WI
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| Re: [GMCnet] Front Dash Blower fan... and Front AC... [message #141536 is a reply to message #141507] |
Mon, 29 August 2011 12:50  |
Keith V
Messages: 2337
Registered: March 2008
Location: Mounds View,MN
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| WD0AFQ wrote on Mon, 29 August 2011 10:23 |
There are already resistors in the heater box. If they are burned then I would say yes. Have them check them, right behind where the plug is located. Others here are much more knowlegable than I am.
Dan
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Adding a resister is not the solution.
Fixing the existing resistors is the correct solution!
Keith Vasilakes
Mounds View. MN
75 ex Royale GMC
ask me about MicroLevel
Cell, 763-732-3419
My427v8@hotmail.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Front Dash Blower fan... and Front AC... [message #141544 is a reply to message #141492] |
Mon, 29 August 2011 13:45 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Resitor block may be corroded by now or the GM connector that goes to it may have had Three Mile Island syndrome due to dirt and resistance causing run away heat and melt down. New ends are available and can be soldered ( spliced in) and heat shrunk. Common problem before GM went to weatherpak connectors. Also Caig industies D5 is a great antioxidant spray for such connections. I use it extensively in pro audio as well as automotive applications.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Front Dash Blower fan... and Front AC... [message #141569 is a reply to message #141549] |
Mon, 29 August 2011 16:36 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Dan,
The medium blower could be caused by the switch, the connection there, or
the connection at the resistor pack, or the resistor. I'd start at the
resistor & work backward. You know more than enough about electrons to do
that. :-)
The high blower problem: How is your combiner wired? If IAW Gene's
suggestion, leaving the isolator in place and merely connecting the combiner
to the batteries, I dunno. But if you eliminated the isolator and connected
the alternator lead to the chassis battery, the blower's working as it
should -- the isolator's no longer there to keep it from being powered by
the battery.
Ken H.
On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 3:11 PM, Dan Gregg <gregg_dan@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> The problem I have has not bothered me but here it is:
> I have a 74. Blower works on low, nothing on medium, and blows hard on
> high, with key on and engine not running. What say ye that my problem is? It
> should not run on high unless engine is running.
> Dan
> --
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Front Dash Blower fan... and Front AC... [message #141578 is a reply to message #141572] |
Mon, 29 August 2011 17:24 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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| WD0AFQ wrote on Mon, 29 August 2011 17:49 |
Ok, thanks Ken. I suspect you are right. Have only the combiner, no isolator. It just has never been a problem not having 2nd gear on the blower. I will dig around on it one of these days. It has off also and that works. I suspect it is the switch as I have tinkered around with the connector at the box before with no luck. I run it in high gear if I have it on anyway.
See you soon.
Dan
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Dan, Mike: The resistor is on the drivers side of the heater box with a 4 wire plug. Umplug and take the 2 small screws out of the resistor and take it out and look at it. If bad it is usually a burnt wire and obvious.
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: [GMCnet] Front Dash Blower fan... and Front AC... [message #141640 is a reply to message #141492] |
Tue, 30 August 2011 01:32 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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| gmc gmc wrote on Mon, 29 August 2011 08:49 |
Hi all... I have 78 refurbished.
Guess ever since I had it the front dash fan did not work. Well local shop
diagonsed it and fan was bad. He got new fan, but it work son high speed
only. They will add resistor he says to get the otehr speeds.
is that normal? did he use right part? etc...
2nd: Front motor AC no belt. he says AC pully turns. Will take $200 or so to
convert it so they can fill it etc... Should I leave it off? belt off, or
what is consensus here?
thanks
Mike D
1978
Madison, WI
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The resistor could be the problem. The fan relay could be the problem. A blown fuse could be the problem. The fan switch could be the problem. A bad connection at any of the above items could be the problem.
What needs to be done is to get out a volt meter and trace down the problem. If the guy is just guessing then chances are it is not the resistor. If the guy actually traced down the problem with a voltmeter, then replace the resistor. It is a cheap item and replaces by removing one screw. It is a 5 minute job to replace it.
If the AC pulley spins then put a belt on it. I can not imagine what the $200 for "conversion" is for unless he is preparing to charge it with R-134.
If he is going to charge it with R-134 stop right there!
Have him pull vacuum on the system as it is and verify that it is not leaking. IF THERE ARE NO LEAKS, have him screw on a couple of R-134 fittings on the charging ports. Then order 3 cans of Duracool and charge it with that.
If he will not do it, then get the Duracol and do it yourself or find one of us to help you do it.
http://www.worthingtonagparts.com/parts/view/WN-D12A06/refrigerant-duracool-12a-6-oz.-recharge-can.aspx
I'm in NW Indiana (Chicago area). If you are coming through this way I'll do it for you. Also at most GMCMI rallies, I or Emery Stora will be there to help you. There are also plenty of other GMCers out there to help you if needed.
The reasons you do not want to go with R-134 are:
1. R-134 if a poorer performing product than the original R-12
2. The entire system will need the oil drained and the system flushed. The dryer will need to be replaced as will all of the O-rings in the various connections in the system. The the oil used with R-134 is not compatible with the oil currently in the system for R-12.
3. The line pressures for R-134 are higher so the engine has to work harder and you stand a greater chance of a leak with the higher pressures used.
Duracool runs at lower pressures than R-12 or R-134. Duracool will work with whatever oil is currently in your system. So the O-ring changes and flushing are not necessary if the system has no leaks. Duracool has a higher efficiency so you will get more cooling out of it than you will get with either R-12 or R-134.
For now, put the belt on, have a vacuum pulled on it to check for leaks and we can go from there.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Front Dash Blower fan... and Front AC... [message #141698 is a reply to message #141640] |
Tue, 30 August 2011 12:13 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Mike,
The $200 quote for a professional to convert to R-134 sounds a bit low.... How much where they planning on doing/changing? To do the Job correctly you almost have to replace or clean everything in the system.
OBTW, you can still find R-12... it is just expensive. And if your system leaks, even a little, the expense continues. (Plus Al G. will be mad at you!)
| Ken Burton wrote on Mon, 29 August 2011 23:32 |
... The reasons you do not want to go with R-134 are:
1. R-134 if a poorer performing product than the original R-12
2. The entire system will need the oil drained and the system flushed. The dryer will need to be replaced as will all of the O-rings in the various connections in the system. The the oil used with R-134 is not compatible with the oil currently in the system for R-12.
3. The line pressures for R-134 are higher so the engine has to work harder and you stand a greater chance of a leak with the higher pressures used.
Duracool runs at lower pressures than R-12 or R-134. ...
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AND there is only one reason to have it converted to R-134:
You want to be able to keep paying a professional to work on it.
(Pretty much NO professional automotive AC tech will touch a system with Duracool in it. For various reasons.)
If you have ANY mechanical ability... pick up a set of gauges and convert to Duracool.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Front Dash Blower fan... and Front AC... [message #141827 is a reply to message #141698] |
Wed, 31 August 2011 09:49 |
gmc gmc
Messages: 69
Registered: May 2009
Karma: 0
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Member |
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Thanks Mike and Ken, I will start with belt and go from there. and yes if
needed Duracool sounds great.
Yes Ken will plan to do a rally sometime also. one in Midwest would be
great.
thank you so much
Mike
78
Madison WI
On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 1:13 PM, Mike Miller <m000035@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Mike,
>
> The $200 quote for a professional to convert to R-134 sounds a bit low....
> How much where they planning on doing/changing? To do the Job correctly you
> almost have to replace or clean everything in the system.
>
> OBTW, you can still find R-12... it is just expensive. And if your system
> leaks, even a little, the expense continues. (Plus Al G. will be mad at
> you!)
>
> Ken Burton wrote on Mon, 29 August 2011 23:32
> > ... The reasons you do not want to go with R-134 are:
> >
> > 1. R-134 if a poorer performing product than the original R-12
> > 2. The entire system will need the oil drained and the system flushed.
> The dryer will need to be replaced as will all of the O-rings in the
> various connections in the system. The the oil used with R-134 is not
> compatible with the oil currently in the system for R-12.
> > 3. The line pressures for R-134 are higher so the engine has to work
> harder and you stand a greater chance of a leak with the higher pressures
> used.
> >
> > Duracool runs at lower pressures than R-12 or R-134. ...
>
>
> AND there is only one reason to have it converted to R-134:
> You want to be able to keep paying a professional to work on it.
>
> (Pretty much NO professional automotive AC tech will touch a system with
> Duracool in it. For various reasons.)
>
> If you have ANY mechanical ability... pick up a set of gauges and convert
> to Duracool.
> --
> Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
> (#1)'73 26' exPainted D. -- (#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23'
> Birchaven Side Bath
> http://m000035.blogspot.com
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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>
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| Non gmc [message #142016 is a reply to message #141496] |
Thu, 01 September 2011 17:41 |
bukzin
Messages: 840
Registered: April 2004
Location: North California
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[quote title=gmc gmc wrote on Mon, 29 August 2011 07:06]ok, yes neighbor was in charge of security there, Dale. Is adding resistor
the solution I can tell shop to do it?
thx Dan,
Mike
Will FMCA return here annually? or someday again maybe? That was busy week
for me as I am in the student housing biz
>
_______________________________________________
I am too.
Have a look at ChicoForRent.com
Seems we are both in party towns.
Bukzin
1977 Palm Beach
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