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| [GMCnet] sender measurements and electrical [message #127993] |
Mon, 30 May 2011 12:24  |
SergeL
Messages: 169
Registered: January 2011
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Happy Memorial day ! And a special thanks to all of you out there that
have served our country.
(1) A few days back I asked this questions and so far there has been no
answers, so I will try again. I have looked up the drawings I could find
about where to cut the holes for the sender units on the floor but the
drawings don't say wether they are for the 23' or the 26' GMC. I have the 26
GMC, and do I have to even pull the tanks, it seams that if I use a router
and set the dept of cut, I should be able to do it without removing the
tanks.
(2) In order to remove all previous PO wiring much was small 24 gauge or
less with cracked insulation, I removed the dash and have spent many hours
since trying to get all gauges, lights and switches to work, they all worked
before I started this job but no longer function, I believe it is a ground
problem but so far have not come up with the solution. Any advice from some
of you that have completed this task? I am getting totally frustrated.
Thanks for any help
Serge
1973 GMC
Deming, NM
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| Re: [GMCnet] sender measurements and electrical [message #127995 is a reply to message #127993] |
Mon, 30 May 2011 12:46  |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Serge, in basic electricity 101, It is always the best policy to establish
the quality and quantity of the source of the electrons. Batteries that set
for long periods frequently do not do well. Check them first along with
their post connections as well as all grounds. Remove all ground cables
where they attatch to either the frame, firewall, or engine block and clean
both the cable ends as well as the metal that they attatch to. If the
fasteners are corroded or rusty, throw them away and replace them. Use
internal/external tooth locking washers between the cables and the metal
they attatch to and tighten them securely. Spray with the anti corrosion
inhibitor of your choice. The aluminum panels behind the instruments has
been known to not be well grounded. Make sure that the ground straps from
that panel is grounded to the engine block and it wouldn't be a bad idea to
run another to the alternator frame as well. Dim lights with fully charged
batteries always spells poor conductors, nearly always on the ground side of
the circuits. There are many dozens of potential trouble spots. Check
everywhere conductors terminate or connect to loads. I was taught that in DC
systems, 95 percent of all problems are conductor related. I have found that
to be true. Hope this gives some clues about where to look.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
On Mon, May 30, 2011 at 10:24 AM, Serge Leduc <greatmoments60@hotmail.com>wrote:
> Happy Memorial day ! And a special thanks to all of you out there that
> have served our country.
>
>
> (1) A few days back I asked this questions and so far there has been no
> answers, so I will try again. I have looked up the drawings I could find
> about where to cut the holes for the sender units on the floor but the
> drawings don't say wether they are for the 23' or the 26' GMC. I have the
> 26
> GMC, and do I have to even pull the tanks, it seams that if I use a router
> and set the dept of cut, I should be able to do it without removing the
> tanks.
>
>
> (2) In order to remove all previous PO wiring much was small 24 gauge or
> less with cracked insulation, I removed the dash and have spent many hours
> since trying to get all gauges, lights and switches to work, they all
> worked
> before I started this job but no longer function, I believe it is a ground
> problem but so far have not come up with the solution. Any advice from some
> of you that have completed this task? I am getting totally frustrated.
>
> Thanks for any help
>
> Serge
> 1973 GMC
> Deming, NM
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] sender measurements and electrical [message #127997 is a reply to message #127993] |
Mon, 30 May 2011 12:56 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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[quote title=Serge Leduc wrote on Mon, 30 May 2011 12:24]Happy Memorial day ! And a special thanks to all of you out there that
have served our country.
(1) A few days back I asked this questions and so far there has been no
answers, so I will try again. I have looked up the drawings I could find
about where to cut the holes for the sender units on the floor but the
drawings don't say wether they are for the 23' or the 26' GMC. I have the 26
GMC, and do I have to even pull the tanks, it seams that if I use a router
and set the dept of cut, I should be able to do it without removing the
tanks.
(2) In order to remove all previous PO wiring much was small 24 gauge or
less with cracked insulation, I removed the dash and have spent many hours
since trying to get all gauges, lights and switches to work, they all worked
before I started this job but no longer function, I believe it is a ground
problem but so far have not come up with the solution. Any advice from some
of you that have completed this task? I am getting totally frustrated.
Thanks for any help
Serge
1973 GMC
Deming, NM
end quote...
Serge,
Go here to find dimensions for both 23 and 26. But the first time you may want to drop the tanks.
http://gmcmotorhome.info/Fuel.html#senders
Dennis
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: [GMCnet] sender measurements and electrical [message #128000 is a reply to message #127997] |
Mon, 30 May 2011 13:08 |
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Hardie Johnson
Messages: 483
Registered: January 2004
Location: Raleigh NC
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| Dennis S wrote on Mon, 30 May 2011 13:56 |
| Serge Leduc wrote on Mon, 30 May 2011 12:24 |
I have looked up the drawings I could find about where to cut the holes for the sender units on the floor but the drawings don't say wether they are for the 23' or the 26' GMC. I have the 26
GMC, and do I have to even pull the tanks, it seams that if I use a router and set the dept of cut, I should be able to do it without removing the tanks.
<>
Serge
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Serge,
Go here to find dimensions for both 23 and 26. But the first time you may want to drop the tanks. http://gmcmotorhome.info/Fuel.html#senders
Dennis
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Unless you can cut with surgical precision, you might catch a wire or fuel line which is up against the plywood.
Did you pick up on the ideas to leave off the filter socks and use metal lines as much as possible across the tanks? You really need a working sender on the front tank only, anyway.
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC
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| Re: [GMCnet] sender measurements and electrical [message #128003 is a reply to message #127993] |
Mon, 30 May 2011 13:30 |
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WD0AFQ
Messages: 7111
Registered: November 2004
Location: Dexter, Mo.
Karma: 207
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Senior Member |
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Serge, first off, welcome to our group. I know you have been here a while but we have not spoken. How long have you been in Deming? We winter just north of Lordsburg, 30 miles, in our GMC.
Clip a good ground wire to the dash or one of the gauges. See if that works. I had a bad dash ground in our 74 and that is how I finally figured out why my analog gauges jumped everytime I pulled the light switch. Then I grounded the dash real good with a permanant wire.
Now, I believe on your 73 there are already round notches cut in the bottom of your floors, directly above both senders. There are on mine. I am not certain they are real accurate so I don't trust them. My plan is to search the photo site for pictures and measurements before I cut the two holes, from the top. The photo site is always searced, by me, before I do any major chore. Someone has already documented everything we do with pictures. Jim Waggoner posted some good photos of his job, on a 26, not too long ago. I am sure there are others.
Hope this helps.
Dan
3 In Stainless Exhaust Headers
One Ton All Discs/Reaction Arm
355 FD/Quad Bag/Alum Radiator Manny Tran/New eng.
Holley EFI/10 Tire Air Monitoring System
Solarized Coach/Upgraded Windows
Satelite TV/On Demand Hot Water/3Way Refer
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| Re: [GMCnet] sender measurements and electrical [message #128014 is a reply to message #127993] |
Mon, 30 May 2011 16:13 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Serge Leduc wrote on Mon, 30 May 2011 12:24 |
I removed the dash and have spent many hours
since trying to get all gauges, lights and switches to work, they all worked
before I started this job but no longer function, I believe it is a ground
problem but so far have not come up with the solution. Any advice from some
of you that have completed this task? I am getting totally frustrated.
Thanks for any help
Serge
1973 GMC
Deming, NM
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Well you need to get in there with VOM and determine if you are missing ground or +12 volts to the gauges. Connect the VOM negative side to something other than the dash (I usually use an alligator clip to the key inserted in the ignition) and start probing the gauges for +12 volts with the key on. If you find it, then your +12 volts is OK and your problem is the ground side. If not then start looking for the +12 volts. I would start with the fuses.
On the ground side GM wired the dash ground in a round about manner. There is a ground wire on the back of the dash that runs from the dash through the firewall and up front to the aluminum plate that has the isolator and boost solenoid mounted on it. You can easily see this plate by opening the passenger side hood. There is a second wire on the plate that goes direct to the negative battery post. Finally there is the big battery cable from that same post that should be connected directly to any bolt on the engine.
Note: The ENGINE BLOCK is the main ground for all engine driven accessories. All engine driven accessories including the major engine accessories of Distributor, alternator, starter, and battery are connected directly to the engine block for ground. Other remote mounted items need to go to the engine by the shortest practical route. GM kind of violated this rule for the dash ground by running it's ground circuit through the isolator plate and battery before making it back to the engine.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] sender measurements and electrical [message #128027 is a reply to message #127993] |
Mon, 30 May 2011 18:36 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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I am on travel, so not up to date, but did you look here
http://goo.gl/1xeHv
and here
http://goo.gl/Kqrqj
dimensions are shown for 23 and 26 and hot to find them
gene
On Mon, May 30, 2011 at 10:24 AM, Serge Leduc <greatmoments60@hotmail.com>wrote:
> Happy Memorial day ! And a special thanks to all of you out there that
> have served our country.
>
>
> (1) A few days back I asked this questions and so far there has been no
> answers, so I will try again. I have looked up the drawings I could find
> about where to cut the holes for the sender units on the floor but the
> drawings don't say wether they are for the 23' or the 26' GMC. I have the
> 26
> GMC, and do I have to even pull the tanks, it seams that if I use a router
> and set the dept of cut, I should be able to do it without removing the
> tanks.
>
>
> (2) In order to remove all previous PO wiring much was small 24 gauge or
> less with cracked insulation, I removed the dash and have spent many hours
> since trying to get all gauges, lights and switches to work, they all
> worked
> before I started this job but no longer function, I believe it is a ground
> problem but so far have not come up with the solution. Any advice from some
> of you that have completed this task? I am getting totally frustrated.
>
> Thanks for any help
>
> Serge
> 1973 GMC
> Deming, NM
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: [GMCnet] sender measurements and electrical [message #128250 is a reply to message #128003] |
Wed, 01 June 2011 21:30 |
midlf
Messages: 2212
Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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| WD0AFQ wrote on Mon, 30 May 2011 13:30 |
Now, I believe on your 73 there are already round notches cut in the bottom of your floors, directly above both senders. There are on mine. I am not certain they are real accurate so I don't trust them. My plan is to search the photo site for pictures and measurements before I cut the two holes, from the top. The photo site is always searched, by me, before I do any major chore. Someone has already documented everything we do with pictures. Jim Waggoner posted some good photos of his job, on a 26, not too long ago. I am sure there are others.
Hope this helps.
Dan
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The routed cutouts in the bottom of the floor panels on 73/74 coaches do not appear to be centered over the sender but seem to be centered over the area where the sender tubes and clamps are located. Thus the routed out area is a bit left and forward of the actual sender opening in the tank. Still doing some measuring before I respond to Gene's request for dimensions.
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
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