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[GMCnet] Front sub frame [message #103925] Sat, 23 October 2010 16:55 Go to next message
larry erd is currently offline  larry erd   United States
Messages: 132
Registered: August 2010
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Engine,trans,and all front suspension, is off the coach for a complete
rebuild, I was
thinking that it might be easier to make a 4 wheel dolly for the sub frame
and remove it, than i can
sand blast the sub frame and have easy access to the engine bay to clean and
paint everything.
Then install the drive line and all the components that i can before rolling
the sub frame back
in. Has anyone done it,or is it a really bad idea? Give it to me....

larry erd
77 kingsley
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Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame [message #103927 is a reply to message #103925] Sat, 23 October 2010 17:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Steven Ferguson is currently offline  Steven Ferguson   United States
Messages: 3447
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Many have done it that way Larry. Including our very own Larry (Weidner,
that is).

On Sat, Oct 23, 2010 at 2:55 PM, larry erd <1ljerd@gmail.com> wrote:

> Engine,trans,and all front suspension, is off the coach for a complete
> rebuild, I was
> thinking that it might be easier to make a 4 wheel dolly for the sub frame
> and remove it, than i can
> sand blast the sub frame and have easy access to the engine bay to clean
> and
> paint everything.
> Then install the drive line and all the components that i can before
> rolling
> the sub frame back
> in. Has anyone done it,or is it a really bad idea? Give it to me....
>
> larry erd
> 77 kingsley
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>



--
Steve Ferguson
Sierra Vista, AZ
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Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame [message #103929 is a reply to message #103925] Sat, 23 October 2010 17:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
carnutbill is currently offline  carnutbill   United States
Messages: 65
Registered: February 2004
Location: Rochester N.Y.
Karma: 0
Member
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=4620&cat=3465


I removed & installed the sub-frame with engine, trans & suspension in the sub frame. The sub-frame balances on the wheels & one person can install it. bill

75pb carnutbill@frontier.com
Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame [message #103932 is a reply to message #103927] Sat, 23 October 2010 18:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jimk is currently offline  jimk   United States
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
That is good, buy make sure you rebuild the A frame and the torsion bar socket.
The boxed frame is surprised us few times when we noticed rusting from
the inside on the cross beam and also frame by the battery tray.
Spend some time inspecting it closly befor you blast it and coating.

On Sat, Oct 23, 2010 at 3:00 PM, Steven Ferguson <botiemad11@gmail.com> wrote:
> Many have done it that way Larry.  Including our very own Larry (Weidner,
> that is).
>
> On Sat, Oct 23, 2010 at 2:55 PM, larry erd <1ljerd@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Engine,trans,and all front suspension, is off the coach  for a complete
>>ame, I was
>> thinking that it might be easier to make a 4 wheel dolly for the sub frame
>> and remove it, than i can
>> sand blast the sub frame and have easy access to the engine bay to clean
>> and
>> paint everything.
>> Then install the drive line and all the components that i can before
>> rolling
>> the sub frame back
>> in. Has anyone done it,or is it a really bad idea? Give it to me....
>>
>> larry erd
>> 77 kingsley
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> List Information and Subscription Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Steve Ferguson
> Sierra Vista, AZ
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>



--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame [message #103950 is a reply to message #103925] Sat, 23 October 2010 20:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
Senior Member
Larry,

Like this?

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=36474

Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie

-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of larry erd
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 4:56 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Front sub frame

Engine,trans,and all front suspension, is off the coach for a complete
rebuild, I was
thinking that it might be easier to make a 4 wheel dolly for the sub frame
and remove it, than i can
sand blast the sub frame and have easy access to the engine bay to clean and
paint everything.
Then install the drive line and all the components that i can before rolling
the sub frame back
in. Has anyone done it,or is it a really bad idea? Give it to me....

larry erd
77 kingsley
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
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_______________________________________________
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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame [message #103952 is a reply to message #103950] Sat, 23 October 2010 21:16 Go to previous messageGo to next message
larry erd is currently offline  larry erd   United States
Messages: 132
Registered: August 2010
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Rob thats what I was thinking, thanks, Larry E.

On Sat, Oct 23, 2010 at 9:46 PM, Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au>wrote:

> Larry,
>
> Like this?
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=36474
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> USAussie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
> [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of larry erd
> Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 4:56 PM
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Subject: [GMCnet] Front sub frame
>
> Engine,trans,and all front suspension, is off the coach for a complete
> rebuild, I was
> thinking that it might be easier to make a 4 wheel dolly for the sub frame
> and remove it, than i can
> sand blast the sub frame and have easy access to the engine bay to clean
> and
> paint everything.
> Then install the drive line and all the components that i can before
> rolling
> the sub frame back
> in. Has anyone done it,or is it a really bad idea? Give it to me....
>
> larry erd
> 77 kingsley
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame [message #103953 is a reply to message #103925] Sat, 23 October 2010 21:22 Go to previous messageGo to next message
g.winger is currently offline  g.winger   United States
Messages: 792
Registered: February 2008
Location: Warrenton,Missouri
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Larry, I rolled the whole clip from the MH garage and into my shop holding the front with a board and 3 women pushing. Not the best way to go. After I removed everything I decided to NOT spend hours stripping rust and paint. To loud, too dirty, to long. The frame didn't want to ride on my trailer right side up so we flipped it over. When it was vertical the rust from the INSIDE made 2 little piles about 3"dia. and 1/2" deep. Thats when I decided that after the sand blaster it would be galvanized. 300 bucks for the gal. and 175 for the blast. When I got it back I placced it on stands and assembled the suspension. Purchased a cheap trailer jack and bolted it to the front. One of the best things I did next to the extra heavy duty crank powered rollover engine stand. Makes rolling in the shop easy and you can change the angle real easy. JWID,,,,,PL
Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame [message #103976 is a reply to message #103925] Sun, 24 October 2010 09:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
robert caudle is currently offline  robert caudle   United States
Messages: 25
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 0
Junior Member
did this about four years ago using three floor jacks to pull out. steering
by pulling on whichever jack handle was closest to the direction I needed to
go.
----- Original Message -----
From: "larry erd" <1ljerd@gmail.com>
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 4:55 PM
Subject: [GMCnet] Front sub frame


> Engine,trans,and all front suspension, is off the coach for a complete
> rebuild, I was
> thinking that it might be easier to make a 4 wheel dolly for the sub frame
> and remove it, than i can
> sand blast the sub frame and have easy access to the engine bay to clean
> and
> paint everything.
> Then install the drive line and all the components that i can before
> rolling
> the sub frame back
> in. Has anyone done it,or is it a really bad idea? Give it to me....
>
> larry erd
> 77 kingsley
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame [message #103983 is a reply to message #103953] Sun, 24 October 2010 09:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
Senior Member
G'day,

There used to be a US wide company that called itself "Americas Metal
Laundry" in their sales pitch. They did chemical stripping of frames,
bodies, etc. IIRC they claimed when you got back whatever they stripped it
had a rust protective coating that was ready to paint. I think if I were
going to do a frame that's the process I would use. The reason being it got
into all the nooks and crannies that sand blasting couldn't.

I did a Google search for "Americas Metal Laundry" but that didn't come up.
I did get some local companies that offered the same surface.

Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie

-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Paul Leavitt
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 9:22 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame



Larry, I rolled the whole clip from the MH garage and into my shop holding
the front with a board and 3 women pushing. Not the best way to go. After I
removed everything I decided to NOT spend hours stripping rust and paint. To
loud, too dirty, to long. The frame didn't want to ride on my trailer right
side up so we flipped it over. When it was vertical the rust from the INSIDE
made 2 little piles about 3"dia. and 1/2" deep. Thats when I decided that
after the sand blaster it would be galvanized. 300 bucks for the gal. and
175 for the blast. When I got it back I placced it on stands and assembled
the suspension. Purchased a cheap trailer jack and bolted it to the front.
One of the best things I did next to the extra heavy duty crank powered
rollover engine stand. Makes rolling in the shop easy and you can change the
angle real easy. JWID,,,,,PL
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist



Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame [message #103991 is a reply to message #103953] Sun, 24 October 2010 10:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mike miller   United States
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
Senior Member
g.winger wrote on Sat, 23 October 2010 19:22

... Thats when I decided that after the sand blaster it would be galvanized. 300 bucks for the gal. and 175 for the blast. ...


Galvanize the frame. Good idea for my "2040 Project."

"2040 Project" Rebuilding a GMC with the idea that I will STILL be driving it in the year 2040.


Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo' http://m000035.blogspot.com
Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame [message #104095 is a reply to message #103991] Mon, 25 October 2010 07:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Larry C   United States
Messages: 1168
Registered: July 2004
Location: NE Illinois by the Illino...
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Thats when I decided that after the sand blaster it would be galvanized. 300 bucks for the gal. and 175 for the blast.
______________________________________________________________

Do not overlook the virtues of POR15....
This is tough stuff and once it cures on metal or rusty metal, if applied properly, the rust STOPS. I have not ever seen this product chip.

I have used POR15 on several projects in the past and the treated areas have not rusted ever.

It is applied by brush, roller or spray and straight out of the can is of a watery consistancy and gets into all the nooks and crannys.

You don't need to remove all the rust, only the flaky stuff and the POR15 seals to what is left.

A cautionary note:
You get this on your hands, you will wear it for a week until it wears off. Wear Gloves. Any clothing that gets product on it will instantly become work clothes or rags for you cannot get it out. If you get it on concrete, you have a permanent mark. It is equally attached to metal, comes in Gloss or Semi or Flat.


DIS...
I am merely a customer and am not employed by the products company. I receive no gratuities for suggesting use of said product.


Gatsbys' CRUISER 08-18-04
74 GLACIER X, 260/455-APC-4 Bagg'r
Remflex Manifold gaskets
CampGrounds needed, Add yours to "PLACES" /> http://www.gmceast.com/travel
_
Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame [message #104096 is a reply to message #104095] Mon, 25 October 2010 07:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Dennis S is currently offline  Dennis S   United States
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
Senior Member

If the sub frame is pulled for refurbishing -- the rusted sub frames I have seen rusted from the inside out. So, slosh or flow some treatment through the frame assembly. Then drill a hole to drain the front frame extensions -- photos by BobD...aka Surbo.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=19287&cat=4644



Dennis Sexton
73 GMC
Germantown, TN
USA



-----Original Message-----
From: Larry <slawrence111@yahoo.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Mon, Oct 25, 2010 7:28 am
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame



Thats when I decided that after the sand blaster it would be galvanized. 300
ucks for the gal. and 175 for the blast.
_____________________________________________________________
Do not overlook the virtues of POR15....
his is tough stuff and once it cures on metal or rusty metal, if applied
roperly, the rust STOPS. I have not ever seen this product chip.
I have used POR15 on several projects in the past and the treated areas have not
usted ever.
It is applied by brush, roller or spray and straight out of the can is of a
atery consistancy and gets into all the nooks and crannys.
You don't need to remove all the rust, only the flaky stuff and the POR15 seals
o what is left.
A cautionary note:
ou get this on your hands, you will wear it for a week until it wears off.
ear Gloves. Any clothing that gets product on it will instantly become work
lothes or rags for you cannot get it out. If you get it on concrete, you have
permanent mark. It is equally attached to metal, comes in Gloss or Semi or
lat.

IS...
am merely a customer and am not employed by the products company. I receive
o gratuities for suggesting use of said product.
--
atsbys' CRUISER :d
4 GLACIER X, 260
55/APC/4 bagg'r(ver3)
emflex Manifold gaskets
______________________________________________
urchased 08-18-04
_


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MCnet mailing list
ist Information and Subscription Options:
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame [message #104110 is a reply to message #104095] Mon, 25 October 2010 09:53 Go to previous messageGo to next message
larry erd is currently offline  larry erd   United States
Messages: 132
Registered: August 2010
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Thanks, I've been using POR15 products for 12 years now, I'm a believer,also
PM Industries
has a silver rust inhibitor that is great ( the guy used to be with POR ).
larry e.



On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 8:28 AM, Larry <slawrence111@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>
> Thats when I decided that after the sand blaster it would be galvanized.
> 300 bucks for the gal. and 175 for the blast.
> ______________________________________________________________
>
> Do not overlook the virtues of POR15....
> This is tough stuff and once it cures on metal or rusty metal, if applied
> properly, the rust STOPS. I have not ever seen this product chip.
>
> I have used POR15 on several projects in the past and the treated areas
> have not rusted ever.
>
> It is applied by brush, roller or spray and straight out of the can is of a
> watery consistancy and gets into all the nooks and crannys.
>
> You don't need to remove all the rust, only the flaky stuff and the POR15
> seals to what is left.
>
> A cautionary note:
> You get this on your hands, you will wear it for a week until it wears off.
> Wear Gloves. Any clothing that gets product on it will instantly become
> work clothes or rags for you cannot get it out. If you get it on concrete,
> you have a permanent mark. It is equally attached to metal, comes in Gloss
> or Semi or Flat.
>
>
> DIS...
> I am merely a customer and am not employed by the products company. I
> receive no gratuities for suggesting use of said product.
>
> --
> Gatsbys' CRUISER :d
> 74 GLACIER X, 260
> 455/APC/4 bagg'r(ver3)
> Remflex Manifold gaskets
> _______________________________________________
> Purchased 08-18-04
>
> _
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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Re: [GMCnet] Front sub frame [message #104137 is a reply to message #104110] Mon, 25 October 2010 12:29 Go to previous message
gmcrv1 is currently offline  gmcrv1   United States
Messages: 839
Registered: August 2007
Location: Memphis
Karma: -1
Senior Member
From something I posted in the past...

I glass beaded the back of one of the bumpers. It did a pretty good job,
but the pits are deep. I may coat the backs with Mastercoat silver as the
base and then spray the Porter Paint silver over that. Mastercoat is very
similar to POR 15 - many say it is much better including Pat Mastrincola.
(Founder of PM Industies) he developed both products but left POR 15 when
they refused to add more filler to the paint. And I'm sure there were other
issues...

Tom Eckert N2VWN
73 Glacier
Oakland, TN 38060



On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 9:53 AM, larry erd <1ljerd@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks, I've been using POR15 products for 12 years now, I'm a
> believer,also
> PM Industries
> has a silver rust inhibitor that is great ( the guy used to be with POR ).
> larry e.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 8:28 AM, Larry <slawrence111@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Thats when I decided that after the sand blaster it would be galvanized.
> > 300 bucks for the gal. and 175 for the blast.
> > ______________________________________________________________
> >
> > Do not overlook the virtues of POR15....
> > This is tough stuff and once it cures on metal or rusty metal, if applied
> > properly, the rust STOPS. I have not ever seen this product chip.
> >
> > I have used POR15 on several projects in the past and the treated areas
> > have not rusted ever.
> >
> > It is applied by brush, roller or spray and straight out of the can is of
> a
> > watery consistancy and gets into all the nooks and crannys.
> >
> > You don't need to remove all the rust, only the flaky stuff and the POR15
> > seals to what is left.
> >
> > A cautionary note:
> > You get this on your hands, you will wear it for a week until it wears
> off.
> > Wear Gloves. Any clothing that gets product on it will instantly become
> > work clothes or rags for you cannot get it out. If you get it on
> concrete,
> > you have a permanent mark. It is equally attached to metal, comes in
> Gloss
> > or Semi or Flat.
> >
> >
> > DIS...
> > I am merely a customer and am not employed by the products company. I
> > receive no gratuities for suggesting use of said product.
> >
> > --
> > Gatsbys' CRUISER :d
> > 74 GLACIER X, 260
> > 455/APC/4 bagg'r(ver3)
> > Remflex Manifold gaskets
> > _______________________________________________
> > Purchased 08-18-04
> >
> > _
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > List Information and Subscription Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
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>
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