Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » drip channel
| drip channel [message #111179] |
Fri, 07 January 2011 02:23  |
jayrabe
Messages: 509
Registered: June 2009
Location: Portland, OR
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Getting started tearing bedroom apart to insulate and build a tilt bed. When I got the walls off, I saw what appears to be some kind of drip channel running horizontally about 8" below the side window, and it's got about 1/4" of water in it. Haven't seen any active leaks from roof or windows during heavy rain, but where is this water coming in? Could it be from the rub strip that covers the fiberglass-aluminum joint? Same situation on driver's side. And is this channel supposed to drain somewhere, or just evaporate?
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=37275&title=drip-channel&cat=5410
Thanks,
J
76 PB
Portland, OR
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| Re: [GMCnet] drip channel [message #111182 is a reply to message #111179] |
Fri, 07 January 2011 04:15  |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
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great pictures
If you have not been there yet, you might want to go here and read some of
the great links about LEAK MANAGEMENT
http://gmcmotorhome.info/living.html#head
I also suggest,if you do not want to remove the end caps (I don't) you might
drill a 1/4 inch (or so) hole at the ends of the cracks , to stop their
advance. then mount a cabinet over the rear window, to cover the existing
cracks ;>)
something like this
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=10139&cat=3881
http://goo.gl/ueCpU
and
while you are there, at the water pump, you might want to consider upgrading
the fresh water drain valves so you can drain the tank without raising the
bed
like this
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=1916&cat=3185
http://goo.gl/MFzCb
great project for a wet, winter, day ;>)
way to go
gene
On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 12:23 AM, Jay Rabe <jayrabe@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Getting started tearing bedroom apart to insulate and build a tilt bed.
> When I got the walls off, I saw what appears to be some kind of drip channel
> running horizontally about 8" below the side window, and it's got about 1/4"
> of water in it. Haven't seen any active leaks from roof or windows during
> heavy rain, but where is this water coming in? Could it be from the rub
> strip that covers the fiberglass-aluminum joint? Same situation on driver's
> side. And is this channel supposed to drain somewhere, or just evaporate?
>
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=37275&title=drip-channel&cat=5410
>
> Thanks,
>
> J
> 76 PB
> Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
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>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: drip channel [message #111184 is a reply to message #111179] |
Fri, 07 January 2011 06:06 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
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| jayrabe wrote on Fri, 07 January 2011 00:23 |
... I saw what appears to be some kind of drip channel running horizontally about 8" below the side window, and it's got about 1/4" of water in it. Haven't seen any active leaks from roof or windows during heavy rain, but where is this water coming in? ...
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While it is quite likely you have a leak, could it be condensation? I find a lot of moisture on any bare metal in the coach this time of year.
Rick Denny has some good ideas on leak management that could be applied to condensation.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] drip channel [message #111185 is a reply to message #111179] |
Fri, 07 January 2011 05:58 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Jay,
You, or perhaps even bdub, need to do something about the description
field on that photo -- it''s full of garbage text which I'm sure you
didn't intentionally put there.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 3:23 AM, Jay Rabe <jayrabe@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=37275&title=drip-channel&cat=5410
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] drip channel [message #111188 is a reply to message #111179] |
Fri, 07 January 2011 06:56 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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For your tilt bed project.
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com/tech/tiltbed/index.html
JR Wright
On Jan 7, 2011, at 3:23 AM, Jay Rabe wrote:
>
>
> Getting started tearing bedroom apart to insulate and build a tilt
> bed. When I got the walls off, I saw what appears to be some kind of
> drip channel running horizontally about 8" below the side window,
> and it's got about 1/4" of water in it. Haven't seen any active
> leaks from roof or windows during heavy rain, but where is this
> water coming in? Could it be from the rub strip that covers the
> fiberglass-aluminum joint? Same situation on driver's side. And is
> this channel supposed to drain somewhere, or just evaporate?
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=37275&title=drip-channel&cat=5410
>
> Thanks,
>
> J
> 76 PB
> Portland, OR
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] drip channel [message #111190 is a reply to message #111182] |
Fri, 07 January 2011 07:08 |
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Hardie Johnson
Messages: 483
Registered: January 2004
Location: Raleigh NC
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| Mr ERFisher wrote on Fri, 07 January 2011 05:15 |
great pictures<>I also suggest,if you do not want to remove the end caps (I don't) you might drill a 1/4 inch (or so) hole at the ends of the cracks , to stop their advance. then mount a cabinet over the rear window, to cover the existing
cracks ;>)
<>while you are there, at the water pump, you might want to consider upgrading the fresh water drain valves so you can drain the tank without raising the bed like this
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=1916&cat=3185
http://goo.gl/MFzCb
<>
gene
<>
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While you are upgrading the plumbing, consider upgrading the pump itself for a quieter model. Also, I have eliminated the fill port on the tank by mounting a valve from the side that is pressurized when you hook up to city water that goes to the tank fill spot. My drain valve is accessible from under the coach. I also added a line on the suction side of the pump to fill the system will RV Pink antifreeze.
As for the caps, they can be repaired well with ABS cement and fine fiberglass cloth. If you want it to look nice you have to take the cap out, but it looks like you are close to that anyway.
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC
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| Re: drip channel [message #111222 is a reply to message #111179] |
Fri, 07 January 2011 11:16 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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| jayrabe wrote on Fri, 07 January 2011 01:23 |
Getting started tearing bedroom apart to insulate and build a tilt bed. When I got the walls off, I saw what appears to be some kind of drip channel running horizontally about 8" below the side window, and it's got about 1/4" of water in it. Haven't seen any active leaks from roof or windows during heavy rain, but where is this water coming in? Could it be from the rub strip that covers the fiberglass-aluminum joint? Same situation on driver's side. And is this channel supposed to drain somewhere, or just evaporate?
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=37275&title=drip-channel&cat=5410
Thanks,
J
76 PB
Portland, OR
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I don't think it's a drip channel per se. The inner structure is composed of aluminum extrusions that can act like drip channels by default. Unfortunately they do route water leaks to werever the extrusion ends.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] drip channel [message #111225 is a reply to message #111179] |
Fri, 07 January 2011 11:39 |
Richard Denney
Messages: 920
Registered: April 2010
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 3:23 AM, Jay Rabe <jayrabe@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Getting started tearing bedroom apart to insulate and build a tilt bed.
> When I got the walls off, I saw what appears to be some kind of drip channel
> running horizontally about 8" below the side window, and it's got about 1/4"
> of water in it. Haven't seen any active leaks from roof or windows during
> heavy rain, but where is this water coming in? Could it be from the rub
> strip that covers the fiberglass-aluminum joint? Same situation on driver's
> side. And is this channel supposed to drain somewhere, or just evaporate?
>
Gene's link leads to this eventually (thought I still can't get him to call
me Rick), but here's a link to the relevant picture for your situation:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=16480&cat=4432
Any leaks in the screws that hold on the body side molding will collect
here, as well as leaks from windows that run down the back side of the
interior panels and then drain into these. I'm pretty sure a leak around the
edge of my electrical box was my main culprit, but there were and are still
lots of candidates where I had my waistline water collecting. This channel
drains nowhere, and anything that touches it will eventually rot. Mine would
leak so badly that it overflowed and soaked the interior finish panel, which
then rotted. I fixed a number of leaks and got it to the point where only
there is only minor water collection there in really severe rain storms, and
it no longer overflows. I also built a new closet and left the back open
which provided ventilation to this area where I was having the water
collection problem. That not only lets it dry, but also gives me a way to
check it with an extended finger (which finger you use is your choice).
Rick "be sure to read all the text in that album, too" Denney
--
'73 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
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| Re: [GMCnet] drip channel [message #111236 is a reply to message #111222] |
Fri, 07 January 2011 12:55 |
jayrabe
Messages: 509
Registered: June 2009
Location: Portland, OR
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Yeah, it's actually called a "waistline extrusion" per Rick's leak management page:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=16480&cat=4432
Interesting thing is that at least the rear end that I have access to seems to be capped, or maybe just plugged with foam insulation, because it doesn't run out. There's standing water the full length of it.
Anyway, it looks like I'll be cleaning and resealing the rub strip that covers the waistline joint.
J
76 PB
Portland, OR
where it only rains in the winter, well and a little in the spring, oh and once a while in the summer, but not much usually in the fall but sometimes...
> I don't think it's a drip channel per se. The inner structure is composed of aluminum extrusions that can act like drip channels by default. Unfortunately they do route water leaks to werever the extrusion ends.
> --
> Bob de Kruyff
> 78 Eleganza
> Chandler, AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] drip channel [message #111241 is a reply to message #111238] |
Fri, 07 January 2011 14:56 |
jayrabe
Messages: 509
Registered: June 2009
Location: Portland, OR
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Yeah, I thought about that, like Gene did on the roof extrusion, with a hose down the vertical channel and out the wheel well or propane compartment wherever. Problem is, upon closer examination this morning, looks like each horizontal section of extrusion is effectively capped at each end where they butt up against the vertical frame pieces. So I'd have to drain every one of them, not sure, maybe 5 per side? Better I think to fix the source which again after closer exam I'm pretty sure is at the fiberglass/aluminum waist joint. But it all looks doable. I'm not any worse off to leave them undrained. I mean, they've been that way forever, and I never saw any water on the floor or on the walls, so whether it was designed as a drip capture or not, it worked very well for that, holding the water until it evaporated. I wouldn't have known about it at all if I hadn't removed the wall covering.
Interesting consequence of each section being capped at each end, is that they help locate the leak. The rear most section, basically under the rear window, is dry, but the section from in front of the window to about the refrigerator has 1/4" of water. I know it kind of doesn't matter since I'll be resealing the whole length anyway...
J
76 PB
Portland, OR
-----------------------------------------
> Maybe drill a drain hole???
> --
> CBWood
> 77 Kingslay
> MWC OK
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| Re: [GMCnet] drip channel [message #111293 is a reply to message #111236] |
Fri, 07 January 2011 22:54 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Jay, Jim Bounds says that the best way to manage water leakage problems in
GMCs is to determine the number of leaks, and the combined flow rates, then
drill a hole in the bottom of the coach large enough to accomodate the
flow.<Grin>. It really is a never ending process, these coaches flex with
road irregularities and are subject to condensation as well as heating and
cooling stresses. Best bet is a non hardening, self leveling, NON SILICONE
sealant. 3M heavy drip check sealer works well and there are many others
including sika-flex made in canada. I use them both and they work quite
well.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 Royale 403
On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 10:55 AM, Jay Rabe <jayrabe@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Yeah, it's actually called a "waistline extrusion" per Rick's leak
> management page:
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=16480&cat=4432
>
> Interesting thing is that at least the rear end that I have access to seems
> to be capped, or maybe just plugged with foam insulation, because it doesn't
> run out. There's standing water the full length of it.
>
> Anyway, it looks like I'll be cleaning and resealing the rub strip that
> covers the waistline joint.
>
> J
> 76 PB
> Portland, OR
> where it only rains in the winter, well and a little in the spring, oh and
> once a while in the summer, but not much usually in the fall but
> sometimes...
>
>
> > I don't think it's a drip channel per se. The inner structure is composed
> of aluminum extrusions that can act like drip channels by default.
> Unfortunately they do route water leaks to werever the extrusion ends.
> > --
> > Bob de Kruyff
> > 78 Eleganza
> > Chandler, AZ
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] drip channel [message #111304 is a reply to message #111300] |
Fri, 07 January 2011 23:27 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Jay, 5200 works well too. If you have a lot of sealing to do, the calking
tubes are handy.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC Royale 403
On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 9:17 PM, Jay Rabe <jayrabe@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Based on recommendations a few months ago, I used 3M 5200 to seal the
> roof seams. No evidence of leaks, but it hasn't been that long. What's
> opinion of the 5200 vs. drip check?
>
> J
> 76 PB
> Portland, OR
>
>
> > ... ... ... Best bet is a non hardening, self leveling, NON SILICONE
> > sealant. 3M heavy drip check sealer works well and there are many others
> > including sika-flex made in canada. I use them both and they work quite
> > well.
> > Jim Hupy
> > Salem, Or
> > 78 Royale 403
>
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