| Warm-up time [message #102484] |
Sun, 10 October 2010 22:38  |
bernie
Messages: 46
Registered: February 2008
Location: Montreal
Karma: 0
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I've been asking myself: How long do you guys let your engine warm-up from cold start before you hit the road? I have to wait
3-4 minutes before the engine feels O.K to take some load. Ambient temperature around 70 F.
Bernard
GMC Transmode 1977
Montreal,Canada
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| Re: Warm-up time [message #102487 is a reply to message #102484] |
Sun, 10 October 2010 22:48  |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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That is about the same as I do. Three to five minutes.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Warm-up time [message #102505 is a reply to message #102484] |
Mon, 11 October 2010 02:26 |
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I usually wait until my temp gauge reads about 180-190 which is just about half way between C and the 1/4 mark on the stock temp gauge...
73 Canyon Lands, (a.k.a. The Yellow Submarine) West Los Angeles CA
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| Re: [GMCnet] Warm-up time [message #102513 is a reply to message #102506] |
Mon, 11 October 2010 07:02 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Me neither. While I don't load the engine nor rev it up until the
temperature gauge starts to move, I figure it's running and being lubricated
by the 10 of the 10W40, so I might as well start rolling.
Ken H.
On Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 3:50 AM, Mr.erf ERFisher <mr.erfisher@gmail.com>wrote:
> I don't wait at all.
>
> by the time I idle out of the carport,
> idle down the street , warming up the CM brake pads,
> I am ready to hit the road
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: Warm-up time [message #102515 is a reply to message #102484] |
Mon, 11 October 2010 07:16 |
bobby5832708
Messages: 237
Registered: November 2006
Location: Winter Springs FL
Karma: 3
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Bernard,
At 70 degrees I let my GMC warm up about 3-4 seconds before driving gently through the neighborhood where the speed limit is 25. I don't like to "stand on it" or rev the engine up past about 1500 or so until it's at normal temp and driving slowly with a light load on it seems to make it warm up faster than just sitting there not moving. In cold temps, like around 35 to 40 (it sometimes gets that cold in Florida in the winter) I might wait 30 seconds to a minute before driving.
Since my last name isn't Rockefeller or Trump I try to get as much value from the gasoline I paid my hard-earned money for. I can't help it that I'm a cheapskate!
Bob Heller
2017 Winnebago 29VE
Winter Springs FL
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| Re: Warm-up time [message #102524 is a reply to message #102484] |
Mon, 11 October 2010 08:28 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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| bernie wrote on Sun, 10 October 2010 23:38 |
I've been asking myself: How long do you guys let your engine warm-up from cold start before you hit the road? I have to wait 3-4 minutes before the engine feels O.K to take some load. Ambient temperature around 70 F.
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Bernard,
The most important part of a cold start is the lube oil circulation. On most of the GM engines (I only had a 455 on test once), it takes about 30 seconds for the oil to make its way to the valve gear. With the exclusion of WOT power - once the engine runs smoothly, anything more is a waste as warm up required.
As far as WOT power, once the lube oil makes about 100*F, Ken is correct that the 10 part of the 10W40 is doing its job. To describe the situation better, I would have to dive into tribology terms and equations that I would need my books to remember.
In the durability farms I have run, the standard warm up was "15-15-100" then WOT power curve. So dyno jocks would start an engine get it to 1500RPM - 15MAP (about 14VAC [inhg]) until the lube oil was 100*F - then it was either WOT power curve or on to test cycle. With a good engine, this could be for 2k hours of test.
Idle time does nothing good for an engine. If it takes 3~4 minutes (really) before your engine will pull the coach on flat ground, your choke calibration needs to be looked at carefully. Cold idle is really hard on an engine and much worse with a flat tappet/carburetor engine (like mine) than a modern engine.
Matt (the refugee from the engine lab)
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Warm-up time [message #102536 is a reply to message #102513] |
Mon, 11 October 2010 09:40 |
dkoug
Messages: 19
Registered: July 2009
Karma: 0
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Ken your absolutely right.
The longer you idle a cold engine and drive train the more wear and
tear. Having lived in the arctic and starting a vehicle at 30 some below.
Idle 1 minute and they drive slowly for a few minute. This worms up the
internals much faster for lubrication verses idling when basically does
not warm up the drive train and the engine very slowly.
So 1 minute and drive conservatively for a few minutes. Protects your
drive train and the environment and your pocket book.
dkoug
On 10/11/2010 6:02 AM, Ken Henderson wrote:
> Me neither. While I don't load the engine nor rev it up until the
> temperature gauge starts to move, I figure it's running and being lubricated
> by the 10 of the 10W40, so I might as well start rolling.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Mon, Oct 11, 2010 at 3:50 AM, Mr.erf ERFisher<mr.erfisher@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> I don't wait at all.
>>
>> by the time I idle out of the carport,
>> idle down the street , warming up the CM brake pads,
>> I am ready to hit the road
>>
>>
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> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
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| Re: [GMCnet] Warm-up time [message #102551 is a reply to message #102544] |
Mon, 11 October 2010 11:20 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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| Tim Conway wrote on Mon, 11 October 2010 11:39 |
On Oct 11, 2010, at 10:40 AM, dkoug wrote:
> So 1 minute and drive conservatively for a few minutes. Protects
> your drive train and the environment and your pocket book.
Slightly off topic, but the same for diesel and/or turbo diesel?
Tim Conway
LI NY 78 PB
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The discussion is largely completely true relative to diesel and turbo-diesel. There are some small considerations for Pre-chamber or DI engines but, those may be individual engine design specific.
One common caution about turbo-diesel is not about cold start, but about hot shut-down. If a turbo-diesel (any turbocharger equipped engine actually) is shut down after being at high load and it is not a jacket water cooled turbo (many still use lube oil to cool the back bearing and plate), lube oil can coke up (cooked black hard stuff) in the oil spaces that need to be clear for proper cooling.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Warm-up time (Off Topic) [message #102581 is a reply to message #102551] |
Mon, 11 October 2010 13:04 |
Tim Conway
Messages: 412
Registered: September 2005
Location: Long Island, New York
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On Oct 11, 2010, at 12:20 PM, Matt Colie wrote:
> Tim Conway wrote on Mon, 11 October 2010 11:39
>> Slightly off topic, but the same for diesel and/or turbo diesel?
>
> The discussion is largely completely true relative to diesel and
> turbo-diesel. There are some small considerations for Pre-chamber
> or DI engines but, those may be individual engine design specific.
>
Thank you very much, Matt. I have a company supplied 2003 F250 King
Ranch with the dreaded 6.0L Turbo Diesel.
> One common caution about turbo-diesel is not about cold start, but
> about hot shut-down. If a turbo-diesel (any turbocharger equipped
> engine actually) is shut down after being at high load and it is
> not a jacket water cooled turbo (many still use lube oil to cool
> the back bearing and plate), lube oil can coke up (cooked black
> hard stuff) in the oil spaces that need to be clear for proper
> cooling.
The pickup is never really driven hard or heavily loaded, unlike the
flatbed and contractor bodied diesel trucks I only occasionally drive
these days.
I do have an '02 New Beetle Turbo S that has had oil pressure issues
for a while now, under 1200 RPM. The pan was dropped a couple of
times to have sludge removed, but didn't help the problem for long.
As it's not too expensive, my ex-nephew-in-law mechanic suggested
replacing the oil pump also when after dropping and cleaning. This
seems to be a common issue with the 1.8L Turbos.
Tim Conway
LI NY 78 PB
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| Re: [GMCnet] Warm-up time [message #102656 is a reply to message #102513] |
Mon, 11 October 2010 22:31 |
Larry C
Messages: 1168
Registered: July 2004
Location: NE Illinois by the Illino...
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I know a lot of folks don't like additives and most call them "Snake Oil".
Back when I bought my 83 AMC EAGLE SX4, ( A Heck of a Fun Car ), I had run into the SLICK 50 circles.
I used it in everything with a piston.
All those cars ran to very high mileages, my 90 Chevrolet Lumina was sold at 250 k miles and still ran like a top.
The biggest known ( proven ) fact was the water temperature dropped about 5 to 10 degrees at inital running after adding the SLICK 50. This helped some cars that were prone to over heat.
It also helped cars/trucks that did not turn over easily in the Winters cold.
Ok, so I know you are saying this is just hear say, but NO, I had this experience as well.
The ad used to say the engine would run with no oil after initially running with Slick 50.
---Short Story
One of the fellas at work asked about the Slick 50, seems he had also seen the commercial. I told him of my observations as did another fella that was using it. He went and bought it and put it in his wifes car. Months went by.
He comes into work one day and said the Slick 50 worked. I asked what he meant.
Seems, his wife was driving home and some miles away the oil light came on and stayed on. She figured she was close enough to home to drive the rest of the way, pulled in the drive and shut down the car. She told him about the light and when it came on.
He checked the oil and it was empty. He figured the motor was toast but filled it with oil and started it with no ill effects.
I have had vehicles that were treated with SLICK50 in storage for 5 years that came out of storage with no problem with the engine.
The additives with zinc may be helpful but I have not seen the same results as I had with the Slick 50 product.
I have a pretty good spiel about RAIN-X too... 
Gatsbys' CRUISER  08-18-04
74 GLACIER X, 260/455-APC-4 Bagg'r
Remflex Manifold gaskets
CampGrounds needed, Add yours to "PLACES" />
http://www.gmceast.com/travel
_
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| Re: Warm-up time [message #102711 is a reply to message #102484] |
Tue, 12 October 2010 16:25 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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At cold idle the splash lube is poor up to the cyl walls etc. Also you want to warm up the engine more quickly than idle provides to cut down on the time where water is condensing on the walls with each power stroke and ending up in the oil. If you notice most computer cars when started with foot off pedal run right up to 1500 on startup. This I assume helps get the oil splashing and slinging around more quickly.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: Warm-up time [message #102737 is a reply to message #102711] |
Tue, 12 October 2010 18:57 |
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jaholland
Messages: 565
Registered: June 2010
Location: Sweet Home Alebamy
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RE: Warm Up Time ~
I usually start the '78 GMC Eleganza II ~
wait til the choke cuts off ~
get out and do a walk-a-round and whump the tires ~
Git Back In It & Go ~
Thats the way I did it in the '73 GMC Canyonlands ~
and the 68 8 cyl Cortez ~
and the 65 6 cyl Cortez ~
I had to start my Dad's '39 Ford Deluxe during WWII
by priming the carb with gas out if a Qt Fruit Jar
and, after it warmed up, Switch It Over To Coal Oil {Kerosene} `
You could tell by the white smoking tailpipe that it was us
~ Joe ~
/_]*[__][] *[__|] ~ * '73 TZE063V101887 "
"
O----------OO--]* ~ '78 TZE168V100234 "
"
" Joe & Lavelle " "
"
'sweet home alebamy'
[Updated on: Tue, 12 October 2010 19:00] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Warm-up time [message #102759 is a reply to message #102484] |
Tue, 12 October 2010 22:20 |
Jim Galbavy
Messages: 1443
Registered: August 2007
Karma: 7
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Bernie, I start up and let it stay on high idle until the airbags pump up all the way on RAISE. The engine is usually turning about 1200 rpms. It usually takes like the others have said about 3-4 minutes for the bags to blow up then I'll tap the throttle and she will go to low idle (about 500 rpms). Then it is time to go slowly out of the subdivision. Has worked for me for the last 6 years.
jim galbavy
'73 X-CL ANNIE
Chesterfield, Va & Lake Mary, FL
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