| [GMCnet] Sully [message #140202] |
Sat, 20 August 2011 12:07  |
SergeL
Messages: 169
Registered: January 2011
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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After looking at the photos of your restoration in progress I noticed the
work you did on your front and back inside plastic caps, what material did
you use to patch the cracks? Mine are in really bad shape and I have had
previous input but since yours are completed and look so good, I would like
your input.
Thanks in advance,
Serge
1973 GMC
Deming, NM
He who expects no gratitude shall never be disapointed
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| Re: [GMCnet] Sully [message #140218 is a reply to message #140202] |
Sat, 20 August 2011 14:00  |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Thanks Serge!
Mine are only repaired to structural stability. They are NOT repaired to a
paint able state and they do not look very good in person(my opinion). It
would be very difficult to repair the headliner cracks to where they could
be painted due to the factory texture on the visible surface. It could be
done but after dressing the visible side of the cracks, the whole headliner
would need to be re-textured to look perfect. I decided that my caps would
be repaired and reinforced where needed and then I plan to have an
upholstery shop cover them with a foam backed pleather type material which
will look good and also help with cabin noise abatement. I used a couple of
different products. I started with fiberglass matt and 3m two part 40
second adhesive which is strong and adheres well but cures far too quickly
and is very expensive at about $45 retail per container(used a full tube on
the front headliner cap) With the cap prepped and patch pieces cut, myself
and a helper could not move around with one applying the adhesive and the
other applying the patches without the glue "kicking" in the mix nozzle
several times. The mix nozzles are about 50 cents each. I remembered a post
by someone else on the gmc site about repairing the caps using abs pipe
cement. When I did the rear cap I used the abs glue and it afforded much
more working time then the 40 sec adhesive and the final result was ok but
not ideal as the abs cement is mostly solvent and when dry it does not leave
much resin film to the fiberglass. I suppose one could re apply more glue
when dry and build it up but if I were to do it again I would follow this
sequence.
1 thoroughly clean the part on both sides with detergent and scrub brush. (i
used a chemical based commercial wheel and tire cleaner and it worked
awesome)
2 rough up all damaged areas with 40 grit paper extending back away from
damaged area(larger damage,prep further back to the parallel sides)
3 drill small hole in line with but just ahead of where the crack stops to
prevent spread
4 support damaged part so it sits in its natural shape with no stress near
areas that are being repaired
5 tack the crack with soldering iron or plastic welder to prevent movement
while applying resin and mat
6 seal the crack from the underside with 2 inch masking tape(visible when
installed side) to prevent resin migration to the interior
7 clean repair area with wax and grease remover ( i use ppg dx 330 )
8 mix and apply fiberglass resin to repair area and cover with two layers of
saturated fiberglass mat for simple contour areas or mesh for
complex/compound curved areas
Once this has set flip it over and plastic weld crack(the fiberglass on the
back helps prevent distortion from plastic welding) then contour the welded
area by sanding. Plastic welding is the best and strongest method for
repairing the plastic but is it not easy or simple as fiberglass repair and
a heated air type welder will set you back close to $300. Fiberglass resin
and mat bonds well to the abs panel, has similar flexibility when cured and
is much cheaper and easier to obtain then a decent plastic welder and
welding rod. After sanding you will still need to add texture and then paint
it. I did not see the payoff for all the additional finish work and wanted a
softer interior anyway so I did the glue and reinforce method I mentioned at
the beginning. The front roof cap is heavy and will be bumped and handled
much more frequently than the rear cap so I would use fiberglass resin and
mat there. If you are meticulous about lining up the cracks you may be happy
with the cosmetic result on the inside and if so you can go ahead and paint
it. I have been called anal by many and my eye would be drawn to the
remaining hair line seam of the crack forever and it would drive me nuts but
to each his own. The back cap which does not see as much contact i think the
abs glue and glass mat will work fine but if I had fiberglass resin handy i
would use it instead.
Sully
77 Royale
On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 10:07 AM, Serge Leduc <greatmoments60@hotmail.com>wrote:
> After looking at the photos of your restoration in progress I noticed the
> work you did on your front and back inside plastic caps, what material did
> you use to patch the cracks? Mine are in really bad shape and I have had
> previous input but since yours are completed and look so good, I would like
> your input.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Serge
> 1973 GMC
> Deming, NM
>
>
> He who expects no gratitude shall never be disapointed
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Sully [message #140219 is a reply to message #140218] |
Sat, 20 August 2011 14:22 |
SergeL
Messages: 169
Registered: January 2011
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Thanks Sully,
Although probably not as bad as you, all I would see from now on would be
the cracks, what can I say? I was born that way, drives my wife completely
nuts. : )
Serge
1973 GMC
Deming, NM
He who expects no gratitude shall never be disapointed
-------Original Message-------
From: Todd Sullivan
Date: 08/20/11 13:00:54
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Sully
Thanks Serge!
Mine are only repaired to structural stability. They are NOT repaired to a
paint able state and they do not look very good in person(my opinion). It
would be very difficult to repair the headliner cracks to where they could
be painted due to the factory texture on the visible surface. It could be
done but after dressing the visible side of the cracks, the whole headliner
would need to be re-textured to look perfect. I decided that my caps would
be repaired and reinforced where needed and then I plan to have an
upholstery shop cover them with a foam backed pleather type material which
will look good and also help with cabin noise abatement. I used a couple of
different products. I started with fiberglass matt and 3m two part 40
second adhesive which is strong and adheres well but cures far too quickly
and is very expensive at about $45 retail per container(used a full tube on
the front headliner cap) With the cap prepped and patch pieces cut, myself
and a helper could not move around with one applying the adhesive and the
other applying the patches without the glue "kicking" in the mix nozzle
several times. The mix nozzles are about 50 cents each. I remembered a post
by someone else on the gmc site about repairing the caps using abs pipe
cement. When I did the rear cap I used the abs glue and it afforded much
more working time then the 40 sec adhesive and the final result was ok but
not ideal as the abs cement is mostly solvent and when dry it does not leave
much resin film to the fiberglass. I suppose one could re apply more glue
when dry and build it up but if I were to do it again I would follow this
sequence.
1 thoroughly clean the part on both sides with detergent and scrub brush. (i
used a chemical based commercial wheel and tire cleaner and it worked
awesome)
2 rough up all damaged areas with 40 grit paper extending back away from
damaged area(larger damage,prep further back to the parallel sides)
3 drill small hole in line with but just ahead of where the crack stops to
prevent spread
4 support damaged part so it sits in its natural shape with no stress near
areas that are being repaired
5 tack the crack with soldering iron or plastic welder to prevent movement
while applying resin and mat
6 seal the crack from the underside with 2 inch masking tape(visible when
installed side) to prevent resin migration to the interior
7 clean repair area with wax and grease remover ( i use ppg dx 330 )
8 mix and apply fiberglass resin to repair area and cover with two layers of
saturated fiberglass mat for simple contour areas or mesh for
complex/compound curved areas
Once this has set flip it over and plastic weld crack(the fiberglass on the
back helps prevent distortion from plastic welding) then contour the welded
area by sanding. Plastic welding is the best and strongest method for
repairing the plastic but is it not easy or simple as fiberglass repair and
a heated air type welder will set you back close to $300. Fiberglass resin
and mat bonds well to the abs panel, has similar flexibility when cured and
is much cheaper and easier to obtain then a decent plastic welder and
welding rod. After sanding you will still need to add texture and then paint
it. I did not see the payoff for all the additional finish work and wanted a
softer interior anyway so I did the glue and reinforce method I mentioned at
the beginning. The front roof cap is heavy and will be bumped and handled
much more frequently than the rear cap so I would use fiberglass resin and
mat there. If you are meticulous about lining up the cracks you may be happy
with the cosmetic result on the inside and if so you can go ahead and paint
it. I have been called anal by many and my eye would be drawn to the
remaining hair line seam of the crack forever and it would drive me nuts but
to each his own. The back cap which does not see as much contact i think the
abs glue and glass mat will work fine but if I had fiberglass resin handy i
would use it instead.
Sully
77 Royale
On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 10:07 AM, Serge Leduc <greatmoments60@hotmail
com>wrote:
> After looking at the photos of your restoration in progress I noticed the
> work you did on your front and back inside plastic caps, what material did
> you use to patch the cracks? Mine are in really bad shape and I have had
> previous input but since yours are completed and look so good, I would
like
> your input.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Serge
> 1973 GMC
> Deming, NM
>
>
> He who expects no gratitude shall never be disapointed
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] Sully [message #140230 is a reply to message #140218] |
Sat, 20 August 2011 15:54 |
Don A
Messages: 895
Registered: October 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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What some others have done is grind up some ABS pipe to add the chips as filler in the ABS cement.
<<<<When I did the rear cap I used the abs glue and it afforded much more working time then the 40 sec adhesive and the final result was ok but not ideal as the abs cement is mostly solvent and when dry it does not leave much resin film to the fiberglass >>>>
Don Adams Dallas, TX
'76 26' Glenbrook, '90 Sidekick
rebuilt by R Archer, powered by J Bounds, Koba
[IMG]http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6109/G2.jpg[/IMG]
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