| Speaking of Alternators [message #97485] |
Fri, 27 August 2010 11:07  |
Oldngray
Messages: 544
Registered: August 2009
Location: Punta Gorda Florida
Karma: 0
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I previously posted about my Gen light being on all of the time, (not bright but glowing).
I have had the belts checked and tightened as well as checking the voltage with a meter. Have installed a Voltmeter and it reads 13.5-14.0.
Having the light glow is troublesome to me while driving, mostly at night when you can see it better.
Have been told not to worry about it however I would really like to determine why.
Our coach has 4 Trojan 105's for the house and I am wondering if the Alternator just cannot keep up with them. It is the original 80 amp, perhaps changing to a 100 amp or bigger would correct this?
Would appreciate ideas.
Thanks
Richard MacDonald
Punta Gorda, Florida
Sold our TZE April 2015
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| Re: Speaking of Alternators [message #97487 is a reply to message #97485] |
Fri, 27 August 2010 11:30  |
Smitty52
Messages: 181
Registered: July 2007
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It can put out the volts but how many amps is it putting out? I have seen alternators putting out 5 amps that still showed good on a volt meter.
Wayne and Lisa,
Bolton Landing, NY,
Patriot Guard Rider,
Standing for those who stood for us.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Speaking of Alternators [message #97493 is a reply to message #97489] |
Fri, 27 August 2010 13:05 |
Oldngray
Messages: 544
Registered: August 2009
Location: Punta Gorda Florida
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I have the APC, my dash lights work just fine, all fuses are good.
The voltage is never above 14.0, mostly 13.5-13.75 on the voltmeter and multi meter.
One thing I failed to mention, at idle the light is perhaps half lit, then as my RPM's increase to cruise (2000) the light does get much dimmer and after a while it may go out completely, when I take my foot off the pedal the light will come back on although dimly.
I will try to check the Alternator Amp output.
Not sure of how to do that even after reading the instructions but I will give it a go.
Richard MacDonald
Punta Gorda, Florida
Sold our TZE April 2015
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| Re: Speaking of Alternators [message #97500 is a reply to message #97485] |
Fri, 27 August 2010 14:35 |
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Just upgrade to a CS 144, with alt sourced from a mens mall, new isolator and wiring set me back less than 100 bux. Now I got 140 amps all day long and 80 or so at idle...
73 Canyon Lands, (a.k.a. The Yellow Submarine) West Los Angeles CA
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| Re: [GMCnet] Speaking of Alternators [message #97506 is a reply to message #97502] |
Fri, 27 August 2010 15:05 |
Oldngray
Messages: 544
Registered: August 2009
Location: Punta Gorda Florida
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using the Right Center post on the Isolator, I have 15.3V at 600RPM. The Gen Light is dimly lit. The House Batteries show 12.6 and the Engine Battery is 13.0. The Battery numbers are with the engine off.
I have not checked the AMPS mostly because I am not sure which is the Bat terminal.
Where is the best place to hookup the + wire for the Voltage Gauge?
Richard MacDonald
Punta Gorda, Florida
Sold our TZE April 2015
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| Re: Speaking of Alternators [message #97510 is a reply to message #97485] |
Fri, 27 August 2010 15:23 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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I do not know where you are sampling the alternator voltage but it should be 13.8 to 14.2 at the ENGINE BATTERY. You can sample the engine battery voltage at the top or bottom isolator post. (I forgot which one it is) If you are sampling it at the alternator or the center post / connection of the isolator, the voltage should be 14.5 to 14.9 volts.
You are obviously below optimum voltage no matter where you are measuring it. It is just a matter of how much below voltage.
If you do not have some very dead batteries loading down the alternator, then you have a bad alternator.
If you end up replacing the alternator you might as well get the 100 amp one. They are very close to the same price. They are around $100 exchange from AutoZone and come with a lifetime warranty.
Also if you are changing it you might as well change to the double pulley. It will still work as single pulley and if you choose in the future you can go to a double belt onthe alternator. AutoZone swapped my pulley for free when I bought the replacement alternator. It only takes a minute to swap the pulley when the alternator is sitting on the counter in the store.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Speaking of Alternators [message #97520 is a reply to message #97510] |
Fri, 27 August 2010 15:49 |
Oldngray
Messages: 544
Registered: August 2009
Location: Punta Gorda Florida
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Engine running @600 RPM, Bottom Post of Isolator 14.7, Center Post
15.3, House Batteries in what used to have the LPG tank 14.1 and the Engine Battery up front 14.4.
When installing a 100 amp or greater Alternator, are there other items that must also be included or is basically just r&r?
Richard MacDonald
Punta Gorda, Florida
Sold our TZE April 2015
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| Re: [GMCnet] Speaking of Alternators [message #97523 is a reply to message #97502] |
Fri, 27 August 2010 16:03 |
Dave Mumert
Messages: 272
Registered: February 2004
Location: Olds, AB, Canada
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Hi All
> this says your battery voltage is higher than the alternator output (which
> should not be). so measure the voltage at the center terminal of the
> isolator, using a voltmeter, and you should see a voltage that is about
14.7
> with the engine running.
Actually it says the battery voltage is higher than the voltage at the
output of the diode trio (the pin connected to the lamp circuit).
A defective diode trio could pull the voltage low and draw some current
through the nichrome wire/lamp circuit.
> this should tell you if the alternator is ok
Well maybe it is OK but I'm not sure.
The voltage at the main output of the alternator should be very close to the
voltage on the alternator pin connected to the lamp circuit. If not the
diode trio is probably bad. If that is all the problem I would repair the
alternator instead of replacing it, a brush /bearing kit is very inexpensive
and the diode trio price is also very reasonable.
Dave
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| Re: [GMCnet] Speaking of Alternators [message #97527 is a reply to message #97520] |
Fri, 27 August 2010 16:36 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
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On Aug 27, 2010, at 2:49 PM, Richard MacDonald wrote:
>
>
> Engine running @600 RPM, Bottom Post of Isolator 14.7, Center Post
> 15.3, House Batteries in what used to have the LPG tank 14.1 and the Engine Battery up front 14.4.
>
> When installing a 100 amp or greater Alternator, are there other items that must also be included or is basically just r&r?
>
> --
> Richard MacDonald
> Punta Gorda, Florida
> 76 Edgemonte TZE 266V102313
> 94 K2500 6.5 Turbo Diesel Silverado
>
>
It will basically just fit. But you might want to check the wire size from the alternator to the center post on your isolator. It should be at least a 10 gauge. You could just add another wire in parallel to the existing and then you know you will have enough wire size to handle the 100 amps.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM
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| Re: [GMCnet] Speaking of Alternators [message #97531 is a reply to message #97528] |
Fri, 27 August 2010 17:21 |
Oldngray
Messages: 544
Registered: August 2009
Location: Punta Gorda Florida
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Gulp!, have to think on the last couple of posts. I am not very good at electronics, can read a diagram but will have to get some help with this diode.
I just checked everything again and at 1400RPM the light pretty much is out. Don't know what that means.
Thanks for your help
Richard MacDonald
Punta Gorda, Florida
Sold our TZE April 2015
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| Re: [GMCnet] Speaking of Alternators [message #97534 is a reply to message #97531] |
Fri, 27 August 2010 17:32 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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cannot blame you for that, it is getting a little techie
the only other fooler in this circuit is this fuse, but you said yours was
ok?
*DIM ALTERNATOR LIGHT - FUSE-*
There is one other condition that can cause the symptom of a dimly lit
idiot lamp. A GMCer replaced his alternator, and still had the dim glow
problem. He checked a diode that is supposed to eliminate this on some
production models. NO luck. He then discovered that his* 10 AMP dash
instrument gauge fuse was blown*. The fuse provides 12 volts to one side of
that lamp and if it is blown it does not have 12 volts there. When the
alternator starts putting out 15 volts there is a differential 15 - 0 and it
gets an indication. Replace the fuse (or check wiring and grounds to make
sure you have 11.5 to 12 volts at the lamp and the glow should cease, except
when the alternator is not putting out 15 volts, which is the way it is
supposed to work. It was reported in GMCMN in March 98 page 5. (John
Dolan)
gene
On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 3:21 PM, Richard MacDonald <rm1936@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Gulp!, have to think on the last couple of posts. I am not very good at
> electronics, can read a diagram but will have to get some help with this
> diode.
>
> I just checked everything again and at 1400RPM the light pretty much is
> out. Don't know what that means.
> Thanks for your help
> --
> Richard MacDonald
> Punta Gorda, Florida
> 76 Edgemonte TZE 266V102313
> 94 K2500 6.5 Turbo Diesel Silverado
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: [GMCnet] Speaking of Alternators [message #97538 is a reply to message #97534] |
Fri, 27 August 2010 17:48 |
Oldngray
Messages: 544
Registered: August 2009
Location: Punta Gorda Florida
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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The Fuse in the Panel behind the Glove Box which says Inst Lights is good.
Is this the fuse in question?
Richard MacDonald
Punta Gorda, Florida
Sold our TZE April 2015
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