| Re: [GMCnet] Winterizing the GMC [message #105808] |
Fri, 12 November 2010 20:45  |
dngmissett
Messages: 84
Registered: February 2004
Karma: 0
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Member |
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Rather than buy the blow plug adapter get one of these
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/blow-out-hose/38534
or cut about 8 inches from the male end of an old hose and push an air compressor quick connector fitting into the cut end and tighten with a small hose clamp. What I like about this setup is that it turns the process into a much easier one man job in that you can
set your air compressor output, hook it to the quick connect and let it run while your in the coach opening faucets. I found it to be a bit of a PIA running in and out of the coach to hold the air line onto the blow plug. JWID
Dick Missett
Wyoming, PA
--- On Fri, 11/12/10, Mike Miller <m000035@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Mike Miller <m000035@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Winterizing the GMC
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Date: Friday, November 12, 2010, 8:41 PM
Stick Miller wrote on Fri, 12 November 2010 15:06
> ... Where does one "blow" the lines? I have an air compressor.
> ...
You "blow" through the city water connection. You can buy a adapter at most places that have an "RV" section.
"Blow" until the water and mist stops coming out each faucet. (remember the toilet and shower.) Then wait for the water in the lines to collect in the low spots, and blow again. Repeat as much as required.
I also "blow" through the fresh water pump from the valve I added there.
I live where we get hard freezes for a few weeks each year... longer than I want to "heat" the coach. So after the "drain and blow" I put pink stuff in the lines, wait a bit (an hour to a few days) then blow the pink stuff out the same way I blew out the water. The pink stuff goes into the empty drains and tanks. When I install the macator, I would "bump" it to get some anti-freeze into it.
Please note that heating the insides of your coach will NOT protect your tanks or macator.
--
Mike Miller
#01 - `73 26' X Painted D. "The Spare"
#02 - `78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath "The User"
#03 - `77 23' Birchaven Side Bath "The Keeper"
Hillsboro, OR
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| Re: [GMCnet] Winterizing the GMC [message #105846 is a reply to message #105808] |
Sat, 13 November 2010 11:33  |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| dngmissett wrote on Fri, 12 November 2010 21:45 |
Rather than buy the blow plug adapter get one of these
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/blow-out-hose/38534
or cut about 8 inches from the male end of an old hose and push an air compressor quick connector fitting into the cut end and tighten with a small hose clamp. What I like about this setup is that it turns the process into a much easier one man job in that you can set your air compressor output, hook it to the quick connect and let it run while your in the coach opening faucets. I found it to be a bit of a PIA running in and out of the coach to hold the air line onto the blow plug. JWID
Dick Missett
Wyoming, PA
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Dick's idea has the better approach, but I am just too cheap to let this pass. The less expensive way it to go to any good hardware store and look in the nice brass parts in Plumbing. Find a Male Hose to Female pipe fitting. If you bring a male air fitting with you, you can buy the bushing to make it screw right in.
Now, you can screw that adapter into the city water connection and start opening things up so the water can get out. If you have a tank a fill valve, you can probably even blow the remaining water out of the potable tank. I find a supply pressure in the 20~30 region works best on my old copper plumbed coach.
The pump still has to be disconnected and drained and filled with antifreeze by itself. This is why I use almost an half gallon every year - for the pump and three traps and to leave some in the tank (I only have a black) so the dump valve so it does not get hurt by the freeze.
Yes, do remember all the places. Most toilets have their water valve at the bottom and so take much longer to blow clear than you might expect (and the parts cost ~30$). A block of wood to hold the valve open is a worthwhile convenience. One of the first things to do is blow out the hot water tank (clear the breaker and tag it first). It will blow down to a "No Freeze Damage" level - this was confirmed by a telephone conversation with a tech at Atwood years ago.
When you are sure the system is clear, keep the blow on for a few more minutes - just because it is real close to free and expensive if there was water hanging in the system somewhere.
Take your time at this and good luck
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Winterizing the GMC [message #105850 is a reply to message #105846] |
Sat, 13 November 2010 13:30 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Matt,
If you're speaking of an Atwood EH-6 you don't even have to blow it out,
just open the drain. The drain is positioned so that:
a) the heater element is not exposed when completely drained
b) the level of water remaining in the tank is below 1/2 full so that if it
freezes it can expand upwards into a larger area.
I discovered this when I replaced the element in the Atwood heater Downunder
because the PO had left the 115 vac element and controls on it.
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Matt Colie
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2010 11:33 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Winterizing the GMC
dngmissett wrote on Fri, 12 November 2010 21:45
> Rather than buy the blow plug adapter get one of these
> http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/blow-out-hose/38534
> or cut about 8 inches from the male end of an old hose and push an air
compressor quick connector fitting into the cut end and tighten with a small
hose clamp. What I like about this setup is that it turns the process into a
much easier one man job in that you can set your air compressor output, hook
it to the quick connect and let it run while your in the coach opening
faucets. I found it to be a bit of a PIA running in and out of the coach to
hold the air line onto the blow plug. JWID
>
> Dick Missett
> Wyoming, PA
Dick's idea has the better approach, but I am just too cheap to let this
pass. The less expensive way it to go to any good hardware store and look
in the nice brass parts in Plumbing. Find a Male Hose to Female pipe
fitting. If you bring a male air fitting with you, you can buy the bushing
to make it screw right in.
Now, you can screw that adapter into the city water connection and start
opening things up so the water can get out. If you have a tank a fill
valve, you can probably even blow the remaining water out of the potable
tank. I find a supply pressure in the 20~30 region works best on my old
copper plumbed coach.
The pump still has to be disconnected and drained and filled with antifreeze
by itself. This is why I use almost an half gallon every year - for the
pump and three traps and to leave some in the tank (I only have a black) so
the dump valve so it does not get hurt by the freeze.
Yes, do remember all the places. Most toilets have their water valve at
the bottom and so take much longer to blow clear than you might expect (and
the parts cost ~30$). A block of wood to hold the valve open is a
worthwhile convenience. One of the first things to do is blow out the hot
water tank (clear the breaker and tag it first). It will blow down to a "No
Freeze Damage" level - this was confirmed by a telephone conversation with a
tech at Atwood years ago.
When you are sure the system is clear, keep the blow on for a few more
minutes - just because it is real close to free and expensive if there was
water hanging in the system somewhere.
Take your time at this and good luck
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie
'73 Glacier 23 Chaumiere (say show-me-air)
SE Michigan - DTW 3.2/4R
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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