| No power [message #104620] |
Sat, 30 October 2010 11:34  |
Smitty52
Messages: 181
Registered: July 2007
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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OK, no start. Actually no power. Doing the EFI install and ready to fire it for the first time. I hooked the battery back up and there were no sparks to indicate a short or power draw. Had power for a while cause the door buzzer went off when I turned the key on. Turned the key to on and heard a whoosh which I took to be the fuel pump pushing fuel and the air heading to the return. Tried to connect the flash cable and
had to download a usb to serial software patch. Got that done and went to try it again and no power. The fuse box is dead - no power. Checked the battery - it lights a test lamp and I made sure the connections are clean and tight. The ground connection on the block is secure. Tried the boost switch and heard a thud but still no power.
I tied into the crank sensor at the top of the engine so I never was able to get at the connections on the starter. Miguel put a new starter in when he redid the motor. There is power to the starter solenoid.
Ideas?
Wayne and Lisa,
Bolton Landing, NY,
Patriot Guard Rider,
Standing for those who stood for us.
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| Re: [GMCnet] No power [message #104626 is a reply to message #104620] |
Sat, 30 October 2010 14:00  |
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ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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Dead battery, dirty cables, something that's preventing big amps from getting to the starter?
Larry Davick
On Oct 30, 2010, at 9:34 AM, Wayne E LaMothe <superglider@juno.com> wrote:
>
>
> OK, no start. Actually no power. Doing the EFI install and ready to fire it for the first time. I hooked the battery back up and there were no sparks to indicate a short or power draw. Had power for a while cause the door buzzer went off when I turned the key on. Turned the key to on and heard a whoosh which I took to be the fuel pump pushing fuel and the air heading to the return. Tried to connect the flash cable and
> had to download a usb to serial software patch. Got that done and went to try it again and no power. The fuse box is dead - no power. Checked the battery - it lights a test lamp and I made sure the connections are clean and tight. The ground connection on the block is secure. Tried the boost switch and heard a thud but still no power.
>
> I tied into the crank sensor at the top of the engine so I never was able to get at the connections on the starter. Miguel put a new starter in when he redid the motor. There is power to the starter solenoid.
>
> Ideas?
> --
> Wayne and Lisa,
> Bolton Landing, NY,
>
> Big Blue Bus AKA Triple B, 78 Royale center kitchen,
>
> Patriot Guard Rider,
> Standing for those who stood for us.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
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List Information and Subscription Options:
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Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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| Re: [GMCnet] No power [message #104627 is a reply to message #104626] |
Sat, 30 October 2010 14:12 |
GMC_LES
Messages: 569
Registered: October 2009
Location: Montreal
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Possibly a bad connection at the isolator?
Since you have no power at the fusebox, the problem is likely somewhere between the fusebox & the battery.
Les Burt
Sent from my iPhone
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Les Burt
Montreal
1975 Eleganza 26ft
A work in Progress
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| Re: No power [message #104628 is a reply to message #104620] |
Sat, 30 October 2010 14:52 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Smitty52 wrote on Sat, 30 October 2010 11:34 |
OK, no start. Actually no power. Doing the EFI install and ready to fire it for the first time. I hooked the battery back up and there were no sparks to indicate a short or power draw. Had power for a while cause the door buzzer went off when I turned the key on. Turned the key to on and heard a whoosh which I took to be the fuel pump pushing fuel and the air heading to the return. Tried to connect the flash cable and
had to download a usb to serial software patch. Got that done and went to try it again and no power. The fuse box is dead - no power. Checked the battery - it lights a test lamp and I made sure the connections are clean and tight. The ground connection on the block is secure. Tried the boost switch and heard a thud but still no power.
I tied into the crank sensor at the top of the engine so I never was able to get at the connections on the starter. Miguel put a new starter in when he redid the motor. There is power to the starter solenoid.
Ideas?
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It sure sounds like a dirty battery cable to me. Clean up both of them with a battery cable brush until they are shiny. Coat them with anti-oxidation grease and reconnect them. It could also be a loose battery cable on the other end from the battery. Check whatever ends you had loose recently. That is probably where your problem is.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: No power [message #104638 is a reply to message #104628] |
Sat, 30 October 2010 17:59 |
Smitty52
Messages: 181
Registered: July 2007
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Found it!!! The fusible link between the positive post on the firewall and the horn/buzzer relay is no good. I briefly hooked a jumper wire and everything powered up. I think the diagram indicates it is a 16 guage fusible link. Anyone know for sure?
Wayne and Lisa,
Bolton Landing, NY,
Patriot Guard Rider,
Standing for those who stood for us.
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| Re: [GMCnet] No power [message #104645 is a reply to message #104640] |
Sat, 30 October 2010 19:16 |
Smitty52
Messages: 181
Registered: July 2007
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I just went out and looked at the fusible link again to see if I could find a rating. I ended up cutting the wire out and when I did I found that the section that went behind the main wire bundle to the fuse box had been rubbing on the firewall. The wire was poking through the insulation. I moved this wire around a little when I hooked up the constant power wire for the fuel pump to the "Vehicle positive battery" post. I am thinking that may have been the problem causing it to burn out. I am going to try a 20 amp inline fuse to test it out. I may use a echanical automatic resetting type once I am sure the issue has been corrected. I would hate to have the coach go dead driving down a road at 55 late at night. The auto restting type hopefully would let me get to the side of the road safely.
Now, maybe I can get back to getting the EFI fired up.
Wayne and Lisa,
Bolton Landing, NY,
Patriot Guard Rider,
Standing for those who stood for us.
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| Re: No power [message #104648 is a reply to message #104620] |
Sat, 30 October 2010 19:38 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Sort of the saftey device causing the accident with the chafe through.
I've had to replace them near the starter looms before on GM. Famous for the 'green oxide powder syndrome'. "dust to dust" exemplified.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: No power [message #104649 is a reply to message #104648] |
Sat, 30 October 2010 19:40 |
Smitty52
Messages: 181
Registered: July 2007
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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anyone know the rating of 1.05qmm? That is what is written on the link.
Wayne and Lisa,
Bolton Landing, NY,
Patriot Guard Rider,
Standing for those who stood for us.
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| Re: [GMCnet] No power [message #104653 is a reply to message #104645] |
Sat, 30 October 2010 20:07 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Smitty52 wrote on Sat, 30 October 2010 19:16 |
I just went out and looked at the fusible link again to see if I could find a rating. I ended up cutting the wire out and when I did I found that the section that went behind the main wire bundle to the fuse box had been rubbing on the firewall. The wire was poking through the insulation. I moved this wire around a little when I hooked up the constant power wire for the fuel pump to the "Vehicle positive battery" post. I am thinking that may have been the problem causing it to burn out. I am going to try a 20 amp inline fuse to test it out. I may use a echanical automatic resetting type once I am sure the issue has been corrected. I would hate to have the coach go dead driving down a road at 55 late at night. The auto restting type hopefully would let me get to the side of the road safely.
Now, maybe I can get back to getting the EFI fired up.
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Go to AutoZone and get one for GM. I just replaced one of those a few weeks back on Arch's coach at the DuQuoin rally. AZ had it in stock. You will also need a couple of appropriately sized crimp on terminals. The ones in the package were not the correct size. I believe the fusible like was 12 gauge and the insulation was gray.
They are located with the switches and fuses on hanging cards on on the floor rather than behind the counter. They are around $3.00.
A 20 amp fuse as a replacement for the fusible link is not going to hack it. Everything on the engine side of the coach except the high speed fan, starter, and charging the battery runs through that fusible link.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
[Updated on: Sat, 30 October 2010 20:11] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] No power [message #104670 is a reply to message #104653] |
Sun, 31 October 2010 05:24 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Ken Burton wrote on Sat, 30 October 2010 20:07 |
| Smitty52 wrote on Sat, 30 October 2010 19:16 |
I just went out and looked at the fusible link again to see if I could find a rating. I ended up cutting the wire out and when I did I found that the section that went behind the main wire bundle to the fuse box had been rubbing on the firewall. The wire was poking through the insulation. I moved this wire around a little when I hooked up the constant power wire for the fuel pump to the "Vehicle positive battery" post. I am thinking that may have been the problem causing it to burn out. I am going to try a 20 amp inline fuse to test it out. I may use a echanical automatic resetting type once I am sure the issue has been corrected. I would hate to have the coach go dead driving down a road at 55 late at night. The auto restting type hopefully would let me get to the side of the road safely.
Now, maybe I can get back to getting the EFI fired up.
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Go to AutoZone and get one for GM. I just replaced one of those a few weeks back on Arch's coach at the DuQuoin rally. AZ had it in stock. You will also need a couple of appropriately sized crimp on terminals. The ones in the package were not the correct size. I believe the fusible like was 12 gauge and the insulation was gray.
They are located with the switches and fuses on hanging cards on on the floor rather than behind the counter. They are around $3.00.
A 20 amp fuse as a replacement for the fusible link is not going to hack it. Everything on the engine side of the coach except the high speed fan, starter, and charging the battery runs through that fusible link.
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Here is the fusible link wire from Dorman.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-85620/
The AutoZone website only showed it in 10 foot lengths. I know I just bought a 1 foot one from them in DuQuoin a couple of weeks ago.
Almost any autoparts store should have them
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] No power [message #104710 is a reply to message #104670] |
Sun, 31 October 2010 18:57 |
Smitty52
Messages: 181
Registered: July 2007
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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All is good now. I went to NAPA and got a roll of fusible link and power has been restored. $9.52 for wire and connectors and about the same for gas. The nearest parts store is 50 plus miles away round trip.
Wayne and Lisa,
Bolton Landing, NY,
Patriot Guard Rider,
Standing for those who stood for us.
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| Re: [GMCnet] No power [message #104722 is a reply to message #104710] |
Sun, 31 October 2010 21:38 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Well, if it was a 10 foot roll like AZ offered, After you are done you should cut the remaining 9 feet into one foot pieces. Then put some connector on the pieces and sell them at the next rally for $5.00 to $10.00 each.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] No power [message #104738 is a reply to message #104730] |
Mon, 01 November 2010 00:38 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| WD0AFQ wrote on Sun, 31 October 2010 22:27 |
| Ken Burton wrote on Sun, 31 October 2010 21:38 |
Well, if it was a 10 foot roll like AZ offered, After you are done you should cut the remaining 9 feet into one foot pieces. Then put some connector on the pieces and sell them at the next rally for $5.00 to $10.00 each.
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Great idea Ken. You coming to Quartzsite?
Dan
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I'm thinking about it. I probably will not decide until after Christmas. I just changed the oil in the coach and drained the water for the coach's winter sleep. I have not filled it with antifreeze yet just in case I decide to use it to the Ft. Wayne hamfest. I'd have to flush it out again if I decided to take the coach to Quartzsite.
Will the hams be holding another hamfest at Quartzsite again this year?
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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