| Re: [GMCnet] Isolator/combiner [message #137976] |
Mon, 08 August 2011 03:26 |
Ek_Lektro
Messages: 167
Registered: March 2011
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Thanks Ken, Johnny and Dan for all your info... and sorry for the delayed response...
No sooner did i post my question about the engine battery situation, than i got hit with a completely different electrical problem!
The Magnum inverter/charger was suddenly shutting down on anything but the lightest of loads,...
Turned out that the Perko heavy-duty marine battery switch (manual combiner between the 2 discrete house battery banks) had started to melt; and so I took the opportunity to inspect, clean and tighten up everything as i was searching for where the bad connection was...
Easier said than done, with the (6) Trojan T145's crammed into tight spaces, and all that 4/0 cable... well,... 2 days later.... ay yi yi!
For the record, we've really been loving the kilowatt solar install, with all the reserve battery power to run the studio through the night... Its been working flawless the past 2 years. This was the first real kink, and a direct result of some rather extreme use: accidentally running the water heater off the inverter, with less-than-ideal battery voltage, and only one battery bank engaged... the perfect storm! I say "accidentally" 'cause we DID start the generator... however, it was just freewheeling, 'cause the shore power plug wasn't plugged into the generator! Gotta get a transfer switch to avoid this mistake in the future.
Then again, the water heater works fine off the 2800 watt inverter if all of the right conditions are met: 1) if its daytime, with 40 or more amps of solar charge happening to compensate, and 2) if we gang the 2 house battery banks together. Same with running the air conditioner for a few hours at the peak of the day. But anyway,... with anything less than these ideal conditions, i think we found the limit to our extreme inverter use.. and a melted battery switch.
While we're at it, i think its time to find some better ways to connect 3 runs of 4/0 to a single battery post, rather than these dang post extenders... Anybody have a source for heavy duty terminal blocks?
Back to the topic at hand....
> If the engine won't spin right after a long drive but will an hour later, I'd have a look at the starter itself.? Often a dying starter hasn't sufficient torque to spin a hot and tight engine, but will spin it just fine when it cools down.? Also, a hot engine will sometimes detonate (ping) while cranking, which slows the starter drastically.
That's pretty interesting, thanks, and i had no idea... I've been carrying a new spare starter around ever since i went down to Mexico; so maybe i'll just put it on and see if it helps...
> On top of that I question where the ground cable for the engine battery is connected. It must be connected to a bolt on the engine (NOT THE FRAME).
ah ha.. i'm gonna check that in the morning...
> Check the voltage at the isolator with the engine running. It should be around 14.7 at the center terminal and 14.0 on the top and bottom terminals. If you are getting these readings then the isolator is doing it's job and the problem is elsewhere. If you are not getting 14.7 at the center terminal of the isolator, turn off the engine and check the temperature of the pulley on the alternator.
Thanks Ken,... I remember Jim Bounds guiding me through this test over the phone, when i first got the coach back in '99! Couldn't remember back that far for the magic numbers, 14.7 / 14.0... copy that.
> Between this and Johnny's post you have a lot of things to check.
That's for sure...
OK, thanks much!
Greg
SolarSonic '78 Eleganza II / Los Angeles
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