| Bad? "new" ball joint [message #130970] |
Sun, 19 June 2011 21:34  |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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Upon inspecting a coach for driving issues I found lower ball joints that was obviously recently installed. When I compared both lower joints I found one I believe to be a Moog cause it had yellow paint on it. The other joint did not and had a darker color bottom cap leading me to think they were different mfg. Initally I found the offbrand? joints` grease fitting was loose and fell out when I touched it. It has a 45* fitting and will not tighten in place. I removed the joint to find the threads stripped. Closer inspection found the threads were way to long on the zerk compared to the hole in the joint. I then removed the other joint to compare. Its zerk has shorter threads than the offbrand? but still to long to use in the offbrand?? I found the casting to be quite a bit thinner on the offbrand? compared to the Moog.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=5808
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: [GMCnet] Bad? "new" ball joint [message #130976 is a reply to message #130970] |
Sun, 19 June 2011 21:49  |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Chuck,
Just a few years ago we heard of a rash of incidents of new ball
joints not accepting grease. Seems the Zerks' threads were too long
and bore against the ball. I think that was even with Moog's. Sounds
like you've encountered the same thing -- plus more.
Ken H.
-
On Sun, Jun 19, 2011 at 10:34 PM, Charles Boyd wrote:
>
>
> Upon inspecting a coach for driving issues I found lower ball joints that was obviously recently installed. When I compared both lower joints I found one I believe to be a Moog cause it had yellow paint on it. The other joint did not and had a darker color bottom cap leading me to think they were different mfg. Initally I found the offbrand? joints` grease fitting was loose and fell out when I touched it. It has a 45* fitting and will not tighten in place. I removed the joint to find the threads stripped. Closer inspection found the threads were way to long on the zerk compared to the hole in the joint. I then removed the other joint to compare. Its zerk has shorter threads than the offbrand? but still to long to use in the offbrand?? I found the casting to be quite a bit thinner on the offbrand? compared to the Moog.
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=5808
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Bad? "new" ball joint [message #130983 is a reply to message #130980] |
Sun, 19 June 2011 22:19 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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[quote title=Robert Mueller wrote on Sun, 19 June 2011 23:03]Chuck,
Is it possible that the "bad" ball joint is for a Toronado?
BTW don't toss the rubber boot "bad" ball joint, AFAIK you can't buy them.
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Rob, I believe the taper is different on the toro and Eldo joints? These both had the same taper and fit the knuckle nicely.
Check your inbox for the link to the boots.
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: [GMCnet] Bad? "new" ball joint [message #131036 is a reply to message #130983] |
Mon, 20 June 2011 07:15 |
Steven Ferguson
Messages: 3447
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Charles,
They both look like MOOG replacements. The ones for the autos will not fit
for the reasons stated by Rob. Incorrect zerks are a common problem and
once bottomed out, they will not accept grease. I would bet that the
mechanic that did that install stripped the replacement zerk and made a
substitution.
I have never found any ball joints other than those made by MOOG. Even the
Car Quest replacements are MOOGs, repackaged.
On Sun, Jun 19, 2011 at 8:19 PM, Charles Boyd <covered-wagon@comcast.net>wrote:
>
>
> [quote title=Robert Mueller wrote on Sun, 19 June 2011 23:03]Chuck,
>
> Is it possible that the "bad" ball joint is for a Toronado?
>
> BTW don't toss the rubber boot "bad" ball joint, AFAIK you can't buy them.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> USAussie - Downunder
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
>
>
>
>
>
> Rob, I believe the taper is different on the toro and Eldo joints? These
> both had the same taper and fit the knuckle nicely.
> Check your inbox for the link to the boots.
>
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont by Midas
> East Tennessee
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Steve Ferguson
Sierra Vista, AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] Bad? "new" ball joint [message #131062 is a reply to message #131052] |
Mon, 20 June 2011 09:41 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Chuck,
I was thinking if there are any threads left in the ball joint maybe a
metric 6mm zerk would thread in and stay?
http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-metric-grease-fittings-67569.html
To cut off the bottom thread of a zerk these would work well:
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=456
I bought some at Lowes when I was in the US of A.
I remember when the problem of the too long zerk fittings was raised on the
GMCnet. I took the zerks out of the upper and lower ball joints on The Blue
Streak and measured the length of their threads and the depth of the hole in
the ball joints to make sure none of them bottomed. The ball joints on
Double Trouble all take grease easily so I have assumed they're OK.
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Charles Boyd
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 11:53 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Bad? "new" ball joint
Steve: That would make sense. The good joint had the zerk bottomed against
the joint (I`ll check that). In the pics I found of New joints some show
yellow paint, some don`t, but all show the zerk not screwed down against the
joint. So if you get a new joint and the zerk is not screwed all the way
down, leave it alone???
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/961
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOO0/K6215.oap?ck=Search_k6215_-1_1
016&keyword=k6215
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=NCP2601392_03074
51647&An=0
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont by Midas
East Tennessee
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Bad? "new" ball joint [message #131064 is a reply to message #131062] |
Mon, 20 June 2011 09:51 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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[quote title=Robert Mueller wrote on Mon, 20 June 2011 10:41]Chuck,
I was thinking if there are any threads left in the ball joint maybe a
metric 6mm zerk would thread in and stay?
Rob: a 6mm fell in the hole and an 8mm might work with a little help from a bottom tap but I don`t have a 45* 8mm. I`m replacing that joint.
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: [GMCnet] Bad? "new" ball joint [message #131235 is a reply to message #131052] |
Tue, 21 June 2011 08:47 |
Steven Ferguson
Messages: 3447
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Tighten the zerk until it is snug, do not go past that point. When I send
rebuilt units out, I leave them barely snugged so the customer can point it
to where he can access it easiest. Never necessary to tighten them all the
way. If the old ones were good, don't hesitate to reuse them if the
replacements have a longer threaded area.
On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 6:52 AM, Charles Boyd <covered-wagon@comcast.net>wrote:
>
>
> [quote title=Steven Ferguson wrote on Mon, 20 June 2011 08:15]Charles,
> They both look like MOOG replacements. The ones for the autos will not
> fit
> for the reasons stated by Rob. Incorrect zerks are a common problem and
> once bottomed out, they will not accept grease. I would bet that the
> mechanic that did that install stripped the replacement zerk and made a
> substitution.
> I have never found any ball joints other than those made by MOOG. Even
> the
> Car Quest replacements are MOOGs, repackaged.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Steve: That would make sense. The good joint had the zerk bottomed
> against the joint (I`ll check that). In the pics I found of New joints some
> show yellow paint, some don`t, but all show the zerk not screwed down
> against the joint. So if you get a new joint and the zerk is not screwed all
> the way down, leave it alone???
> http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/961
>
> http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOO0/K6215.oap?ck=Search_k6215_-1_1016&keyword=k6215
>
> https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=NCP2601392_0307451647&An=0
>
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont by Midas
> East Tennessee
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Steve Ferguson
Sierra Vista, AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] Bad? "new" ball joint [message #131244 is a reply to message #131235] |
Tue, 21 June 2011 10:09 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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[quote title=Steven Ferguson wrote on Tue, 21 June 2011 09:47]Tighten the zerk until it is snug, do not go past that point. When I send
rebuilt units out, I leave them barely snugged so the customer can point it
to where he can access it easiest. Never necessary to tighten them all the
way. If the old ones were good, don't hesitate to reuse them if the
replacements have a longer threaded area.
Thank you Steve. I did remove the zerk from the "good" joint and saw that the end of the zerk was mashed as it seemed to be bottomed out also even with the shorter threads. I removed 2 threads off the zerk and replaced and checked for grease flow. I believe it to be OK. As for the "bad joint" I also tried to cut threads off a new zerk and install without trying to tap new threads and it would not hold the zerk. I will replace this joint.
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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