Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Isolation pads
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Isolation pads [message #134192 is a reply to message #134179] |
Mon, 11 July 2011 15:12   |
jayrabe
Messages: 509
Registered: June 2009
Location: Portland, OR
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I agree Shotwell's procedure is great, esp the pix, but one thing it lacked was any discussion of the body mount bolts. There's another pdf procedure floating around (and I think it's the one that was printed out and included in the box of pads I got from JimK) that does mention them, "4 on each side plus the donut assy on each corner of the coach," that must be loosened/removed before trying to jack up the body off the frame. But being a non-mechanic newbie it took me two days or crawling around to figure out what/where they were. There is mention in Shotwell's pdf of the "U-bracket/J-bracket" assemblies, two on each side, one just in front of the rear wheels, right under the door on my 26', the other a bit behind the front wheel. Please please correct me if I'm wrong, but as near as I can figure, the bolts holding the U/J-brackets are in fact also the "body mount bolts." One thing I'm a bit less sure of is: there are two bolts holding the J-bracket to the frame, and two stu
ds with nuts coming vertically from the floor of the coach and holding the U-bracket. Seems like it's only necessary to remove the nuts from the vertical studs, and the bolts holding the J-bracket to the frame can remain undisturbed. Right?
I'm just getting started on the procedure myself. That is, I'm in the mode of spraying PB Blaster on the body mount bolts a couple of times a day. Wire-brushed the threads on the vertical studs, and bought a 15/16" socket for the rear donuts. Thinking I can leave the front donuts alone. Any comment on that? Anyway, got two of the body mount nuts off right away, but used too little patience waiting for the PBB to work and too much torque and managed to start two others spinning. Will be waiting until the remaining 4 come off with my fingers - well maybe not quite... I have saved a bunch of emails from the net on how to deal with the ones that are spinning in the wood. We'll see how that goes after another couple of days of PBB.
If you're just doing this for the first time, be VERY GENTLE torqueing the nuts on the vertical body mount bolts to avoid breaking them loose from the wood!
Jay Rabe
76 PB
Portland, OR
> From: powerjon@chartermi.net
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 12:41:29 -0400
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Isolation pads
>
> Bill,
>
> See: http://www.bdub.net/Isolation_Pad_Replacement.pdf
>
> Regards,
>
> J.R. Wright
> GMC GreatLaker
> 78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
> 1975 Avion (Under Reconstruction)
> Michigan
>
> On Jul 11, 2011, at 12:23 PM, William Shourt wrote:
>
> > Could some one please steer me to a guide on installing isolation
> > pads. Thanks
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Isolation pads [message #134198 is a reply to message #134192] |
Mon, 11 July 2011 16:26 |
 |
Hardie Johnson
Messages: 483
Registered: January 2004
Location: Raleigh NC
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| jayrabe wrote on Mon, 11 July 2011 16:12 |
I agree Shotwell's procedure is great, esp the pix, but one thing it lacked was any discussion of the body mount bolts. <> I'm just getting started on the procedure myself. That is, I'm in the mode of spraying PB Blaster on the body mount bolts a couple of times a day. Wire-brushed the threads on the vertical studs, and bought a 15/16" socket for the rear donuts. <> If you're just doing this for the first time, be VERY GENTLE torqueing the nuts on the vertical body mount bolts to avoid breaking them loose from the wood!
Jay Rabe
<>
|
PB Blaster is the good lube, but I've had more success with Kano Labs AeroKroil as a penetrant (buy it online). Good advice on the way to do the bolts, especially wire brushing the threads beforehand.
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Isolation pads [message #134213 is a reply to message #134192] |
Mon, 11 July 2011 18:36 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
G'day,
Info out of a magazine has been published here noting that transmission
fluid mixed with acetone was good or nearly as good as AeroKroil and
cheaper. I found that to be especially interesting as a gallon of AeroKroil
here was over $200!
Someone commented that the cut slots in the bottom of the carriage bolts
that hold the body on to the frame with a Dremel tool.
Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion-The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion-Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Jay Rabe
I'm in the mode of spraying PB Blaster on the body mount bolts a couple of
times a day.
Anyway, got two of the body mount nuts off right away, but used too little
patience waiting for the PBB to work and too much torque and managed to
start two others spinning.
Jay Rabe
76 PB
Portland, OR
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Isolation pads [message #134215 is a reply to message #134213] |
Mon, 11 July 2011 18:45 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Y'All ARE familiar with nut splitters, aren't you?
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&sugexp=esqb,ratio%3D4,depth%3D20&cp=7&gs_id=1&xhr=t&q=nut+splitter&qe=bnV0IHNwbA& amp;qesig=x5cX5bfV1vCdzeZd1oAPgQ&pkc=AFgZ2tnjnpMbOnkFWrTfqF2x08chCtHt_x4nIHqMjvomhPzLRJyfP_3Soikqzp1v-0bqcsZHwi4yZR-hpd4NClhEzg5yK-QVNg&safe=o ff&nord=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&biw=853&bih=544&ion=1&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=10935842070944718917&sa=X&am p;ei=BYobTu7NG8up0AGf2MzqBw&sqi=2&ved=0CEcQ8wIwAg
http://goo.gl/dv4jm
(Couldn't resist that URL) :-)
Just put the loop over the nut, tighten the screw, & the cut-open nut
pops off. HF has them too.
Ken H.
On Mon, Jul 11, 2011 at 7:36 PM, Rob Mueller
...
> Someone commented that the cut slots in the bottom of the carriage bolts
> that hold the body on to the frame with a Dremel tool.
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Isolation pads [message #134232 is a reply to message #134192] |
Mon, 11 July 2011 20:44 |
 |
JShot
Messages: 485
Registered: October 2006
Location: NW Ohio
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| jayrabe wrote on Mon, 11 July 2011 16:12 |
There is mention in Shotwell's pdf of the "U-bracket/J-bracket" assemblies, two on each side, one just in front of the rear wheels, right under the door on my 26', the other a bit behind the front wheel. Please please correct me if I'm wrong, but as near as I can figure, the bolts holding the U/J-brackets are in fact also the "body mount bolts." One thing I'm a bit less sure of is: there are two bolts holding the J-bracket to the frame, and two studs with nuts coming vertically from the floor of the coach and holding the U-bracket. Seems like it's only necessary to remove the nuts from the vertical studs, and the bolts holding the J-bracket to the frame can remain undisturbed. Right?
|
Jay,
Right - as long as you can either get the nuts loose on the vertical U bracket bolts, cut them off, and/or have access to the carriage head of the vertical bolts from inside the coach.
Some of these coaches are easy - just Kroil the nuts and they'll come off. Others are rusted on so badly, there's no way you'll keep the carriage head bolts from turing.
The "J" bracket, as I call it, is bolted to the side of the frame with two good-sized bolts/nuts - it's really an "upside down J". The "U" bracket is suspended from the coach body and held in place by two vertical carriage head bolts (accessible from within the coach - usually).
The coach body cannot, theoretically, move upward because the upside down J bracket is hooked over the U bracket (with a thin pad between them). If you're going to move the coach body upwards any amount, away from the frame, something has to give. But that's the purpose of the J & U - to hold the body where it's supposed to be on the frame.
Because of the configuration of our Center Kitchen '78 Royale, I couldn't get to some of the carriage bolts - it was much easier for me to unbolt the J bracket from the frame and not have to deal with the U bracket hanging from the coach at all.
As I mentioned in the pdf file, I had four new J brackets made, with the 'longest' part of the J made an inch longer. It was that, or try to elongate the holes in the frame so the original holes in the J bracket would still line up with the frame holes. They were off by a good 1/2".
After all of the pads were in place, I installed the thin pad in the U bracket, hooked the new J bracket in place, with it's longer side against the frame, and marked where the holes had to be drilled in the new J bracket to match the existing holes in the frame. I then drilled the new holes in the J bracket, and bolted the brackets to the frame. JWID & HTH.
If you need a pic or two, I'll be glad to take some tomorrow and post them.
John
John Shotwell
Ridgeville Corners, OH
78 Royale Center Kitchen
[Updated on: Mon, 11 July 2011 20:45] Report message to a moderator |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] "Car Hauler" modifications [message #134244 is a reply to message #134237] |
Mon, 11 July 2011 21:15 |
|
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Dolph,
Here's a link to Randy Johnson's Mini Hauler:
http://www.gmcmidwestclassics.org/Web%20pages/randymini.htm
JimB is also building a GMC for a band with a rear hatch.
http://www.gmccoop.com/dailypose.htm
You'll have to scroll backwards to find pictures of it.
Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion-The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion-Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: Dolph Santorine
Hi All:
A few months back I started a thread about towing with a GMC. I think I have
that part understood.
Someone forwarded some pics of a GMC that had been converted to open at the
rear and hold a car inside the rear of the coach.
While it didn't exactly strike me initially, it does now, and I was
wondering if the community would share their thoughts, pictures and ideas.
Thanks again!
Dolph
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Isolation pads [message #134258 is a reply to message #134232] |
Mon, 11 July 2011 23:32 |
jayrabe
Messages: 509
Registered: June 2009
Location: Portland, OR
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
John,
Great pictures in your file, as I said. Thanks so much for taking the time to document the process so completely.
It was pretty clear why you chose to make new J-brackets. But my question is whether it would it be a workable alternative, if you do get the nuts loose from the vertical studs holding the U-bracket, to leave the J-bracket attached as-is and just not bolt down the U-bracket all the way, that is to leave 1/2" or whatever gap? Still you'd snug it tight against the pad/J-bracket so the body-holding should be intact.
Jay 76 PB Portland, OR
> John Shotwell wrote:> Jay,> Right - as long as you can either get the nuts loose on the vertical U bracket bolts, cut them off, and/or have access to the carriage head of the vertical bolts from inside the coach.
> Some of these coaches are easy - just Kroil the nuts and they'll come off. Others are rusted on so badly, there's no way you'll keep the carriage head bolts from turing.
> The "J" bracket, as I call it, is bolted to the side of the frame with two good-sized bolts/nuts - it's really an "upside down J". The "U" bracket is suspended from the coach body and held in place by two vertical carriage head bolts (accessible from within the coach - usually).
> The coach body cannot, theoretically, move upward because the upside down J bracket is hooked over the U bracket (with a thin pad between them). If you're going to move the coach body upwards any amount, away from the frame, something has to give. But that's the purpose of the J & U - to hold the body where it's supposed to be on the frame.
> Because of the configuration of our Center Kitchen '78 Royale, I couldn't get to some of the carriage bolts - it was much easier for me to unbolt the J bracket from the frame and not have to deal with the U bracket hanging from the coach at all.
> As I mentioned in the pdf file, I had four new J brackets made, with the 'longest' part of the J made an inch longer. It was that, or try to elongate the holes in the frame so the original holes in the J bracket would still line up with the frame holes. They were off by a good 1/2".
> After all of the pads were in place, I installed the thin pad in the U bracket, hooked the new J bracket in place, with it's longer side against the frame, and marked where the holes had to be drilled in the new J bracket to match the existing holes in the frame. I then drilled the new holes in the J bracket, and bolted the brackets to the frame. JWID & HTH.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Isolation pads [message #134267 is a reply to message #134213] |
Tue, 12 July 2011 05:58 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
and there is this
http://goo.gl/umlND
by jr
gene
On Mon, Jul 11, 2011 at 4:36 PM, Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au>wrote:
> G'day,
>
> Info out of a magazine has been published here noting that transmission
> fluid mixed with acetone was good or nearly as good as AeroKroil and
> cheaper. I found that to be especially interesting as a gallon of AeroKroil
> here was over $200!
>
> Someone commented that the cut slots in the bottom of the carriage bolts
> that hold the body on to the frame with a Dremel tool.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> Sydney, Australia
> AUS '75 Avion-The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion-Double Trouble TZE365V100426
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
> [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Jay Rabe
>
> I'm in the mode of spraying PB Blaster on the body mount bolts a couple of
> times a day.
>
> Anyway, got two of the body mount nuts off right away, but used too little
> patience waiting for the PBB to work and too much torque and managed to
> start two others spinning.
>
> Jay Rabe
> 76 PB
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Isolation pads [message #134270 is a reply to message #134213] |
Tue, 12 July 2011 06:49 |
|
Hardie Johnson
Messages: 483
Registered: January 2004
Location: Raleigh NC
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| Robert Mueller wrote on Mon, 11 July 2011 19:36 |
G'day,
Info out of a magazine has been published here noting that transmission fluid mixed with acetone was good or nearly as good as AeroKroil and cheaper. I found that to be especially interesting as a gallon of AeroKroil here was over $200!
Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
<>
|
The is an episode of "King of Queens" where the father-in-law, who is a cheap guy, looks at a jar of lemon pepper and remarks, "What's in here? Lemon,salt, pepper? We could make this stuff!" The famous penetrant mix is like that. If you want to go to all that trouble, go right ahead. Myself, I'll buy a spray can from Kano every three or four years.
"buys the 20 oz supersize"
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] "Car Hauler" modifications WAS:Isolation pads [message #134272 is a reply to message #134237] |
Tue, 12 July 2011 07:02 |
|
Hardie Johnson
Messages: 483
Registered: January 2004
Location: Raleigh NC
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| Dolph Santorine wrote on Mon, 11 July 2011 21:52 |
<>A few months back I started a thread about towing with a GMC. I think I have that part understood. Someone forwarded some pics of a GMC that had been converted to open at the rear and hold a car inside the rear of the coach. While it didn't exactly strike me initially, it does now, and I was wondering if the community would share their thoughts, pictures and ideas.<>
|
I have always loved that idea, and I am modelling it from a Hess GMC and an old Lotus Super7 kit, but it does not seem practical in real life. A regular car is not going to fit between the wheel wells, so you have to elevate higher. The space below these ramps could be storage, but you can't get to it unless you move the stored vehicle. Tie down is going to be a challenge, too. A go cart might fit okay. An extra ton or so is likely going to overload the coach, too.
Dolph, BTW, you have started your new thread by changing the title on a topic about isolation pads. You probably are not aware that the online forum and many email packages ignore the subject line and sort things out by message number. As a result, your emails end up buried in another topic and may be ignored. The solution is to always start a new email for a new topic.
"We call it hijacking where I come from"
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] "Car Hauler" modifications WAS:Isolation pads [message #134278 is a reply to message #134272] |
Tue, 12 July 2011 08:20 |
Dolph Santorine
Messages: 1236
Registered: April 2011
Location: Wheeling, WV
Karma: -41
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Hardie:
I didn't realize how this particular listserv software worked. Thanks for the heads up.
Next time, I'll just hijack the address.......
Dolph
On Jul 12, 2011, at 8:02 AM, Hardie Johnson wrote:
>
>
> Dolph Santorine wrote on Mon, 11 July 2011 21:52
>> <>A few months back I started a thread about towing with a GMC. I think I have that part understood. Someone forwarded some pics of a GMC that had been converted to open at the rear and hold a car inside the rear of the coach. While it didn't exactly strike me initially, it does now, and I was wondering if the community would share their thoughts, pictures and ideas.<>
>
> I have always loved that idea, and I am modelling it from a Hess GMC and an old Lotus Super7 kit, but it does not seem practical in real life. A regular car is not going to fit between the wheel wells, so you have to elevate higher. The space below these ramps could be storage, but you can't get to it unless you move the stored vehicle. Tie down is going to be a challenge, too. A go cart might fit okay. An extra ton or so is likely going to overload the coach, too.
> Dolph, BTW, you have started your new thread by changing the title on a topic about isolation pads. You probably are not aware that the online forum and many email packages ignore the subject line and sort things out by message number. As a result, your emails end up buried in another topic and may be ignored. The solution is to always start a new email for a new topic.
>
> "We call it hijacking where I come from"
> --
> Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
> 1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
> Raleigh NC
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Isolation pads [message #134285 is a reply to message #134198] |
Tue, 12 July 2011 08:47 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I never found anything Blaster wouldn't loosen, but based on posts here, I picked up a littlecan of Kroil the other day. I figure, what one doesn't get, the other will. And a close look at the intake bolts on the 455, particularly the ones by the crossover, I'm eventually gonna need one or the other.
--johnny
--- On Mon, 7/11/11, Hardie Johnson <hardie.j@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Hardie Johnson <hardie.j@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Isolation pads
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Date: Monday, July 11, 2011, 9:26 PM
jayrabe wrote on Mon, 11 July 2011 16:12
> I agree Shotwell's procedure is great, esp the pix, but one thing it lacked was any discussion of the body mount bolts. <> I'm just getting started on the procedure myself. That is, I'm in the mode of spraying PB Blaster on the body mount bolts a couple of times a day. Wire-brushed the threads on the vertical studs, and bought a 15/16" socket for the rear donuts. <> If you're just doing this for the first time, be VERY GENTLE torqueing the nuts on the vertical body mount bolts to avoid breaking them loose from the wood!
> Jay Rabe
> <>
PB Blaster is the good lube, but I've had more success with Kano Labs AeroKroil as a penetrant (buy it online). Good advice on the way to do the bolts, especially wire brushing the threads beforehand.
--
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
|
|
|
|
Goto Forum:
Current Time: Sun Sep 29 16:37:23 CDT 2024
Total time taken to generate the page: 0.01338 seconds
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
