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Re: [GMCnet] Best Penetrating Fluid? [message #117281] Wed, 02 March 2011 20:40 Go to next message
Oldrvguybcg is currently offline  Oldrvguybcg
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According to a study I saw last year, a 50-50 mix of Acetone and ATF worked
better than anything on the commercial market. Personally I've never tried
it but it beat out Kroil, Liquid Wrench, WD-40. I like the heat approach
myself but maybe a combination of the two would work better. For my bumper
bolt, I hit them with the impact wrench on TIGHTEN and snapped the off. I
replaced them with the SS bolts after the bumper was painted.

Brian Gleissner
74 Sequoia
Woodbury, CT 06798
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Re: [GMCnet] Best Penetrating Fluid? [message #117286 is a reply to message #117281] Wed, 02 March 2011 21:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
fred v is currently offline  fred v   United States
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Oldrvguybcg wrote on Wed, 02 March 2011 20:40

According to a study I saw last year, a 50-50 mix of Acetone and ATF worked
better than anything on the commercial market. Personally I've never tried
it but it beat out Kroil, Liquid Wrench, WD-40. I like the heat approach
myself but maybe a combination of the two would work better. For my bumper
bolt, I hit them with the impact wrench on TIGHTEN and snapped the off. I
replaced them with the SS bolts after the bumper was painted.

Brian Gleissner
74 Sequoia
Woodbury, CT 06798
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there was a long thread on this subject about a year ago. someone tried syn. tranny oil but it wouldn't mix. i suspect any regular oil would work.


Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl
Re: [GMCnet] Best Penetrating Fluid? [message #117424 is a reply to message #117286] Thu, 03 March 2011 21:08 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bob de Kruyff   United States
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These threads have gotten fragmented, but after all of the hoopla about Kroil, I ordered several cans a couple of years ago. Frankly, I'm not overly impressed by it. Sure I live in AZ, but a lot of my stuff still has Michigan written all over it.

Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
Re: [GMCnet] Best Penetrating Fluid? [message #117440 is a reply to message #117424] Thu, 03 March 2011 22:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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Bob de Kruyff wrote on Thu, 03 March 2011 21:08

These threads have gotten fragmented, but after all of the hoopla about Kroil, I ordered several cans a couple of years ago. Frankly, I'm not overly impressed by it. Sure I live in AZ, but a lot of my stuff still has Michigan written all over it.



It works very, very well. The trick is to let it soak for a few days first. If you can apply heat and shock cool it with Kroil it will speed up the process. I have found 5 days will do it every time. I had exhaust manifold bolts (actually headers) I could not get loose. I soaked them and tried to remove them once a day. On the fifth day the 5 stuck bolts just spun right out.

It takes time.



Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: [GMCnet] Best Penetrating Fluid? [message #117446 is a reply to message #117440] Thu, 03 March 2011 22:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
ggroth is currently offline  ggroth   United States
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I've been using the tranny fluid/Acetone now for about a year; I think it is very good. I just used up 1/2 the Acetone and then mixed the tranny fluid in the same can. It has lasted well.

geo groth '73 260 Sequoia Carson City Nevada 89703
Re: [GMCnet] Best Penetrating Fluid? [message #117458 is a reply to message #117446] Fri, 04 March 2011 02:30 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
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I have decided to share with you guys a trick that I use on the occasion
that requires it. What you need is a high temp heat gun or a pin point heat
source like a jewelers torch or the small propane pencil flame units and a
stick of parrafin wax like is used to seal jams and jellies ( might be able
to hijack some from the kitchen) if not just look in the store near the
canning supplies. When you encounter a frozen nut on a manifold stud, heat
the end of the stud pretty hot, doesn't have to be red hot, remove the heat
source and extinguish the flame and apply the parrafin to the intersection
of the threads. It will smoke quite a bit and the vapors given off are very
flammable so have an extinguisher handy if stuffff happens. The parrafin
will be wicked into the threads and will do a very good job of breaking
loose the rust. Another benefit is that it lubricates the threads. Repeat as
necessary. Have used this trick a lot on rusty old junk. Just remember,
bolts and nuts are very cheap and are meant to be replaced, but one pull too
many on a wrench can and will result in several hours of cussin a broken
exhaust manifold stud, ez out, drill bit, etc.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC Royale 403

On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 8:41 PM, George Groth <grggroth@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>
>
> I've been using the tranny fluid/Acetone now for about a year; I think it
> is very good. I just used up 1/2 the Acetone and then mixed the tranny
> fluid in the same can. It has lasted well.
> --
> geo groth '73 260 Sequoia
> Carson City Nevada
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Re: [GMCnet] Best Penetrating Fluid? [message #117493 is a reply to message #117440] Fri, 04 March 2011 09:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bob de Kruyff   United States
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Location: Chandler, AZ
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Ken Burton wrote on Thu, 03 March 2011 21:18

Bob de Kruyff wrote on Thu, 03 March 2011 21:08

These threads have gotten fragmented, but after all of the hoopla about Kroil, I ordered several cans a couple of years ago. Frankly, I'm not overly impressed by it. Sure I live in AZ, but a lot of my stuff still has Michigan written all over it.



It works very, very well. The trick is to let it soak for a few days first. If you can apply heat and shock cool it with Kroil it will speed up the process. I have found 5 days will do it every time. I had exhaust manifold bolts (actually headers) I could not get loose. I soaked them and tried to remove them once a day. On the fifth day the 5 stuck bolts just spun right out.

It takes time.



I suspect that's the issue with me--way too impatient Smile


Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
Re: [GMCnet] Best Penetrating Fluid? [message #117502 is a reply to message #117458] Fri, 04 March 2011 10:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
lance is currently offline  lance   United States
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Jim is right. A machinist gave me this tip. Use a crayon. steal one from your kid or grandkid. When you warm the bolt do not get it very hot. Just 250 degrees is plenty enough the liquify the wax and let it wick in without too much smoke.

1974 Palm Beach
Re: [GMCnet] Best Penetrating Fluid? [message #117536 is a reply to message #117424] Fri, 04 March 2011 16:01 Go to previous messageGo to next message
midlf is currently offline  midlf   United States
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Bob de Kruyff wrote on Thu, 03 March 2011 21:08

These threads have gotten fragmented, but after all of the hoopla about Kroil, I ordered several cans a couple of years ago. Frankly, I'm not overly impressed by it. Sure I live in AZ, but a lot of my stuff still has Michigan written all over it.


Bob - Michigan = salt corrosion (as you know very well.) KROIL is good, not a miracle. Rust belt states need miracles for our rusted nuts and bolts.

I get real envious of you guys that talk about what you find in the men's mall. Around here its rare to find anything over 20 years old in the junk yard. And if you do find something that old it's just because it just came in. If you want anything off of it you gotta do it right then cause it will probably be gone with the next load to the shredder. I think having nearby steel mini-mills doesn't help either.


Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
Re: [GMCnet] Best Penetrating Fluid? [message #117590 is a reply to message #117536] Fri, 04 March 2011 20:54 Go to previous message
Bob de Kruyff   United States
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
Senior Member
midlf wrote on Fri, 04 March 2011 15:01

Bob de Kruyff wrote on Thu, 03 March 2011 21:08

These threads have gotten fragmented, but after all of the hoopla about Kroil, I ordered several cans a couple of years ago. Frankly, I'm not overly impressed by it. Sure I live in AZ, but a lot of my stuff still has Michigan written all over it.


Bob - Michigan = salt corrosion (as you know very well.) KROIL is good, not a miracle. Rust belt states need miracles for our rusted nuts and bolts.

I get real envious of you guys that talk about what you find in the men's mall. Around here its rare to find anything over 20 years old in the junk yard. And if you do find something that old it's just because it just came in. If you want anything off of it you gotta do it right then cause it will probably be gone with the next load to the shredder. I think having nearby steel mini-mills doesn't help either.


It really is amazing to me when I go to the pick & pulls and still see the bar code tags on 20 year old cars as well as underbodies that look virtually new. Out here you see perfectly good bodies of cars that were scrapped because the engines crapped out--esp Cadillacs with the "aluminum foil" engines.


Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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